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Lume 101 - Part One, The Theory

Rocketeer

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17/6/08
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AS there have been a number of posts asking about luming I thought I'd post a 'Lume 101'
This will be in a couple of parts; this one - The Theory and the following part - The Practical.


The Boring Bit - The Theory

Self-luminous compounds
Self-luminous compounds provide permanent legibility over a long period of time without any prior activation from an external light source.
The energy release of a radioactive isotopes decay is continuously converted into a weak light emission. With tritium for example, traces of a solid, tritiated polymer are coated on zinc sulphide crystals to act as a permanent energy source, only limited by the active life of the element.
The first widely used self-luminous compound used to provide a glow in the dark feature was radium (hence the 'Radiomir' from Panerai). This radioactive isotope was used to excite zinc sulphide crystals to make them glow in the dark.
Once the radioactivity dangers (radium has a half-life of 1600 years) - particularly to the workers applying the compound - were fully realised by the 1950's, new self-luminous compounds using either the radioactive isotope of hydrogen, tritium, or a man-made radioactive element promethium, were developed and totally replaced the use of Radium.
Promethium based lume was known as N-Lume after its developer Nemoto of Japan, but with a half-life of around three years, it's use was as short lived as it's effective life.
Tritium has a half-life of 12 years and this eventually became a major drawback, as it's ability to glow diminished visibly within a few years. Tritium is also used in nuclear fission and so the regulations that came in to control the import, export and storage of radioactive compounds made it's widespread use more and more difficult. Tritium lume is still available from Tritec but under very strict regulations.
This lead to the research that developed the phosphorescent rare earth based compounds, again led by Nemoto.

Phosphorescent compounds
Phosphorescent compounds need activating or 'exciting' by an external energy source for them to glow. The first widely used phosphorescent pigment was Zinc Sulphide in the 1970's. Compared with the current compounds it's not very bright and it only glows for a short time.
Current compounds such as Luminova and SuperLuminova use Alkaline Earth Metal Aluminate compounds often just referred to as Strontium Aluminate, although that's just one of the many variations used.
Depending on the individual product, earth metals can include Strontium, Magnesium, Calcium, and Barium. Silicon and Titanium can also be present. The metal element is typically doped with Europium, the most reactive of the rare earth elements.
These compounds do still have drawbacks. zinc sulphide decays over time in natural light, and the strontium aluminate type products degrade rapidly in the presence of water or moisture. As well as the gradual decay, this also limits the range of binders or mixing medium that can be used. To overcome this, some are available with the individual particles encapsulated in a plastic coating.
A recent development is the use of Crystal Fluoaluminate Compound. These are very stable crystals of oxides and halides of alkaline-earth and aluminum, doped with rare-earth elements. These have the advantage of not being affected by water exposure.

Grain Size
One of the key factors in how well a compound works is the size of the individual particles or grains.
Smaller grains (<10 microns) are much easier to apply and give a smooth paint like finish but are less efficient.
Large grains (75-100 microns) glow like a torch and will hold a charge for up to 36 hrs.
So most manufacturers use varying blends of grain sizes to improve the performance. The larger particles improve the performance, while the smaller particles 'fill the gaps' between them, removing any 'dead space' and creating a smoother surface, so not as susceptible to micro shadowing reducing the effective charged area.

Coming next - The Practical - How to lume a watch.
 
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horologie_unitas

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3/12/06
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if you think about RELUMING....thats not at all boring.

even i dont want to do it myself.....intresting info to read.

thanks for sharing !
 

cybee

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AWESOME ! Can't wait to learn something new.

I bet I can learn to apply lume before I understand the theory. :?
 

guru

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Rocketeer, you will get some work from me
 

smc

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24/9/08
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Can't wait for the continuation :)

FYI SMC-LUME A is 5-10 microns
B is 15-45 microns
C is 15-45 microns


A and C are the same colour, and even though C has a slightly larger grain size, I don't notice a difference in glow intensity after 12 hours. I have not tested longer, but they both are readable in complete darkness at 12 hours.
 

KinCaidk

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13/12/08
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F****** Great!

I mean.. This is what forum's are all about :)

I bow to you.
 

jv91

You're Saying I Can Sell?
12/12/08
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spectacular!! quick question anyone know who does a good lume job? i'm in need of some luming lol
 

dsmdave

Renowned Member
15/1/11
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radium (hence the 'Radiomir' from Panerai).

That was pretty neat. Very interesting article thanks for taking the time to type that up. Looking forward to part 2.
 

Ephry73

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I have a retarded question regarding lume, I wanted to know if anyone has tried white acrylic as binder for lume pigments and if so, what were the results? The Noctilumina binder I have is good, but I find that I need white pigment in the mix to make it more gen like.


Thanks.


E
 

Surfnc

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6/9/12
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Great article! I appreciate the write up! I learned a lot!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

undercoverz

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17/9/15
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Very informative! Totally brushes up my chem knowledge from high school time. Thank you!
 

gfields

Horology Curious
27/9/20
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Has anyone here tried to make tritium lume? Does someone have a step-by-step recipe?

I have the patent on Tritium but that doesn't really tell you how to make it. I could post it, but I don't think this forum allows for PDF uploads.
 
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jackflash

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I wanted to know if anyone has tried white acrylic as binder for lume pigments and if so, what were the results? The Noctilumina binder I have is good, but I find that I need white pigment in the mix to make it more gen like.
White acrylic alone isn’t opaque enough in my experience. When I use it I also add watercolour pigments too.
 
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Ephry73

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White acrylic alone isn’t opaque enough in my experience. When I use it I also add watercolour pigments too.

Makes sense. There was a watch I lumed and I used an egg white like color nail polish to mix. Results were not bad.