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2813 upgrade??

Oakley

The Dogs Bolex
7/6/19
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27°59′17″N 86°55′31″E
Good day!
Does anyone have any experience or knowledge regarding the possibilties and involvment of changing a 2813 movement for something with 28,800 and that is reliable, eg. 2824, 2836, miyota 9015. What is possible? anyone succesfully done anything along these lines?
Thx in advance
 
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Bettyswolloks

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As far as I'm aware the only one that will drop straight in is the 2836, the stem height is different on the other.

Sent from my SM-A405FN using Tapatalk
 

Mav2000

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I spent some time researching this and didn't find any 28800 movement that would be an easy fit. So I dropped the idea.
 

DavidModic

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There is the DG4813 which is slightly thinner, has the same hand sizes as DG2813 (and Miyota 8205), runs at 28800 and has different dial feet position, IIRC. I did install it into a DSSD case, but it worked only a fortnight or so. It is low-cost (bought it from cousins, for like £30), slightly better than DG2813 but not much. Also, it turns out that newer versions are now running at 21600 (see .https://forums.watchuseek.com/f71/dg2813-4790147-post47098239.html#post47098239).

Miyota9015 is a very good movement, but if memory serves the dial feet are not compatible and height is the same as in ETA 2892 (i.e. very thin). The hands fit. Also, be aware that 9015 (I am not sure about 8205) flips date in the opposite direction to ETA and 2813 (which means the regular dwo’s won’t work)

The ETA2836 and ETA2824 are the same ligne size (11 1/2) as 2813, but 2824 is thinner (solvable by putting spacers between dial and case). In addition, the dial feet are in different positions, and hands are different dimensions. So 2836 and 2813 will fit into the same case stem height-wise. But you will need an ETA dial and ETA hands. I would suggest you go for Seagull ST2100 if you want a decent, reasonable quality ETA 2836 clone. It is miles ahead of usual A2836, but not as high quality as Elabore or better ETA. However, you will have difficulty finding gen ETA in more than standard quality, and at 3 or 4 times the price of Seagull (if you are insanely lucky you will only pay twice as much for a bottom rung ETA 2836). If I was you, I would purchase an A2386 rep, and immediately, upon getting it, replace the mechanism with a Seagull. In fact this is what I do almost always these days.

This is all a fairly simple job, it just requires some equipment. If you need a watch smith to do it, you will need to give them the ETA dial and hands.
 

DavidModic

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You certainly know your stuff. Impressive. I will probably just buy something that already has a good movement and save myself a lot of hassle. I have been offered this watch by a member here.... I’d like your expert opinion if possible please. Price is 250€ + shipping
https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...16610-swiss-eta-2836-tc-vx-bracelet-and-clasp
This seems like a steal. The price is very reasonable, the watch in good condition.
I am not an expert enough to point out any obvious discrepancies from the listing. I do know and agree that winding bridges break, so I would not be worried at all, if that bit was in silver while rest of it was in gold - I’ve done this plenty of times myself. It is simplest to just chuck the the winding bridge and replace it whole.

SEL’s look decent. I am not anal about them, though. Plenty of people who are, on this forum. Their opinion might differ from mine.

For that kind of money, I personally would snap it up, put it on a timeographer and then do one of the following: (a) nothing because nothing needs to be done; (b) regulate to get accuracy to +/- 3s per day; (c) strip it apart, clean and service the movement, put it back together and do (b); (d) put in a new Seagull ST2100, do (b), do (c) on the ETA and put the reassembled and regulated movement into my drawer - use it when needed.

As you say, many of us look for ETA or A2836 reps, because they are easy and cheap to repair. They are a solid base. And this watch looks fine. It does not have the fancy stuff newer Rolexes do (no rehaut engraving, no LEC as far as I can see, no ceramic insert), but that is period correct, so if it doesn’t bother you, go for it. It is certainly a lot better than that hulk you used to have :).
 
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Oakley

The Dogs Bolex
7/6/19
3,440
512
113
27°59′17″N 86°55′31″E
This seems like a steal. The price is very reasonable, the watch in good condition.
I am not an expert enough to point out any obvious discrepancies from the listing. I do know and agree that winding bridges break, so I would not be worried at all, if that bit was in silver while rest of it was in gold - I’ve done this plenty of times myself. It is simplest to just chuck the the winding bridge and replace it whole.

SEL’s look decent. I am not anal about them, though. Plenty of people who are, on this forum. Their opinion might differ from mine.

For that kind of money, I personally would snap it up, put it on a timeographer and then do one of the following: (a) nothing because nothing needs to be done; (b) regulate to get accuracy to +/- 3s per day; (c) strip it apart, clean and service the movement, put it back together and do (b); (d) put in a new Seagull ST2100, do (b), do (c) on the ETA and put the reassembled and regulated movement into my drawer - use it when needed.

As you say, many of us look for ETA or A2836 reps, because they are easy and cheap to repair. They are a solid base. And this watch looks fine. It does not have the fancy stuff newer Rolexes do (no rehaut engraving, no LEC as far as I can see, no ceramic insert), but that is period correct, so if it doesn’t bother you, go for it. It is certainly a lot better than that hulk you used to have :).

Thank you very much for your opinion and sharing your knowledge, it is greatly appreciated.
 

Oakley

The Dogs Bolex
7/6/19
3,440
512
113
27°59′17″N 86°55′31″E
This seems like a steal. The price is very reasonable, the watch in good condition.
I am not an expert enough to point out any obvious discrepancies from the listing. I do know and agree that winding bridges break, so I would not be worried at all, if that bit was in silver while rest of it was in gold - I’ve done this plenty of times myself. It is simplest to just chuck the the winding bridge and replace it whole.

SEL’s look decent. I am not anal about them, though. Plenty of people who are, on this forum. Their opinion might differ from mine.

For that kind of money, I personally would snap it up, put it on a timeographer and then do one of the following: (a) nothing because nothing needs to be done; (b) regulate to get accuracy to +/- 3s per day; (c) strip it apart, clean and service the movement, put it back together and do (b); (d) put in a new Seagull ST2100, do (b), do (c) on the ETA and put the reassembled and regulated movement into my drawer - use it when needed.

As you say, many of us look for ETA or A2836 reps, because they are easy and cheap to repair. They are a solid base. And this watch looks fine. It does not have the fancy stuff newer Rolexes do (no rehaut engraving, no LEC as far as I can see, no ceramic insert), but that is period correct, so if it doesn’t bother you, go for it. It is certainly a lot better than that hulk you used to have :).

Is the Seagull ST2100 basically the A2836?
 

Oakley

The Dogs Bolex
7/6/19
3,440
512
113
27°59′17″N 86°55′31″E
This seems like a steal. The price is very reasonable, the watch in good condition.
I am not an expert enough to point out any obvious discrepancies from the listing. I do know and agree that winding bridges break, so I would not be worried at all, if that bit was in silver while rest of it was in gold - I’ve done this plenty of times myself. It is simplest to just chuck the the winding bridge and replace it whole.

SEL’s look decent. I am not anal about them, though. Plenty of people who are, on this forum. Their opinion might differ from mine.

For that kind of money, I personally would snap it up, put it on a timeographer and then do one of the following: (a) nothing because nothing needs to be done; (b) regulate to get accuracy to +/- 3s per day; (c) strip it apart, clean and service the movement, put it back together and do (b); (d) put in a new Seagull ST2100, do (b), do (c) on the ETA and put the reassembled and regulated movement into my drawer - use it when needed.

As you say, many of us look for ETA or A2836 reps, because they are easy and cheap to repair. They are a solid base. And this watch looks fine. It does not have the fancy stuff newer Rolexes do (no rehaut engraving, no LEC as far as I can see, no ceramic insert), but that is period correct, so if it doesn’t bother you, go for it. It is certainly a lot better than that hulk you used to have :).

and why the 2100 and not the 2130? The 2100 has DD function when only date is required, whereas the 2130 is date only. Is it due to the height difference?
 

DavidModic

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Is the Seagull ST2100 basically the A2836?

The 2130 is the copy of 2824, the 2100 is the copy of 2836, yes. The 2824 is often too low and the datewheels clearances can be problematic. Seagull has better quality control compared to many other Chinese makers. See this article for example: https://watchguy.co.uk/comparison-sea-gull-st2130-eta-2824-2-peacock-

Two additional considerations:
a) TY2100 (2386) can be converted to a GMT movement.
b) 2386 has a higher central seconds wheel by default. You can replace that (in 2824 or 2836) by buying Eta part 227 which has six heights (from H1 to H6) but more often than not, there is no need with 2386.
 

DavidModic

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By the way, I would not ever go for “Swiss ETA” rep. This is, more often than not, total BS. Buy A2386 and replace it with Seagull TY2100.

ETA does not sell in bulk to unlicensed makers. Which means that a Chinese TD will either not put a Swiss ETA into their mass produced watches (a dealer lie? gasp!) or will actually put in a swiss ETA, but not a new one. It will be taken from a tissot or a hamilton or similar and “refurbished” which actually (more often than not) means drowned in oil. That leads to gunk accumulating in all the oil floating around, and destroying the movement plus the dial, datewheel and hands in extreme cases.

if you want to be sure you have a SWISS ETA, that is properly serviced, you need to put it in yourself (an exception being the watches from the boutique makers like bklm or tc).
 

Oakley

The Dogs Bolex
7/6/19
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512
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27°59′17″N 86°55′31″E
By the way, I would not ever go for “Swiss ETA” rep. This is, more often than not, total BS. Buy A2386 and replace it with Seagull TY2100.

ETA does not sell in bulk to unlicensed makers. Which means that a Chinese TD will either not put a Swiss ETA into their mass produced watches (a dealer lie? gasp!) or will actually put in a swiss ETA, but not a new one. It will be taken from a tissot or a hamilton or similar and “refurbished” which actually (more often than not) means drowned in oil. That leads to gunk accumulating in all the oil floating around, and destroying the movement plus the dial, datewheel and hands in extreme cases.

if you want to be sure you have a SWISS ETA, that is properly serviced, you need to put it in yourself (an exception being the watches from the boutique makers like bklm or tc).

I notice that cousins sell the TY2100 for around £80 and a Swiss ETA 2836-2LP for £145 so not a great deal in it. Going back to that 11610LN Rep I mentioned. Can you see from the photos if it is a gen ETA?

https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...16610-swiss-eta-2836-tc-vx-bracelet-and-clasp

thx
 

DavidModic

Active Member
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I notice that cousins sell the TY2100 for around £80 and a Swiss ETA 2836-2LP for £145 so not a great deal in it. Going back to that 11610LN Rep I mentioned. Can you see from the photos if it is a gen ETA?

https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...16610-swiss-eta-2836-tc-vx-bracelet-and-clasp
Yes cousins does sell the two for this kind of money. However, ebay does not. Here is a listing for TY2100 for £53 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Atomatic...hash=item23c3bdb49f:m:mK_8_m5AaklYiQaEzHtl5Xw) and here is a listing for standard ETA 2836 for ~£130. (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-...490093?hash=item3fa8b6c5ad:g:CKIAAOSwPWRZQHyH). So, as I said before the price difference is roughly 2-3x more for the bottom rung ETA. Which I do not think is worth it.

About the rep movement. I cannot say for sure. Looks like there is an ETA stamp and the balance jewel / regulator looks to be ETA. The quality of the photos is not high enough to be certain. However, if the mods approved it as Swiss, I would buy with confidence. You still need to see what condition the watch is in and whether you need to regulate, or service and regulate.
 

Oakley

The Dogs Bolex
7/6/19
3,440
512
113
27°59′17″N 86°55′31″E
Yes cousins does sell the two for this kind of money. However, ebay does not. Here is a listing for TY2100 for £53 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Atomatic...hash=item23c3bdb49f:m:mK_8_m5AaklYiQaEzHtl5Xw) and here is a listing for standard ETA 2836 for ~£130. (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-...490093?hash=item3fa8b6c5ad:g:CKIAAOSwPWRZQHyH). So, as I said before the price difference is roughly 2-3x more for the bottom rung ETA. Which I do not think is worth it.

About the rep movement. I cannot say for sure. Looks like there is an ETA stamp and the balance jewel / regulator looks to be ETA. The quality of the photos is not high enough to be certain. However, if the mods approved it as Swiss, I would buy with confidence. You still need to see what condition the watch is in and whether you need to regulate, or service and regulate.

Even when you click on photo to open new link then click again for larger image?

https://postimg.cc/1fG0nhGv

Damn risky this business lol, you really are in the lap of the gods
 

DavidModic

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Even when you click on photo to open new link then click again for larger image?

https://postimg.cc/1fG0nhGv
Damn risky this business lol, you really are in the lap of the gods
I am looking at this on my iPad - I am on a vacation on Croatian Islands. I have clicked (tapped) on the photos. I cannot make the ETA stamp to sufficient detail. There are Chinese makers who stamp “ETA” on their movements, but the stamp quality is poorer.

Like I said, I would not worry anyway. If the mods agree with Swiss credentials, then they are. Also, again, you will need to put it on a Timegrapher in any case. Regardless of whether it is Swiss or Asian. Who knows when this was last serviced. 3-5 years is the expected usual interval.
 

tripdog

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Rx4Time

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Why do we keep discussing a watch that sold almost a month ago?
 

Oakley

The Dogs Bolex
7/6/19
3,440
512
113
27°59′17″N 86°55′31″E
I am looking at this on my iPad - I am on a vacation on Croatian Islands. I have clicked (tapped) on the photos. I cannot make the ETA stamp to sufficient detail. There are Chinese makers who stamp “ETA” on their movements, but the stamp quality is poorer.

Like I said, I would not worry anyway. If the mods agree with Swiss credentials, then they are. Also, again, you will need to put it on a Timegrapher in any case. Regardless of whether it is Swiss or Asian. Who knows when this was last serviced. 3-5 years is the expected usual interval.

OK thanks and enjoy your vacation