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CF Pepsi picture leaks BLRO

VG87

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I wouldn't reject that.. what if next offering is worse?
 

Björn_Ironside

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Ok so before I reject, can I just get your opinions on whether I should reject based on the DW being too high please?

18-C8-D2-C6-A9-AD-433-D-BA01-BFA233-C9-ECA0.jpg

it's a good rep imho
 

muiramas

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7 looks a bit high because the camera is higher than the watch - its not straight on. Just look at the rehaut to see the angle. You would be foolish to reject that.
 
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Cowboy45

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Ok so before I reject, can I just get your opinions on whether I should reject based on the DW being too high please?

18-C8-D2-C6-A9-AD-433-D-BA01-BFA233-C9-ECA0.jpg
That is absolutely fine. I would have no issue accepting that. Guaranteed its not even noticeable on your wrist due to the angle.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

Mancster

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Thanks for all the replies and input, really appreciate it. I had already GL’d it but then had second thoughts and was worried about not being able to adjust it etc
 

mnkoshka

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Just received QC for the Batman… Jesus the insert is rubbish. I can literally see the blue bleeding through the ‘platinum’ coating


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vik2001

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What I didn't like about the pepsi was the bezel is really difficult to turn, not smooth at all. Any way to improve this?
 

Jayalvin777

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What I didn't like about the pepsi was the bezel is really difficult to turn, not smooth at all. Any way to improve this?

I don't know to what you're comparing but a gmt bezel feel and action is different to the sub. Rolex GMT bezel action is precise, solid and secure.
 

KJ2020

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There's no clicking action like my yachtmaster

There isn't any on a GMT. The bezel has only 24 stops instead of 120. Take a look at these pics to see the parts of a GMT bezel. When you move a GMT bezel, there is more of detent feel and a muffled light thud.

ZVvlSb.jpg


ZVvTEF.jpg


ZVvQPi.jpg
 
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KJ2020

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What I didn't like about the pepsi was the bezel is really difficult to turn, not smooth at all. Any way to improve this?

If yours is difficult to turn there may be something caught underneath it like a piece of plastic wrap. Or some other issue like a bent or broken pin. Sometimes there is excess material on the oval pin bases that can bind movement within the grooves on the underside. I've had to sand those down a little to free them up.

wmtG4.jpg
 

bertieng

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BTW KJ2020 Am I correct that it doesn't matter what the orientation is when I press the crystal retaining ring back onto the case? The correct bezel insert positioning is determined by the final attachment of the insert onto the bezel, right?
 
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KJ2020

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Just received QC for the Batman… Jesus the insert is rubbish. I can literally see the blue bleeding through the ‘platinum’ coating


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bro I've seen that effect in pics before, not just QCs but In some of my own. I don't think it's bleeding of blue through the platinum but rather the platinum reflecting the blue from the surrounding insert.

You can see some blue tints in the platinum on this CF QC pic from another thread. But I really doubt it would be seen by eye IRL.

j3FZlv.jpg
 

KJ2020

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BTW KJ2020 Am I correct that it doesn't matter what the orientation is when I press the crystal retaining ring back onto the case? The correct bezel insert positioning is determined by the final attachment of the insert onto the bezel, right?

That is true bro. Also, when pressing a GMT bezel back onto the retaining ring, it's my preference to first seat the 3 pin click ring into the retaining ring scallops and flush to the case. That way you can see what you are doing as you fit the pins into their holes. If you attach the click ring to the bezel first, you can't see the alignment of the oval bases into the scallops as you press the bezel home.
 
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bertieng

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That is true bro. Also, when pressing a GMT bezel back onto the retaining ring, it's my preference to first seat the 3 pin click ring into the retaining ring scallops and flush to the case. That way you can see what you are doing as you fit the pins into their holes. If you attach the click ring to the bezel first, you can't see the alignment of the oval bases into the scallops as you press the bezel home.

Thanks for the info.
In the case of CF inserts I think it might not be a big problem since it is taped onto the bezel instead of press fitting. The insert can be lastly stick onto the bezel, having the full bezel assembly being installed onto the watch already, with the perfect orientation of the triangle pointing straight at 12, right?
 

KJ2020

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Thanks for the info.
In the case of CF inserts I think it might not be a big problem since it is taped onto the bezel instead of press fitting. The insert can be lastly stick onto the bezel, having the full bezel assembly being installed onto the watch already, with the perfect orientation of the triangle pointing straight at 12, right?

Exactly. If you didn't see my previous post about doing this, here is a re-post.

They used the standard double-sided tape ring, and a new one should be installed for replacement. They are ultra strong and refitting an insert with one can be mildly challenging because the insert can stick before you want it to, and be misaligned.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174282841898

Note that these tape rings don't always fit the space in a bezel well perfectly. They can be cut into halves or thirds or quarters as necessary to be equally distributed around the well. Coverage does not need to be continuous. Care should be taken not to let the outer edge of the tape ring ride up on the wall of the bezel well. Some folks may prefer to attach them to the insert first, I find it easier to control their placement by attaching them to the bezel well first. The tape rings should never be touched with fingers, the adhesive becomes compromised easily. I use two pairs of tweezers. (Edward Tweezer Hands, lol).

To ensure the insert is aligned perfectly on reinsertion, I put a small thin obstruction across the bottom half of the bezel well. A strip of a dial protector works well for this. You can also use pegwood or a toothpick but be careful not to let it roll out. Then gently set the top indicator (24 in this case) to 12 o'clock. Then you can take your time evaluating the position, get a second opinion from someone, take a pic, etc. so you are certain it's right. If it's not, the insert will lift out easily from the bottom.

jzhsvs.jpg


jzhvzY.jpg


Using this technique will keep the insert from falling into the well misaligned, which means starting completely over with another removal, re-taping, and reinsertion. Not fun trust me, haha.

One other very important point about doing this. The rep factory tape may be thicker than the 3M. So I always test fit a 5mm or so arc of the tape into the well and place the insert. I use the obstruction technique for this too, or you can put a piece of scotch tape on the backside of the insert to facilitate pulling it back out.

If one layer of the 3M tape is insufficient, I add a second layer and reassess. I've used as many three layers on some installs. More than that and I switch to a different tape, use a spacer, or an epoxy glue bed, etc.
 

Replisimio

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Good instructions indeed and exactly what I do. I always align the triangle first and gents lower in the insert and then use a crystal press to apply even pressure mainly because I glued the insert back in rather than tape as it makes it sit too high in the bezel on this CF.