I want to build the Brando GMT

[adasue]

I love the Marlon Brando GMT. I love that it is roughed up, and has no bezel. So I need to find a good replica of an early GMT so I can recreate it. Do you think i will find any cost savings by asking a dealer to source one for me without the bezel or metal band? Does anyone have a dealer in mind that might be good for this type of acquisition? I am also able to build if you think sourcing parts is best.
Thanks,

 

[KJ2020]

No TD will sell you a watch without a bezel and most likely not without a bracelet. No factory makes a dial like that so it would have to be sourced separately. There are some pre-made "vintage" 1675 watches offered by Puretime and non-TD TSWATCHES.

You should look at this thread for many suggestions and pointers. A Milk case is probably your best bet.

https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/vintage-watches/8504111-project-rwi-raffle-win-a-1675-build

 

[p0pperini]

Thanks for the thread promotion Kj!

So adasue, as Kj says, there's no point trying to buy the watch without the bezel/bracelet. You could either (most expensive option) build one from individual parts, or go the rather pricey "pre-vintaged" route. Or you could go the budget route - which would be to buy a BP/JKF (aka "Cartel") donor watch and then mod it. The base watch can be sourced for $100-150 (see Marvellous Replica or Mary Watch for good deals on Cartel watches).

NCRich has done a very useful tutorial on the subject.

There are plenty of suitable vintage waffle pattern rubber straps available on eBay.

 

[adasue]

I have sourced a bunch of parts. I purchased a dial that was supposedly a refinished original Rolex dial. I did buy a movement and case. The case seems too big and the movement doesn't' fit the dial correctly. The date window is not centered on the date. So I was basically looking to find a replica and combine the best of both. I suspect the issue is that the movement and case are for GMT Master II, which I believe is larger. I'm just frustrated at finding the correct parts to build and thought I would get a complete assembly and work backwards. I guess I could find a replica and then swap my dial if it fits.

 

[adasue]

I also need some help with knowledge on models , features and identifying them.
My questions
All Master II can be identified by the fact that markers are raised and have a silver outline?
The first GMT model was the 6542 and it can be identified because it says “swiss” at the bottom of the dial? It also does not have a crown protector?
The 16750 was the next generation of the GMT and it can be identified by the “Swiss T<25” at the bottom of the dial.? It also has a larger pointer on the GMT hand? Is it also a larger dial than the 6542?

Differences between movement 2813 and 2836? What is done in the decorated 2836 movement?
Thanks

 

[alligoat]

Brando's GMT was a model 1675 which he got in the 70s and wore when he was making Apocalypse Now. The 16750 came out around 1978 or so with the 3075 movement and is a later watch. GMT Master IIs came out after that in the 80s.
As has been mentioned, you could buy a cartel 1675 from a TD like Marvellous and see if removing the bezel and insert would leave you with a a crystal retention ring- giving you the Brando look.
A 2836 with the GMT hand might be a little more reliable than a DG3804, butI I've had good luck with my 3804 movement.

This Pan Am 1675 has gen bezel construction- it's a modified 1655 with a Clark's bezel assembly, T-116 and a Ingod44 white Pan Am dial.
8-10 years ago people were taking the cartel 1655 Explorers and making 1675s out of them- it required some case shaping and a bezel assembly from Clark's, but you ended up with a nice 1675.

 

[adasue]

Is "Cartel" a manufacturer name or a model?

 

[cjt202020]

How’s that?! Bezel removed from my milk case build as per thread pointed out by the guys above. I’m a novice and all the info and parts are really well described here. I think this would be your best bet!

 

[alligoat]

Cartel is the group of reps made in China which are typically inexpensive- made by factories like BP and JKF. Sometimes they have gen-like construction and sometimes they don't- they're like a moving target- the rep market is constantly changing. It's always nice when you get a cartel rep and are able to make a few mods to it and end up with a nice rep that you only spent $300-500 on. This is a 5513 cartel rep with the stubby cgs- I filed down the insides and outsides of the cgs and lowered the tube seat, installed a 7020 tube and 702 crown and have less than $250 in it. The DG2813 has been going strong for 6-7 years now- it's always nice when you get a good DG movement! And the rep is WR to boot!

 

[alligoat]

[IMG=https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/921/RWN4Da.jpg][/IMG]

here's the cartel 5513

 

[adasue]

How’s that?! Bezel removed from my milk case build as per thread pointed out by the guys above. I’m a novice and all the info and parts are really well described here. I think this would be your best bet!

WOW!!!! That is exactly what I am going for. I'll follow your build. Unless it is cheaper to find a complete one and dissect it. What complete watches use the milk case?

 

[cjt202020]

I’m pretty sure you can’t buy a watch ‘off the shelf’ that uses a Milk case. It’s poperinis build thread and it’s a fun read

 

[adasue]

I clearly have some fun homework to do. I will also add, at the risk of sounding dorky, I'm very excited finding this forum. I have been going at this watch moding/making stuff on my own. It's pretty cool to find others doing similar projects. Thanks!

 

[adasue]

So is milk an individual that just machines cases to be sold individually?

 

[Hor-Fan]

So is milk an individual that just machines cases to be sold individually?

Yes

 

[adasue]

My other option is to start with this from INTIME. Any down sides? Will it likely look correct when I remove the bezel?

 

[adasue]

Regarding the parts I have, The movement is a DG3804 and the dial is a refinished dial that is the correct 27.5mm. Why does the date window not line up with the date on the 3804? It appears the 3804 date location is at to large a radius (i.e. there is a space to the left of the date in the window)

 

[KJ2020]

Regarding the parts I have, The movement is a DG3804 and the dial is a refinished dial that is the correct 27.5mm. Why does the date window not line up with the date on the 3804? It appears the 3804 date location is at to large a radius (i.e. there is a space to the left of the date in the window)

The DG/ETA movement datewheel is not in same position relative to the center post as most Rolex datewheels are. To use a Rolex or gen-spec dial on a DG/ETA movement, one must use a datewheel overlay (DWO) glued onto the datewheel to move the numerals 1mm left. Some rep dials are made with the date window in both positions, you just have to be aware of what you are buying.

Take a look at this thread if you want to learn more about DWO's.

https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...and-dirty-datewheel-overlay-adjustment-2836-2

 

[alligoat]

My other option is to start with this from INTIME. Any down sides? Will it likely look correct when I remove the bezel?

Even though Intime refers to that watch as a 16750, I believe it's a 1675 rep. But both watches were very close- the only difference being the movements- the 1675 had a 1575 gmt and the 16750 had a 3075 gmt movement. The rivet bracelet is a 1675 feature and by the time the 16750 came around, I believe the rivet bracelet was discontinued.
I'd say it's worth a try removing the bezel and insert. If it's non gen construction, you can always order a 1675 bezel assembly from Clark's and use the crystal retention ring from that.

 

[adasue]

Thanks. Sounds like I should just go forward with the INTIME with the 2836 movement and go from there. Regarding the cream colored markers. Were watches sold that way or is that just a modern production attempt at making it look patina?