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Daytona Discussion 9

thewelshone

You're Saying I Can Sell?
12/1/20
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Hey everyone - nice to meet you.

So I'm going to ask that forbidden question "Which one should I pick!?"

This was posted in the Flame Free Zone for new members however it was suggested to post it here for more responses. Be kind, its Friday!

rolex-daytona-black-bezel-0.jpg


I know it's ultimately my decision. I've now spent countless hours researching the forum, how replicas work, the pros and the cons, expected delivery times, potential faults and so forth.

My two options:

A: Daytona 116500 Noob 1:1 Best Edition 904L SS Case and Bracelet Black Dial SA4130 V3 ($690)

VS

B: Daytona 116500 ARF 1:1 Best Edition 904L SS Case and Bracelet Black Dial A4130 Super Clone V2 ($490)


I've gone through what I believe are the pros & cons of each and my understanding is that option A has a higher price tag because it has fully functional however with this comes more risk of things going wrong (I'm guessing especially in that travel to the UK too!). Likewise with option A, the rings can sometimes be larger on the black Bezel which I'm looking at getting whilst on Option B, it has an overall better-looking finish and is obviously cheaper.

At this point in time, with this being my first replica, I'm very much looking to get a watch for aesthetic reasons - not to brag to random people, but I love Daytona's and can't afford the real deal. This leads me to think that although I'm very much someone who would pay the $690 because it seems like the watch will be better, for the reasons I'm currently looking, perhaps the ARF model would be best.

I appreciate that the current reason I'm looking may change when I'm 2 years in with the watch and would value your own opinions if you would be so kind!



Also..

Two more Qs:
  • Daytona - do you ever use the chronograph?
  • Is it a better idea to source from a local TD dealer, as opposed to one based in China (e.g. Puretime and co) - for risk of damage in delivering the product?
Thanks for taking some time out to help :D
Dan
 

p0pperini

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If the watch is being bought mainly for its looks, and not with a view to Frankening later on, then it's simple - get the ARF.

If you don't need the chrono to function 100% correctly - get the ARF (hell, I have a watchsmith modded and serviced Noob 4130 that he says I could use safely as a chrono - and I still don't use it!).

Get the watch from any TD you fancy. There's very minimal risk of a watch being damaged in transit from China - no more than there is with it coming through the UK postal system. These dealers have been shipping watches worldwide for years - they know what they're doing!
 
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gianttg

Renowned Member
11/4/15
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go for noob
thinner case
better pusher
cost more



ARF
Thicker case
Long pusher
Better bracelet and clap
Usually better sel but the latest batch is the same

I go for Noob
 

muiramas

Erect Aristocrat
18/1/17
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No right answer.

Personally I find the even the latest Noobs feel a bit ‘reppy’ compared with ARF. I just find the fit and finish on ARF is a bit better.

No advantage in getting one from the UK - its still been sent from China, and your TD will have a access to larger selection to pick you a great one.
 

freediver

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All of the above are right, you can't go wrong with either, just choose the flaws you can stand
 

FLYER9

Known Member
2/2/16
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Personally, I have a Noob and an ARF 116500LN and prefer the look of the ARF by a mile.

Granted, the rotor on the ARF was slightly noisy so I’ve had to oil it but I never intend to use the chrono so for me I would suggest the ARF Daytona.
 

thewelshone

You're Saying I Can Sell?
12/1/20
29
8
0
Personally, I have a Noob and an ARF 116500LN and prefer the look of the ARF by a mile.

Granted, the rotor on the ARF was slightly noisy so I’ve had to oil it but I never intend to use the chrono so for me I would suggest the ARF Daytona.

Yeh I plan to take it to a Watchsmith to clean / oil it all anyway so I'm expecting this.

With regards to the chunkiness of this, was it clear and obvious for you?
I do have small wrists however can't imagine there's a huge difference in chunkiness.

Thanks for all your points so far guys - it really does help!
 

garfunkle

You're Saying I Can Sell?
30/12/19
46
16
8
I'm new and I just recently acquired both. Here's why. The Noob dial was BAD...5/10. Much worse in real life than the pictures. The print and font is not crisp and my particular dial was very off centered. This wasn't too noticeable in WC pictures. The case and bracelet are as good as the ARF IMO. The bezel 8/10. The Rolex Crown at 12 is not great and east tell. From afar it looks 9/10 as a whole watch nd nobody would question authenticity.

The ARF has a very good, crisp dial. I can barely tell it from my Gens. 9/10. It's not perfect but you'd have to really interrogate it to see anything. The Bezel is is 9/10 - pretty good. the bracelets were indistinguishable between the 2 and both were very good and shockingly 1:1 to my gens. This watch's failure for me is the movement. The sundials don't work and I just can't live with that. Others have varying opinions on that and if you can live with that then just get the ARF and call it a day.

My plan is to franken the ARF dial and bezel on the Noob and give away the remaining Franken watch to a friend. Maybe try to sell it for 300?
 
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Nikz19

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Yeh I plan to take it to a Watchsmith to clean / oil it all anyway so I'm expecting this.

With regards to the chunkiness of this, was it clear and obvious for you?
I do have small wrists however can't imagine there's a huge difference in chunkiness.

Thanks for all your points so far guys - it really does help!

I have a skinny wrist like yours, and I bought both noob and ARF. Well, the latter is THICK. You’ll notice that on wrist. With the same bracelet sizing on both, the noob fits great while arf blocks my blood stream.
Ended up like many other fellas here, combining them. Put my dial and bezel on my noob. Totally satisfied with it to far, the ARF finishing and crispiness is really something else.

Check this out, that’s what I’m talking about. Noob V3:
75f3199e1e48871cbd314f05aee4bf38.jpg


ARF V2:
4057dffa85fd8def25711dad047b64a3.jpg
 
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M Scott

Renowned Member
22/9/18
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go for noob
thinner case
better pusher
cost more

ARF
Thicker case
Long pusher
Better bracelet and clap
Usually better sel but the latest batch is the same

You can fix the thicker ARF case as outlined below.

The latest ARF Daytona release has revised Shorter Pushers that are the same as Gen.

I have a skinny wrist like yours, and I bought both noob and ARF. Well, the latter is THICK. You’ll notice that on wrist. With the same bracelet sizing on both, the noob fits great while arf blocks my blood stream.
Ended up like many other fellas here, combining them. Put my dial and bezel on my noob. Totally satisfied with it to far, the ARF finishing and crispiness is really something else.

The ARF has a Decorative Plate and a Thinner Rotor added to the back of the a7750 movement to make it look like a Rolex 4310.

- If you remove the Decorative Plate and replace the Rotor with the correct heavier Rotor for an a7750, the movement will work much better.
- You can then use a Noob case back to achieve the same thickness as the Noob.
 

Spitfire63

Renowned Member
29/4/18
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If your not bothered about using the chrono, which in reality you never will, get the ARF
as your in the UK I would recommend using KS watches as your dealer
 

p0pperini

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Yeh I plan to take it to a Watchsmith to clean / oil it all anyway so I'm expecting this.

With regards to the chunkiness of this, was it clear and obvious for you?
I do have small wrists however can't imagine there's a huge difference in chunkiness.

Thanks for all your points so far guys - it really does help!
It’s probably good to take it to a watchsmith, given the fragility of any chrono movement. When I had my Noob/ARF super-rep built, Ado213 (UK watchsmith who did the work) found problems with the movement in both watches, that he fixed.

I had (till recently) 3 ARF Daytonas and 2 Noobs. I never notice the difference in thickness either the feel of wearing them or looking at the watches on my wrist, and I also have skinny wrists.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

thewelshone

You're Saying I Can Sell?
12/1/20
29
8
0
It’s probably good to take it to a watchsmith, given the fragility of any chrono movement. When I had my Noob/ARF super-rep built, Ado213 (UK watchsmith who did the work) found problems with the movement in both watches, that he fixed.

I had (till recently) 3 ARF Daytonas and 2 Noobs. I never notice the difference in thickness either the feel of wearing them or looking at the watches on my wrist, and I also have skinny wrists.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hmmm majority of the above ticks the ARF box for me tbh. When someone says the ARF is much thicker it does throw a spanner in the works but if you also have skinny wrists N0bby and didn't notice much of a difference, then perhaps the ARF is the right one for me.

As M Scott also suggests, if further down the line I want to upgrade, its possible to do so for approx $100 so should be the better by.

I doubt I'd ever use the chrono so the main price factor kinda becomes irrelevant.

If your not bothered about using the chrono, which in reality you never will, get the ARF
as your in the UK I would recommend using KS watches as your dealer

Thanks Spitfire63, he's been suggested by another member too so I'll certainly contact him in February


Thank you all for your help - you're awesome.
 

p0pperini

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Thanks Spitfire63, he's been suggested by another member too so I'll certainly contact him in February
I would also recommend KS, I bought my ARF Daytona Platona from him, and it's damn convenient for us here in Blighty, and costs much the same as ordering the watch from a TD plus their shipping. You can contact him now, he's in the UK - he just won't be able to get a watch for you till CNY is over.
 

p0pperini

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I'd never buy a chronograph watch with a non-functioning chronograph
You do a lot of sports timing then mari? Funny, I can't remember the last time anyone asked me to time their standing quarter.
 

mari115

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You do a lot of sports timing then mari? Funny, I can't remember the last time anyone asked me to time their standing quarter.

it's a matter of principle, do you usually watch the night sky or even give half a shit when checking the lunar phase complication on your dress watches? lmao, stop gatekeeping, it's like saying "don't buy a GMT watch unless you have a reason to track time in another timezone".

I do agree that it's not "useful" in everyday life, but just the fact of having a 4130 and knowing that if you fancy you can go ahead and chrono whatever you want, is on another league than knowing that you can't do it, since you have a stinky modified 7750 in there.
 

thewelshone

You're Saying I Can Sell?
12/1/20
29
8
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I'd never buy a chronograph watch with a non-functioning chronograph

I understand your point and I guess thats where opinions come into play with the "its your choice".

Personally I really don't think I'd ever use it - chrono has no actual sway for me. I like this watch personally because of the look and thus the ARF seems like it would be the right decision given all the points.

Btw thanks N0bby, I believe it was you who suggested him first to me on Day 1/2!
 
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p0pperini

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lmao, stop gatekeeping, it's like saying "don't buy a GMT watch unless you have a reason to track time in another timezone".
No, it's not like saying that, and I'm not "gatekeeping" mari - in fact, I was doing the exact opposite with my clunky sarcasm. I'm saying that you don't need to be even slightly interested in using the functions of a watch to want to own one. So, "stinky modified" 7750 or "sexy clone" 4130, it really doesn't matter very much. In My Opinion.