Spent $700 on a Daytona from Noob. Should I bother to service it once it arrives? It could cost me $200-250 to service, and the entire watch is only $700. What do you think? Is it worth it? Or am I better off using it for 5-10 years, and buying a new one if it dies?
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Should i service my $700 Daytona?
- Thread starter Devin423
- Start date
DaleM
I'm Pretty Popular
without service.It can go at any time. Wth service you lock in a few years. My new Hulk V9.5 died.after a couple weeks. I am pissed.but know this world.
The 4130 movement in the Daytona can be problematic. Some owners report theirs are fine. Mine failed within a short space of time. This was a first for me since getting into this hobby and having owned 60+ reps, and of course it had to happen to the most expensive one to get mended/serviced... The 4130 is complicated, so to get it serviced cost £160. However, I now have a Daytona that I know is reliable and should remain so (as DaleM says) for a good few years.
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well .. going to be tough in the first place to find someone capable of servicing a 4130 clone and putting it back to good working order without breaking something as the parts used in the movement may not be as forgiving as the GEN ones
would recommend not to touch it and keep fingers crossed that you get a decent lifetime out of it at least that long until spare parts for the movement are easily available
would recommend not to touch it and keep fingers crossed that you get a decent lifetime out of it at least that long until spare parts for the movement are easily available
The work on mine was done by Ado213 (UK based watchsmith and member here) and he had these comments on the A4130:
"I can see little reason on the A4130 why the chrono cant be used. it differs considerably in operation to the A7750 as it has a column wheel chrono operation.
It seem the components within are also made of decent material and I haven't seen any obvious weak spots in its design. The only one item that concerns me about the A4130 is the clutch wheel on the chrono. it can be a little temperamental. However if it's cleaned and oiled properly it functions well.
at least on this movement the Chinese have done something within the escapement that I've been longing to see for a long time. There are no banking pins on this movement, this tells me that they are confident in there pallet jewel setting and the machining of there escape wheel."
There are several watchsmiths on the various continents that RWI members come from - and plenty of A4130's have been worked on successfully. But sketchy assembly and quality control in Chinese "factories" will cause most problems. When Ado checked mine, he reported: "biggest problem was the chrono clutch wheel. Bit of an assembly error at the factory. Plus what looked like a silk thread wrapped around the intermediate wheel…”
Karlus
Renowned Member
- 4/7/17
- 705
- 320
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All movements from the Chinese factories typically come dirty and underoiled. Here is the commentary on one of them when the watchmaker serviced:
- The rotor was rubbing the movement. The posts that hold it were too tall so the screws weren’t able to clamp it properly.
- both KIF springs were replaced with genuine. The rep ones both broke but at least now these will be stronger.
- tons of oil on the chrono lobes.
- one of the pallet jewels is a little off. This is hard to explain but the pallet fork has 2 jewels that can be adjusted independently. My timegrapher can measure performance independently. One jewel is running at like 315 amplitude and the other is 285. There shouldn’t be 40 degrees of amplitude difference between them. 20 tops. Of course this is a re and it won’t hurt anything hit that’s why performance isn’t even higher.
The Daytona chrono is a complex machine, and I want to make sure its life is not cut short with something silly like dirt or metal on metal, or even broken parts.
- The rotor was rubbing the movement. The posts that hold it were too tall so the screws weren’t able to clamp it properly.
- both KIF springs were replaced with genuine. The rep ones both broke but at least now these will be stronger.
- tons of oil on the chrono lobes.
- one of the pallet jewels is a little off. This is hard to explain but the pallet fork has 2 jewels that can be adjusted independently. My timegrapher can measure performance independently. One jewel is running at like 315 amplitude and the other is 285. There shouldn’t be 40 degrees of amplitude difference between them. 20 tops. Of course this is a re and it won’t hurt anything hit that’s why performance isn’t even higher.
The Daytona chrono is a complex machine, and I want to make sure its life is not cut short with something silly like dirt or metal on metal, or even broken parts.
- 27/7/15
- 1,964
- 1,069
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I would service it if you like the watch and plan to keep it, under lubricated movements cause wear of parts that aren’t available as spares
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I serviced it too and will it get back in a few days. The watch gained around 20-40 sec/day and now should be around 2-3 sec/day. My watchsmith told me there was dirt inside and some parts where broke
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d3xophen
Renowned Member
- 15/9/18
- 611
- 203
- 43
I have 2 noob . 1 is service, other is not. Service 1 is no rotor noise, power reserved better.
I advice you, if you have many watches, many rotation do not service. But if you want daily beater daytona, I would recommed you to service. I used Goin on service, water test, bezel and dial swap, correct crystal height.
I advice you, if you have many watches, many rotation do not service. But if you want daily beater daytona, I would recommed you to service. I used Goin on service, water test, bezel and dial swap, correct crystal height.
Dissemination
Renowned Member
I keep my watches on a watch winder which spins in both directions... does this help improve longevity or decrease it? My understanding is that it is supposed to help, but not sure if it is the same with reps
Karlus
Renowned Member
- 4/7/17
- 705
- 320
- 63
It's like running your car engine. It puts "miles" on the movement. If you wear it daily or weekly, worth not pulling the crown and setting (risking damage). If you wear infrequently and have large collection, maybe not worth wear on the movement. If have about 30 watches and select the 2 I will wear that week. Those go on the winder.
I've read conflicting advice on this. The "you don't need to do that" camp generally argue that modern oils aren't prone to harden over time when the watch is stopped, so there's no need to subject the movement to additional wear by running it constantly.
- 3/4/14
- 329
- 114
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I think the consensus today is leaning more towards no winders with gens, as long as you bring them into rotation every one or two months. There are other factors at play too such as viscosity due to temperature change and heat cycles, both these factors affect lubrication longevity. With reps I would 100% not use a winder, just keep them in rotation and keep an eye on accuracy consistency.
The best way to determine if a movement needs a service is to buy a Timegrapher (also learn how to use it) and log all your watches periodically, this will tell you how the movements health is, You can buy them for £180 or use an iPhone Timergraper app.
With regards to spares for the new superclone movements, it would be best if you have a failure to buy a new watch and disassemble the watch for spares, I suspect that's what some members will do having a stock pile of spares for a particular movement, The longer the piece is in existence the more likely the factories will be happy to sell complete movements but it still might be more economical to buy a complete watch and break it down.
The best way to determine if a movement needs a service is to buy a Timegrapher (also learn how to use it) and log all your watches periodically, this will tell you how the movements health is, You can buy them for £180 or use an iPhone Timergraper app.
With regards to spares for the new superclone movements, it would be best if you have a failure to buy a new watch and disassemble the watch for spares, I suspect that's what some members will do having a stock pile of spares for a particular movement, The longer the piece is in existence the more likely the factories will be happy to sell complete movements but it still might be more economical to buy a complete watch and break it down.
hm11esh
Active Member
- 4/9/18
- 422
- 103
- 43
Could you please share the details of who serviced it for you at that price? I am keen to get one and would like to know who can service it.
Thank you
After buying a bunch of reps over the last months I would recommend to service this pieces right out of the box. I didn´t receive a single watch without serious technical issues e.g. underoiling, broken parts or dirt like metal shavings from machining process. Most of the reps are ticking 
) timebombs and will die soon if not serviced right away.
Btw, a higher price is not an indicator for a better quality in this business. QC pictures will tell about the look of the rep but never guarantee a proper functionality.
My recommendation is to find a good watchmaker first before you buy a replica watch.
) timebombs and will die soon if not serviced right away.Btw, a higher price is not an indicator for a better quality in this business. QC pictures will tell about the look of the rep but never guarantee a proper functionality.
My recommendation is to find a good watchmaker first before you buy a replica watch.
hm11esh
Active Member
- 4/9/18
- 422
- 103
- 43
Does anyone have an idea which parts should be changed to original movement parts to get a long lasting don't think about it movement?
My A4130 will go to the watchsmith in January hope the movement runs smooth till then!
Thank you!
My A4130 will go to the watchsmith in January hope the movement runs smooth till then!
Thank you!
The gen 4130 movement is really one or maybe the best chrono movement in the world.
Gen one is really awesomeness, quality of parts/jewels/assembly and lubrifiant made it run like this
Like you could see signal is most a perfect straight line, quite no instability,
The rep SH 4130 is really a awesome clone, but a clone, parts are not the same quality, jewels not same too, without talking about the assembly quality of this movement, so even if you serviced it you couldn’t have the same kind of stability, just because parts used in are not same quality and precision than the gen one, and your movement should most of time run like this, and for this SH 4130 is very good result,
As you could noticed there’s a difference of stability between the gen one, and it’s the result in differences quality parts between gen one’s.
Most parts in movement have huge differences between gen, hard to notice just by looking at, but on timegrapher there’s no doubt.
I had build several Franken Daytona movement, means using gen parts, what I have learned is even if only keep the rep mainplate and fit all rest movement parts by gen, in the best situation you will have a timegrapher as good SH serviced, but most of time movement should not work good even badly, so not all movement parts are to be swapped by gen, just some of them, to have a more reliable movement than the stock one it was but you couldn’t most of time same results as per gen is.
Of course made a servicing is better just due bad quality oils and assembly, this movement will like this run perfectly and you could enjoy it for years,
Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
Gen one is really awesomeness, quality of parts/jewels/assembly and lubrifiant made it run like this
Like you could see signal is most a perfect straight line, quite no instability,
The rep SH 4130 is really a awesome clone, but a clone, parts are not the same quality, jewels not same too, without talking about the assembly quality of this movement, so even if you serviced it you couldn’t have the same kind of stability, just because parts used in are not same quality and precision than the gen one, and your movement should most of time run like this, and for this SH 4130 is very good result,
As you could noticed there’s a difference of stability between the gen one, and it’s the result in differences quality parts between gen one’s.
Most parts in movement have huge differences between gen, hard to notice just by looking at, but on timegrapher there’s no doubt.
I had build several Franken Daytona movement, means using gen parts, what I have learned is even if only keep the rep mainplate and fit all rest movement parts by gen, in the best situation you will have a timegrapher as good SH serviced, but most of time movement should not work good even badly, so not all movement parts are to be swapped by gen, just some of them, to have a more reliable movement than the stock one it was but you couldn’t most of time same results as per gen is.
Of course made a servicing is better just due bad quality oils and assembly, this movement will like this run perfectly and you could enjoy it for years,
Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk