Right Track or Off My Rocker?

[GMT1675]

I have been reading almost non-stop since joining RWI a week or so ago. Just trying to absorb everything I can and get ahead of the game. As such, I have a rather large spreadsheet that I've whittled down to a small list of watches I used to own (or want to own) -- and may acquire as rep's. Here's where I need a little guidance. I've read MANY posts, the NWBIG list, researched SuperRep's and this is the result.

The question is: Am I on the right track or are there any glaring errors in the best factory/version category?

Watch	Model No.	Factory / Version
Black Bay ^	Varying	ZF
Heritage Chrono ^	79350
Datejust	116234	ARF
Daytona	116520	ARF / NOOB
GMT Master	1675 / 16710	BP
Oyster Perpetual	114300	JF *
Sea Dweller	116600	BP
Submariner	5513	JF
Submariner	1406	BP
Submariner	7928
Submariner	7016
* = Best of the Best	^ = Not previously owned

THANKS for any input from the more learned members of this group.
GMT1675

 

[chocolito]

 

[GMT1675]

Am I about to get flamed for asking this? Or, are you just laughing at a newbie for asking?
Either way, I'll endure the answers. And, hopefully gain some insight & knowledge from them.

 

[DD60]

Kudos for actually doing research -
Research the TD's and find one to go with.
Good luck !

 

[chocolito]

Am I about to get flamed for asking this? Or, are you just laughing at a newbie for asking?
Either way, I'll endure the answers. And, hopefully gain some insight & knowledge from them.

I'm laughing because your OP is just another way of asking ' Which is the best ....?'

OK I will play , the BEST 116600 SD isn't BP it is the NOOB V2...D​​on't think they are currently available .

All the ZF Heritage BB's are excellent . However the best is still the current Red Bezel shield version ( v4).

The JF 114300 OP isn't available through TD's anymore ( at least I'm pretty sure it isn't) as it is has been superseded by the ARF 904L version ( Arf/ JF are the same factory ) which isn't as good . You should look for one in the M2M sales , don't buy the Blue Dial the colour of the dial is shit.

 

[applestooranges]

Not sure why you got flak for the post, since you obviously did your research and on some level, this entire forum is "just another way of asking 'Which is the best ...?'" Guess you just have to get a few months on your join date before some of the members around here lay off...

You're definitely on the right track there, if you're gonna go through any TD make sure to email them about availability first since a few of the models you listed, especially the older subs tend to be OOS or assembled with parts from a few different versions. The vintage subforum is one of the nicer places on RWI if you wanna start throwing a vintage model together!

 

[Alexccmeister]

For the Daytona, I think you can pretty much forget about ARF. The Noob daytona movement itself (which is a clone of the rolex movement) is worth the $688 you spend to buy the watch IMHO.

 

[KushBandit]

For the Daytona, I think you can pretty much forget about ARF. The Noob daytona movement itself (which is a clone of the rolex movement) is worth the $688 you spend to buy the watch IMHO.

No kidding. I'd rather wear a fatter 7753 BP or JF Daytona than the slimmer, phoney chrono ARF.

4130 is boss-hog. I can't wait to get one.

 

[GMT1675]

I'm laughing because your OP is just another way of asking ' Which is the best ....?'

OK I will play , the BEST 116600 SD isn't BP it is the NOOB V2...D​​on't think they are currently available .

All the ZF Heritage BB's are excellent . However the best is still the current Red Bezel shield version ( v4).

The JF 114300 OP isn't available through TD's anymore ( at least I'm pretty sure it isn't) as it is has been superseded by the ARF 904L version ( Arf/ JF are the same factory ) which isn't as good . You should look for one in the M2M sales , don't buy the Blue Dial the colour of the dial is shit.

Okay, I'll take the ribbing... and thank you for helping even if you thought it was just another "Which is best...?" question.

So, follow up on the 116600 SD. I read this whole thread where multiple people were saying the BP is the best. Now, I'm confused. Not challenging your assessment; just wondering.

And, THANKS for the pointer on the blue dial OP. I was kinda stuck between the grey and the blue. Now, I know which to look at more closely. Last one - I'm not a snowflake hand admirer, but the Tudor BB has grown on me. I used to buy, refurb case & bracelet - and turn the snowflake Subs right & left bc I never wanted to keep one. Now, I'm considering the BB and those fugly hands.

BTW, I love that there are normally definitive ways to tell which factory/model is the best -- and that so many folks take the time to actually quantify their reasons for saying which is better.

 

[mydnytrydr]

This thread is evolving into a classic... Thank you OP for stating what you have found, and thanks to all the others who will contribute. THIS is the spirit of the forum. A topic is brought to the members who are encouraged to add their opinion.

 

[M Scott]

No kidding. I'd rather wear a fatter 7753 BP or JF Daytona than the slimmer, phoney chrono ARF.

4130 is boss-hog. I can't wait to get one.

But the ARF Daytona is pretty... like Daisy.

 

[chocolito]

Okay, I'll take the ribbing... and thank you for helping even if you thought it was just another "Which is best...?" question.

So, follow up on the 116600 SD. I read this whole thread where multiple people were saying the BP is the best. Now, I'm confused. Not challenging your assessment; .

That is a different watch chap !!!! The thread you read is about an earlier incarnation of the watch . So i'm glad you are not challenging my assessment because you have your 16600's and your 116600's mixed up chap .

The best 116600 Sea Dweller is the NOOB V2 .

The best 16600 is the BP .

One ( BP) is a rep of the 5 figure SD ( 16600) which was discontinued in 2008 and replaced by the Deep sea.

The other ( Noob V2 ) is the newer 6 figure SD( 116600) reintroduced at Basel World 2014 .

Out of 2 DEFINITELY GET the 116600 by NOOB ( v2 ) it is the far superior watch . Although the TD's list them not sure if they are still available. They go like shit off a shovel on M2M . A very sought after rep

 

[GMT1675]

That is a different watch chap !!!! The thread you read is about an earlier incarnation of the watch . So i'm glad you are not challenging my assessment because you have your 16600's and your 116600's mixed up chap .

The best 116600 Sea Dweller is the NOOB V2 .

The best 16600 is the BP .

One ( BP) is a rep of the 5 figure SD ( 16600) which was discontinued in 2008 and replaced by the Deep sea.

The other ( Noob V2 ) is the newer 6 figure SD( 116600) reintroduced at Basel World 2014 .

Out of 2 DEFINITELY GET the 116600 by NOOB ( v2 ) it is the far superior watch . Although the TD's list them not sure if they are still available. They go like shit off a shovel on M2M . A very sought after rep

Thanks for clearing that up for me. After reading around 5-8 hours a day for the past *&%$# days, numbers are starting to cross...as are my eyes.
So, if I happen to find the NOOB V2 new somewhere, would you opt for the Swiss ETA 2836-2 or is the A2836-2 good enough? This is a watch I plan to keep for awhile, so I'm assuming the extra $100 (or so I've seen for other such movement upgrades) would be worth the difference. Then again, I don't want to throw away the extra money if the A2836-2 is a good movement. I know...I know...back to reading young schmuck newbie (me). LOL!

 

[chocolito]

Thanks for clearing that up for me. After reading around 5-8 hours a day for the past *&%$# days, numbers are starting to cross...as are my eyes.
So, if I happen to find the NOOB V2 new somewhere, would you opt for the Swiss ETA 2836-2 or is the A2836-2 good enough? This is a watch I plan to keep for awhile, so I'm assuming the extra $100 (or so I've seen for other such movement upgrades) would be worth the difference. Then again, I don't want to throw away the extra money if the A2836-2 is a good movement. I know...I know...back to reading young schmuck newbie (me). LOL!

There is no thing as a GENUINE Swiss ETA in a replica watch . For one the Swatch group govern who and where they can be sold . Unless you are buying off somebody who mods watches and has swapped the 'A' movement for a gen for one off custom watch .

I don't see any of the RWI TD's claiming to be selling watches with genuine Swiss ETA movements . If a site is offering an upgrade to a genuine movement for an extra $100 it is a scam to prize some extra money from you .

It's easy to calculate chap check out the cost of a genuine new ETA movement . Then compare it to the watch cost and i guarantee you will find it is a monetary impossibility .

The Chinese factories have been making clone ETA movements for a long time they are on the whole super reliable . Get the A2836 and spend the extra $100 on a service .

Didn't you say you have a large high end GEN collection when you joined the site ? You don't seem to have picked up much watch knowledge in that case .

 

[mari115]

i think the OP should be praised because not everyone does his own research.
Nicely done, continue reading and gain more and more knowledge! you'll be swallowed whole from this hobby

 

[GMT1675]

There is no thing as a GENUINE Swiss ETA in a replica watch . For one the Swatch group govern who and where they can be sold . Unless you are buying off somebody who mods watches and has swapped the 'A' movement for a gen for one off custom watch .

I don't see any of the RWI TD's claiming to be selling watches with genuine Swiss ETA movements . If a site is offering an upgrade to a genuine movement for an extra $100 it is a scam to prize some extra money from you .

It's easy to calculate chap check out the cost of a genuine new ETA movement . Then compare it to the watch cost and i guarantee you will find it is a monetary impossibility .

The Chinese factories have been making clone ETA movements for a long time they are on the whole super reliable . Get the A2836 and spend the extra $100 on a service .

Didn't you say you have a large high end GEN collection when you joined the site ? You don't seem to have picked up much watch knowledge in that case .

Thanks for the answer chocolito. I must have stated my question incorrectly. Nonetheless, I received a competent answer and I appreciate that. BTW, here's the site (non-TD) I found that shows the particular version of the watch we were discussing -- from the recommended factory/version: Noob V2. The option for a Swiss ETA 2836-2 was odd to me -- thus my question.


FWIW, with further reading, I found this thread just today. A bit dated, but still more helpful info and a chance to learn.

As for my collection, I *had* a large high end GEN collection -- but that was almost 20 years ago. I was also well-versed in Rolex/Tudor watches, movements, cases, etc - back then.

Due to some health issues, my mental capacity for memorization has declined and I am no longer at the top of my game. I'm sorry I haven't kept up, but other things became priority for me - and a lot of my watch knowledge has been long forgotten. I'm not angry at your derogatory comment and calling that out. Just wanted you to understand that I'm not a rookie. THANKS again for your insight and information. I have to write a lot down these days and your posts are helpful.

 

[chocolito]

Thanks for the answer chocolito. I must have stated my question incorrectly. Nonetheless, I received a competent answer and I appreciate that. BTW, here's the site (non-TD) I found that shows the particular version of the watch we were discussing -- from the recommended factory/version: Noob V2. The option for a Swiss ETA 2836-2 was odd to me -- thus my question.

1) Don't buy from a NON TD

2).I have already answered your question chap . The watch doesn't come with a GEN ETA it is a Scam to get an extra $100 from you .

3) You can take my replies as you like chap . I have tried to be helpful . I have deleted most the babel you have written .If you feel they are derogatory then that's your interpretation . You just can't help some people i guess .

4) Chap order a watch from a random website you have Googled . If you actually get a watch, and your CC details aren't stolen. Then lets see if you get the watch you ordered a Noob V2 ( which i don't think Noob make anymore ) . However i guarantee if you are taken in by the gen ETA for an extra $100 . You will receive a watch with an Asian ETA in .

5) Just noticed the site you link is TS Station I think he used to be a TD ( ?).. However was removed for various misdemeanors . Enough said !

Anyway don't bother replying horse to water and all that .

 

[GMT1675]

chocolito, I have been polite to you and will continue to do so - undeserved or not. Anyway -- Yes, you answered my question and I thanked you for your insight. Have a good weekend!

Now, maybe we can get this thread back on topic without the condescending tone.

 

[GMT1675]

Here's my updated short list:

Black Bay Heritage = ZF / (V4) 2016 / Red / Shield
Datejust 116234 = ARF
Daytona 116500 = NOOB (A4130) Wht-Ceramic
Daytona 116520 = NOOB (A4130) Black-Polished
Oyster Perpetual 114300 = JF (M2M) / ARF 904L (better)
Sea Dweller 116600 = NOOB (V2) (M2M most likely)
Submariner 114060 = BP <---Not sure of this one

Now, are there any glaring errors?

 

[chocolito]

here's my updated short list:

Black bay heritage = zf / (v4) 2016 / red / shield
datejust 116234 = arf
daytona 116500 = noob (a4130) wht-ceramic
daytona 116520 = noob (a4130) black-polished
oyster perpetual 114300 = jf (m2m) / arf 904l (not as good)
sea dweller 116600 = noob (v2) (m2m most likely)
submariner 114060 = bp <---not sure of this one

now, are there any glaring errors?

user ignored