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GMF 2019 Batman 126710?

cwfmon

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It’s looks fine. Accept it. Yes the transition is off a bit but that’s common on these so you likely won’t get anything better. Timing is fine. Regulate it after you get it if you want it under 10 s/day. I see no scratches on the clasp. Finally, it’s against forum rules to post QC pics and ask what all is wrong. It’s fine to post them and point on specific items, as you did.

It looks good overall. Accept it or cancel it, get your 90% back and wait for one to pop up M2M for less than retail.
 

KJ2020

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KJ2020 rcom440 what do you guys Think of this one?

Welcome to the rep world bro. I just received my 29th and 30th yesterday and I still hate it that these samples get you 90% of the way there and then leave you ultimately feeling disappointed. It does get easier after that realization sinks in and then you start doing the tweaks on things you just can't tolerate.

Comments on your service.
What you got is typical, way better than some I've tolerated. I paid for a Daytona Aug 27 2018 and received it Dec 8 2018. I once paid a 15% restocking fee not to get stuck with a watch I hated after seeing it. And I had a TD give me "credit only" in the form or TWO SEPARATE coupons not to be used in the same order after failing to source a part for me. So yeah I'd say your service was A OK.

Comments on your watch.
The color transition at 18 should happen 15% into the 8. And the number 1 in 18 should be straighter, almost parallel to the transition line. The transition point flaw has been pointed out in this thread by me, I think they chose to do it to eliminate the chance of a speed bump in a cutout. Known issue, all samples will be the same.

Clasp is not scratched, it's on the plastic.

The watch will need to be regulated, I keep all mine at under 5 s/d. The beat error is 0.0, which is a much more important measurement. The amplitude is low, should be at least 270 but this is affected by winding. Don't reject it for the timegrapher readings.

The box picture is just showing you how it will come as an example. You can't see any details, so who cares what watch is there? The pics overall are very good quality, many TDs provide worse - they don't want you to see flaws.

The rehaut is the biggest flaw. See the minute tic mark reflections in the rehaut? That's exactly where all those letters should be. The rehaut is tiny and a lot of people can overlook it, at least the crown at 12 o'clock is OK. I rejected a GMF Sub on which this the only flaw, real shame because otherwise it was a near perfect watch. You have to decide what you can live with. My choice on the Batman was a Noob with a replacement insert. The rehaut engraving is much better. I paid hell getting an insert to where I could live with it. Sourcing, digging out white paint, multiple paint mods. Easily 15 hours of work over about a month.

Your rehaut
VN6ktg.jpg


If you want a GMF, you aren't likely going to see a better one. I've learned to "blur my vision" a little when looking at my reps and try to fix what I can't tolerate. There are a lot of good things to say about your watch, most of these minor flaws dissolve away after a few weeks on your wrist.

BTW other tells on all ICHS GMT reps besides the rehaut and the insert are always going to be there - the GMT hand on the bottom, and the second hand is uncapped (hole in the middle). Most reps will not look gen without a lot of help. We must delude ourselves to be pleased. How delusional can you be is the question we all must answer.

VwMKaD.jpg
 

GeoAnarg

You're Saying I Can Sell?
8/7/16
83
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8
Welcome to the rep world bro. I just received my 29th and 30th yesterday and I still hate it that these samples get you 90% of the way there and then leave you ultimately feeling disappointed. It does get easier after that realization sinks in and then you start doing the tweaks on things you just can't tolerate.

Comments on your service.
What you got is typical, way better than some I've tolerated. I paid for a Daytona Aug 27 2018 and received it Dec 8 2018. I once paid a 15% restocking fee not to get stuck with a watch I hated after seeing it. And I had a TD give me "credit only" in the form or TWO SEPARATE coupons not to be used in the same order after failing to source a part for me. So yeah I'd say your service was A OK.

Comments on your watch.
The color transition at 18 should happen 15% into the 8. And the number 1 in 18 should be straighter, almost parallel to the transition line. The transition point flaw has been pointed out in this thread by me, I think they chose to do it to eliminate the chance of a speed bump in a cutout. Known issue, all samples will be the same.

Clasp is not scratched, it's on the plastic.

The watch will need to be regulated, I keep all mine at under 5 s/d. The beat error is 0.0, which is a much more important measurement. The amplitude is low, should be at least 270 but this is affected by winding. Don't reject it for the timegrapher readings.

The box picture is just showing you how it will come as an example. You can't see any details, so who cares what watch is there? The pics overall are very good quality, many TDs provide worse - they don't want you to see flaws.

The rehaut is the biggest flaw. See the minute tic mark reflections in the rehaut? That's exactly where all those letters should be. The rehaut is tiny and a lot of people can overlook it, at least the crown at 12 o'clock is OK. I rejected a GMF Sub on which this the only flaw, real shame because otherwise it was a near perfect watch. You have to decide what you can live with. My choice on the Batman was a Noob with a replacement insert. The rehaut engraving is much better. I paid hell getting an insert to where I could live with it. Sourcing, digging out white paint, multiple paint mods. Easily 15 hours of work over about a month.

Your rehaut
VN6ktg.jpg


If you want a GMF, you aren't likely going to see a better one. I've learned to "blur my vision" a little when looking at my reps and try to fix what I can't tolerate. There are a lot of good things to say about your watch, most of these minor flaws dissolve away after a few weeks on your wrist.

BTW other tells on all ICHS GMT reps besides the rehaut and the insert are always going to be there - the GMT hand on the bottom, and the second hand is uncapped (hole in the middle). Most reps will not look gen without a lot of help. We must delude ourselves to be pleased. How delusional can you be is the question we all must answer.

VwMKaD.jpg

Thanks for the comments

How is the Noob insert compared to GMF? better or worse ?
 
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KJ2020

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Thanks for the comments

How is the Noob insert compared to GMF? better or worse ?

Noob insert is unusable with or without a paint mod. Must be replaced with something different.

Noob insert is the one on the watch

lU4Ga.jpg
 

KSwatches

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To my eyes (and in real life next to gen at normal viewing distance) the rep insert is close enough. Of course in zoomed pictures there are differences but these are academic IMO.

The biggest issue with GMF (like practically all Rolex reps is the crystal/cyclops) and the hands.

Gen hands are something else...curved and shiny. All reps hands (noob, GMF, BP) are shit.

GMF(top), gen(bottom):
777a6e388790ecef003380a3498a60ce.jpg


I don’t see the “transition” issue that a lot of people here obsess over. There are bigger issues that nobody sees when only comparing gen vs rep in pictures...such as the difference in hour marker sparkle and geometry, which adds a significant dimension to gen aesthetics (but this flaw exists in all rep sports models I have seen).
0a822bd8e264095801f29e73a884ab66.jpg
 
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KJ2020

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To my eyes (and in real life next to gen at normal viewing distance) the rep insert is close enough.
I don’t see the “transition” issue that a lot of people here obsess over.

The transition issue is the speed bump in the 6 and 18 cutouts created by the merging of the two insert halves. It's one of those those flaws you can't unsee once you know it is there. It's still there on the GMF, but much better than the Noob. The Noob is quite visible even at arm's length. Total dealbreaker for most of us. Aftermarket insert makers can do this with hardly any speed bump, what can't they all? I dug the white paint out of an aftermarket insert, the speed bump is there but easily covered with only a couple coats of paint.

VNhJrq.jpg


lkSiU.jpg


Snzvr.jpg
 
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KSwatches

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Sorry but the transition on bezel is a none issue. Can’t see where the blue finishes and black starts in real life....the two colours blend into each other. When one member posts a zoomed in issue of a “flaw” it feeds the paranoia of the community and then the issue gets blown out of proportion.

https://youtu.be/ePXj0wot2Q8

Let’s talk about the real issue with reps:

Rep hands are flat and ugly
Rep hands are always dirty
Rep dial marker surrounds are dull and not 3D like gen
Rep crystal is cloudy
Rep cyclops is milky


This is just my opinion as a gen and rep collector.
 

GeoAnarg

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Noob insert is unusable with or without a paint mod. Must be replaced with something different.

Noob insert is the one on the watch

lU4Ga.jpg

Thanks

ready bad even to my untrained eyes

top one is genuine rolex?

How easy is to find one?
 

KJ2020

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Sorry but the transition on bezel is a none issue. Can’t see where the blue finishes and black starts in real life....the two colours blend into each other. When one member posts a zoomed in issue of a “flaw” it feeds the paranoia of the community and then the issue gets blown out of proportion.

https://youtu.be/ePXj0wot2Q8

Let’s talk about the real issue with reps:

Rep hands are flat and ugly
Rep hands are always dirty
Rep dial marker surrounds are dull and not 3D like gen
Rep crystal is cloudy
Rep cyclops is milky


This is just my opinion as a gen and rep collector.

When people complain about the transition it's not the colors they're referring to in most cases. The placement of the color joint is definitely a factor in some models, the GMF 18 color transition occurs before the 8 instead of 15% into it, easily seen on someone else's wrist by anyone who knows. But the speed bump in the cutouts is another issue altogether and it SCREAMS fake from afar. That it is a non-issue for you is a blessing. We all have different levels of tolerance for flaws and this community is way more particular about them than even most gen owners.

Of course you are right about all the other flaws. We hate them too! But a good insert goes a long way toward giving us a feeling of overall satisfaction. Rep Rolex ceramic inserts so far are not faring very well. Bad color Hulks, non-centered ARF Sub markers, white lines in GMF Pepsi transitions, dull or dirty/fading marker paint, the list goes on. Most of them suck. I'll take an aluminum insert any day, but not on a 6 digit of course. Wish they had never changed them. I have two well used gen 16710 inserts 30 years old that look like NOS. They last just fine if given proper care.

15246658446040.jpg


15319240796280.jpg
 

KSwatches

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We all have different levels of tolerance for flaws and this community.

I agree and it’s good to discuss what we each can and can’t live with.

Just so I am clear...what is the spec of this insert?
f6e6cf449bb8e8dab2537ce06899bf71.jpg

3ee238efce85bde494303b1973202481.jpg
 

KJ2020

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I agree and it’s good to discuss what we each can and can’t live with.

Just so I am clear...what is the spec of this insert?
f6e6cf449bb8e8dab2537ce06899bf71.jpg

3ee238efce85bde494303b1973202481.jpg

It's an aftermarket from ebay. I tried about 6 different paint mods on it over the course of a month. Nearly all aftermarket ceramic inserts are thinner than rep factory ones and therefore come with shallow cutouts. They also almost all have white paint. A paint mod is largely unsuccessful over the white paint for two reasons. The white paint nearly fills up the cutouts, leaving no room for extra fill, and there's a clearcoat of lacquer over the white paint that new paint does adhere to well.

https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/rolex-tudor-replicas/7402168-noob-batman-v9/page12
 

KSwatches

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Gen bezel numerals looks very smooth, even under loupe. Therefore they reflect light like a mirror.

With a hand painted bezel, the texture is rough and light is not reflected like a mirror. As a result the bezel looks off in real life on the wrist IMO.

The texture on stock rep bezel numerals is good. It is smooth like gen.

Gen : Rep : hand painted
a29459f15fd0a42e11cab1f011240f9b.jpg


Maybe it’s just me but the hand painted bezel looks worse than stock rep in terms of texture and crispness. Rough numerals will act like a black hole in terms of light reflection compared to gen numerals (which shine like a smooth mirror).

This looks very rough and not gen like IMo
87bf325777dc10338c4c043330899d49.jpg
 

KJ2020

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Gen bezel numerals looks very smooth, even under loupe. Therefore they reflect light like a mirror.

With a hand painted bezel, the texture is rough and light is not reflected like a mirror. As a result the bezel looks off in real life on the wrist IMO.

The texture on stock rep bezel numerals is good. It is smooth like gen.

Gen : Rep : hand painted
a29459f15fd0a42e11cab1f011240f9b.jpg


Maybe it’s just me but the hand painted bezel looks worse than stock rep in terms of texture and crispness. Rough numerals will act like a black hole in terms of light reflection compared to gen numerals (which shine like a smooth mirror).

This looks very rough and not gen like IMo
87bf325777dc10338c4c043330899d49.jpg

The one that you said looks rough is the bare marker after the white paint was dug out. Bare ceramic. After painting, there is indeed texture there but it is not visible at arms length. What is visible is a beautiful brilliant silver color that while a bit above the briilant look of the gen (making it look non-gen), it is IMO far better than the dull color of most factory rep inserts. Even in low light on an angle, mine glitters back brightly at me and makes me smile. That is afterall what we want these toys to do.

Typical unmodded GMF on top, my Noob with aftermarket paint modded insert on bottom.

VN3eye.jpg
 
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rcom440

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The one that you said looks rough is the bare marker after the white paint was dug out. Bare ceramic. After painting, there is indeed texture there but it is not visible at arms length. What is visible is a beautiful brilliant silver color that while a bit above the briilant look of the gen (making it look non-gen), it is IMO far better than the dull color of most factory rep inserts. Even in low light on an angle, mine glitters back brightly at me and makes me smile. That is afterall what we want these toys to do.

Typical unmodded GMF on top, my Noob with aftermarket paint modded insert on bottom.

VN3eye.jpg

It’s nice from far but up close it’s very noticeable.
im trying to figure out which would be best paint mod with smoothest texture.
It all depend on paint application. Spray will be uneven when it comes to texture. I think very fine brush for micro detailing would be much much better option.
 

KJ2020

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It’s nice from far but up close it’s very noticeable.
im trying to figure out which would be best paint mod with smoothest texture.
It all depend on paint application. Spray will be uneven when it comes to texture. I think very fine brush for micro detailing would be much much better option.

I've tried them all. Molotow or other acrylic doesn't last. You can brush it on til it's almost dry and it's super smooth.

https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...68-my-molotow-cocktail-with-springs-and-balls

Testors enamel is too thick without using thinner and capillary action. Then the problem is keeping it from running and globbing to the sidewalls while being thin in the middle. GMT triangles are really hard to get right. I re-did this one 5 or 6 times before giving up and switching to spray.

https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...e-pilworx-penultimate-platinumizing-procedure

Sputter coating is the solution but that takes tools and skills that very few people have. Spongebob is the master, he even chamfers the top of the sidewalls. Expensive and only worrh doing on a keeper IMO.

Even the gen looks textured if you get close enough you can see the platinum parricles.

Vzs7bQ.jpg
 

rcom440

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I've tried them all. Molotow or other acrylic doesn't last. You can brush it on til it's almost dry and it's super smooth.

https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...68-my-molotow-cocktail-with-springs-and-balls

Testors enamel is too thick without using thinner and capillary action. Then the problem is keeping it from running and globbing to the sidewalls while being thin in the middle. GMT triangles are really hard to get right. I re-did this one 5 or 6 times before giving up and switching to spray.

https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...e-pilworx-penultimate-platinumizing-procedure

Sputter coating is the solution but that takes tools and skills that very few people have. Spongebob is the master, he even chamfers the top of the sidewalls. Expensive and only worrh doing on a keeper IMO.

Even the gen looks textured if you get close enough you can see the platinum parricles.

Vzs7bQ.jpg

I feel like I could easily do that pilwpilworx penultimate platinumizing mod. I think I will get tools super strong loops with stand and try it.
 

KSwatches

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Even the gen looks textured if you get close enough you can see the platinum parricles.

Vzs7bQ.jpg



This is a highly photoshopped image. Not representative of real life. Gen texture is smooth and shines like a mirror. Under ultra high magnification, it is possible to see nano particular texture but under high magnification it is still smooth and in real life is should look smooth like a mirror. I feel that there are no hand paint techniques that won’t make your watch look home made
 

KSwatches

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This is a better representation of what gen numeral texture looks like under magnification (ie it is essentially smooth):

3d2b8dc4fb9a457fa6f39cf4b08145bf.jpg


Under ultra high magnification and cleaver picture editing, you can see nano particular structure on gen numerals but this is not the same as seeing rough micro blobs of home applied paint...that will make your bezel look off in real life on the wrist (may look good in pics if that’s your goal)
 

KJ2020

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Mine looks as good at arms length as it does in that pic. That's how I see it 99% of the time. If anyone comes up with something better that can be done DIY, I'll be the second one to do it.
 
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KJ2020

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I feel like I could easily do that pilworx penultimate platinumizing mod. I think I will get tools super strong loops with stand and try it.

Pilworx was a master at it, his triangles were perfect. It's important to keep the insert level when doing the triangle. That means elevating the 12 o'clock end so the bezel curve is neutralized. I used a ball of rodico, which helps anchor it from sliding around as well. I had it almost perfect a couple times but thought maybe one more coat would be even better and BOOM, I screwed it up. Another time I tried to put an epoxy clear coat over it like BK used to do on his paint mods. BIG mistake, won't ever do that again. I never got around to trying Pilworx's clear coat technique although I bought the supplies. By then I'd had enough.

It worked well for a guy on RG with an Explorer metal bezel.

https://www.repgeek.com/keeping-up-appearances/302045-bezel-insert-paint-explorer-ii.html