New Noob daytona 904L V2

[M Scott]

I couldn't see any flaws or any things that would bother me so i accepted this beauty.

Yes, the new Black dial is looking really good!

 

[M Scott]

You can post pics only after you accept the watch from what I understand?

Not true, you just have to be careful with what you ask other members for went you post QC pictures.

 

[xartan]

You can ask about a specific flaw you have identified I think.

 

[dashing]

Just got the QC, and can someone sanity check if this is the v2? I'm not very confident of the R and O in the dial, though the sub-dials look pretty slim.

Also, seems like the 3 and/or 6 marker is crooked. Therion666 could this be one of your rejects? ):

 

[M Scott]

You can ask about a specific flaw you have identified I think.

The Quotes that I posted above are directly from the Moderators of this Forum posted in Stickies.
Sorry that I didn't spell that out clearly before...

Purpose of QC pic:

1) ensuring that you are getting the right watch
2) identifying any serious flaws in the item

You may post a QC pic if you have a specific question about a possible serious flaw that you have found, and want input on how common or acceptable it is. However, the purpose of QC pics, and especially posting it on the open forum, is not: "Dealer X has sent me this QC pic, what do you think?" or "xxxxxx under 1000x magnification looks slightly xxxxxx, should I accept?" etc.

We expect everyone to do their own research and homework as to whether an item is acceptable to them. If you haven't noticed a flaw, asking 38K members to jump in and identify all the problems they can possibly find is unfair to everyone. It's unfair to the folks who have taken the time and effort to learn about this hobby. It's even more unfair to the dealers, who have to individually buy the watches for you, inspect and photograph it, only to have you decide that some tiny imperfection which you never noticed in the first place, renders the piece unacceptable.

QC pics should only be posted if you have some doubt and need to ask a question such as "Hey guys, the lume on the 6 looks a bit wonkey to me, should I let it go or ask for another watch?" or "Is the SEL gap on this excessive or is that normal on this model?" or even "I was told this is a V3.5 but I'm not sure, is it?" That sort of thing, not a general "can anyone see anything wrong?"

 

[RepHoro]

on it's way to Greece along with an ARF bezel
can't wait !

this is an example of an off centered dial. (Ref pic in post 486) It’s not extreme bad but it’s noticable. I see this in about half (or more) of the white dial V2 4130’s. For whatever reason it’s a more common flaw in the white dial. Compare the gap between the indices and rehaut at the 12 o’clock vs the 6 o’clock position - the gap is largest at 6 and smallest at 12. No it’s not the angle or light and shadows playing tricks - it’s off centered. I handle dozens of these a month and it’s a real issue and yes it’s noticable on the wrist and yes it will bug you. At first you’ll just notice something not right about the symmetry of the dial and you won’t really identify it precisely until you put it under a loop. I wish Noob would fix this the bezel engraving brightness issue and the SEL fit because those are the only flaws in an otherwise terrific watch!

 

[kopite81]

this is an example of an off centered dial. (Ref pic in post 486) It’s not extreme bad but it’s noticable. I see this in about half (or more) of the white dial V2 4130’s. For whatever reason it’s a more common flaw in the white dial. Compare the gap between the indices and rehaut at the 12 o’clock vs the 6 o’clock position - the gap is largest at 6 and smallest at 12. No it’s not the angle or light and shadows playing tricks - it’s off centered. I handle dozens of these a month and it’s a real issue and yes it’s noticable on the wrist and yes it will bug you. At first you’ll just notice something not right about the symmetry of the dial and you won’t really identify it precisely until you put it under a loop. I wish Noob would fix this the bezel engraving brightness issue and the SEL fit because those are the only flaws in an otherwise terrific watch!

My QC shows this but the opposite way around, My gap is larger at 12, As im swapping my dial for the v2 ARF im not rejecting - I pretty much only got the watch for its movement / case

 

[RepHoro]

Just got the QC, and can someone sanity check if this is the v2? I'm not very confident of the R and O in the dial, though the sub-dials look pretty slim.

Also, seems like the 3 and/or 6 marker is crooked. Therion666 could this be one of your rejects? ):

This is an example of a good centered dial. When I examine these things in the hand I focus on the dial center - bezel brightness and SEL fit - because those are the 3 most common areas that are easily visible to the eye. It’s rare to find one that doesn’t have at least one of those issues. For whatever reason the V2 SEL fit seems worse than the V1 fit although as someone pointed out this could very well be fixed with spring bar.

 

[Therion666]

Just got the QC, and can someone sanity check if this is the v2? I'm not very confident of the R and O in the dial, though the sub-dials look pretty slim.

Also, seems like the 3 and/or 6 marker is crooked. Therion666 could this be one of your rejects? ):

Nope, I only got QCs for the black dial. After that I was told that both colors were out of stock and they had no idea when Noob will provide more. So I wonder where all these watches are coming from all of the sudden..??

 

[RepHoro]

My QC shows this but the opposite way around, My gap is larger at 12, As im swapping my dial for the v2 ARF im not rejecting - I pretty much only got the watch for its movement / case

Absolutely the correct attitude to have. I have 6 and only 2 of them are good on all three of those areas - and those were picked from over 20 that I inspected by hand - like you I’d own this watch even if it was in a shit case just because of the movement. It is a real achievement - great power reserves - moves in the correct direction (hands and crown) and keeps chronometer level time and is almost as thin as gen

 

[xartan]

this is an example of an off centered dial. (Ref pic in post 486) It’s not extreme bad but it’s noticable. I see this in about half (or more) of the white dial V2 4130’s. For whatever reason it’s a more common flaw in the white dial. Compare the gap between the indices and rehaut at the 12 o’clock vs the 6 o’clock position - the gap is largest at 6 and smallest at 12. No it’s not the angle or light and shadows playing tricks - it’s off centered. I handle dozens of these a month and it’s a real issue and yes it’s noticable on the wrist and yes it will bug you. At first you’ll just notice something not right about the symmetry of the dial and you won’t really identify it precisely until you put it under a loop. I wish Noob would fix this the bezel engraving brightness issue and the SEL fit because those are the only flaws in an otherwise terrific watch!

You’re right. It’s pretty obvious once you see it.

 

[M Scott]

Just got the QC, and can someone sanity check if this is the v2? I'm not very confident of the R and O in the dial, though the sub-dials look pretty slim.

Also, seems like the 3 and/or 6 marker is crooked. Therion666 could this be one of your rejects? ):

The markers look okay to me...
.


Not sure if I have any "sanity" so I'll just post this picture of your Noob with a Gen and an ARF, then you can decide...
.

 

[Jpme]

When the chronograph is running my watch runs like a dog, lost 10 seconds in like an hour. Funnily enough the chronograph seconds hand looked fine but the 6 o clock dial was 10 seconds behind on 1 hour.

Without the chronograph running I seem to be getting the more acceptable +9s day

Did I get a dud?
I'm happy with the asthetics but I'm very disappointed with the watch overall

Also anyone have a watchmaker in Sydney Australia they could recommend that I could give my noob V2 Daytona to fix up. Needs to be

The amplitude and beat error look amazing on this movement. It doesn’t look like it needs service in any way.

If it’s losing time, at 10sec per hour, it might just be underwound. I’d wind the shit out of it and keep track of the loss wearing it a couple or 3 days (without running the chrono). Not having a full wind after build and shipping can make a watch look like a dud.

After that, I’d determine what load the chronograph puts on it. BTW, the gen isn’t built to hit perfect spec while running concurrently for long runs.

All that being said, I’d have it calibrated for the 10sec loss ( or what ever the results are from your testing), with a watch maker.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[dashing]

This is an example of a good centered dial. When I examine these things in the hand I focus on the dial center - bezel brightness and SEL fit - because those are the 3 most common areas that are easily visible to the eye.

thanks for your comment on the dial orientation, appreciate it a lot! What is your opinion of the bezel brightness?

Nope, I only got QCs for the black dial. After that I was told that both colors were out of stock and they had no idea when Noob will provide more. So I wonder where all these watches are coming from all of the sudden..??

Ah, I see. Thought you were looking at the white ones too. No idea, maybe there is a new batch?

The markers look okay to me...
...
Not sure if I have any "sanity" so I'll just post this picture of your Noob with a Gen and an ARF, then you can decide...
...

Aye, thanks! I was trying to do the same in GIMP, but failed miserably. From your picture, it looks good to me.

- - -
Judging from the comments, I think that I'm just paranoid. Thanks everyone! I'll post a wrist shot when it arrives.

 

[Jpme]

Has anyone received a Noob 116519 lately? I ordered on from my TD on Jan 10th, and I haven’t been able to get an ETA on QC pictures since.

I know CNY has an expected delay, but that’s ended weeks ago.

Short question, are these back ordered?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[freediver]

this is an example of an off centered dial. (Ref pic in post 486) It’s not extreme bad but it’s noticable. I see this in about half (or more) of the white dial V2 4130’s. For whatever reason it’s a more common flaw in the white dial. Compare the gap between the indices and rehaut at the 12 o’clock vs the 6 o’clock position - the gap is largest at 6 and smallest at 12. No it’s not the angle or light and shadows playing tricks - it’s off centered. I handle dozens of these a month and it’s a real issue and yes it’s noticable on the wrist and yes it will bug you. At first you’ll just notice something not right about the symmetry of the dial and you won’t really identify it precisely until you put it under a loop. I wish Noob would fix this the bezel engraving brightness issue and the SEL fit because those are the only flaws in an otherwise terrific watch!

You are right, i didn't notice before
I intend to service it right away, so maybe interaktiv can center it
Thank you !

 

[RepHoro]

The amplitude and beat error look amazing on this movement. It doesn’t look like it needs service in any way.

If it’s losing time, at 10sec per hour, it might just be underwound. I’d wind the shit out of it and keep track of the loss wearing it a couple or 3 days (without running the chrono). Not having a full wind after build and shipping can make a watch look like a dud.

After that, I’d determine what load the chronograph puts on it. BTW, the gen isn’t built to hit perfect spec while running concurrently for long runs.

All that being said, I’d have it calibrated for the 10sec loss ( or what ever the results are from your testing), with a watch maker.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The watch is not underwound - please do not excessively wind the watch manually - If you go beyond 30 half rotations you run the risk of jamming the movement - I actually did it - it did not appear to damage the movement - but after that manual wind did not have a silky smooth operation like it did before - to start a dead watch manual wind 10-15 half turns and give it a little shake. If you ever start feeling the crown getting “tight” don’t wind any further - just shake set the time and wear.

10 seconds per hour is way way off. Out of the box the movement should be within 10-15 seconds per day. An amplitude of 270-310 is fine - 300 is about perfect. Beat error below 0.5 is acceptable - most out of the box are 0.0 - 0.2.

Your watch needs to be regulated - easily done by yourself with a little patience. A 29.5mm lug to remove the back case and a timegrapher (order from Otto Frei in Oakland) are all you really need. To regulate the movement (ie make it run faster or slower) you need to adjust to regulator arm - which is the top arm of the scissor like set of arms at the 9 o’clock position in the pic below. Start by putting it on a timegrapher to see wear you are. If you’re gaining 10 seconds per hour you’ll see a heinously large number like 500 sec per day. Rotate the lever clockwise a millimeter at time until you get with it 30-40 seconds per day. You’ll see that the lever is incredibly sensitive - if you narrow it to 30 sec fast and then push another 1mm you can easily overshoot to 30s/d slow. Try to as best you can to get writhin 10-15 sec. Then put the case back back on hand tight and wear for 10-15 min to let it settle in - then out on time grapher - keep repeating this process until you get it to +3-6 sec - you’ll find that it’s so sensitive you’ll almost never be able to “put it there” - you’ll have to hit that number through luck and trial and error. Once you get it there put the case back on again and check the time over the next few hours - if after 6 hours you’re still wishing a couple of seconds - just leave it alone - unless you’re really OCD like me and you keep working it until you’re within 3 s/d. It’s better to be a little fast than slow because it makes setting exact time super easy - if after 3 days your 15 sec fast - simply hack the second hand for 15 seconds.

Thats really it in a nut shell.

BTW - this pic is from one of my watches - google 4130 and compare it to gen. They’ve done a good job but the finish isn’t as good as gen - you’ll also see that the regulating and beat error arms (the scissor levers) are different on the gen and a fairly obvious instant giveaway. Never the less - this is a fantastic vertical clutch chrono movement!

 

[15450]

Puretime sells just the dial. So far no where that I have checked sells the bezel. So it's either be happy with a dial swap or buy a doner arf watch swap the dial and bezel and try to resell the arf doner watch with a noob dial and bezel

The Noob Bracelet and clasp better then ARF?

 

[xartan]

The clasp is nicer on the ARF and you can fit. I hear the SEL wont fit.

It seems like this quickly becomes a $1500+ project if you throw in a service and shipping+modding work hour costs.

 

[Flyin_gnome]

The Noob Bracelet and clasp better then ARF?

It's my understanding that the ARF is the superior bracelet and clasp. But I really like the Noob one.