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How to LOWER the SEL on your watch!!! Noob V9 flush fix!

KJ2020

Time Traveler
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12/3/18
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Mate. I applaud your dedication, it hurts me to write this as you went all out on trying to make this work, but it's extremely difficult to achieve even curvature using that method. I tried it as well, alas I'm not as good at it as some of the members here (or as bad as others)

I would still recommend this method above all else: https://forum.replica-watch.info/for...sel-on-sub-rep - SeikoFan improved upon my recommended technique significantly, which he quoted in his first comment

The beauty of the linked method is that it's completely reversible; doesn't take much time (unless you make it take a lot of time), and there is very little chance of damaging the watch, and it keeps the [almost] perfect machined curvature. Although in the end what you do with your watch and what you feel is best is always up to you

Cheers,

It's actually quite easy to keep the accurate curve using thin strips of sandpaper along the surface at the edge. Using the sandpaper in two hands like a shoeshine cloth, it's easy to shift your focus, or center of force to a desired spot along the SEL surface at the edge. I was constantly telling myself after checking the fit, 'need more off the bottom third, need a little off the top half', etc. and then proceeding accordingly. I see an acceptable curve match in this pic.

15347293908274.jpg


I look forward to checking out the other method again, I've checked it a number of times and never saw it anything but stalled. One drawback of that method is that it also lowers the center section of the SEL, in fact the entire SEL, away from the bezel. That's never a good thing, especially if there was already a gap there to begin with.
 

JDM180

Banned member, the goat does not approve
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3/9/13
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problem with the springbar method for me has been getting a correct sized bar , that can be packed but still be strong. Been really difficult to get the bar in with the tape and still been loose.

Just stepping the bottom of the sel at the case makes the sel edge stick up as well at the opposite edge of the lugs
 

JDM180

Banned member, the goat does not approve
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Looking ay my gen id be amazed if there is more than 1mm of recess so it dosnt need much taken off
 

Vvvlllooo

I'm Pretty Popular
13/6/15
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Mate. I applaud your dedication, it hurts me to write this as you went all out on trying to make this work, but it's extremely difficult to achieve even curvature using that method. I tried it as well, alas I'm not as good at it as some of the members here (or as bad as others)

I would still recommend this method above all else: https://forum.replica-watch.info/for...sel-on-sub-rep - SeikoFan improved upon my recommended technique significantly, which he quoted in his first comment

The beauty of the linked method is that it's completely reversible; doesn't take much time (unless you make it take a lot of time), and there is very little chance of damaging the watch, and it keeps the [almost] perfect machined curvature. Although in the end what you do with your watch and what you feel is best is always up to you

Cheers,

Yes, totally I would definitely do your method first..plan A. I would do everything before this method as you can revert back. Not a lot has tried this method due to the fact that you can't go back if you screwed up. But having tried it...it was very simple. The other huge factor considering was, not damaging the second to last link. Your steady hands do need to come out. Practice first on metal, then go for it. I am just introducing another option to helping out some folks as I had found the other options to not work. Before you go out and buy a $170 ARF band, and pray it fits, you have to try all of these options I believe. As you can see in Kj2020 photo on his kermit..that looks perfect. As JDM180 had said, you don't need to take off much at all and if you run out of options, give this a whirl. The more we share ideas..the better this improves!
 
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Vvvlllooo

I'm Pretty Popular
13/6/15
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It's actually quite easy to keep the accurate curve using thin strips of sandpaper along the surface at the edge. Using the sandpaper in two hands like a shoeshine cloth, it's easy to shift your focus, or center of force to a desired spot along the SEL surface at the edge. I was constantly telling myself after checking the fit, 'need more off the bottom third, need a little off the top half', etc. and then proceeding accordingly. I see an acceptable curve match in this pic.

15347293908274.jpg


I look forward to checking out the other method again, I've checked it a number of times and never saw it anything but stalled. One drawback of that method is that it also lowers the center section of the SEL, in fact the entire SEL, away from the bezel. That's never a good thing, especially if there was already a gap there to begin with.

that looks really good
 
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antoktok

You're Saying I Can Sell?
23/7/19
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hey guys you'll probably laugh at me questioning this, but how do I separate the SEL from the 2nd link, when it has no pins/screw to push out from the 2nd link of the bracelet?
 

Vvvlllooo

I'm Pretty Popular
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hey guys you'll probably laugh at me questioning this, but how do I separate the SEL from the 2nd link, when it has no pins/screw to push out from the 2nd link of the bracelet?

you will need a link separator tool
 

Smoke

Legendary Member
18/3/13
14,093
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Great work man .but it's easier for us average dudes to use the allready perfect arf bracelet in our noob v9 or v8 or v7.I know you said you had issues. But I've never had that issue all mine fitted perfectly.i bet there was a batch issue .anyway this is some good work very cool
 
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Vvvlllooo

I'm Pretty Popular
13/6/15
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Great work man .but it's easier for us average dudes to use the allready perfect arf bracelet in our noob v9 or v8 or v7.I know you said you had issues. But I've never had that issue all mine fitted perfectly.i bet there was a batch issue .anyway this is some good work very cool

Yes, I believe it was a bad batch bracelet as I found others fixed this.