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How to LOWER the SEL on your watch!!! Noob V9 flush fix!

Vvvlllooo

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So many of you have gotten the Noob V9. It is an awesome watch to begin with and with some mods, it can become the ultimate Franken. When it was first released, there was a batch that had the holy grail of watches. Correct case, sharp laser etching on rehaut, correct crown placement, 904L, lugs…etc..not going to some up the V9 thread, as you have to read it yourself, the whole 200 plus pages. Then, after that batch came the FLUSH SEL’s. The horror!!!!!

If you haven’t read the V9 with ARF bracelet thread, here is the summary of it. It’s a hit or miss when it comes to ordering an ARF bracelet. I’ve ordered the band by alone from a trusted dealer, keep in mind my original band already was recessed like gen, costing I believe $170 plus shipping don’t quote me on it. It fit but there was a gap from the lug, less than <1mm. Then two weeks ago I ordered the 2824 ARF Sub, received it, out of curiosity, and installed the bracelet on my V9, and boom….perfect fit…recessed SEL??? As I kept getting messages on the ARF on V9 bracelet thread..I took some time to do some actual physical measuring and this is what I had concluded. You have to physically remove excess metal from the top. I measured the ARF bracelet against my V9, and surprisingly, they are so close. My V9 had a little of beef on the TOP side of the measurement, but was still recessed to my watch. So I had decided to figure out how to do this mod with the thought of the easiest, cost efficient, and low skill needed. Two guys I would like to personally thank is Kj2020 and Qualityazn as I found ideas from these guys while reading RWI. Hopefully, this will help the many of you. Skill level to do this mod to your watch is 4/10. Take your time, sand with caution (best tip is just manually do it with your hands), and be patient. Total time it took me was less than an hour and total cost to get a tool (Tekton External Bent tip Ring Pliers) $7, sand paper $8 (used 320 /400/800/1200 grit combo you can buy at autostore), and a paint mixer (free).

BTW I used a bracelet I had from a cheap Regimer for example.

Noted: You can use glue to hold together for piece of mind and when you do press your bracelet together just make sure you have two pieces of wood with same height. This will help you press them with equal force as the bracelet is becomes wider as it gets to the end link. Do not press the end link.


Without further ado..here are the picts…



HERE IS THE CULPRIT





YOU CAN USE SPEAKER WIRES, REMOVE WIRES, AND PUT ON METAL PLIERS IF YOU FEAR METAL ON METAL. SURPRISINGLY I DIDN’T EVEN HAVE TO USE IT, NO DAMAGE AS I WAS GENTLE, YOU DON’T NEED TO FORCE.


PUT INSIDE BAG IN CASE IT GOES FLYING EVERYWHERE










PLACE END LINK IN BETWEEN WOOD TO HOLD IT, WON’T HURT OR SCRATCH IT


EASY TO INSTALL AND ADJUST ALONG THE WAY TO SEE PROGRESS


WHEN DONE AND SATISFIED WITH ALL USE SCTOCH BRITE TO PUT “GEN” BRUSHING ON



BENT ONE OF THE SCREWS THAT HOLD IT TOGETHER, NO WORRIES JUST USE PLIERS AND RESHAPE BACK










https://www.pixelsbin.com/image/zUWNu
 

Vvvlllooo

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Now you can use your thick spring bars with no movement or play. Also, flush underside and no hideous gap or End link protruding out. Also, no damage to links whatsoever!
 
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Dr Fun Socks

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Great thread man, thanks for taking the time to post it! Call me stupid but does removing material not make the fit ever so slightly looser? I got a gmt master ii in today and the sel is looser than a wizards sleeve, not even in the side to side fit but up and down. Going to order an arf bracelet and put this into action if its a flush fit :)
 
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preppyr6

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Wow, fantastic. May do this on my incoming GMT. as well. Its so simple...hows the brushing before and after with the scotchbrite? is this considered the best way to brush "like gen" or are there other better options? I remember a whole thread or two last year about brushing "like gen" or "per gen" or smth...
 

Vvvlllooo

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Great thread man, thanks for taking the time to post it! Call me stupid but does removing material not make the fit ever so slightly looser? I got a gmt master ii in today and the sel is looser than a wizards sleeve, not even in the side to side fit but up and down. Going to order an arf bracelet and put this into action if its a flush fit :)

put a little glue on it and you should be fine
 

Vvvlllooo

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Wow, fantastic. May do this on my incoming GMT. as well. Its so simple...hows the brushing before and after with the scotchbrite? is this considered the best way to brush "like gen" or are there other better options? I remember a whole thread or two last year about brushing "like gen" or "per gen" or smth...

There is a “gen” pad...but why? Even gsome Ge n owners use the “green” scotch method. Has to be the green one though. I’ve done this to previous bands and it looks good, like gen. You may want to do whole band to remove all scratches if you want but depending on what makes you satisfied.
 
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KJ2020

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Hey bro, fantastic work and great documentation! Really an advantage to remove the SEL from the bracelet, this will make it much easier. Couple of things I would like to add if you don't mind (learned the hard way!):

Taping up the PCL will keep stray sanding nicks from giving you extra work later
While a wood backed sandpaper takes material off faster, finishing up with strips of paper alone make it easy to adjust the curve and keep it accurate. You can use the strips like floss along the top of the SEL, back and forth, it works great.
Take care not to remove any material from the bottom edge of the SEL, this will unnecessarily increase the gap between the SEL and the first link. This is especially important if you use the "flossing" method above!

Awesome post, well done!

15348766540121.jpg

15347745996510.jpg

15347293908274.jpg
 
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Vvvlllooo

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Hey bro, fantastic work and great documentation! Really an advantage to remove the SEL from the bracelet, this will make it much easier. Couple of things I would like to add if you don't mind (learned the hard way!):

Taping up the PCL will keep stray sanding nicks from giving you extra work later
While a wood backed sandpaper takes material off faster, finishing up with strips of paper alone make it easy to adjust the curve and keep it accurate. You can use the strips like floss along the top of the SEL, back and forth, it works great.
Take care not to remove any material from the bottom edge of the SEL, this will unnecessarily increase the gap between the SEL and the first link. This is especially important if you use the "flossing" method above!

Awesome post, well done!

15348766540121.jpg

15347745996510.jpg

15347293908274.jpg

add away brother, appreciate any ways to make it better!!!!
 

Drifter

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Great effort there mate. You were determined and got a solution.



Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 
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JDM180

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Great that a few of us are working towards a solution. As you know I've managed to track down and purchase the professional tool for splitting these links so hope to be able to add to the solutions of this soon.

Something I've wondered is doing this does the center link now look like it oddly protudes higher or is it not noticable ? And are the edges/lines easily retained ?
 

Vvvlllooo

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Great that a few of us are working towards a solution. As you know I've managed to track down and purchase the professional tool for splitting these links so hope to be able to add to the solutions of this soon.

Something I've wondered is doing this does the center link now look like it oddly protudes higher or is it not noticable ? And are the edges/lines easily retained ?

No, try not to even shave the middle or get close, just get the outer edge. I used the two wooden blocks to hold (secure) the end link together. I held it so I was only sanding down the edges, I suppose you can tape the center link too, but I had a regimer so I did not. Even so, it did not scratch with the wood, keep in mind you need to scotch brite the link later. You really do not have to take too much off at all, depending on how you want it to look. Believe you me, you want to just keep the edge. I used a sharpie and drew a line on the edge of the end link, where I wanted to sand so I could keep track of where I needed to sand. Make a little wood tool like Kj2020 had said and it will help you better with your edges. Do stay away from the bottom as you do not need to take any or much off and make that gap big.

Wow, you're going to get that tool...good for you mate!
 

thestallion

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Great thread bud!! This can help a lot of people!

My ARF bracelet is on the way, can't wait to see how it fits the V9, then I might start working on your fix. Do you think it makes sense to work on an ARF bracelet as well or just on the Noob?
 

Vvvlllooo

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Great thread bud!! This can help a lot of people!

My ARF bracelet is on the way, can't wait to see how it fits the V9, then I might start working on your fix. Do you think it makes sense to work on an ARF bracelet as well or just on the Noob?

Noob as it was made for your watch
 

KJ2020

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Looks even worse than before

Here's BP's solution for this issue (came to me this way from the factory), so we are light years ahead in this effort. With some practice in keeping the curve accurate there is no better solution to recessing SELS than taking some material away from the edges. Results improve as skill develops.

15369988623280.jpg


15369777669721.jpg


15369777670182.jpg
 
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Vvvlllooo

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Here's BP's solution for this issue (came to me this way from the factory), so we are light years ahead in this effort. With some practice in keeping the curve accurate there is no better solution to recessing SELS than taking some material away from the edges. Results improve as skill develops.

15369988623280.jpg


15369777669721.jpg


15369777670182.jpg

Yes, that looks messed up but as you said...practice makes perfect. Just needed an easy way to not damage the link and you can start to modify that end link.
 

nikoel

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Mate. I applaud your dedication, it hurts me to write this as you went all out on trying to make this work, but it's extremely difficult to achieve even curvature using that method. I tried it as well, alas I'm not as good at it as some of the members here (or as bad as others)

I would still recommend this method above all else: https://forum.replica-watch.info/for...sel-on-sub-rep - SeikoFan improved upon my recommended technique significantly, which he quoted in his first comment

The beauty of the linked method is that it's completely reversible; doesn't take much time (unless you make it take a lot of time), and there is very little chance of damaging the watch, and it keeps the [almost] perfect machined curvature. Although in the end what you do with your watch and what you feel is best is always up to you

Cheers,
 
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