I’ve had a rep blue dial datejust for a very long time, it was a cheap NYC purchase. It’s always looked nice on the wrist, but there were several obvious tells. The seconds hand was totally wrong, some glue under the logo at 12, printing was mediocre, wear in some areas has revealed it’s plated brass, etc. It does have some sentimental value, that watch has been through a lot with me over the years, but I decided it was time to upgrade. Before I get too far into the journey I’ll give a quick build summary for those that don’t want to read the whole thing. If anyone wishes to challenge that any of the parts are genuine, please call me out on it; they were purchased as genuine, but I’m not above the notion that I got taken. Good luck telling with these low res cell phone pics.
Gen 1500 case, case back, bezel, crystal and crown (ebay)
Gen 7835 bracelet and associated clasp (ebay)
Gen 357 End Links (ebay)
Gen step shoulder spring bars (local AD)
Gen Dial (non-forum reseller)
ETA 2836-2 (yeah, I know gen is a low beat)
Raffles 34mm hand set
Yuki movement ring and holders for 34mm case
I initially wanted a direct replacement for the datejust, but found the 16 series cases difficult to find and pricing was inflated on the ones available. I was able to snatch up a 15 series case set and that is what determined the final build.
I was planning on just getting a rep bracelet until I could find a deal on a gen, but one popped up, so I jumped at the chance. Then I put some crappy spring bars in so I could wear an empty case around the house.
While searching for a dial, I purchased the 2836, date wheel overlay, ring and hands. At this point I was committed to a 15 series date. I knew I would also need a new crystal with the Cyclops, but it’s vintage and the very old dates had no Cyclops, so I wasn’t too worried yet. I found several date dials in blue, but they were all gold markers and I didn’t want a two-tone.
I found a faded silver airking dial that caught my eye and purchased it. Guess I won’t be needing that DWO. When the dial arrived it was far more gold than the pictures had suggested, lesson learned, ask for a photo in the sun to get the true color. I gave it a chance to grow on me and I came to accept it.
While fiddling around with the dial feet, the dial got some sticky residue on it near 3. I tried to lift it with rodico, no dice. Then I figured I would try some 10% IPA, bad idea, it stripped some color. Another lesson learned, always wear gloves when handling the dial and never use alcohol on it. Well now I have a dial I can mess around with. But in that time I did decide I liked the no-date better and it would make for an easier first build. Back to the search and I found a blue airking dial. Not perfect, but appeared original and was in a condition consistent with 50+ years of service.
Now I was ready to build during spare time in the evenings. First step was low hanging fruit to build my confidence: fitting the crown, should be easy. Pulled the stem, inserted the crown and reinstall the stem. I pushed too hard on the button and messed up the keyless works. OK, I guess the second step would be disassembly of the keyless works. Several articles and the service manual later, I got the keyless back together, but it still didn’t function. Looked at the articles again: forgot to set the yoke arm in the castle gear. Back apart again. While screwing in the yoke on the second try I knocked over the movement and the hour, minute, date and a 4[SUP]th[/SUP] wheel went flying. Things are going great, step 1.5 would be figuring where each belongs and reinstalling. Then back to step 2. Finally got the keyless together and the balance wheel started spinning again. Huge sense of accomplishment.
Now to clip some dial feet, wearing gloves and working as clean as possible. No problem this time. I decided to set new dial feet using burgeon replacements and dial dots. I made a template in CADD, printed it and taped it to a piece of magic eraser, which works surprisingly well. Taped the template, inserted the dial feet, placed the dial dots on the feet, then used a nail as a post to center the dial. Dropped the dial down on to the feet and lifted it back up.
Finally I can start making things look like a watch. I started with a dry fit before setting the hands. The assembly was too tall. I know others had used a 2836 in a 1500 case, so something was awry. The dial was a fraction of a mm too big for the case. I’m sure the veterans saw this coming 5 paragraphs ago, but I didn’t. At least I have a spare dial I can experiment with. I attached the spare dial to a low speed drill and let it spin while gently applying a grinding stone to the edge. And that worked well, so I repeated with the actual dial. I got it down to a nice, snug fit.
Dry fit again and it still seems too tall, but it’s not the dial that’s resisting everything seating, it’s the yuki ring that’s blocking the movement holders. So back to the garage with a dremel to grind out the inside of the spacer. And finally, everything drops into the case and the holders tuck right into the case lip.
Back out of the case and on the home stretch pressing in the hands. A nice clean seat and everything clears. Back in the case it goes and time to trim the stem. A slight mis-measurement on my part and I trim the stem a fraction too short. All still comes together fully, but I need to open the case to get it into the operating position.
There are a few outstanding items. I need to get some stems on order to correct that issue. I did leave some dust on the dial, so it needs to come apart again to address that. There are also a couple dents on the case back. Hoping I can work those out with an automotive PDR kit. I did order a second set of hands, I may try aging them to better match the sticks. Finally, I need to search out some genuine tudor dress hands to round it out.
A huge thanks to all the contributors to this group. I would not have been able to accomplish this without the numerous legacy posts with parts, sources, techniques, tools, etc.
Gen 1500 case, case back, bezel, crystal and crown (ebay)
Gen 7835 bracelet and associated clasp (ebay)
Gen 357 End Links (ebay)
Gen step shoulder spring bars (local AD)
Gen Dial (non-forum reseller)
ETA 2836-2 (yeah, I know gen is a low beat)
Raffles 34mm hand set
Yuki movement ring and holders for 34mm case
I initially wanted a direct replacement for the datejust, but found the 16 series cases difficult to find and pricing was inflated on the ones available. I was able to snatch up a 15 series case set and that is what determined the final build.
I was planning on just getting a rep bracelet until I could find a deal on a gen, but one popped up, so I jumped at the chance. Then I put some crappy spring bars in so I could wear an empty case around the house.
While searching for a dial, I purchased the 2836, date wheel overlay, ring and hands. At this point I was committed to a 15 series date. I knew I would also need a new crystal with the Cyclops, but it’s vintage and the very old dates had no Cyclops, so I wasn’t too worried yet. I found several date dials in blue, but they were all gold markers and I didn’t want a two-tone.
I found a faded silver airking dial that caught my eye and purchased it. Guess I won’t be needing that DWO. When the dial arrived it was far more gold than the pictures had suggested, lesson learned, ask for a photo in the sun to get the true color. I gave it a chance to grow on me and I came to accept it.
While fiddling around with the dial feet, the dial got some sticky residue on it near 3. I tried to lift it with rodico, no dice. Then I figured I would try some 10% IPA, bad idea, it stripped some color. Another lesson learned, always wear gloves when handling the dial and never use alcohol on it. Well now I have a dial I can mess around with. But in that time I did decide I liked the no-date better and it would make for an easier first build. Back to the search and I found a blue airking dial. Not perfect, but appeared original and was in a condition consistent with 50+ years of service.
Now I was ready to build during spare time in the evenings. First step was low hanging fruit to build my confidence: fitting the crown, should be easy. Pulled the stem, inserted the crown and reinstall the stem. I pushed too hard on the button and messed up the keyless works. OK, I guess the second step would be disassembly of the keyless works. Several articles and the service manual later, I got the keyless back together, but it still didn’t function. Looked at the articles again: forgot to set the yoke arm in the castle gear. Back apart again. While screwing in the yoke on the second try I knocked over the movement and the hour, minute, date and a 4[SUP]th[/SUP] wheel went flying. Things are going great, step 1.5 would be figuring where each belongs and reinstalling. Then back to step 2. Finally got the keyless together and the balance wheel started spinning again. Huge sense of accomplishment.
Now to clip some dial feet, wearing gloves and working as clean as possible. No problem this time. I decided to set new dial feet using burgeon replacements and dial dots. I made a template in CADD, printed it and taped it to a piece of magic eraser, which works surprisingly well. Taped the template, inserted the dial feet, placed the dial dots on the feet, then used a nail as a post to center the dial. Dropped the dial down on to the feet and lifted it back up.
Finally I can start making things look like a watch. I started with a dry fit before setting the hands. The assembly was too tall. I know others had used a 2836 in a 1500 case, so something was awry. The dial was a fraction of a mm too big for the case. I’m sure the veterans saw this coming 5 paragraphs ago, but I didn’t. At least I have a spare dial I can experiment with. I attached the spare dial to a low speed drill and let it spin while gently applying a grinding stone to the edge. And that worked well, so I repeated with the actual dial. I got it down to a nice, snug fit.
Dry fit again and it still seems too tall, but it’s not the dial that’s resisting everything seating, it’s the yuki ring that’s blocking the movement holders. So back to the garage with a dremel to grind out the inside of the spacer. And finally, everything drops into the case and the holders tuck right into the case lip.
Back out of the case and on the home stretch pressing in the hands. A nice clean seat and everything clears. Back in the case it goes and time to trim the stem. A slight mis-measurement on my part and I trim the stem a fraction too short. All still comes together fully, but I need to open the case to get it into the operating position.
There are a few outstanding items. I need to get some stems on order to correct that issue. I did leave some dust on the dial, so it needs to come apart again to address that. There are also a couple dents on the case back. Hoping I can work those out with an automotive PDR kit. I did order a second set of hands, I may try aging them to better match the sticks. Finally, I need to search out some genuine tudor dress hands to round it out.
A huge thanks to all the contributors to this group. I would not have been able to accomplish this without the numerous legacy posts with parts, sources, techniques, tools, etc.
