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Noob Daytona vs ARF Daytona

Micasol

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qdGid.jpg


Thinking if putting a gen gasket or shave the noob gasket. Then it should be finished

Better is a gen one, the inner shape of it is slightly different of the rep one, and it will fit in perfectly with the case shape.
Be aware to test it with your crystal and bezel before fit in the watch case, the gen gasket we could easily find are for steel bezel not ceramic ones, they are a little more fat, so you have to shave it a little 0,2 mm (was on mine) to fit in, if not you could break the ceramic bezel.


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topreplika

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6/2/17
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topreplika I actually cannot see any SEL tells can you show me the difference please?
An important difference is the engraving in the rehaut… but I've spent so many years with my gen and I've never, never watched even once how the engraving is done…. the main problem is this forum for me!!!!
I also see an important tell in the glass thickness although my daytona is exactly 12.4 as the gen. I also dont see the gasket whilst in gens you see a white stripe around the glass. But leaving noob stock glass and gasket gives you a thicker watch ... probably it's just me, I've spent too much time looking daytona's pics for example i do recognize a non gen bezel immediatly (I have a gen bezel now) although people write that the arf bezel is perfect (I've spent few weeks with it and imho it is an istant tell). I know, I'd have to buy a gen!

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ps please show me your gen 2tone Daytona!!!!!

know what you mean bro. I had a noob 116610ln v4 before ,and I was happy with it cuz nobody could catch the differences.Even my watch smith of that time said to me : this is a gen can’t be a replica and when I found this forum I sold it. (if you are a picky person, you’ll become more reading this forum...)It is not a bad thing at all for me cuz now I know what to buy or not... I think your watch is stunning and it looks pretty fine to me. I can’t see the new pic that u sent me but by the old pic (maybe is from the angle or I can’t see it right) the sels ,especially the right one looks a bit elevated. But probably is the pic...
162a2db2b6c3d3e907574304dc60f2b2.jpg



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topreplika

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know what you mean bro. I had a noob 116610ln v4 before ,and I was happy with it cuz nobody could catch the differences.Even my watch smith of that time said to me : this is a gen can’t be a replica and when I found this forum I sold it. (if you are a picky person, you’ll become more reading this forum...)It is not a bad thing at all for me cuz now I know what to buy or not... I think your watch is stunning and it looks pretty fine to me. I can’t see the new pic that u sent me but by the old pic (maybe is from the angle or I can’t see it right) the sels ,especially the right one looks a bit elevated. But probably is the pic...
162a2db2b6c3d3e907574304dc60f2b2.jpg



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My gen 2 tone
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hadamokel

Active Member
11/12/17
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Germany
For waterproof what’s important is low pressure, to 3 bars, damage flaws are most of times on low pressure not high, if watch is waterproof on low test it will be for sure on high one, but inverse is not warranty, you could have waterproof on high and not low.
Under pression gaskets takes their place and well protect the case, but in low one if gaskets not good or case shape not good, gaskets could not do their job and cause damage. It’s why watches are tested in low pressure and not especially in high one.


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Interesting point.

Well my ARF and Noob Daytona both passed the TD 3 bar, but when my watchmaker tested for leaking (wet test) there were bubbles coming out the ARF crown. The crown gasket needed re-greasing.

I guess low and high pressure need to be tested to be really sure
 

Micasol

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Interesting point.

Well my ARF and Noob Daytona both passed the TD 3 bar, but when my watchmaker tested for leaking (wet test) there were bubbles coming out the ARF crown. The crown gasket needed re-greasing.

I guess low and high pressure need to be tested to be really sure

Agree must grease all gaskets and test by your watchmaker and not especially only the td’s one


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mir36

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5/6/09
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Spent the better part of my day reading all 117 pages of this thread and am now $1,371 poorer. But I couldn’t be happier that Noobs are on order, 116500 and 116520. Thank you guru and the rest of the gang for sharing all this great information.
 

Rathfus

Horology Curious
18/1/19
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2
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A couple of questions about the Noob from a newbie:
1. With this level/price or replica how long should I reasonably expect the watch to last if I take care of it?
2. Should you always bring a newly purchased replica to a watchmaker for tune up, cleaning, and water proofing when you get it?
 

ssouthall6

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A couple of questions about the Noob from a newbie:
1. With this level/price or replica how long should I reasonably expect the watch to last if I take care of it?
2. Should you always bring a newly purchased replica to a watchmaker for tune up, cleaning, and water proofing when you get it?

The answer to both of those questions is completely subjective.

Regardless of price, the conditions a finely tuned watch like this are manufactured in will mean that the likelihood of failure is higher is higher on the rep than the gen.

But a better perspective is:

1. The trusted dealer system means you will get what you pay for
2. If you do get a problem, there are a number of forum watchsmiths that will fix your rep
3. There are a number of forum watchsmiths that will service and prolong the life of your rep if that's your preference (I prefer to service on arrival, many don't)




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The Tourist

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Ad 1&2) If taking care of it also involves an initial check of the movement (e.g. a small service, meaning oiling the right parts at the right location and a small three axis adjustment for accuracy) and then the occasional movement service only when needed, you can enjoy this rep for years to come. This is what I will do as soon as my Noob arrives.
Nevertheless, quite some owners here have stated that their Noob and concretely the movement arrived in a very good condition, it was clean and accurate ootb. Maybe the rotor could be a bit loud, but a little bit of oil (the right one only of course) will likely reduce the loudness. So, if you want to be on the safe side, and you already know a watchmaker which can/will do that, then do it. Just my pov.

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ssouthall6

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Who is saying there's a new dial comming after CNY?

I don't think there's any evidence there's going to be one, but you won't get anything before CNY except M2M now anyway.


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Therion666

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Who is saying there's a new dial comming after CNY?

I am. They have released the 116519 recently and it has a perfect dial, the subdials are perfect, just the R O LEX text could be a little improved. Plus they update their watches all the time, so they can sell you one version after another. Plus it won't be released before the CNY, therefore my claim of the new dial being introduced after the CNY is 10000% correct :D
 

Cheeps

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I am. They have released the 116519 recently and it has a perfect dial, the subdials are perfect, just the R O LEX text could be a little improved. Plus they update their watches all the time, so they can sell you one version after another. Plus it won't be released before the CNY, therefore my claim of the new dial being introduced after the CNY is 10000% correct :D

interesting reasoning.
 

guru

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I am. They have released the 116519 recently and it has a perfect dial, the subdials are perfect, just the R O LEX text could be a little improved. Plus they update their watches all the time, so they can sell you one version after another. Plus it won't be released before the CNY, therefore my claim of the new dial being introduced after the CNY is 10000% correct :D

That is bullshit. The subdials of the 116520 white were 100 % from the beginning, in size and color!


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guru

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Here is a nice picture for the bezel freaks. Both are gen. Found this on google. Left is different then right.

a86d1795a690e0ef3b6dcf00c60f5e5a.jpg



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bill33

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Here is a nice picture for the bezel freaks. Both are gen. Found this on google. Left is different then right.

a86d1795a690e0ef3b6dcf00c60f5e5a.jpg



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I’ve had both, the lighter version is still more deeply engraved than the noob. See below. Both genuine Rolex.

HFxTe.jpg

HFkEK.jpg
 
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Therion666

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That is bullshit. The subdials of the 116520 white were 100 % from the beginning, in size and color!


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I was talking about the 116500. It will get an updated dial. Eventually. This game is all about the updates and versions. I don't think there's plenty of bullshit in my claim. But I can see why you could feel this way.
 
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guru

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I was talking about the 116500. It will get an updated dial. Eventually. This game is all about the updates and versions. I don't think there's plenty of bullshit in my claim. But I can see why you could feel this way.


10000% is a lot of bullshit for me. Now you are talking about 116500, how come? The dials are coming from different makers and until they are not sold, there is no update. They have more dials then movements, that is the problem.


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Therion666

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I have 0 interest in 116520, I've never asked about it or talked about it on this board. The almost perfect 116519 dial made me believe that there's a hope and a big chance that we might finally be looking forward to a 116500 dial with decent subdials. They've only got to a V2 with the 116500 and they are already at V9 with their sub, so I guess they have some work to do to keep the cash flowing their way. But of course you have way more insider knowledge than I do, so I'll step out of this debate and go mind my business elsewhere.
 
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dashindark

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Just bought a noob 116500 and the SELs are not great. Is there any way I can improve it by buying another ARF 904 bracelet?

By the way the watch has a bit high day error. I have not measured myself but the day error would be like more than 10 seconds per day. I don't think this is normal for a super clone 4130 movement.