dom1986
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Noob v9 just appeared
- Thread starter JDM180
- Start date
Hakai
Active Member
- 11/6/18
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1. Near perfect sel exist and can be found along this thread reread it.
2. Opinions split, most would say just look how the watch works, if doesn't loos tootmuch and your okay with it keep it. If it's not go to a watchmaker. Apart from that a full service is often not suggested since for that price u get a new Japanese 2836 and some parts can break anyway in the future. Apart for.finding a good watchmaker who would check your rep.
2. Opinions split, most would say just look how the watch works, if doesn't loos tootmuch and your okay with it keep it. If it's not go to a watchmaker. Apart from that a full service is often not suggested since for that price u get a new Japanese 2836 and some parts can break anyway in the future. Apart for.finding a good watchmaker who would check your rep.
pengo
I'm Pretty Popular
- 11/7/15
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The first sa3135 were not made too well and the supply of spare parts was limited. This was the advantage of the sh3135 and a2836. Ample availability of parts.
Now that noob has saturated the market with sa3135 movements there should be a lot more availability of parts.
As for real life reliability, my sa3135 from my V7 runs about 1 minute fast a month and no problems at all.
If I get the V9, I will install my original movement.
Also, if you want a more accurate rep, you will want the sa3135 or sh3153. The a2836 version has the wrong crown height.
All of of this has been discussed ad nauseam
- 10/6/14
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To the members with a few post counts and asking the same questions. I know this thread has 135 hits but read some. I can quick answer. The SH3135 is amazing. The SA3135 is getting better but not there yet. You should have all movement serviced if you expect a nice long live watch. The A2824 is nice but have seen horror shows out of the box.
You want a watch too wear right out of the box. The ARF 116610LN is the watch that will pass view test but has the A2824. If you want one too upgrade too real using a case or what I call "Grow with you" I would pick the noob V9 3135 and go too town on rolex parts and keep upgrading till it lis all real but case. Good? LOL. Now spend some time reading and learning. Best hobby and amazing outcomes.
You want a watch too wear right out of the box. The ARF 116610LN is the watch that will pass view test but has the A2824. If you want one too upgrade too real using a case or what I call "Grow with you" I would pick the noob V9 3135 and go too town on rolex parts and keep upgrading till it lis all real but case. Good? LOL. Now spend some time reading and learning. Best hobby and amazing outcomes.
So what is this? And why? This is a “sample” QC, not mine or anyone I know, my TD just sent me since we are debating on the “real V9”
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Which TD is this from?
Tigerdragon
Mythical Poster
- 19/10/13
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I would rather not say since he trusted me with his QC pic... Why are you asking? By the way I am on the edge to order an ARF 904 bracelet along with my Noob V9, anyone thinks this might actually work?
So what is this? And why? This is a “sample” QC, not mine or anyone I know, my TD just sent me since we are debating on the “real V9”
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I'm not an expert by any means, but looks like a v8 to me. Lugs are not angled enough and the sel looks totally flush here.
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Maybe or maybe it is the angle of the pic, I remember someone posted his Sub LV and then everyone said it's a V8, later he posted the same watch when he received and everyone was scratching their head asking if it's the same watch.. Anyway let's see! I am going to get a V9, ARF bracelet, SH3135, gen autowind bridge module and genuine insert, crystal, hands, DW. Will come out nicely I suppose!
Not sure if it is still the case but based on my understanding, only Puretime and Chazingtime have the V9 currently? Just wanted to confirm that, it’s fine if you don’t wish to disclose.
I would love to have an ARF bracelet too if my V9 SEL is poor. Can’t confirm on the fit though.
Just curious, do you think a PPM is necessary for the V9 insert?
It is not mine, I just got this from my TD showing that he got 50pcs and are all like this... I cannot say if PPM needed, I will have a genuine insert and can compare the color but I believe it should be left alone, black should be ok. For the LV I would have to see it live as well.
- 10/6/14
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My V9 was fine. I posted pics. I did put the ARF on and I will end up with the real one one the noob 9 Case. They didn't counter sink the tube and it over sticks out. The bezel is not good on the back the ARF look good too the eye but you put my loop on way too deep.
Still think if you want a fake that looks real I would stick with the LN. I stopped ordering LV's. I have one. The bezel is off every time. Not just engraving the color green. The dial BP ha the best and it would fail to go dark and sunburst all angles. While I see the pics above and it looks good. But the second you put it next too a real one trust me. You will see problems.
I have too say one thing about this whole SEL thing. Who here owns a real 6 dig or even a 5 dig with real sel and wears it more than a desk with a long sleeve covering it? I have owned 16610 in 2000 16613 in 2003 I was a detective working. I beat the crap out of my watches. I still do. I build them and I wear them. I understand that some of them are raised up. That TD LV is bad. But it is not a Hulk. It is a rep of a Hulk. My V9 is good. I will put the ARF on again and take a pic this time. The ARF looked fine too. But understand that MY V9 you see the pics the SEL are nice. So if the SEL on my ARF are good too it might not look like that on yours. My real 97200 I was going too put the ARF claps on it but I am leaving the noob V6S just because it is more time correct for my dial and also I am donating the ARF too the Raffle coming up.
But the noob case is going too be my new 116610LN. I am just packed with stuff and I cant build it as fast as I want. I am trying to finish a nice GMT this week too. But what each of us need too do is evaluate our watches and look at the pictures and if you want it say yes. If not say no. We always have the options to get work done not the case and the band to make it more Rolex like. But if you want it to be 100% rolex you need too buy a Rolex. Especially with the LV. It has been how long. I have looked at my history in pictures and when I first started here I got my first ceramic LV and saw the real one at a boarding school reunion and mine screamed fake and I though it was good. I started too follow Pauls comments and ended up building a LV. If it wasn't for Therealgoat and actually it was Smokes watch first. Real rolex band V6S clasp and Pauls V6S case. That I made into my LN and my real LV case I swatched all the real LV are now on the LV case. So are the SEL lower than the one above from the TD pic. Yes. Is my case over $2000? Yes is my band over $1500 yes. Understand I am so not trying too be a jerk, just trying to bring people down from thinking that any rep is real. We try to make them look and pass and yea lots of amazing work going on in China. These are amazing watches. But they are $400-$500. They are 904 steel. Date wheels need too go on the noob. My crystal hight is off on the noob I just pressed in a new crystal from rolex. It came out shitty. I messed up my real crystal ring and tried too grind down a noob and cut the gasket. So I will try again or locate a new crystal ring.
Flat out the noob clasp feels better the ARF looks better. The whole band not he noob feels more Rolex feel of a 97200. I have extra set of new clicks and I have seen then on ebay. That is where I got mine still sealed. But I have 3 sets all together so I will make a sales thread and sell them for what ever I paid on ebay. I am hoping that handles the cheapness of the noob. Noob has the identical clicks they had as far as I can remember. Feels OK but not Rolex quality. I think a combo of the real crystal ring, real bezel and fins of the bezel and the slightly taller clicks make a snapper bezel. Will the average person 95% of people even know? No. It is the color of the LV and the engraving color. Noob doesn't have it on the LN. ARF does have the color but font is deep. We can pick them all apart. If I got ether of them in hand I will tell with the crystal and date wheel and bezel and clasp of the noob that it is fake. Unless rolex over buffed the center of the inside of the clasp where is shines like a mirror. I own a polished interior and look like at the ARF clasp. But feel not there. Looks yes. Right engraving color. But now if I got that in my hands. Looks good, feels a different and I go to adjust the time and hands go opposite. Fake.
But who its taking these off and giving them too people? One person asked me so far too see my watch. I might had posted it here. I was in Long Island with my brother and had my hulk on. The sales guy was a huge drama person. Asked if he could see it he had been there almost a year and never saw one. He put gloves on. Told me it was beautiful and gave it back. He just looked. Didn't check the movement. I asked him too feel the click because It is all real and it feels snappy and he gave it to the guy in the booth and he said feels perfect and it will break and get better every time. That was bull. I have it for awhile and no difference. Feels nice.
But we have a lot of hits and I love the feed back but we have options with the noob. Case work and band work will work or changing of the band will work. A real band lines up great and so does my noob V9. Typed too much. People going to fall asleep. I will take ARF pic later today. But one more time my 9 is good.
Still think if you want a fake that looks real I would stick with the LN. I stopped ordering LV's. I have one. The bezel is off every time. Not just engraving the color green. The dial BP ha the best and it would fail to go dark and sunburst all angles. While I see the pics above and it looks good. But the second you put it next too a real one trust me. You will see problems.
I have too say one thing about this whole SEL thing. Who here owns a real 6 dig or even a 5 dig with real sel and wears it more than a desk with a long sleeve covering it? I have owned 16610 in 2000 16613 in 2003 I was a detective working. I beat the crap out of my watches. I still do. I build them and I wear them. I understand that some of them are raised up. That TD LV is bad. But it is not a Hulk. It is a rep of a Hulk. My V9 is good. I will put the ARF on again and take a pic this time. The ARF looked fine too. But understand that MY V9 you see the pics the SEL are nice. So if the SEL on my ARF are good too it might not look like that on yours. My real 97200 I was going too put the ARF claps on it but I am leaving the noob V6S just because it is more time correct for my dial and also I am donating the ARF too the Raffle coming up.
But the noob case is going too be my new 116610LN. I am just packed with stuff and I cant build it as fast as I want. I am trying to finish a nice GMT this week too. But what each of us need too do is evaluate our watches and look at the pictures and if you want it say yes. If not say no. We always have the options to get work done not the case and the band to make it more Rolex like. But if you want it to be 100% rolex you need too buy a Rolex. Especially with the LV. It has been how long. I have looked at my history in pictures and when I first started here I got my first ceramic LV and saw the real one at a boarding school reunion and mine screamed fake and I though it was good. I started too follow Pauls comments and ended up building a LV. If it wasn't for Therealgoat and actually it was Smokes watch first. Real rolex band V6S clasp and Pauls V6S case. That I made into my LN and my real LV case I swatched all the real LV are now on the LV case. So are the SEL lower than the one above from the TD pic. Yes. Is my case over $2000? Yes is my band over $1500 yes. Understand I am so not trying too be a jerk, just trying to bring people down from thinking that any rep is real. We try to make them look and pass and yea lots of amazing work going on in China. These are amazing watches. But they are $400-$500. They are 904 steel. Date wheels need too go on the noob. My crystal hight is off on the noob I just pressed in a new crystal from rolex. It came out shitty. I messed up my real crystal ring and tried too grind down a noob and cut the gasket. So I will try again or locate a new crystal ring.
Flat out the noob clasp feels better the ARF looks better. The whole band not he noob feels more Rolex feel of a 97200. I have extra set of new clicks and I have seen then on ebay. That is where I got mine still sealed. But I have 3 sets all together so I will make a sales thread and sell them for what ever I paid on ebay. I am hoping that handles the cheapness of the noob. Noob has the identical clicks they had as far as I can remember. Feels OK but not Rolex quality. I think a combo of the real crystal ring, real bezel and fins of the bezel and the slightly taller clicks make a snapper bezel. Will the average person 95% of people even know? No. It is the color of the LV and the engraving color. Noob doesn't have it on the LN. ARF does have the color but font is deep. We can pick them all apart. If I got ether of them in hand I will tell with the crystal and date wheel and bezel and clasp of the noob that it is fake. Unless rolex over buffed the center of the inside of the clasp where is shines like a mirror. I own a polished interior and look like at the ARF clasp. But feel not there. Looks yes. Right engraving color. But now if I got that in my hands. Looks good, feels a different and I go to adjust the time and hands go opposite. Fake.
But who its taking these off and giving them too people? One person asked me so far too see my watch. I might had posted it here. I was in Long Island with my brother and had my hulk on. The sales guy was a huge drama person. Asked if he could see it he had been there almost a year and never saw one. He put gloves on. Told me it was beautiful and gave it back. He just looked. Didn't check the movement. I asked him too feel the click because It is all real and it feels snappy and he gave it to the guy in the booth and he said feels perfect and it will break and get better every time. That was bull. I have it for awhile and no difference. Feels nice.
But we have a lot of hits and I love the feed back but we have options with the noob. Case work and band work will work or changing of the band will work. A real band lines up great and so does my noob V9. Typed too much. People going to fall asleep. I will take ARF pic later today. But one more time my 9 is good.
hey guys. im thinking to change my v9 hands to gen one. i’ve searched the forum already and not find anyone selling gen hands. do u guys hv any recommend? thanks
On my V9 the solid end links are perfect...perfectly flush on top. Obviously that's not how the genuine end links are relative to the top of the lugs, but it looks kinda good
And unless someone knows that the links aren't supposed to be flush that person will think that, in this regard, the watch is perfect because it is perfect (perfectly wrong). The colors of the bezel and dial, and the sunburst effect of the dial, on the V9 are gorgeous. And they change constantly (in different lighting). I've not owned a genuine Hulk so I can't say anything definitive about the color or sunburst difference, but I'm getting the feeling that you'd have to really experience a genuine Hulk, for days on your wrist, and then go back to the V9 before you'd notice a substantial difference between the two. Or have them both in your hand at the same time. I've looked at hundreds of pictures and videos online and I feel like I've seen all of the looks from the V9 that I see in pictures and videos of the genuine...they just probably don't all happen in the exact same lighting that they'd happen under with the genuine.
All just my opinion and I could be wrong but if so ignorance is bliss.