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The Ultimate Rolex Reference Guide by Bonesy

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QueTip

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I have taken all of Bonesy's threads that were stickied and put them in one huge order. This way, the stickies will mess up the appearance less and it will be more sorted.
If you have anything to add to these threads, want to improve them, send me a PM and I will edit these.
 
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QueTip

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yFR0y.gif

*Picture credit AskMeAgain*

INTRODUCTION - Rolex Replicas 101






Welcome to Rolex Replicas 101, where we will take you through your first steps in understanding Rolex replicas. We will discuss some of the abbreviations that you will come across as well as some basics of cost vs. quality. You will find very quickly that there is a broad spectrum of accuracy in all different Rolex replicas.

The questions that we hear most often are;
  • Who has the best sub?
  • Can someone help me find the best version of this Rolex?
  • How do I find BK or TC?
  • What is the difference between Swiss or Clone movement?
  • Should I buy a 21j or 2836 version?
  • Is this a good dealer to buy from??

If this is your first time visiting the forum then I suggest that you start here (New Members Area).
Within here you can find Main Forum - General Discussion and Forum info
And of course a list of all our Trusted Dealers - Wanna buy a watch? CLICK HERE!.



UKwZv.jpg




~ WIKI Directory ~

Rolex Daytona

Rolex Yacht-Master I & II

Rolex Datejust I & II + Turn-O-Graph

Rolex Day-Date I & II


Rolex Explorer I & II

Rolex Milgauss


GMT Master I & II

Rolex DSSD

Rolex SeaDweller


Rolex Submariner

Rolex & Tudor Vintage Guide

ABBREVIATIONS - Glossary of terms

IMPORTANT NOTE: If you try to search the forum using the standard search tool you will not be able to search for abbreviations or words shorter than four letters. This means that searching for 'TC' or 'WM9' will yield no results.

Solution: Scroll to the bottom of your screen, change the style of the forum to VB Standard. Scroll again to the bottom of the screen and there is now a Google search bar. You can use this to search for shorter words.

Forum Terms & Abbreviations
*Credit Fakemaster
  • AR - Anti-reflective: denoting a chemical coating on the crystal (or cyclops) that reduces glare and reflections.
  • Bezel Insert - Aluminium or Ceramic ring installed in the bezel
  • BK (BKLM) - BKLM1234 is a low volume dealer who supplies modified Noobfactory and TW (Taiwan) case sets
  • BP - BP factory, or Big Pilot factory produces Ceramic submariners and DSSD with excellent quality.
  • CG - Crownguards; protect the crown from damage
  • Clark - Supplier of aftermarket Rolex crystals and parts (Clark Watch Parts eBay store)
  • Click Spring - Small ratchet spring installed underneath a bezel to provide single or dual way rotation
  • CP - Canon Pin/Pinion; portion of watch mechanism that connects the hands to the movement.
  • Cyclops - Magnifying lens attached to the crystal; genuine magnification = 2.5x
  • DW - Datewheel
  • DWO - Datewheel overlay; a printed overlay attached to the regular datewheel to give correct alignment or font
  • Easylink - Clasp found on GMTIIc, Explorer I 39mm, Milguass and Daytona
  • End-Link - Portion of the bracelet that connects to the case; sometimes hollow, sometimes solid
  • Fliplock - Clasp found on Submariner 16610 and other older models
  • Franken - Franken watches are those with additional genuine parts added, ie Crown/Crystal/Dial
  • GMT - In reference to Explorer II, GMT I & II with the fourth hand running round face once every 24 hours.
  • Glidelock - Clasp on DSSD and Ceramic Submariner
  • Keyless Works - Gearing that allows you to set the time and date via the crown
  • LEC - Laser Etched Crown: small Rolex crown visible at the 6 o'clock position of the sapphire crystal
  • Mid-Link - Centre section of the bracelet; sometimes hollow sometimes solid
  • Noobfactory - One of the major Rolex building factories, credited also with very accurate Panerai
  • Pearl - Luminous 'dot' installed in some Rolex bezel inserts
  • QC - Quality Control (The purpose of QC pictures)
  • Rehaut - The portion of case visible between the dial and the crystal, in newer models this is engraved
  • Sean - AKA ETASwiss, small volume high end case sets (no longer in production)
  • SEL - Solid End Links; portion of the bracelet that connects to the case
  • SS - Stainless Steel
  • Sternkreuz - Supplier of aftermarket Rolex crystals and parts
  • TC - TC is a low-volume dealer supplying high end Submariner and Yacht-Master case sets (no longer in production)
  • WM9 - High accuracy pieces with ability to take gen parts (no longer in production)


~ Who are all these dealers? ~

Quite often on the forum you will hear dealers referred to by their names or shortened names. This can sometimes be confusing for new people to the forum so here's a list of the ones that you will hear most frequently (including some modders).​
  • Shorthand name - Username - Forum Section
  • Andrew - Not on RWI - Not on RWI - aka Cartel
  • Angus - Puretime - PureTime Watches International
  • BK - BKLM1234 - BK's Repertorium
  • Jackson - jacksontse_MT - Jackson Tse
  • Josh - Not on RWI - Not on RWI - aka Cartel
  • Reg - Narikaa - narikaa
  • River - River - River
  • Ryan - ryanwayer - InTime Watches
  • Sead -Sead1999 - Supermirrors
  • Stan - WackoBirdKeeper - WBK Time
  • Tony - Asian7750 - Asian7750
  • Toro - ToroBravo - Toro Bravo
  • MOVEMENTS - Basic Concepts
  • ~ 21j (DG2813 / DG4813 / DG2812 / DG4803) ~
    Ofrei Chinese Movements List

    TyCH9.png



    The most basic of all movements to be found in Rolex Replicas. This is a cheap, workhorse movement. Works at low beat (21,600 bph) as opposed to high beat movements (2836 etc). Can be replaced for as little as $10-30 USD.

    pT0Rr.png


    The DG4813 is a variation that runs at high beat. This is not a direct drop in replacement due to the canon pinion height and would need to be modified to work with most Rolex replicas. These were available for a short period of time in some Rolex replicas but seem to have been out of production for a while. You can still purchase a DG4813 from regular supply companies (CousinsUK/Ofrei) but would need to do a canon pinion swap with a DG2813 with high canon pins.


    cZICS.png


    The DG3804 is a true functioning GMT movement working at low beat and is accurate for hand stack and very close to the correct beat rate for older GMT movement Rolex watches.

    X1OYC.png


    This is the variation most likely seen in the DayDate replicas and is, as above, low beat but with day as well as date function.

    ~ Asian Clone (2836 / 2824) ~

    Asian 2824 Clone

    irf0z.jpg


    High beat movement based on the ETA 2824. Reliable high beat movement.

    Asian 2836 Clone

    NWELI.jpg


    High beat movement based on the ETA 2836 with day and date functions. Primary choice for most Rolex replicas.


    Asian "Superclone" (2836 / 2824)



    ~ A3135 Clone ~

    ytNJG.jpg

    *Picture credit PureTimeWatches*

    This is a clone movement that has been 'dressed' up to look like a Rolex 3135 movement. It is considered to be less reliable than the standard clone movement as it has been modified beyond the original specifications. The screw holding the rotor in place is notoriously weak. Please read this thread for more information

    ~ A3156 Clone ~

    LPRA8.jpg


    The same stipulations apply to the A3156 Clone movement as do the A3135 movement. This is a clone ETA2836 that has been made to emulate the 3156 movement found in the Rolex Day-Date watches.


    ~ A3131 Clone ~

    qAImT.jpg


    As above this is the non-date version of the tarted up clone movements. You can find this movement in the Explorer I and Milgauss replicas.

    ~ A3187 Clone ~

    4vTFRm.png


    This is the GMT movement that you will find in some of the new Explorer II 42mm 216570 replicas. I have not seen this movement in any other replicas so far.

    ~ SA3135 Clone ~

    nKCge.jpg

    *Picture credit PureTimeWatches*

    XW8hZ.jpg

    *Picture credit 1234_Cool_Uncle*

    This SA3135 movement was originally described as being a proper clone of the 3135 Rolex movement. And in some ways it is. The V1 of this movement is notorious for having a weak stem. This has possibly been remedied in V2. There is also a second version out there which is slightly different. Both are reported to take gen dial, hands, and datewheels but information is light on the ground. There is also another version that TC reported on being in production which due to privacy reasons he has decided to withhold the publishing of pictures.


    ~ A7750 (Seconds at 6 / Second at 9) ~

    5f1XS.jpg

    *Picture credit PureTimeWatches*

    This movement is found in the Daytona replicas currently available. It comes in two variations. With running seconds at 9 o'clock and running seconds at 6 o'clock. The seconds at 6 movement is notorious for being unreliable due to the additional gearing needed to transfer the running seconds from 9 to 6. There are new versions out that have 29 jewels and an increase in stability.

    For information on the upgraded version with 29j movement please read this awesome thread by 14060 or 16610?

    The seconds at 9 movement is the native configuration of the 7750 movement and doesn't represent a significant danger of failure. These are present in some replicas representing the Daytona from the period when it used the Zenith El Primero movement.


    ~ Venus 75 / Lemania / ST-19 ~

    26HUA.jpg

    *Picture credit PureTimeWatches*

    This is a bi-compax movement (meaning just two subdials, 7750 has 3). This often means that watches with this movement have a false register that follows the hour hand around the dial. You will find this movement in the vintage Daytona replicas. It is a sturdy and reliable movement with no serious issues. Modifications can be done on the faux subdial to freeze it in place.

    PRICES - How much should I pay?


The bigger question is how much do you have to spend. You can start in the sub $100 range and go all the way up to over $1000 for franken or rare pieces. Here's a rough guide of what you can expect for your money.
~ $1-$99 USD ~






Most sub $100 USD watches are going to be either 21j models or Quartz. These tend to have poor construction, inaccuracies and are at the low end of quality materials. They will generally have mineral glass crystals rather than sapphire. As a result of the lower cost movements in these watches they will tend to be low beat, and generally inaccurate to the genuine Rolex beat rate of 28,800 bph.

If it is a model with complications; Daytona with chronograph, Yachtmaster II with timer etc. Then these are more than likely faux complications. This means that they will not function as per the genuine watch. For example the Daytona which uses the 21j movement (also called Asian Automatic) has sub-dials that will represent the day/date/week and can be moved by the pushers. But it is not a chronograph. See pictures below.
avwj9.jpg
Ds6ls.jpg

*Picture credit Timeshops.net*






Also in this price range are low end replicas of vintage models. Because the 21j movement is close in beat rate to the original movements they are preferred. It is also a good base for customising or 'vintaging' an older Rolex model.
  • 21j or Quartz movement
  • Mineral Glass
  • Innacurate construction
  • Vintage base watches
  • Faux complications
~ $100-$200 ~






Now we are entering the region of good replicas. The higher end 21j models will tail off in this price range and you enter clone movement territory. Once you hit the $150+ range you are almost definitely going to be receiving a watch fitted with a clone movement. Either a 2824 or a 2836 variation. It is unlikely that you will find an A7750 movement in this price range without some sort of dealer discount. In combination with better movements you will likely find better construction, sapphire crystal. In addition to this they will generally be more accurate than the cheaper models.
  • High end 21j / Swiss Quartz
  • Clone movements
  • High beat movements
  • Sapphire crystals
  • Better and more accurate construction
  • Decent lume (but generally not superlume)
sahxo.jpg

*Picture credit Timeshops.net*

~ $200-$350 ~






This is the price range where it starts to get a bit more interesting. How much more watch are you getting for that extra $250 over the sub $99 range? Well at the lower end of this price range you are getting watches with clone movements, sapphire crystals, much better accuracy to genuine watches and generally better construction. Creeping into this price range is also the watches with claimed 'super-lume'.

You will also find the A7750 / Lemania movement watches in this price range with working chronograph functions. At the higher range you are getting Swiss (or Superclone) movements and also some of the A3135 movements.
  • Clone / Swiss Movements
  • A7750 / Lemania Movements
  • Working Chronographs
  • A3135 Movements
  • Sapphire crystals
  • More accurate case set
  • Superlume

For example, here is the top end of the budget at $348. This Seadweller 16600 comes both superlumed and with the A3135 movement as well as the usual upgrades of sapphire crystal and a much better case construction.
zmC9A.jpg

*Picture credit PureTimeWatches*

~ $350-$500 ~






So now we are getting into the realms of expensive replicas. This is where you find the likes of A3135/SA3135 movements, NOS SW220 and ETA movements bought in by smaller specialised dealers. You start to see the offerings from BKLM entering the picture at around the $370 mark for his Explorer II's up towards the modified ceramic noobfactory submariners at around $420.

All of the watches in this price range start to boast the same level of quality. Be it accuracy of construction to the genuine watches, or improved movements (guaranteed Swiss from BKLM) to upgraded QC control. This really is the higher end of unmodified Rolex replicas and the start of either modified or "Boutique" dealer replica offerings.
~ $500 upwards! ~






From here on the sky is the limit. You stop getting standard dealer offerings at this level and start entering the world of custom work, franken pieces, rare and discontinued pieces and the small offerings from "Boutique" dealers (TC, Sean, and BKLM).
Some frequently asked questions

How do I tell Rolex crowns apart?

Please visit this great thread for lots more information on the subject:

Rolex Crowns - How do you tell which is which? by justlounging

Ec3Jsvm.jpg


How do I use a GMT watch?

"Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) is a time system originally referring to mean solar time at the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London, which later became adopted as a global time standard."

Greenwich Mean Time
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


Having a GMT hand on a watch DOES NOT mean that you have to leave it indicating the time in the UK. It just means that it has the ability to track a second time zone should you wish. The fourth hand on the Explorer II and GMT replicas functions as an hour hand that rotates round the dial once every 24 hours. So many people make using and setting a GMT hand a complicated procedure when it really isn't.

As a general note for ALL automatic watches: do NOT change the date or GMT hand between 10pm and 2am. This is when the date change mechanism is starting to engage to automatically change the date. Adjusting the date or GMT hand during this time risks damaging the date change mechanism.

On a GMT movement you have 4 positions to the crown.

1: Screwed on to the crown tube
2: Unwind crown until free from tube - winding position
3: Pull out 1 stop - date and GMT hand setting position
4: Pull out 2 stop - time setting position

KOnDD.jpg


In position 2 winding clockwise will wind the mainspring of the watch. Counter-clockwise does nothing.

In position 3 winding clockwise will advance the date, winding counter-clockwise will turn the GMT hand.

In position 4 winding clockwise will turn the hands backwards, winding counter-clockwise will advance the time.

You can use the 24 hour hand in two ways. Firstly you can set it to your home time zone. Whilst like this you can read the 24 hour clock from the bezel. The GMT hand will point to the 24 hour time. So if it says '10' it's 10am. If it points to '16' it is 4pm.

Secondly you can move the GMT forward or backwards in relation to your own timezone. This way you can track any other time zone in the world either +12 hours or -12 hours.

CbzUP.jpg


Thanks to gioarmani7428 for this useful information:

Not many people know that on a GMT bezel, the wearer can use the 24-hour dial for approximate navigation anywhere between the Tropic of Cancer and the Arctic Polar Circle. But, both the 12 and the 24 hour hand must be synchronized to display local time.

Method 1: When laid horizontally, the dial will head North if the 24 hour hand is pointed towards the sun.

z1GSK.jpg


Method 2: If the 12 hour hand is pointed at the sun, the 24 hour hand will point North.

The margin of error directly depends on the difference between local official time and actual local solar time, which is why you have to be between the Tropic of Cancer & the Arctic Polar Circle. But one doesn't need to get too much in the technical details for approximate North, East, South, West navigation.


What is the difference between a 'Chronometer' and a 'Chronograph'?

This is a very common question since people often confuse the two. While their names may sound similar, these terms have very little in common.

Chronometer is the term used to describe a highly-precise timepiece which, after rigorous testing, has received an official timing certificate from the official Swiss timing bureau Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres (COSC). Thus, it is a rating or accolade given for the watch's accuracy.

A chronograph on the other hand is a timepiece that, in addition to the normal time telling functions, also performs a seperate time measuring function such as a stop watch -- with a seperate seconds hand which can be started, stopped and reset to zero, via push-buttons on the side of the case. Please do not confuse 'chronographs' with 'complications' (which are described below). While all chronographs can be considered complications, not all complications are in fact chronographs.

What do 'complications' mean when referring to a wristwatch?

A complication is described as any additional function the wristwatch performs beyond basic time telling (i.e. hour, minute and second). A common example of wristwatch complications are calendar models which display the day/date. Additional complications include chronograph models, whereas the watch performs like a basic "stop watch" (as described above). Other complications worth mentioning are: second time zone, moonphase and alarms.

What does the "T" designation at the bottom of the dial mean?

This refers to the chemical used on the hands and hour markers, which causes them to illuminate. Around 1950, watchmakers started using Tritium as their luminous material, and began indicating the amount of that radioactive material with a designation at the bottom of the dial (i.e. T SWISS T or SWISS T < 25). Around 1998, watchmakers changed the designation to read SWISS or SWISS MADE, when they replaced the Tritium with LumiNova (an organic, non-radioactive chemical), as their source of luminescence.

T SWISS MADE T indicates that the radioactive material Tritium is present on the wristwatch. The amount of radioactive material emitted is limited to a maximum of 25 milliCurie.

SWISS T < 25 more specifically indicates that the wristwatch emits an amount of Tritium that is less than the 25 milliCurie limit.

SWISS T 25 indicates that the wristwatch emits the maximum allowable amount of Tritium (i.e. a full 25 milliCurie).

SWISS (or) SWISS MADE on wristwatches produced after (around) 1998, indicates the presence of LumiNova as the luminous material. (Please Note: "SWISS" or "SWISS MADE" was also the indication on wristwatches produced prior to the 1950s, when Radium was used as the luminous material. However, at that time "SWISS" or "SWISS MADE" simply indicated that the watch was, in fact, made in Switzerland.

Why is the Day-Date sometimes called a "President"?

Actually, Rolex has never referred to the Day-Date watch as a "President". However, the BRACELET we are used to seeing on the Day-Date is known as a President, since one was fitted to President Dwight D. Eisenhower's watch during a service overhaul in 1956 -- the same year the Day-Date was first introduced.

And as a little known trivia fact, President Eisenhower's watch wasn't even a Day-Date... it was an 18kt Datejust given to him by Rolex in 1946 to celebrate the WWII victory -- and Winston Churchill was also given one at the same time.

What kind of Stainless Steel does Rolex use in their watch cases?


While most high-end watch companies utilize 1.4435 (or 316L) Stainless Steel, Rolex uses 1.4439 (or 904L) Stainless Steel. While they both have the same grade of hardness, 904L has a slighytly higher nickel discharge, and thus a slightly higher resistance to corrosion. 904L is mainly used in industry applications handling chlorides, sulfer dioxide gas or other toxic materials. While this may sound like overkill for use with wristwatches, it's just another exaple of over'engineering on the part of Rolex where only the best will do.

What is Rolesor?

This is a Rolex term to indicate the case/bracelet configuration of Stainless Steel and Gold.

What is Rolesium?

This is a Rolex term to indicate the case/bracelet configuration of Stainless Steel and Platinum.

Is there anything I can do to make my watch run a few seconds fast/slow each day?

If your watch is off a few seconds per day (fast or slow) you can regulate it depending on the position you leave the watch at night when you're not wearing it, as follows:

By leaving the watch's dial (or face) up can cause it to gain (or run fast) up to a few seconds per day. On the other hand, by leaving the watch's dial (or face) down can cause it to lose (or run slow) upto a few seconds per day.

What is an SEL?

Solid End Links (or SEL) refers to the final link on select modern Rolex bracelets. On these SEL bracelets, the final link is made from a solid piece of metal where the bracelet attaches to the watch's case (or head). This new design makes for a stronger bracelet and a cleaner look. On older bracelets, they utilized a hollow end piece to attach the bracelet to the watch's case

What is a "Nipple Dial"?

This is a variation of the regular dial markers seen on vintage Submariners and GMTs. See the picture below for reference.

oLg70.jpg


What is a "Serti Dial"?

The French (or Swiss) word 'Serti' translates as 'inset'. A Diamond or other gem-set dial is thus described in the Rolex catalogue as 'Cadran Serti', meaning, inset dial.

Q5b65.jpg
 
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QueTip

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What Do The Numbers Mean... Model numbers explained

Rolex model numbers currently four, five or six digits long. The first two or three describes the type of watch. If the watch has five digits, the second from the last describes (some exceptions) the type of bezel and the last describes the material that the watch is made from.

Typically the reference number only changes when major changes are introduced to the watch. If only minor changes are made a "1" is added to the beginning of the old reference. So in the early 2000s when the 14270 Explorer was remodeled only slightly it became the 114270. Major changes such as the introduction of a larger case or major cosmetic differences will result in a totally new reference number all together.
Type of Watch:

Oyster Perpetual - 10, 140, 142
Airking - 55 & 140
Date - 15 & 150
Datejust - 16 & 162
Daytona Manual Wind - 62
Daytona Cosmograph - 165, 1165
Explorer II - 165
Sea Dweller - 16 & 166
Submariner - 16, 166 & 168
Submariner (no date) - 55 & 140
GMT Master - 16, 65, 167
GMT Master II - 167, 1167
Oysterquartz Datejust - 170
Oysterquartz Day-Date - 190
Day-Date (President) - 65, 66, 18, 180, 182 & 183
Yachtmaster - 166, 686 & 696
Midsize Oyster Perp DJ - 68, 682
Ladies Oyster Perpetual - 67, 671, 672
Ladies Date - 65, 69, 691 & 692
Ladies Datejust - 65, 69, 691 & 692

Type of Bezel (does not include Sports/Professional models)

0 = Smooth/Domed
1 = Engine Turned
2 = Engraved
3 = Fluted
4 = Bark
5 = Pyramid (Not Used)
6 = Turn-O-Graph
7 = Various
8 = Special (Not Currently Used)
9 = Open (Not Currently Used)

Type of Material...

0 = Stainless Steel
1 = Yellow gold Placor (Tudor)
22 = Stainless steel and Platinum (Yachtmaster)
3 = Stainless Steel and 18k Yellow gold (Yellow Rolesor)
4 = Stainless Steel and 18k White gold (White Rolesor)
5 = Gold Shell (No Longer Used)
6 = Platinum
7 = 14k Yellow gold (No Longer Used)
8 = 18k Yellow gold
9 = 18k White gold

What clasp should my Rolex have?

Note: You can change the older style fliplock clasp for the newer Glidelock clasp on most Rolex replicas without issue.

You can also see all the current bracelet codes here:

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Historical Timeline and Listing of Technical Achievement



1905 Founding of “Wilsdorf & Davis.” A distribution company of watchcases and other horological items headquartered in London.

1908 Hans Wilsdorf registers the Rolex trademark located at La Chaux-de Fonds, later moving to Bienne.

1910 Rolex obtains the first Official Swiss Chronometer certificate

1914 Rolex obtains a Class “A” certificate, Kew Observatory in English as the first wristwatch to outperform a pocket watch.

1919 Hans Wilsdorf moves the company office to 18 Rue du Marche, Geneva and establishes the manufacturing company, Montres Rolex S.A.

1926 Rolex patents the screw-down crown, and creates the oyster case with a screw down caseback and bezel.

1927 Mercedes Gleitze swims across the English Channel wearing a Rolex Oyster. The swim lasted 15 ¼ hours. Serial Numbers Engraved On Oyster Case

1928 Rolex obtains a First Class Certificate from the Geneva Astronomical Observatory, the first ever awarded for a 6 ¾” wrist watch.

1931 Rolex invents and patents the “Perpetual Automatic Rotary Winding Mechanism.”

1935 Sir Malcom Campbell breaks the world automobile speed record (300 MPH) wearing a Rolex wristwatch

1938 Rolex introduces the "bubble back"

1939 Rolex introduces the fist chronograph with 30-minute and 12 hours totalizers.

1945 Rolex introduces the DateJust, the first automatic and water wristwatch chronometer. Rolex also introduces the Jubilee bracelet.

1947 Rolex introduces the waterproof chronograph with 12-hour totalizer and triple date. Also releases the Oyster bracelet.

1947 Chuck Yeager breaks the “Sound Barrier” in a Bell X-1 wearing a Rolex Oyster, the same one he had worn throughout his deployment in WWII.

1950 Rolex introduces the Turn-O-Graph, the first Rolex with a rotating bezel and the precursor to the Submariner. Introduces the signature Mercedes hands.

1953 Rolex introduces the Submariner, the first automatic diver’s wristwatch water-resistant to 100 meters.

1953 On May 29, Rolex rose to 29,035 ft above sea level on the wrist of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay

1954 Rolex introduces the Submariner Ref. 6200, water-resistant to 200 meters. Rolex introduces the GMT-Master, an automatic chronometer with a 24 hour hand for aircraft pilots. Also debuted the date cyclops on the watch crystal as well as the ladies Oyster Perpetual.

1956 Rolex introduces the Day-Date model, first wristwatch to spell the day of the week as well as the numeric date. Also included is the President bracelet.

1957 Rolex patents a new Microstella regulated balance in Beryllium

1959 Rolex introduces the Submariner Ref 5512 water resistant to 200 meters complete with crownguards for the first time.

1960 Rolex straps a specially designed Deep Sea to the bathyscaphe Trieste which descended 10,916 meters to the bottom of the Mariana Trench being the first watch to reach such a depth.

1960 Hans Wilsdorf passes away on July 6, leaving Rolex to appointees stated in the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation.

1961 Rolex launches the first Oyster Cosmograph series ref. 6239

1962 Rolex launches the Cosmograph Daytona

1963 Andre J. Heiniger leads Rolex to 1992, when his son Patrick takes over.

1964 Rolex patents a pressure-proof screw-down push button for chronographs

1967 Rolex, in conjunction with Comex , a French diving company, releases the Sea Dweller guaranteed water-resistant to a depth of 610 meters.

1967 Pete Knight breaks Mach 6.72 (4,534 MPH) in an X-15 aircraft wearing a GMT-Master; a record that still stands today.

1969 Rolex releases a Submariner with date and water resistant to 200 meters.

1970 Rolex starts using synthetic sapphire crystals with the introduction of the all gold OysterQuartz beta ref 5100. Rolex started rolling out sapphire crystals throughout the 70’s and 80’s. By 1989, all Rolex watches were fitted with sapphire crystals.

1971 Rolex releases Reference 1655, the first Explorer II with the solid steel 24 hour bezel famous orange 24 hour hand, and also the first Sea Dweller.

1972 Introduction of the first hacking movement.

1977 First use of the quick set date feature, release of the Oyster-Quartz.

1978 Conquest of Mt. Everest without oxygen by Reinhold Messner, who wore an OysterQuartz

1980 Release of the Sea Dweller 4000.

1982 Rolex redesigns the GMT Master II and allows timing in three different time zones rather than two by allowing an independently set 12-hour hand.

1984 Rolex updates the Explorer II to reference number 16550 to resemble other successful selling models, the Submariner and GMT II. The 16550 was available in either white or black dial and shared the same independent 12 hour hand as the GMT Master II.

1985 Rolex surpasses more than 4 million movements officially awarded the “Chronometer” title.

1986 Guided by only a sextant and their Rolex chronometers, Will Steger and Paul Schurke lead the first expedition without resupply to reach the North Pole

1987 Rolex starts using 904L stainless steel in its Sub Date 168000 that uses a high Nickel and Molybdenum content to help prevent pitting between the caseback and the case that results in salt water seeping into the threads. Rolex previously used 316L Steel. Rolex used a mixture of 316L in its bracelets and cases until the mid-2000’s when the DeepSea was made exclusively with 904L steel. Modern Rolex stainless models introduced later than 2011 use 904L in the bracelet, case, clasp, and caseback.

1988 Rolex redesigns and releases the new Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Chronometer “Daytona" using the modified Zenith El Primero Movement.

1988 Rolex purchases its watchband supplier РGay Fr̬res

1992 Patrick Heiniger takes the reins from his father leading Rolex until December 17, 2008. Heiniger, a lawyer by training specialized in intellectual property and international law. Also released is the Yacht-Master.

1996 Rolex manufactures more official Swiss Chronometers than all other manufacturers combined.

1998 Introduction of the Solid End Link (SEL)

1999 Start using Luminova in favour of Tritium.

2000 Roles launches the new Oyster Perpetual Chronometer Cosmograph “Daytona” with Rolex’s in-house movement, the 4130 with 72 hours power reserve.

2001 Introduction of the Laser Etched Crown (LES) on the sapphire crystals.

2003 In celebration of 50 years of the Submariner releases the Anniversary 16610 LV with green bezel.

2007 Rolex re-releases the Milgauss, a newly redesigned watch from a old classic that is resistant to magnetic fields up to 1000 gauss; Rolex releases the Yacht-Master II, the first yachting watch with a programmable countdown feature and memory utilizing side pushers and the bezel.

2008 Launch of the new GMT-Master II, with a new 3186 movement, Paracrom hairspring, and ceramic bezel.

2008 Rolex introduces the new Deep Sea SeaDweller water resistant to 3,900 meters.

2008 Patrick Heiniger suddenly resigns from his position, two days after Rolex today denying a L’Agefi report that the company lost 1 billion Swiss francs ($900 million) invested with Bernard Madoff, who was later convicted of the largest financial fraud in U.S. history. Bruno Meier, Rolex’s CFO takes over as CEO.

2008 Rolex employs over 4000 people and is estimated to be worth over 5 billion dollars.

2010 Rolex releases the updated 116610 LN Submariner with ceramic bezel

2011 Rolex names a new CEO, Gian Riccardo Marini, formerly Rolex Italy SpA’s chief.

2012 On March 26, Rolex revisits the Mariana Trench with an experimental DeepSea Challenge watch strapped to the outside of James Cameron’s vessel. The watch survived the 2.5 hour decent, 60 minutes on the trench floor, and the 70 minute ascent back to the surface.
Contributers to this WIKI:

I would like to thank the following people for contacting me and adding to this WIKI page.

AskMeAgain
justloungin
Thinkbachs
iamthestig​

[/CENTER]
 
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CHApZhZ.gif


ROLEX SUBMARINER

~History~


First Submariners. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner went into production in 1953. It was first introduced to the public in the Swiss Watch Fair of 1954 (Ref. 6204 and 6205). It feature a rotating bezel with 5 minute markers, and ushered in a new look for Rolex. In 1954, the distinctive "Mercedes" hands were added to all Submariners. The Submariner look, later adopted by the Rolex GMT Master and Rolex Yatchmaster is one that everyone associates with Rolex. The basic Submariner design is so popular it has become the basis for almost all the divers watches in the world. The Submariner was built for diving. The early Submariners had water resistance ratings of 180 meters (Ref. 62xx). There is some doubt as to whether these early Submariners met their stated ratings.

In 1955, after just two years in production the first Submariner models were replaced by the Ref. 6536 (Small Crown) and 6538 (Large Crown) Submariners, with water resistance ratings of 100 and 200 meters, respectively. The watches featured Rolex's Cal. 1030 movements with improved rotors which could wind the watch rotating while in either direction. The Ref. 6536 and 6538 were later certified as chronometers. The Ref. 6536 was renamed 6536-1 while the 6538 retained its number. In 1958 the Ref. 6536-1 and 6538 were replaced with the Ref. 5508 and 5510 with the same water resistance ratings as their predecessors.

The birth of the modern Submariner. In 1959 Rolex released the Ref. 5512. Submariner and in 1962 released the Ref. 5513 submariner. Both submariners now sported the big crown and had "shoulders" to protect the crown. The difference in reference numbers was that the Ref. 5512 was certified as a chronometer while the Ref. 5513 was not. These watches both had water resistance rating of 200 meters. Unlike the early Submariners, the Ref. 5512 and 5513 had long production lives. The 5512 remained in production for nearly twenty years, until 1978, while the 5513 stayed in production till 1990.

The modern Submariner. In 1989, Rolex released the Ref. 16610 Submariner Date and Ref. 14060 Submariner, which was the first Submariners with movements which generated 28,800 vibrations per hour (vph). Movements in previous models produced 21,600 vph. Notably only the Ref. 16610 Submariners are certified by the COSC as chronometers. The non-date Ref. 14060 are not.

~Movements~

Please see the above link for information on the current movements found in Submariner replicas.

DG2813
DG4813
Asian Clone 2836-2
Asian Superclone 2836-2
ETA 2836-2
SW220 (Sellita)
A3135
SA3135

~Designations~

Several of the Rolex Submariners have designations after their names which relate to the colour of the bezel. These are listed below;

LN - Lunette Noir - Black Bezel
LV - Lunette Verte - Green Bezel
LB - Lunette Bleue - Blue Bezel

Standard Submariners 1977 to 2012

~16800~

Circa 1979 Rolex upped the ante on the date diver with the introduction of the 16800. For the first time Rolex had a diver with a high beat 3xxx movement, quick-set date feature, and a uni-directional ratcheting bezel. Of course the 16800 debuted the sapphire crystal in the diver community increasing the depth rating to 300M. Also known as the "transitional" early versione of the 16800 had a lovely matte tritium dial devoid of white gold surrounds. Latter as Rolex moved to the gloss dials with WGs the 16800 incorporated this change around 1985.

Some feel the 16800 represents the best of both worlds as it displays (in the early versions) the lovely matte dial with the scratch resistance of sapphire and accuracy of the 3xxx movement.

The official bracelet combinations for the 16800;

93150 Bracelet - 501B Hollow End links
93250 Bracelet - Solid End Links

vxdFudg.jpg


~168000~

In the late 80s (circa 1988) Rolex made the next leap in the diver line with the introduction of the reference 168000. This was the first diver to feature 904 stainless as opposed to the 316 used previously. Many feel this was the shortest run diver of all (perhaps 10 months or so) as the reference 16610s 3135 movement was not yet ready for introduction.

Rolex simply boxed the 16800s 3035 movement in the 16610s case and there you are. Many of these examples carry 16800 paperwork for those fortunate enough to find an example with all the bits.

Most 168000's would be seen with a glossy dial with white gold surrounds; a dial which - like the 16800 which also had glossy dial variants - could develop the so called "spider web" effect due to a fault in the paint mixture used back then, causing small spider web looking cracks in the surface of the dial. Naturally, the matte dials did not have that issue.

The official bracelet combinations for the 168000;

93150 Bracelet - 501B/593 Hollow End links
93250 Bracelet - Solid End Links


QXB7psz.jpg


~16610~

There are so many different variations on the 16610 that I cannot possibly collate all that information in one place. What I will do is attempt to break down this sub-section into the most commonly referenced Submariners that we deal with in the replica trade. These can cost anywhere from $60 all the way up to high priced franken pieces costing in excess of $1000.

Model information and characteristics:

Is waterproof to a maximum depth of 300 metres/1000 ft.

Has the Triplock system, featuring a triple gasket system, is identified by three dots on the crown which screws down tightly onto the case tube and against the Oyster case providing another layer of protection.

Has a case made from a solid block of 904L stainless steel or gold. 904L steel is a corrosion-resistant stainless steel alloy. Rolex makes its gold in its own foundry where it can create new alloys and control the quality of the gold.

As a true diving watch, the Submariner utilizes a unidirectional bezel that enables the diver to memorize and follow immersion time. Since the bezel only rotates counterclockwise, the dive time can only become "shorter" in case of accidental bezel movement, thus avoiding the danger of spending too much time underwater.

As of 2007, and more particularly, with the "Z" serial number series, there are no holograms on the casebacks.

More recent models of the Submariner (late 2008) have a distinctive "ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX" and serial number engraved on the "inner bezel" known more correctly as the "Rehaut" (French) or "Flange"(English).

The official bracelet combinations for the 16610;

93150 Bracelet - 501B/593 Hollow End links
93250 Bracelet - Solid End Links

Jer6Y7W.jpg


- Noobfactory 16610 -

As is the case with most of the replica industry there is almost never a concrete answer to any question. The Noobmariner or Noobfactory submariner has become the staple of the forums over the years for a cheap introduction to the 16610 and 16610 LV. Usually supplied with 21j movements these can be had for under $150 shipped and provide excellent quality for the price point. For the sake of a few simple mods these can be made to look very good indeed.

ZESSc2I.jpg



- TC 16610 -

TC is a low volume, high quality (and cost) creator of what is getting close to being the best Submariner replica available. TC has a supporting vendor slot on RWI TC watch parts and also an Independant TC Blogspot.

This watch is getting as close to 1:1 as you can expect. It will take genuine parts including a genuine 3135 movement. This case set is also known as the WM9 V4 due to it coming from the same factory source as the original WM9 watches sold by BKLM1234.

This watch is now up to V5 with upgrades from TC that take this to the next level. A gen spec pearl and insert, upgraded bracelet and clasp, new TC clone 2824 with V3 datewheel overlay.


uvKKgfV.jpg

*Photo credit - LHOOQ*

- TC 16610 Caddell Submariners-

This is probably the culmination of a few years hard work to produce the perfect replica submariner. TC has just released the Caddell Submariners. These are lightly customised versions of his current V5 submariner with subtle modifications like a negative colour datewheel overlay, crystals without cyclops, Yachtmaster red seconds hand, and combinations of the above.


dWMqKyN.jpg

*Picture credit TC*


- Sean 16610 -

Sean (ETAswiss.net) is another low volume, high quality supplier. Some would argue that TC's case set is of better accuracy due to needing very little modding and that the crownguards are especially accurate.

ECF0QzB.jpg

*Picture credit Fidhle007*

- BKLM TW16610 -

The TW Best version sold by BKLM in his section (BK's Repertorium) is technically known as the WM9 V1 case set. In BK's own words;

"This is a gen style 16610 sub, i.e. it has gen construction, allowing it to accept gen crystal and gen bezel assembly. It can also take gen or aftermarket tube without re-drilling and re-tapping the crown hole.

It is basically the same case set as the wm9 v1 sub. I'd like to just call it TW sub or TW 16610. TW stands for Taiwan. That's where the case set is made. The watch is assembled by me and my partner, not by the factory.
"

Cp2ML1Q.jpg

*Picture credit BKLM1234*

- BK16610 Sub (TC/TW parts) -

This is a custom build piece by BKLM using both TC and other aftermarket parts. You can find more details of the watch under BKLM1234's section, or by following this link;

Product Offering: BK 16610 Sub by bklm1234

BK is known for exceptional attention to details as well as a rock solid QC process. His claims for this piece are as follows;

- assemble every watch myself
- put in my own custom DWO
- put in fixed up crystals from the TW sub factory and Clark. Both the TW crystal and Clark crystal often have crooked cyclops. I pop and re-glue the cyclop the best my eyes can tell. BTW, I reserve the freedom to use either the TW stock crystal or Clark crystal.
- put in TW sub insert with pearl modded with epoxy coat
- put in genuine Swiss ETA 2824-2 H4 (high cannon pin)

There has however been a little controversy over at least a few of the mid case crownguards as noted in this 20+ page thread. It's a slightly misleading title as it is also discussing the TC mid case it should be using.

- BKLM WM9 16610 -

The original WM9 models are no longer carried or available. They were supplied to the forum members through BKLM1234 who built/modified and QC'd them prior to sale. There were three versions, V1 (aka TW16610) is still available from BKLM1234 (BK's Repertorium). V2 was built using an undersize ETA 2678 movement with a large spacer ring. Version 3 was produced using ETA 2836 movements.

These are now only available through member to member sales.

For BK's explanation on why he stopped selling the original versions please read this thread; Here's what happened to wm9

8hdxEJa.jpg

*Picture credit BEYER8888*

~16610 LV~

G2EvSEy.jpg


Rolex Submariner 16610LV (Lunette Vert) - The 'true' anniversary Submariner

The original green Submariner (aka 16610LV) was introduced in 2003 as part of Rolex 50 years anniversary of the Rolex Submariner, and underwent many minor changes in the last 7 years (2003-2010). This means that this model Only had a life time of 7 years, much less than that of most regular Rolex models.

The first models were issued on a 'Y' serial in September 2003 with very early 'F's following in October/December hence only a narrow band of watches exist as true anniversary models. The earliest serial I have come across is Y94XXXX with papers dated 26/09/2003, however there was some speculation that it could have been a regular 16610 with changed dial. Given there were no accompanying images of the model ref; and/or s/n between the lugs I have my doubts over it too. I can confirm however a watch with s/n Y96XXXX to be correct thereby giving a ballpark reference as to when the first watches hit AD's. It is the opinion of some that there were a very small batch of watches released on a 'Y' serial that utilised the last of the lug hole cases, however I am yet to see one in the flesh, for sale or even an image of one for that matter. If they do in fact exist then they are a even greater rarity than the early lug hole versions that followed.

- Noobfactory 16610 LV -

As per the above discussion on the Noobfactory 16610 LN this is the LV variation. Comes with a 21j DG2813 movement (or similar variation) as standard.

X70KzrE.jpg

- TC 16610 LV-

a9X5Zjt.jpg


Similar to the discussion in the TC 16610 sub-section above this is TC's LV version of his Submariner. This project would never have gotten off the ground if it wasn't for member Pamluver80 persuading TC to look into this as a project to develop and bring to the forums. If anything it is probably just as successful as the standard 16610 offering.

- BKLM TW16610 LV -

This is a hybrid piece based off the standard TW16610 that BK currently offers in his Repertorium. BK supplies this watch with a superlume WM9 LV dial and hand set although he doesn't advertise this piece.

faBJX7p.jpg

*Picture credit DarthAlex*


- BKLM WM9 16610 LV-

Gd4Y6OK.jpg


- Rolex LV Insert -

As with other Rolex models there is a huge amount of variation in parts, especially the bezel, and bezel colouring. The LV is not an exception to the rule and same as there is changes in Rolex genuine parts there is also changes in the replica parts as well.


~16613~

The 16613 is probably one of the most sought after Rolex reps due to the amazing starburst finish on the blue dial. This watch again comes in various qualities, from cheap 21j variations up to MBK and WM9 versions. Bracelets come in two variations as well. 14k wrapped bracelets offer the best wear protection, but the 18k plated versions are decent enough as well.

As with the other subs I have broken it down into the main players for this, which in this case is Noob + others, WM9 and MBK / MBW variants.

The official bracelet combinations for the 16613;

93153 Bracelet - 501B/593 Hollow End links
93253 Bracelet - Solid End Links

ke88kZS.jpg


wNbleIE.jpg


- WM9 16613 -

Just as with the other WM9 subs, these are no longer available direct from source. Originally modded and distributed through BK's Repertorium they are only now available via member to member deals. These were originally available back in 2010 in very limited numbers with 14k wrapped bracelets. If you have the time you can read through the pre-order thread in BK's section as this was one of the watches that took a long long time in coming and was disrupted by several issues.


msY0Obk.jpg

- MBW / MBK 16613 -

Currently available only from a single dealer, Narikaa, who travels to Thailand to pick these up specifically for members on here. They are not cheap, running at around $450 without shipping. But they are considered probably the current best version still freely available.

u3kpSRd.jpg


~16618~

Not much is talked about on the full gold Submariner for a few reasons. Primarily because there are no really good replicas of the 16618. No high accuracy replicas have been produced so far with almost all of them falling short of the mark. Any issues that might appear on other Stainless Steel replicas such as the crownguards are impossible to modify on the full gold models due to the gold plating. Some pop up now and again, the TWbest version was available for a while (pictured below) but I'm unsure of the availability of it currently.

Secondly is the difference in weight between Stainless Steel and solid 18k Gold. This would be immediately noticable to anyone wearing or handling such a watch.

Thirdly there is the cost vs believability factor. If you are wearing a replica of a watch that costs tens of thousands of dollars then this is probably the quickest way to be 'called out' for wearing a replica watch.
1xuBa9q.jpg
yDrg4fq.jpg


OJdi383.png

*Picture credit Puretime.co*
TFTFzzu.jpg



~14060~


Most people see the Submariner and the Submariner Date and just assume that one has a date, the other doesn't, and that's the difference. Of course, this is not true. They are completely different watches. There are definite, but subtle, diferences between the measurements on both case sets.
Z9rfBPz.png


Almost nothing on these watches interchanges except the hands and Triplock Crown... Even the bezel inserts are different to fit the different size bezels, and they use different (although interchangeable until SEL's) bracelets.... Since they do use the same hands, it gives an illusion that they are longer because of the smaller dial..they extend into the markers more..
xsblhc4.jpg


~14060M~

The Ref. 14060 Submariner remained in production till 1999, when it was replaced by the Ref. 14060M Submariner, which had an improved movement movement. However, it was not COSC certified. In 2007, some of the later production Ref. 14060M's were sent to COSC for certification, the first non-date Submariners to be certified as chronometers since the 5512 stopped production in 1978.

WDXNibq.jpg


The 14060 is available in varying qualities. It's not the most widely replicated watch so they are a bit thin on the ground. That doesn't stop people from wanting it though.
8E4YIkr.jpg

*Picture credit Trevor*
erR7NmF.gif
 
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Ceramic Submariners 2008 to present

~Updates and Improvements~

The line of ceramic submariners were released in 2008 starting with the 116619LB full white gold Submariner with Blue dial and Blue bezel. The release schedule can be see below;

7TrHa7i.png


Several updates of note were brought in with the advent of the new 1166-- series Submariners.

-Ceramic Bezel; "Cerachrome"
-Maxi-case design based on the GMT II Ceramic case
-Maxi dial markers (as found on the 16610 LV)
-Maxi minute hand (as found on the 16610 LV - only the DSSD has maxi hour and minute hands)
-Blue "Chromalight" lume; a mixture unique to, and patented by, Rolex
-Anti-reflective coating on crystal Cyclops (also found on some late model 16610)
-Glidelock bracelet clasp

The better ceramic Submariners can be broken down into two factories that currently compete in this market. We have the original Noobfactory versions and the better Big Pilot (aka BP factory). On the horizon is the release of the new Noobfactory versions of the ceramic Submariner and from what we've seen so far it could be very good indeed. I won't talk about earlier versions as there really is no point, they were innacurate and pretty rubbish. You can buy 21j versions of the Noobfactory Sub-C and that is about as cheap as you should go in my opinion.

BKLM1234 (BK's Repertorium) also sells modified versions of the Noobfactory Submariners. His modifications are an extended QC session. He gaurantees a Swiss movement, an updated datewheel overlay with a better font and also makes sure the crystal cyclops is aligned with the datewindow.

~116610 LN~

7AmIsNZ.png


- Noobfactory -

The de facto watch for anyone looking for an entry into the world of ceramic submariners. One of the first ones to get it "mostly" right. This can probably be attested to by the number of people that have bought it.

U3E64s9.jpg



- Noobfactory V2 Prototype -

Currently still not released as of 16/05/2013 but hotly anticipated. Full updates are still to be confirmed but upgrades to the pearl, AR crystal and case set are expected. Initial batch appears to be only available with the A3135 movement.

k9suKmo.jpg


Update 01/08/2013: As of now the V2 Noobmariner ceramic sub is available for order from our TDs in both 116610 LN and LV (Hulk) variations. Currently this is the best ceramic sub rep on the market. Lists of upgrades over the V1 include;

More accurate case set
Upgraded bracelet and end links (now using 2mm gen size springbars)
AR coated cyclops
Sapphire crystal clad pearl using genuine construction style
Correct smaller hour hand

- BP Factory -

Positives:

-Case and lugs almost perfect - better than the Noob Sub-C V1
-Great pearl (although issues with coming loose)
-Tight bezel rotation - very solid feel
-Nice insert with numbers that appear engraved rather than printed
-Superb date font
-AR on cyclops
-Above average SEL fit
-LEC is very small and hard to see (as per gen)
-Rehaut engraving aligned with minute markers

Negatives:

-Loose pearls on some (easy fix)
-Dial spacing ('OfficiallyCertified') - not visible apart from Macro
-Slightly lumpy lume application on some
-Issues with initial run of bracelet clasps being loose, fixed on run #2

GeRSk9t.jpg



- TW Best -

This maker is known for selling ceramic submariners using the SA3135 movement which is a clone of the Rolex 3135 movement. Generally these are quite expensive (±$400) and the movement itself has not proven itself wholly stable. There are quite a few variations. V1 had issues with stems breaking in the Submariner models due to movement alignment in the case. There were also reports that some gen hands and dials did not fit as expected. V2 supposedly resolved these issues but they are quite rare so not many reviews are about.

Positives on this watch were the upgraded and very nice pearl, a deeper engraved bezel, correct hour hand, correct rehaut engraving and of course the mimic operation of the SA3135 movement.

4Tn2aJx.jpg


- BKLM Noobfactory 116610 LN -

This is a slightly modified Noobfactory Ceramic submariner V1.

As per BKLM1234's description in the thread below:

- Guaranteed genuine ETA 2836-2 OR Swiss Sellita SW-220
- Bracelet all brushed like gen except the sides are mirror-polished
- My custom datewheel overlay installed
- Fully press in the crystal for WR and even it to maximize WR. **NEW: my own better, more expensive (at least 3x more, not the cheap PE gasket that the noobfactory uses) crystal gasket that doesn't "hair out" when fully pressed in.
- Line up the 12 o'clock marker to the engraved coronet on the rehaut engraving. Again the factory often leave them misaligned.

hprjrp2.jpg


~116610 LV aka The Hulk~

116610lv - hulk - owners club - post em if you got em by pilworx

irNp3hl.png


- Noobfactory V1 -

Based on the standard V1 Noob submariner case set this was the best replication attempt at the Hulk. It got a lot of things right, the hardest being the colour of the ceramic insert (emerald green) and the "sunburst" dial effect. This still has a lot of the issues that plague the V1 116610 LN version from the Noobfactory. There's several threads that give lots of information, but the information from the LN section above is also applicable.

sYTz3PK.jpg



- Noobfactory V2 Prototype -

Still unreleased in fully complete form as per the 116610 LN V2 this is the prototype Hulk sub seen on offer from a few dealers. It has the same upgrades as the LN version and appears to retain the same dial/hands/bezel combo as the original 116610 LV Hulk V1 from the Noobfactory. There is very little information on this as of yet but I will update this section as more threads and information is available.

embIzlc.jpg



- BP Factory -

Base off the very successful case set for the LN version this is a contender as a very good Hulk. A large detractor is the metallic nature of the bezel insert as opposed to the gen which is a matte emerald green. It carries the same upgrades and advantages as the LN version.


- TW Best -

Again as per the TW Best 116610 LN there is very little information as these don't seem to be commonly bought. I bought one so I feel I can say that you probably shouldn't. The flaws against the current Noobfactory version cannot make up for slight benifits in other areas.

X1gKVdv.jpg



~116613 LB~

CeyPNL3.png


- Noobfactory -

Up until Baselworld 2013 the 116613 LB sported a flat blue dial unlike the original 16613 which had the signature 'sunburst' effect which made it so appealing. However it looks like Rolex is bringing back the 'sunburst' effect which I'm sure will make a lot of people very happy. Unfortunately it's an effect that the rep makers sometimes struggle to get right. The worst case scenario is that the dial ends up being purple rather than blue. Some ceramic subs already come with the incorrect (but now correct) sunburst dial. Rep makers influencing the gen makers perhaps?

One of the major issues with this watch will be the colour of the numbers and markings on the ceramic bezel. They tend to be yellow rather than the gold as per the genuine.

RQuNVql.jpg


~116613 LN~

As per the above statement on the bezel colouring this is still just a base Noobfactory (in most cases) offering.

qzmOsgg.png


H7TLc7G.jpg


- BP Factory -

Update 08/06/2013

This is one of the first sightings of the 116613 LN from BP factory and comes with the usual upgrades as well as an improved bezel. It still looks like they are having issues with the clasp not closing properly.

uWTeNW2.jpg


~116618 LB~

As with a lot of the other full gold replicas there is not very many posts about them. In part because the percentage of full gold replicas vs standard SS versions is very small.

I3ZELdX.png



soOJd02.jpg



~116618 LN~

As per the above statement on the 116618 LB. Not often seen.

4U9QLUD.png


PZTZcVC.jpg



~116619 LB aka The Smurf~

This is one of the most popular Ceramic Submariners that are currently in production. There are several different manufacturers all with varying qualities. The stock version to pick up would be the Noobfactory V1 (no news of a V2 just yet).

The original is solid white gold, hence the 9 at the end of the model number. This means that the genuine is a lot heavier than a stainless steel replica. On the other hand the white gold looks quite similar in appearance to the stainless steel so it is a lot easier pull off than a full yellow gold submariner.

This has the same glidelock clasp and bracelet as the other Submariners but the center links of the bracelet and the center of the clasp is polished as opposed to brushed.

oLP194b.png


- Noobfactory V1 -

As per the other NF products it is all based off the same case set. It still carries the same flaws that the other NF Subs have but the colour replication is very close.

utbmNnT.jpg


- BP Factory -

No official release yet but that doesn't stop members from creating pieces made from several other watches.

EsU4FPu.jpg


- BKLM Smurf -

As per BKLM1234's other offerings he puts his own twist on the Smurf Sub

- guaranteed genuine ETA 2836-2 (commonly called Swiss ETA 2836-2 by other dealers) OR Swiss Sellita SW-220
- fully press in the crystal for WR and even it to maximize WR. **NEW: my own better, more expensive (at least 3x more, not the cheap PE gasket that the noobfactory uses) crystal gasket that doesn't "hair out" when fully pressed in.
- line up the 12 o'clock marker to the engraved coronet on the rehaut engraving. Again the factory often leave them misaligned.
- what's a bk watch without any mod even though there's not much needed. The mod is wm9 dw overlay swapped in. I don't like the wrong date font of the noob dw overlay esp. left-justified 21, 31, and 19
Very accurate blue color. Bezel numbers are big and bold enough now.


~114060~

wJaSmCe.png


~Modification Information for Ceramic Submariners~

Popular modifications depending on model;

New 'slim' hour hand
Install AR cyclops crystal
Superlume dial/hands/bezel pearl
Modify bezel engravings from white paint to silver look

Contributers to this WIKI:

I would like to thank the following people for contacting me and adding to this WIKI page.

txrob779
Rols16610
Debellum
arcadia
justlounging
Pilworx​
 
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0lwQ1.gif

Picture credit AskMeAgain*

~ History ~

The Small History of the Yacht-Master by Debellum

The Rolex Yacht-Master is a sport watch made by Rolex, first introduced in 1992 with the model 11628 in 18KT yellow gold. In 1994, Rolex released a lady's model (69628) and a mid-size man's model (68628), which was the first time Rolex had ever issued a smaller professional size watch. In 1996, Rolex introduced two-tone (stainless steel and 18kt yellow gold) to the lady's and mid-size line.

In 1997, Rolex released the Yacht-Master in Rolesium, a term patented by Rolex in 1932 which gives the Yacht-Master a stainless steel and platinum construction; the bezel and dial are platinum, while the case, band, crown, etc. are stainless steel. This model is also known as the Platinum Yacht-Master.

Some facts on the rep quality:

- Biggest tell typically is the Rolesium dial reproduction. First versions, noob Yacht-Master included, tended to have a brownish color here.

- The 2008 ETA version, as well as the current SA3135 rep try solving that by applying a flat grey background with some metal sparkle elements in between.

- The TW best had the right rough texture and now brown color tint, but it was slightly too dark overall, plus it came with some flaws in the black print reproduction (crown, Rolex word, etc).

- Golden (or Rolesium?) standard is the wm9. TC uses the identical dial like wm9.

- Second biggest flaw is the bezel insert. Both numbers font, numbers spacing, numbers position relative to the inner and outer bezel rim, the degree how much the numbers get rised, and the texture of the sanded background is not always well reproduced on the reps.

- Again wm9 and TC are golden standard, followed closely by SA3135, then TW best. All others are typically bad, including aftermarket inserts from eBay.

- Other potential flaws are: the red color both in the "Yachtmaster" print (the latter being too thin font sometimes on top) and the seconds hand; the date font, size and position (only perfect on the wm9, even the TC has flaws here); crown position; case shape ("Sean case" on wm9, TC and TW best v1 is most accurate); crown reproduction on the clasp (tell on all reps, including wm9).

~ 16622 ~

f573Y.jpg


Available with 21j through to 'Swiss ETA'
Quality varies with case set
Available with / without rehaut engraving
Available 34mm through to 40mm sizes

lXBf7.jpg

*Picture credit silix-prime.co*

Noob Yacht-Master (2008)
Click picture for full size image
o5Fdet.jpg



~ 16623 ~

Zcx5B.jpg


Available with 21j through to 'Swiss ETA'
Quality varies with case set
Available 29mm through to 40mm sizes
14k Wrapped Bracelet option possible

teOdZ.jpg

*Picture credit silix-prime.co / watcheden.biz*


~ 16628 ~

0NlvZ.jpg


Available with 21j through to 'Swiss ETA'
Quality varies with case set
Available 29mm through to 40mm sizes
18k Plated

Zenl8.jpg

*Picture credit silix-prime.co / watcheden.biz*


~ 116622 ~

QaPau.jpg


The blue faced Yacht-master has just appeared in the dealer websites as of 29/12/2012. The only version of this so far on the market appears to have the SA3135 Rolex clone movement as does the original SA3135 Rolesium version. Although superficially it appears good there are some issues with this new version.

First of all the sunburst blue dial. It is difficult to tell whether this is a feature of this new watch. Secondly the numbers on the bezel insert are too close to the outer edge. Thirdly the bracelet has the wrong clasp. The clasp on the new 116622 Yacht-Master should be the Easylink clasp found on the GMT and Milgauss models, instead it is the older style short Fliplock bracelet found on older style GMT II's. This would be a simple replacement job, but is another sign that this is the original SA3135 Yacht-Master Rolesium with an updated dial rather than a completely new watch.

AqBN4.png

*Picture credit Puretime.co*



3byF1.jpg


~ WM9 Yacht-Master Rolesium ~

Click pictures for full size image
9bdFVt.jpg


WM9 / BKLM Yacht-Master watches are no longer produced. They still command a premium depending on whether or not genuine parts have been added to the watch. The only chance of you buying one now is through the member to member sales forum.

~ TC Yacht-Master Rolesium ~

Small volume, high quality case sets come from TC enabling you to build an excellent Yacht Master 16622 watch. The TC factory Yacht Master was a pre-order sale and I'm unsure at this time of its further availability. You can find more details over on TCs Supporting Vendor section on RepGeek.com or on his blog directly.

TC vs. WM9 Dial
Click pictures for full size image
BddD5t.jpg



~ TW Best Yacht-Master Rolesium ~

This version from the TW factory (Taiwan) were available for a short time. Current availability of this version is unknown.

Click pictures for full size image
rYBXNt.jpg


TW Best dial Vs. Gen
EwFqAt.jpg



SA3135 Yacht-Master Rolesium

The SA3135 version should still be available. Please read the Rolex WIKI page for more information on this movement.

~ Sean (ETASwiss) ~

Sean at ETASwiss is another boutique dealer offering case sets close to 1:1. As with the BK/TC Yacht-Masters expect to pay a premium for this accuracy. These case sets are designed for the genuine Rolex 3135 movement. You can purchase movement spacers to allow you to use ETA movements, or if you are lucky enough to have a genuine movement (or an SA3135) it will drop right in to the case.

**As of 21/07/2012 the case is not listed on his site. I am unsure of its availablity**


p9u2z.gif

Picture credit AskMeAgain*

~ History ~



The Rolex Yacht-Master II is a sport watch made by Rolex, first introduced in March 2010 with the models 116688 (Yellow Gold) and 116689 (White Gold). One year later, Rolex introduced model 116681 which was made from steel and everose gold. The Yacht-Master II uses the 4160 movement specifically designed for the Yacht-Master II. All Yacht-Master II watches have a case size of 44mm.

The Rolex 4160 movement is a chronograph movement with the complication of a programmable timer that counts down ten minutes. The countdown mechanism was primarily designed for regattas where the Starting sequence can last up to 10 minutes. The movement took 35,000 hours (nearly 4 years) to create and is made up from 360 parts. The movement also has a 72 hour power reserve for when the watch is inactive.

The countdown mechanism is constructed using a column wheel that extends through the main plate and a vertical clutch. The mechanism makes it possible for the wearer to program in advance of and official countdown time and then start the timer once the countdown has begun and the mechanism can be programmed to count down 0 to 10 minutes. The countdown feature can be locked and unlocked by twisting the bezel through 90 degrees. The Yacht-Master II was one of the first watches in the world to have a bezel that worked in conjunction with the movement.

If the wearer has started the countdown either too early or too late then the countdown can be synchronized. By pressing the start/stop button, located at the 2 o'clock position, and then pressing the reset button, located at the 4 o'clock position, the minute countdown hand re-positions its self to the nearest minute while the seconds countdown hand returns to 0.
~ Replica Movements ~



There is unfortunately nothing in the replica world that could re-create the functions of this watch. As per the description above it was incredibly hard to make and I believe was the first ever watch with a mechanical function tied to the rotation of the bezel. The replica movement is a modified 2813 movement with running seconds at 6. The exact functions of the movement are unclear as I simply have not seen anyone who has bought this watch. This watch is also I believe the first 44mm watch that Rolex have made in modern times, with most being 40mm or less and only the new Explorer II (42mm) and Datejust II (41mm) above that range.

Update: 07/06/2013

We finally have confirmation that the rep does have the correct functions as the gen watch.



YM II by Bruisedknux
hlDtz.jpg
~ 116688 ~



q0YDP.jpg


44mm x 14mm
Nickel-plated Asian 2813 automatic 23J Movement
18K rose-gold plated solid 316L stainless steel case
Scratch-proof sapphire crystal
Bi-directional rotating bezel

0Y1rn.jpg

*Picture credit Puretime.co*


~ 116689 ~

UM56b.jpg


44mm x 14mm
Nickel-plated Asian 2813 automatic 23J Movement
Solid 316L stainless steel case
Scratch-proof sapphire crystal
Bi-directional rotating bezel

tmFsP.jpg

*Picture credit Puretime.co*

~ 116681 ~

fwJ0k.jpg


44mm x 14mm
Nickel-plated Asian 2813 automatic 23J Movement
Solid 316L stainless steel case
Stainless steel bracelet with 18k yellow gold-plated midlinks
Scratch-proof sapphire crystal
Bi-directional rotating bezel

FgIgH.jpg

*Picture credit Puretime.co*


~ 116680 ~

Released at Basel World 2013 is the Yachtmaster II available in Stainless Steel for the first time. Given that the rep is already based on Stainless steel there isn't any need to change much other than the serial number and adding the blue bezel with a white font from the 116688 or 116681 model.

3MDdb4h.png


Contributers to this WIKI:

I would like to thank the following people for contacting me and adding to this WIKI page.

AskMeAgain
txrob779
Gngn
justloungin
Debellum​
 
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~ History ~



The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is a mechanical, self-winding chronograph. It is manufactured since the early 1960s and known as the archetype of a sport watch for racing drivers.

There are two series of the Cosmograph Daytona. The original series, produced in small quantities from the early 1960s to the later 1980s, has a four-digit model or reference number, for example the reference 6263. This original series eventually became iconic but in very short supply in the early 1990s, which led to a second series to meet demand. This second series was a Zenith modified movement, the five digit series movements noted by dropping the "1" from the current 6 digit code is notably the most accurate of all movements whose pedigree is in the famous Zenith "El Primero" movement. This movement was originally manufactured and released in the '60s and is still the highest VPH mass produced movement on the market at 36,000 VPH. The "El Primero" movement is often considered the hallmark of chronographs for accuracy and reliability. Rolex purchased these movements for the Daytona and then modified the movement from 36,000VPH to 28,800VPH and made a few other subtle changes. These later series Daytonas prior to in-house movements were produced from 1988 to 2000 and represent the time period where Rolex Daytonas really began cult status, due to its limited production, accuracy, reliability and limited supply as they were coming from Zenith. This Zenith based movement is often considered more accurate and reliable than any other movement in the Chronograph space, including the current in-house Rolex Daytona model. The current series, the Rolex in-house made movement, has a six-digit reference number, for example reference 116520. The new six-digit Daytonas are certified, self-winding chronometers with chronograph functions.



igMum.png

*Click picture for link*

f1n1x.jpg


~ A7750 useage and good practice ~

The A7750 overall is a robust movement in standard configuration. Complications arise when it is modified. This could be moving the seconds to 6, as per the Portuguese or Daytona replicas, or the seconds at 12 configuration for some Audemar Piguet replicas. However, these modifications aside there are good and bad ways to use any mechanical movement. Here are some handy links for anyone owning an A7750 equipped replica.

~ Seconds at 6 ~


The seconds at 6 configuration most commonly seen in the Rolex Daytona is, as stated before, a modification to the movement. Seen below is the older style seconds at 6 movement with multiple additional gears. These are often, dirty, misaligned, on press fit pivots and prone to very erratic timekeeping.

7HZI7.jpg

*Picture credit 14060 or 16610?*

The solution to this was to create a new movement plate that incorporated 3 new jewels to the gear train. This has lead to a much more reliable movement.

0Xv64.jpg

*Picture credit 14060 or 16610?*

For more in depth information please read this thread by 14060 or 16610?

~ Seconds at 9 ~

efKtI.jpg

Zenith El Primero Cal 400

Seconds at 9 is the native configuration for the A7750 movement. The only versions of the Daytona that I have seen are a mashup of the older Zenith Daytona (secs at 9) with the dial and the case set & clasp system from the current 1165** models. This being said, if you can live with the inconsistency of the movement vs the case set it means you can have the most stable of the Daytona replicas.

There is currently only one factory that builds the seconds at 9 Daytona. It is not well known for amazing QC according to the dealers. Current dial / case sets are limited to the 116520 with white and black dials. I have not seen any other variations recently but this doesn't mean they are not available.


~ Frozen centre seconds (21j) ~

The frozen centre seconds Rolex Daytona was a piece offered by only one dealer on this forum who now, sadly, has passed away. This movement offered some advantages and disadvantages over the A7750 modified movements. It allowed for a thinner and more gen like case, with a reliable running seconds at 6 on the dial. This was a native 21j movement with this configuration. Standard 21j Daytona reps would have either both the main seconds hand AND the running seconds. It took 3 years before a dealer listened to us about a reliable 21j movement, for a reasonably cheap price, and a good case set. You can read about this offer HERE in T4Ds old section (RIP).

Update: 02/04/2013

One of the newer dealers to the forum, Ryanwyer at Intime watches, has posted up some interesting threads about this 21j version and customers have already been receiving pieces from him. Good news for those wanting a reliable Daytona.

0DXTJ2I.jpg



Update: 08/05/2013 - WM9 Daytona??

This was not something that I have heard of before, or seen before. Possibly a first for the forum. A member has turned up and posted what he claims to be a WM9 Daytona with a slim profile and working seconds at 6 movement. This is, he claims, a prototype from the WM9 factory and possibly the only one. He has further modified it with a genuine crystal.

VsQyawI.jpg


~ 116505 ~

UfGHq.jpg


Available with 7750 movement
29j Movement availability unknown
18k Rose gold plating / Sapphire Crystal

Tx98w.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz*

~ 116509 ~

gHwFN.jpg


Available with 7750 movement
29j Movement availability unknown
Sapphire Crystal

Selyo.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz*


~ 116515LN ~

yoZSP.jpg


Available with 7750 movement
29j Movement availability unknown
18k 'thick' Rose Gold plating
Sapphire Crystal

Zy8Ks.jpg

*Picture credit Puretime.co*


~ 116518 ~

Fz1PQ.jpg


Available with 7750 movement
29j Movement availability confirmed
18k Yellow Gold plating
Sapphire Crystal

XdUuK.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz*


~ 116519 ~

vFBbs.jpg


Available with 7750 movement
29j Movement availability unkown
Sapphire Crystal
Unable to verify existence of MOP/Diamond dial combination

pFdpr.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz*


~ 116520 ~

9QRbS.jpg


Available with 7750 movement
29j Movement availability confirmed
Sapphire Crystal

cEVWK.jpg

*Picture credit Puretime.co*


~ 116523 ~

59Ki8.jpg


A7750 Version / Grey Sunburst
A21j Version / MOP & Diamonds
29j Movement availability unconfirmed
Availability of other versions unconfirmed

OUSRV.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz*

~ 116528 ~

eDG9B.jpg


A7750 Version Available
29j Movement availability unconfirmed
Sapphire crystal
18k Plated

3lpVE.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz*


~ 116506 ~

Introduced at Basel World 2013 is the newest version of the Rolex Daytona with a chocolate coloured ceramic bezel and powder blue dial. This is the first Daytona made from Platinum. As it's only just been released it should be a little time before we see a replica of this.

RkIBzi3.png



~ 116598 RBOW / 116599 RBOW~

DXcRs.jpg


Japanese Quartz Movement
Sapphire crystal
18k Plated

FihOF.png



~ Project X / Pro-Hunter ~

LDSWe.jpg



Project X and Pro-Hunter are customisation houses working specifically with Rolex watches. There are other customisation houses such as Bamford, Blackout and Fragment. You get the ability to customise the entire colour of every aspect of your watch. As far as replicas are concerned there are as many variations out there as you can imagine. With the ability for customers to change almost anything the replica makers have taken as many designs as possible and churned them out.
~ Daytona Reviews ~


~ Eye Candy & Wristshots ~
 
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~History~


The Rolex GMT-Master wristwatch was originally designed in collaboration with Pan Am Airways and issued by the airline to their crews on transcontinental long-haul flights. ("GMT" in the name stands for Greenwich Mean Time). The watch has a convenient capability that was unique at the time as it enabled the crews to have GMT or another second time zone displayed. GMT is the time zone that is required for all aviation planning, weather forecasts, schedules and other paperwork. In addition as Inertial Navigation and Global Positioning System technologies did not yet exist, and aircraft were out of range of normal radio navigation beacons during transoceanic flights, an accurate GMT time source was essential for use with specialist sextants for astronavigation (obtaining geographical position by relative angles of the horizon, the sun and other stars). In fact the very first “Marine Chronometers” (the predecessors of more modern mechanical watches) were specifically developed for use in astronavigation on ships during the 18th century.

The second time zone on the watch also proved a great help to crews for managing jetlag and for communications home when abroad. It is this capability that has made them very popular with businessmen and other travellers. They have also been particularly popular with NASA and military pilots and many soldiers and sailors who often require GMT or a second time zone.

In the early 1980s the Rolex GMT-Master II was released (although production of the original version continued alongside it until the late 1990s). Although the watch looks almost identical it uses a movement that has the additional capability of a quickset hour hand that can be adjusted to local time without stopping the seconds or disturbing the minutes and 24 hour GMT hand. As the watch continues to feature the rotatable bezel it is now able to display a third time reference.

The Rolex GMT 24 hour hand feature has been adopted by many other watch manufacturers and is now a relatively common feature. However nearly all of these watches use an ETA movement that is operated slightly differently from the Rolex GMT-Master II design (the 24 hour hand is quickset rather than the local hour hand) and whilst perfectly usable, it is a slightly less convenient design for pilots and regular travellers but very suitable for those staying at home and wishing to track a time zone in another country (e.g. Telephone calls for business or relatives abroad). Omega are one exception as they operate in the same way as the Rolex GMT-Master II.

Although the original Rolex GMT Master was only available in Stainless Steel, as it was conceived as a functional, work watch, Rolex have been making luxury versions in both mixed steel and gold and all gold since the 1970s and there are even exotic variations that incorporate elaborate designs that include precious stones. All variants have significantly increased in their purchase cost relative to inflation and are now often regarded as high luxury or status symbols. In spite of this they still make a very accurate and robust work watch that is very well suited to its original design purpose and with their all metal construction, shock proofing and water-resistance they still remain popular amongst pilots today.

The 50th anniversary model has a green "GMT" hand (forth hand) and the words GMT MASTER II on the face are also in green. Green has traditionally been used by Rolex to denote watches that have been in continuous production for 50 years. The updated GMT Master II also has the new in house produced hairspring, dubbed by Rolex as the "Parachrom hairspring". The new hairspring is made of a new Non Ferromagnetic alloy which has a distinct blue colour. The hairspring is reported to be less susceptible to magnetic fields and more resistant to shocks, leading to a more accurate timepiece. The watch has been nicknamed the GMT II C to distinguish it from its predecessors.

~Movements~


Please see the above link for information on the current movements found in GMT Master I and II replicas.

DG3804
Asian Clone 2836-2 (CHS and ICHS)
Asian Superclone 2836-2
ETA 2836-2 (CHS and ICHS)
SW220 (Sellita)
A3186

~Handstack (CHS/ICHS)~

When referring to handstack we are talking about the ordering of the hands on the movement. On all regular 3 hand movements the Hour hand is placed on the movement first, followed by the Minute hand and finally the Seconds hand.

afXa1.png


In Vintage GMT models (1675) this has the additional GMT hand first (as above pic), followed by the others in succession. With the 16750 onwards this is different.

Hour Hand / GMT Hand / Minute Hand / Seconds hand - (as below)

oxBv2.png


There are two variations of replica GMT movements. Firstly you have the DG3804. This is a low beat movement with native GMT function (meaning it is a purpose designed GMT movement). This is low beat 21,600 BPH and is closest to the beat rate of the 1675. Its handstack is also accurate to the 1675.

The modified Clone 2836 (or ETA 2836) has an aftermarket addition of gearing to allow the GMT hand to work. This is a high beat movement of 28,800 BPH and is accurate to modern Rolex movements. The handstack is innacurate for representing anything other than the 1675. When this movement is used in 16750 models onward it is referred to as an Incorrect Hand Stack (ICHS).

There are modified movements out there with the Correct Hand Stack (CHS) as per the gen movements in the 16750 models onward. These are rarer than the ICHS movements and are prone to breaking down. As a result they are not recommended.

Rick914 had this to say on the modified 2836 movement in a discussion found here:

~How does the genuine GMT function work?~

Jumping Hour Hand: On genuine Rolex GMT movements they have what is described as a jumping hour hand. When changing the time the movement remains unhacked (seconds hand continues to move) and the hour hand moves in 1 hour increments. This allows the wearer to change the local time zone on the main time keeping hands without altering the time keeping of the watch. The GMT hand will continue to follow the original time zone.

Jumping GMT Hand: On replicas we have it backwards to the genuine. The GMT hand is tied to the Date setting position of the movement. This means that when we counter clockwise rotate the crown the GMT hand will 'Jump' one hour. If we adjust the time the GMT hand will 'follow' the timekeeping of the main hand set. This means that to change time to local, and keep GMT hand to home time we have to set the main hands to local and then change the GMT hand forward or backwards to 'home' time.

NOTE: The jumping GMT hand is present on the ETA 2893 GMT and modified Clone/ETA 2836 movements. The 21j DG3804 movements GMT hand is infinitely adjustable and does not 'jump'.

~Coke / Pepsi / Lunette Noir~

These are the terms used when describing the bezel insert on the GMT master.

Mnh8J.png


~Spiderweb dial~

46870853.jpg


For more information on this please see this thread:


GMT Master

~16750~

Production Period: 1981-1988
Model Name: Rolex GMT Master
Caliber: 3075, 28800A/h, hacking, quickset
Pressure proof to 100m/330ft
Bracelet: Oyster 78360, Jubilé 62510
Glass: Acrylic crystal
Indexes: Tritium
The 16750 followed the 1675, introducing the quickset feature. With this change, the order of the hands got changed:

1675: GMT/Hour/Minute/Second
16750: Hour/GMT/Minute/Second

Two different variants of the dial:

Matt, without white gold indexes - rare.
Glossy, with white gold indexes (identical to the newer GMTs). Rolex switched the dial during production (approx. serial 9XXXXXX / 1986). This dial was first introduced without 'Date'-imprint, later versions show this imprint. During service, many matt dials got replaced by glossy ones.

UqvaB.jpg


Es4D9.jpg



Other Variants:

Ref. 16753 steel/yellow gold (Oysterbracelet 78363, Jubilébracelet 62523) aka "Root Beer GMT"

MlY2S.jpg



With black dial and insert:

MgOEB.jpg


zAoZS.jpg


Ref. 16758 yellow gold (Leather or Oysterbracelet 7206/8, Jubilébracelet 6311/8); sapphire crystal

U0609m.jpg


m14J1l.jpg


~16750 Replica Availability~

Some points to note:

The 16750 is the same case as the 1675

Early models had matte dial + applied lume markers
Early models were Oyster Perpetual
Early models had the same hand stack as the DG3804 and ETA 2836-2 modified GMT movements

Later models had gloss dial + white gold markers
Later models were Oyster Perpetual Date
Later models have a different hand stack as the DG3804 and ETA 2836-2 modified GMT movements

Most of the 'vintage' replicas available are based on the 1675, and not the 16750.


hHwje.jpg

*Picture credit AskMeAgain*

GMT Master II

~16760 aka Fat Lady aka Sophia Loren~

Production Period:1983-1988
Model Name: Rolex GMT Master II
Caliber: 3085, 28800A/h, hacking, quickset (24-hour-hand)
Pressure proof to 100m/330ft
Bracelet: Oyster 78360, Jubilé 62510
Glass: Sapphire crystal
Indexes: Tritium
The Ref. 16760 is the first GMT Master II.

It is nicknamed Fat Lady because of it's extra thick case.

First GMT with white gold indices borders and sapphire crystal, steel was the only option.

Was only offered with the red/black bezel, which was also a new combination.

With the new caliber 3085 the 24-hour hand became Independently adjustable. The seconds hand only stopped when the crown was pulled all the way out -> accurate time could be kept while setting the watch.

Extra large crown guards.

xE3fb.jpg



Even more interestingly, the 16760 GMT-II boasted an extra-thick case, some .5mm thicker than its predecessor, as well as a thicker bezel & crown guards. This has led to the affectionate nicknames “Fat Lady” and “Sophia Loren” in a nod to the 16760’s zaftig proportions. One can see in this comparison with the 16660 Sea-Dweller just how thick the original GMT-II’s case actually was:

QBH1N.jpg


Produced only until 1988, the short-run 16760 was replaced by the much longer running ref. 16710 GMT-Master II. Not only did the 16710 sport a new caliber of movement (the identically functioning cal. 3185), but it had also lost weight and returned to more slender, GMT-like dimensions.

zjhNk.jpg


~16700~

Production Period: 1988-1999
Model Name: Rolex GMT Master
Caliber: 3175, 28800A/h, hacking, quickset (direct)
Pressure proof to 100m/330ft
Bracelet: Oyster 78360 and 78790 (Oysterlock starting 1989), Jubilé 62510
Glass: Sapphire crystal
Indexes:
Tritum up to U-Series 1997: T<25 dial
Luminova starting 1998: Swiss dial (variant: Luminova on T<25 dial)


1988 the Ref. 16700 replaced the Ref. 16750. The Ref. 16700 was cheaper compared to the Ref. 16710 which got introduced at the same time.
The caliber 3175 (same functions as the 3075) had still the non-independant hourhand which was the main difference between the Ref. 16700 and the Ref. 16710.

New introduced with this watch:
Sapphire crystal
White gold indexes (altough some predecessors (Ref. 16750) were also already equipped with these).
New case

Date-wheel has vintage open numbers until 1992/1993.

Only available in Stainless Steel.
Bezel colors:
BLRO, Blue/Red aka Pepsi (bleu/rouge), (Bezel 315-16700-6)
LN, Black, (Bezel 315-16700-1)

kuiKl.jpg



~16710~

Production Period: 1989-2007
Model Name: Rolex GMT Master II
Caliber: 3185 (late models with 3186), 28800A/h, hacking, quickset (24-hour-hand)
Pressure proof to 100m/330ft
Bracelet: Oyster 78360 and 78790 (Oysterlock), Jubilé 62510
Glass: Sapphire crystal
Bezel: Anodized aluminum, 120 clicks
Indexes:
Tritium (until 1997): T<25 dial
Luminova (1998/99): Swiss dial
Superluminova (2000-2007): Swiss made dial

The Ref. 16710 replaced 1989 the Ref. 16760 featuring a new, but identical functioning caliber and a slimmer design.

Variant: Luminova on a T<25 dial (1998)
Evolution:

1997/2000: Tritium -> Luminova -> Superluminova
2000: Solid end link bracelet indroduced (SEL).
2003: Laser crown introduced.
2003: No holes case starting (late Y-series).
2007: New certificate (plastic/credit card size) introduced (Z-series).
Late 2007: Caliber 3186 instead of 3185 (late Z-series and the M-series).

Available with three different bezels:
Red/Black aka Coke (Bezel 315-16760-7)
BLRO, Blue/Red aka Pepsi (bleu/rouge), (Bezel 315-16700-6)
LN, Black (lunette noire), (Bezel 315-16700-1)
Other variants:

qRqut.jpg


9WnLO.jpg


0b7YU.jpg


eWS4Q.jpg


Ref. 16713 steel/yellow gold aka Tigerauge (Tigers Eye) (Bezel: 315-16713-5 or 315-16718-1); Oysterbracelet 78363 and 78793 (Oysterlock), Jubilébracelet 62523

PQTou.jpg


28seh.png



Ref. 16718 yellow gold (Bezel 315-16718-3); Oyster bracelet 7206/8 and 78798 (Oysterlock), Jubilébracelet 8386/8

VCtjr.jpg


~16710 Replica Availability / Eyecandy and Information threads~

YLIdc.png



The most accurate option at the moment is a custom build using the 16570 Explorer II replica as a base and adding on a TW best bezel assembly.

An older case set that is no longer in production is the BKLM1234 'Transformer' Noobfactory GMT.


GMT Master II Ceramic

~116710 LN~

Dqm4W.png


40mm as per genuine
Solid mid link bracelet with SEL
Real Ceramic bezel insert
24 click Bi-Directional bezel
Incorrect Hand Stack
Sapphire crystal with no AR cyclops


~116713 LN~

0nVY8.png


40mm as per genuine
Two tone 18k plated
Solid mid link bracelet with SEL
Real Ceramic bezel insert
24 click Bi-Directional bezel
Incorrect Hand Stack
Sapphire crystal with no AR cyclops


~116718 LN~

LNNwd.png


40mm as per genuine
Full gold 18k plated
Solid mid link bracelet with SEL
Real Ceramic bezel insert
24 click Bi-Directional bezel
Incorrect Hand Stack
Sapphire crystal with no AR cyclops



PnWcc.png


40mm as per genuine
Full gold 18k plated
Solid mid link bracelet with SEL
Real Ceramic bezel insert
24 click Bi-Directional bezel
Incorrect Hand Stack
Sapphire crystal with no AR cyclops


~Bi-colour ceramic bezels~

Up until Basel World 2013 the bi-colour GMT Master was a fantasy piece imagined by the rep makers. This is now a reality but probably not what everyone was expecting. Up for release at some point soon is the 116710BLNR;


zHu1Fow.png



~Serti Dials / Diamond Bezels / Pro-Hunter~

Rolex offers a large amount of extra options as standard. Diamond dial markers, diamond bezel inserts, jewel encrusted bracelets and cases. There are so many options, far too many to list here.

Another customising house for Rolex is Pre-Hunter. Usually focusing on PVD / DLC coating and customisation of dials, inserts, hands etc.

RgxcQ.png


~Eyecandy / Modification and Reference threads~

Contributers to this WIKI:

I would like to thank the following people for contacting me and adding to this WIKI page.

AskMeAgain
justloungin
Pilworx​
 
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WKjQc.gif

*Picture credit AskMeAgain*

~History~

Most people believe that the Explorer I was launched by Rolex for commemorating the Everest expedition and that this watch was with British explorer team consisting of Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay etc on 29th, May of 1953, achieving a great task of human being climbing. This story is definitely magic and attractive, but it still has a certain distance to the real fact. Rolex indeed had supported Himalayan expedition since 1933, and later in Everest expeditions, Rolex had been always the official supporters, so Rolex supported each explorer team with its wristwatch. However, Rolex was not the only supporter: it is said that when Edmund Hillary climbed up on the top of Everest, what he wore was a watch from the British supporter Smith. But what Tenzing Norgay wore was indeed an Explorer.

The Explorer was based on the already existing tough and hard wearing bubbleback, which has been modified by Rolex for the more active and adventurous customer. In 1952, the references 6098 and 6150 (both using the A296 movement) were in fact the first prototypes of Explorer to be used by climbers; they were watches with white dials and leaf shaped hands and did not bear the name Explorer yet.

After five years production of Ref. 6610, Ref. 1016 replaced its production in 1963. Ref. 1016 is the most famous edition with the longest production in all the Explorers, until Ref. 14270 replaced it. Explorer Ref. 1016 looks like Ref. 6610 from semblance, but its movement changed to use Cal. 1560 and its water resistant increased from 50m to 100m. During the long production of 26 years, the Explorer Ref. 1016 also changed quite a lot.

In 1989, Ref. 14270 came to the market with surprise. Apart from remaining the name of Explorer and mercedes hands, the conception of Ref. 14270 was completely different from Ref. 1016: the movement is Cal. 3000 with higher frequency, the crystal is sapphire, the case is designed again and the dial changes quite a lot. Such a change definitely makes the style of 14270 have a feeling of elegance and modern, but the pure sports and explorer style of Ref. 1016 actually made most watch lovers hard to forget. In 2001, the reference 114270 replaced 14270 to use Cal. 3130. The Explorer I - 214270 was debuted at Baselworld 2010 and increased the size from 36mm to 39mm with the Cal. 3132 movement.

~Movements~


Please see the above link for information on the current movements found in Explorer I and II replicas.

21j DG2813
Asian Clone 2836
ETA 2836
Asian Clone 2824
ETA 2824
A3131
A3187

Rolex Explorer I

~Differences between the 14270 and the 114270~

1. I know they have different movements: Pro's and con's of each?

Both the Cal. 3000 (27 jewels - 14270) and the Cal. 3130 (31 jewels - 114270) are excellent movements.

2. Different bracelets.

Both retain the same clasp, but the 114270 gained SEL links on the bracelet.

3. Were the only changes to the 114270s the ones that have come w/in the last year, w/ "Rolex" repeated inside the bezel, et cetera?

Yes, the Explorer got the RBR (Rolex Branded Rehaut) recently. Besides that, no other changes were introduced.

4. Older 14270s use tritium for illumination: Was this the case w/ all 14270 models? Did all 14270 models have illuminated 3, 6, 9, and triangle markers? if not, when did this change?

The change from Tritium to SuperLuminova happened around 1998. All Explorers with WG markers would have NON glowing 3, 6 and 9 markers. The numbers LOOK as if they are filled out with SuperLuminova / Tritium (depending on serial number), but in fact they don't glow. The triangle does glow in the night, though.

tgTsF.png

Gen lume shot (Super Luminova)

~14270~


0Gt0c.jpg


36mm as per gen
Twinlock crown
Fliplock bracelet clasp
Hollow mid-link bracelet
Hollow End Links
Sapphire Crystal

UNABLE TO FIND CORRECT 14270 REPLICA IN STOCK

~114270~


lntm3.jpg


36mm as per gen
Twinlock crown
Fliplock bracelet clasp
Hollow mid-link bracelet
SEL (correct for model)
Sapphire crystal

Note: the watch below on Puretime site is mis-labelled, it should be a 114270.

T83U3.png

*Picture credit Puretime.co*

Intrepid modder greg325i has discovered that you can add a Clarks 295 sapphire crystal to the Explorer I - 114270. This involves adding a new gasket but I think we would all agree that the crystal is not only nicer in profile but no longer has the over sized LEC.


lHTMCl.jpg


~214270~

KKGxK.jpg


39mm as per gen
Twinlock crown
Oysterlock Safety Clasp (same as GMT II and Explorer II)
Solid mid link bracelet
SEL
Sapphire Crystal
Blue Luminova

V1

Incorrect Submariner Glidelock clasp
Incorrect Green Lume


V2

Incorrect Submariner Glidelock clasp
Incorrect Green Lume
Incorrect Maxi Minute hand


V3

Incorrect Submariner Glidelock clasp
Incorrect Maxi Minute hand

The V3 is currently the best of the Explorer I - 214270 reps. But it needs some mods to bring it further in line with the genuine watch. The handset is currently incorrect. The genuine watch has a slightly smaller minute hand, and the dial is matte and not gloss as per the rep. As far as I know the V3 still comes with the incorrect Submariner (116610 Ceramic) Glidelock bracelet clasp, as opposed to the Easylink clasp. With these three mods you can have a very close to genuine watch.


e1XIo.png

*Picture credit Puretime.co*

~Reviews and Eye-Candy threads~


ftTPn.gif

*Picture credit AskMeAgain*

~History~


The Rolex Explorer II – sometimes referred to as the ‘Steve McQueen’ Rolex, despite the fact he never wore one – is one of the best examples of an unpopular watch becoming a highly sought-after collector’s item.

Introduced in 1971, the Explorer II was an addition to the Explorer model released in 1953, and intended as a tool watch for cave explorers. This first Explorer II watch, ref.1655, featured an extra hour hand (in a bright orange color) for a 24-hour notation. This is an important feature to cave explorers who may become easily disoriented after long periods underground.

During the entire production period of the ref.1655 Explorer II watch, Rolex only changed small details of the watch. Besides the different bracelets Rolex used during the 1970s (riveted, folded and later on, solid) the second hand went from a straight shaped ‘needle’ to a hand with two circles, one on the long end and one on the short end. The color of the 24 hour hand changed from orange to red-orange and the font on the dial had minor differences on later models.

The movement inside the Explorer II was identical to the movement used in the GMT-Master models, also featuring a 24 hour hand. Caliber 1570 and 1575 movements were used for the entire line-up of ref.1655 Explorer II watches.

The ref.1655 Explorer II was a watch that didn’t sell very well in the early years. Just like the Milgauss and Daytona, jewelers sometimes had them in stock for years and nobody would buy them. The ref.1655 Explorer II is now one of the most collectible Rolex models, fetching impressive bids during auctions.

It wasn’t until 1984 that Rolex introduced a new Explorer II, ref.16550. Changes included the sapphire crystal, a caliber 3085 movement – with a double bridge – and a white dial in addition to the black dial model. The shape of the hands changed drastically as well, especially the 24 hour indicator which changed from a small red-orange arrow shaped hand to a long and sleek designed red 24 hour hand with a white arrow at the end.

This model, ref.16550, in combination with its white dial, had some issues with the white paint which faded to a more creamish color. The black models encountered problems as well, showing cracks in the glossy finish. Some owners had this faulty dial replaced by a Rolex Service Center. Those who didn’t are now owner of the so-called and highly sought after cream-dial Explorers or – in case of the black dial models – spider-web dial Explorers. The ref.16550 is also occasionally referred to as a transitional model, as the new reference 16570 was introduced in 1989. For Rolex in particular, 4-5 years is a very short production time for watches.

The Explorer II ref.16570, featuring a newer type of movement (caliber 3185) had – aside from the bracelet – only one major optical change from its predecessor, the use of black hour marker rings and hands on the white dial version. The cream-dial model had white gold hour markers and hands, just like the Submariner and GMT-Master for example. It is said that beneath the black paint, the hour markers and hands are still white gold.

For information on how to use the GMT function of the Explorer II please read the Frequently Asked Questions section of the Rolex WIKI Page - All the basics

~16570~

A890d.png


40mm
Twinlock crown
Hollow mid link oyster bracelet
Smaller Flip-lock clasp
Sapphire Crystal
Green lume (Tritium on earlier models)

One of the original best Explorer II's were manufactured by the Noobfactory. These are well remembered for their ability to take genuine size dials. See this review from 2010 LINK. Unfortunately for some reason they stopped making this model and subsequently they became quite rare and only available through member sales.

As a result of their ability to take genuine parts they were the perfect base to build a franken watch. See Sneed.12's build with a genuine dial here LINK and By-Tor's review of his gen dial build here LINK.

Thankfully this year was a new release from Hublot V6 factory (CITATION NEEDED). This is the best Explorer II on the market currently and is available from all dealers. This is superlume from factory and very high quality. Unfortunately there is an issue with the 12 marker on the dial, this is slightly off-centre.

This watch is also available from BKLM1234 in his section: LINK.

This base watch is also able to be used to create a very accurate GMT 16710. You can see how BKLM1234 created this transformation here:
Mxuvj.png

*Picture credit Puretime.co*


wBKzL.png

*Picture credit Puretime.co*


~216570~

XFVJy.png


ugrxA.jpg


GhwwB.jpg


Cz4DJ.jpg


42mm as per gen
Larger 7mm Twinlock crown (confirmed on rep)
Solid mid link bracelet with SELs
Blue lume
Sapphire crystal with AR cyclops

ztmFw.png

*Picture credit Puretime.co*


0OQoL.jpg


42mm as per gen
Larger 7mm Twinlock crown
Solid mid link bracelet with SELs
Blue lume
Sapphire crystal with AR cyclops

iX37w.png

*Picture credit Puretime.co*


Update 08/05/2013 - Noob factory Explorer II

This update has been a little time in coming just due to real life commitments. The Noob Factory released the best Explorer II to date with a lot of upgrades over the previous versions;

-Superlume dial and hands
-Double AR crystal cyclops
-2mm springbars
-Updated and very good looking LEC
-Perfectly aligned rehaut engraving
-Running serial numbers on rehaut

To me this is now one of the best Rolex reps out there. The black dial on this model should be matte [need confirmation], so for replication purposes the white dial should be the more accurate.
~Reviews and Eye-Candy threads~
 
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rahlc.gif


~History~

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Milgauss is a highly collectible model introduced by Rolex in 1956 with the model number 6451. The Milgauss was designed as an antimagnetic watch specifically for those who worked in power plants, medical facilities and research labs (like those in Geneva) where electromagnetic fields can cause havoc with the timing of a watch. The current model Milgauss is equipped with amagnetic alloy (Parachrom-Blu) hairspring and movement encased by a Faraday cage. The name Milgauss is derived from the Latin mille, which means one-thousand, and gauss, the unit of a magnetic field. This model is so named because it can withstand a magnetic flux density of 1,000 gauss.

Like the ref. 6541, the current Milgauss sports a "Faraday" cage. There is an outer and a second, inner, caseback. The outer caseback is engraved "Milgauss" (x 2) and also sports two Rolex coronets. Interestingly, the Milgauss was the first men's watch after the Sea-Dweller to sport a factory caseback engraving (some Lady Rolex watches up to the mid 1990ies had an engraving saying "Original Rolex Design"). The inner caseback is laser etched with a "B" which is the symbol for magnetic flux density.

Here are a couple of pictures of the Milgauss case opened, showing the inner caseback:
6WsjY.jpg

7bNdA.jpg


The original Milgauss was very similar to the appearance of the Rolex Submariner, with an oversized case and bezel, with the Twinlock crown, and a riveted Oyster bracelet. Although the Milgauss only went through two different models (6541, 1019) the Milgauss went through numerous configuration changes before being discontinued in 1988.

The Milgauss today remains a sought after model amongst Rolex collectors due to its relatively low sales and popularity during the 1960s and 70s, it has become rare in today's vintage watch market. A vintage Milgauss signed by Tiffany & Co. recently sold for over $32,000.

In 2007, Rolex brought back the Milgauss after nearly two decades as the model number 116400. There are currently three versions: white dial or black dial with a standard colorless sapphire crystal, and the GV (Glace Verte) or "Anniversary" model, with black dial of a slightly different design and a green-tinted sapphire crystal. The GV is the only Rolex produced with a tinted crystal. Although initially rumored to be a limited edition, the GV version is still produced nearly 3 years later.

The Milgauss is only available in 904L polished stainless steel, an alloy that is extremely resistant to scratches and corrosion. Aside from its resistance to magnetic fields, the Milgauss' most unusual feature is its orange lightning-bolt second hand, a unique feature in the Rolex lineup that was originally introduced with the 6541 Milgauss model.

In 2008, the MSRP for it was $6,200 and selling at or below retail. The MSRP for the GV was $6,575 and it was selling above retail in most situations. A short time before its release, resellers and retailers were asking as much as double retail in anticipation of the new model.

~Movements~


Please see the above link for information on the current movements found in Milguass replicas.

21j DG2813
Asian Clone 2836
Asian Superclone 2836
A3131
ETA 2836
Sellita SW240

As a note on movements: The 21j movement should be avoided for this model. The extra weight of the large lightning shaped seconds hand causes extra strain on the 21j movement. This causes the hand to stutter and even fail on occasion. As a result this movement is NOT recommended for this watch.

~116400~

6ZbZT.png


AS0fu.png


owPn1.png


xXw3w.png


40mm as per gen
7mm Twinlock crown
Solid Mid link bracelet with SEL
Easylink clasp
Sapphire Crystal

0Vaqy.png

*Picture credit Puretime.co*


iOmUv.png


1Sv0w.png

*Picture credit Puretime.co*


~116400 GV~

The Milgauss GV is a special edition of the Milguass which has a very distinguishing feature; the Green Sapphire crystal. This is a Rolex exclusive. There is apparently only one company in the world that can make the Green Sapphire crystal and Rolex has the exclusive rights for its use in this model.

The letters "GV" in the model reference "116400GV" stand for "glace verte" which refers to the green edge of the crystal. Depending on angle and light conditions, the green edged glass varies from being hardly noticeable to glowing up in a vivid green.

Here it's caught in the sun:

B1dDD.jpg


And here in the shade:

bJpMs.jpg


It is worth noting that the Milgauss GV does NOT sport the laser etched coronet at 6 in the crystal. It has been said that the laser etched coronet would be too obvious due to the green edged crystal. Other reports state that the laser etched coronet would simply be distorted due to the green crystal. The other two Milgauss models (both named "116400", too, but without the GV nomenclature) both sport the laser etched coronet:

QCTI9.jpg


Apart from the green edged crystal, what identifies the Milgauss GV is the special dial.. The indices at 3, 6 and 9 are orange coloured and ever so slightly broader than the other (white) markers. Finally, only the Milgauss GV sports orange numbers at the end of every markers (on the "ordinary", black faced Milgauss, there are orange squares at the end of the markers). The third version has all-orange markers and - like the GV - orange numbers at the end of the indices.

Genuine Milguass GV Lume shot:

c0amg.jpg


fX5pQ.png


Gu8Tm.png


40mm as per gen
7mm Twinlock crown
Solid Mid link bracelet with SEL
Easylink clasp
Sapphire Crystal with Green AR coating and green gasket

Note on the Replica GV crystal: The true green crystal is almost impossible to replicate. In place of this the factories have given the crystal a green Anti-Reflective coating as well as a green crystal gasket in an attempt to re-create this effect. Out of the three Milguass replicas this makes the GV the most innacurate.

Some people have attempted to colour the edge of the crystal to make it appear more accurate.

fvOMbm.jpg



Adding a genuine crystal is also possible. See page two for pictures.


kVEwf.png

2ncOp.png

*Picture credit Puretime.co*


~Reviews and Eye-Candy threads~


Contributers to this WIKI:

I would like to thank the following people for contacting me and adding to this WIKI page.

AskMeAgain
Justloungin
Mendota​
 
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Ux552.gif

*Picture credit AskMeAgain*

~ History ~

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust is an officially certified, self-winding chronometer wristwatch manufactured by Rolex. When it was launched in 1945, the Datejust was the first wristwatch with a date function. The Datejust is offered with two classic Rolex bracelets: the jubilee and the oyster. The original Datejust was launched with a bezel size of 36mm. Later, however, ladies and mid-sized versions became available. The Turn-o-Graph model was introduced in 1955 as an award given to US Air Force pilots returning from combat missions. It featured a rotating bezel marked to 60 minutes, which can be used to measure time intervals. Datejusts of this type have been nicknamed "Thunderbirds". Chuck Yeager wore one of these models when he broke the sound barrier. This would be the basis for the Rolex Explorer (designed for Sir Edmund Hilary's Mount Everest expedition), the Rolex Submariner, and the Rolex Sea Dweller.

The standard men's Datejust is available in steel; steel with white, yellow or everose gold; or yellow gold.
In 2009, the Oyster Perpetual Datejust II was released. Its case is bigger than the standard Datejust and it also features an updated movement. The men's size is 41mm diameter and it is presently only available in steel with white, yellow or rose gold on an Oyster bracelet.

~ Ladies Date-Just 79174 ~

picturelo.jpg



DateJust Turn-o-Graph

~ 116264 ~

pAwUN.jpg


36-37mm
21j / Clone 2836 / Swiss ETA available

LqWzV.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz, PerfectClones*

~ 116263 ~

1y3vl.jpg


36mm as per Genuine
14k Wrapped Bracelets available
18k Plated available (more common)
Existence of Silver dial unconfirmed

tZ6Xw.jpg

*Picture credit PerfectClones*

Open this link twice in order for it to work.

~ 116261 ~

7uW55.jpg


38mm (36mm unconfirmed)
14k Wrapped Bracelets available
18k Plated available (more common)
Existence of Silver dial unconfirmed

zDS9k.jpg

*Picture credit Perfectclones*

Rolex DateJust I

~ 116200 ~

oDCHC.jpg


26-36mm Available
21j / Clone 2836 / Swiss ETA available
Stainless Steel

nxUdo.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz*


~ 116234 ~

JQE2X.jpg


26-36mm Available
21j / Clone 2836 / Swiss ETA available
Stainless Steel

fUob8.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz*


~ 116233 ~ 116203 ~

AhmdM.jpg


26-36mm Available
21j / Clone 2836 / Swiss ETA available
Stainless Steel / 18k plating / 14 Wrapped bracelet

Cf50l.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz*

~ 116201 ~ 116231 ~

n9hHS.jpg


26-36mm Available
21j / Clone 2836 / Swiss ETA available
Stainless Steel / 18k plating / 14k Wrapped bracelet
Availability of 116201 Pink Etched dial unconfirmed

FqwPy.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz*


~ 116238 ~

KmD6M.jpg


26-36mm Available
21j / Clone 2836 / Swiss ETA available
Stainless Steel / 18k plating

UYcgX.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz*


~ 116138 ~

szYj8.jpg


21j Available
18k plated Stainless Steel
Availability of white and black dials unknown.

9zNSf.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz*


~ 116139 ~

pRmHE.jpg


21j available
Silver dial unconfirmed

tRNgS.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz*


Rolex Date-Just II

To be completed.

~ DateJust Reviews / Eye candy and Wristshots~


External Reference Links


Contributers to this WIKI:

I would like to thank the following people for contacting me and adding to this WIKI page.

AskMeAgain
justloungin
Spirit
txrob779​
 
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ydLNM.gif

*Picture credit AskMeAgain*

~ History~

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date is a COSC certified, self-winding chronometer manufactured by Rolex. Initially presented in 1956, the Day-Date was the first watch to display the date, as well as the day, in its entirety. The Day-Date is one of Rolex's watches that is exclusively offered only in solid 18k yellow gold, 18k white gold, 18k rose gold and platinum. Additionally Rolex manufactures a specific bracelet only available for the Day-Date line, the President bracelet.

~ Movements ~


Please see the above link for more information on the current movements used in Day-Date and Datejust replicas.

21j DG2813
21j DG2812
Asian Clone 2836
ETA 2836
A3156

Rolex Day-Date I

~ 118208 / 118238 ~

LnVlf.jpg


36mm as per gen
Clone/ETA 2836 or 21j movements
18k Gold Plated
Multiple variations or bracelet/bezel/dial available

L4lAR.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz*

~ 118239 ~ 118209 ~ 118339 ~

Aua6H.jpg


36mm as per gen
Clone/ETA 2836 or 21j movements
Stainless Steel case and bracelet
Multiple variations or bracelet/bezel/dial available
Existence of exact 118339 replica unconfirmed

7VbAl.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz*

~ 118205 ~

WbGX7.jpg


36mm as per gen
Clone/ETA 2836 unconfirmed
21j Available
Rose Gold plated case
Multiple variations of bracelet/bezel/dial available
Existence of Black / White dial variations unconfirmed

BOOww.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz*


~ 118206 ~ 118296 ~

9MUuK.jpg


36mm as per gen
Clone/ETA 2836 / 21j Available
Multiple variations of bracelet/bezel/dial available

ydnsh.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz*


Rolex Day-Date II

~ 218238 ~

8Llmu.jpg


41mm as per Genuine
Available 21j - ETA/Clone - Clone 3156 movement
DLC coated 18k plating (claimed better than standard plating)
218238 available in Rose Gold 18k / Yellow Gold unconfirmed

6tSd3.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz*
~ 218239 ~

raW7u.jpg


41mm As per Geniune
Available 21j - ETA/Clone - Clone 3156 movement
Stainless Steel case

1ubMh.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz*

~ 218235 ~

3n6ZW.jpg


41mm As per Genuine
Available 21j - ETA/Clone movement
Stainless steel case w/ Rose Gold plating
218235 Pink set with Diamonds unconfirmed

jcmdT.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz*


~ 218206 ~

476ri.jpg


41mm As per Genuine
Available 21j - ETA/Clone movement
Stainless steel case
Exact Black Concentric dial unconfirmed
Exact Blue dial/hands dial unconfirmed
Exact Blue dial/diamond numerals unconfirmed

ZEf3t.jpg

*Picture credit Watcheden.biz*

~ Day-Date Reviews / Eye candy and Wristshots~
 
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AiDiNpJ.gif


~ 116660 - Deep Sea SeaDweller (DSSD) ~

hO8kU.png


Before you read any further in this thread regarding the DSSD you need to visit the DarthAlex 116600 DSSD MegaThread. This should be your first stop for any information you want and has been a sticky in the Rolex section for a long time and has almost 12,000 views!

~ History ~

YAy8j.png


In the 1950's, Rolex carried out rigorous testing of an experimental dive watch, called "Deep Sea Special". In August 1953, the Deep Sea Special descended to 1,080 meters (approximately 3,543 ft), then to 3,150 meters (approximately 10,334 ft) later the same year, finally reaching 3,700 meters (approximately 12,138 ft) in 1956. in 1960, using the knowledge gained from the making of the first two models, the third Deep Sea Special was created to withstand the most extreme conditions. This was the watch that, strapped to the Bathyscaphe Trieste, was found to be in perfect working order after having reached the Challenger Deep portion of the Mariana Trench at 10,916 meters (35,813 ft) below the surface of the sea.

2RhGC.png


In 1960, the US Navy's experimental bathyscaphe, The Triest, successfully descended in to the Mariana Trench, the deepest know depression on the Earth's surface. With Lieutenant Don Walsh (USN) at the helm, accompanied by Jacques Piccard, the Trieste accomplished a feat so incredible that it forever set the bar for deep sea exploration. Emerging from 10,916 meters (37,800 ft), the bathyscape was in perfect working order - as was the Rolex Deep Sea Special experimental watch that had been attached to the outside during the historic dive. A performance that would cement Rolex's place in history as the maker of the most reliant and reliable watch ever.

AAA7p.png


~ Replica Availability ~

The DSSD has been through at least 7 different versions, each bringing different upgrades. The two current versions (V6.1 and V7 according to dealers) are both still available. The V6 currently has the best case set but the V7 has the best dial markers. You can see the difference between the two dials here; V6.1 dial on the left, V7 dial on the right. As you can see the silver rim around the markers on the V7 are much thinner than on the V6.1. This has lead a number of people to source the V7 dial and transplant the markers over into the better case/dial combination.


tCHtph.png

*Picture credit Puretime.co*

~ DSSD 116660 V6.1 - Noobfactory ~

qpjYI.png



bklm1234 also offers a modified Noobfactory DSSD.
This is a stock noobfactory DSSD (V6.1?) with his usual modifications, excellent QC, datewheel overlay upgrade and guaranteed Swiss Movement.


~ DSSD 116660 V7 - unknown factory ~

kiVTf.png



~ DSSD 116660 BP factory ~

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This is a maker that has pretty much come out of nowhere. Known for creating the IWC Big Pilot range of watches it appears they are now making strides into Noobfactory territory. So far I have seen the 116660, the 116610 LN and LB from this maker. Some highlights are really excellent pearl construction (and centered as well!), AR on the cyclops, perfect lume markers on the dial and excellent end link fitment.


~ Eyecandy, Reviews and information ~


~ Modification Threads ~

~ Deep Sea Challenge ~

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The Deep Sea Challenge watch is essentially a DSSD on steroids. Manufactured specifically for the Deep Sea Challenge expedition set up by National Geographic.




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http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=S3_ycKwBDLI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=AOfS-tzxZAs

This is now available as a replica possibly more for novelty purposes (seeing as there is only a handful made and is stupidly large!)

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Example Rolex Deep Sea Challenger

~ Deep Sea Challenge threads ~


~ The DarthAlex Threads ~

Due to the high amount of awesome threads by DarthAlex in regards to the DSSD I thought it best to include them all (again) as a single list so folk can get to them quickly if needed.


And also applicable to the DSSD


Contributers to this WIKI:

I would like to thank the following people for contacting me and adding to this WIKI page.

DarthAlex
AskMeAgain​
 
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~ Rolex SeaDweller ~

~ History ~


During the 1960s, the needs of professional divers working at great depths led to the development of the first 'ultra water resistant' tool watches designed for conducting safe diving operations at 300 m+ (1,000 ft+) depths. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000 (2000 ft = 610 m) that became available in 1967 was developed from the Submariner for the Comex S.A. industrial deep-sea diving company by increasing crystal thickness and was produced in several variations. It had a depth rating of 610 metres (2,000 ft) and its Rolex reference number was 1665.

Most Sea-Dweller watches incorporate a helium escape valve for saturation diving. Early Sea-Dwellers did not always have the helium escape valve. The model is also distinguished by the absence of the date magnifier ("cyclops") present on most other Rolex models. The Sea-Dweller diving watch range has been standard issue for Comex divers since 1977. The Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000 watches had 2 red text lines on the watch dial which led to an unofficial "Double Red" designation under watch collectors for these watches.

The Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000 models were succeeded by the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller 4000 (4000 ft = 1220 m) model with an increased depth rating to 1,220 metres (4,000 ft). The last Comex Sea-Dweller 4000 Rolex reference number is 16600 and this watch was issued to Comex divers since 1992. Several semi custom production runs of Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000 and 4000 models were produced with and without helium escape valves and differing watch dial patterns for the Comex S.A. company. These variants sometimes also had differing Rolex reference numbers. Some of these non standard Sea-Dweller watches had the Comex S.A. logo depicted on the watch dail which led to an unofficial "COMEX watches" designation under watch collectors for these watches. These watches were either issued to actual Comex staff members or served as gifts for business relations.

At the BaselWorld watch and jewellery show 2008, Rolex introduced an updated Sea-Dweller model, named the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA. Its reference number is 116660. With an official depth rating of 3,900 metres (12,800 ft), the Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA represented in its launch year the most water resistant mechanical watch in serial production. For obtaining this official depth rating the Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA water resistance is tested to a depth of 4,875 metres (15,994 ft) to offer the 25% safety reserve required by the ISO 6425 divers' watches standard. To test the water resistance of the Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA, Rolex uses testing equipment developed for them by Comex.[6] Normal surface air filled watch cases and crystals designed for extreme depths must be dimensionally large to cope with the encountered water pressure. To obtain its water resistance the Rolex Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA watch case has a diameter of 44.0 mm (1.73 in) mm, thickness of 17.7 mm (0.70 in) (domed crystal thickness 5.5 mm (0.22 in)) and the case and bracelet weigh 220 g.

~Movements~


Please see the above link for information on the current movements found in Seadweller and DSSD replicas.

21j DG2813
Asian Clone 2836
Asian Clone 2836 "Superclone"
Swiss ETA 2836
Swiss Sellita 240 (26J)
ETA 3135 (A3135)

~ Interesting Rolex Sea-Dweller Facts ~

The Rolex Sea-Dweller is the only model of Rolex with a date, but without the date magnifier. The date magnifier often referred to as the bubble!

The Sea-Dweller is the only Rolex with writing on the caseback. It says “ROLEX OYSTER†and “ORIGINAL ESCAPE VALVEâ€.

The additional thickness of the Sea-Dweller’s case beyond that of the Submariner is to accommodate the helium escape valve.

The bulbous shape of the hour hand which Rolex uses on many of their sport models allows it to be seen while directly under the minute hand. This may seem like an unnecessary detail, but it’s actually a great, widely copied, and under appreciated design. It also makes the hour hand more easily distinguishable in low light.

Rolex is one of the few remaining Swiss watchmakers who still makes their own movements. Most brands purchase either movements, or movement kits, from companies like ETA. Rolex, however, designs and builds everything but a few oils themselves.

Rolex is a privately held company which donates a great deal of it’s profits to charity.

Rolex Sea-Dweller has never had any marking or engraving in the inner ring of the watch.

~ 16660 / Tripple Six ~

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The 16660 was a transitional model for Rolex. It spans the move from the vintage 1665 to the 16600 models. Early models have matt dials from the 1665 but dials soon transitioned into the classic gloss finish with white gold luminous surrounds.

Brief History of the Rolex Sea Dweller 16660

In 1978 a new Sea-Dweller 4000 was launched – the ref. 16660. Fitted with a flat profile sapphire crystal, the 3035 movement and a larger improved gas escape valve, resulting in a depth rating of 1220 meters / 4000 feet.

The first couple of years the dial of the ref. 16660 had a matte black finish with flat hour markers. From around 1983 the dial had the same look as the present day Sea-Dweller 4000.

For reasons unknown to others than Rolex the ref. 16660 was manufactured concurrently with its successor the ref. 16600 from 1986 to 1988.

The ref. 16600 was introduced by the end of 1988 and was fitted with a cal. 3135 movement – the only real difference compared to its predecessor the ref. 16660.

16660 came with caliber: 3035 - since 1977 it was considered to be the work-horse of most men's perpetual Rolex watches. It could be found in Datejust, Submariner, Sea-Dweller & others until the introduction of caliber 3135 in 1988.

Sea Dweller 16660 was also the first steel Rolex to introduced solid end links. And first SD with a sapphire crystal, increasing the depth rating to 4,000 feet.

~ Replica Availability ~

Currently there is no good out of the box 16660 replica available. Some people have built 16660 with either SSD (NoobFactory discontinued) or the new Superlume SD. This involves drilling lug holes in a fresh case and finding a matt dial or tritium look gloss dial and a new datewheel. Some folks have made a start on modding this rep but finding a machinist capable and equipped to drill accurate and fresh lug holes in a case is more difficult than sourcing the parts.


~ 16600 - Classic SeaDweller ~

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The 16600 Sea-Dweller is a stainless steel automatic dive watch on a bracelet. It is a discontinued model, having been superseded by the 116660 Deepsea in 2008. The original Sea-Dweller (SD), was developed by Rolex and, famously, COMEX, as a higher water resistance version of the Submariner suitable for saturation diving. The 16600 was introduced in 1978.

The greatest visual differences between the SD and the Submariner are the lack of cyclops over the date and the automatic helium escape valve (HEV) opposite the crown. The SD is the only sports Rolex with date and no cyclops, so lack of cyclops is probably the most obvious differentiator. The HEV is also quite visible, and it is constructed from Titanium.

40mm As per gen
Triplock Crown
Fliplock bracelet with Diver extension
Solid Mid Link bracelet
SEL
Sapphire Crystal
Green Superlume

~ Super SeaDweller (SSD - Noobfactory) ~

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*Picture credit Q5?*

The original and best of the SeaDweller replicas. This was a run of pieces that went out of production a few years ago. Getting your hands on one requires a bit of patience and keeping an eagle eye on the sales forums. The benifits of this version over the newer version is the ability to take a genuine size dial and crystal (Also confirmed on new Superlume version).

~ MBW SeaDweller ~

Not a common model, and not one that I have seen mentioned more than once or twice. MWB was a factory that produced not very accurate replicas but they could be modded to be very good due to accepting genuine parts.

Last mention of MBW SeaDweller circa 2010 that I can find

~ WM9 SeaDweller ~

This watch has never appeared from the pre-order list. Originally started in 2010 by bklm1234 via George at the WM9 factory. A lot of people lost out on money for this watch because George dissapeared.


~ Superlume SeaDweller ~

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*Picture credit Wiz*

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*Picture credit Wiz*

This is the newest release from the factories. This features a much more accurate case set and a nice non-wokky rehaut. Back in 2011 people were shouting for a new classic SeaDweller replica. The SSD from the noobfactory had long been discontinued and only way to get one was through member sales. People even went as far as starting petitions in the Rolex forum. This is currently the top standard for SeaDweller reps.




All of the trusted dealers should be able to get this one for you and it is definitely a must have in any serious Rolex collectors box. Sort it out with a gen crown and a watchmaterial pearl and you have a very accurate replica.

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*Picture credit Puretime.co*


Update 08/05/2013 - Updated pearl on Superlume SeaDweller

Quietly released into the wild without any update from the factories is the much needed and sought after mod on the classic SeaDweller. The pearl, which is always a problem with Rolex replicas, has now been updated and seems to have a clear glass covering. With this already being a great replica out of the box it has now been made even better. This is available with a high beat 21j movement for under $200, and also with the modified A3186 and A2836 clone movements. For more information you can read through this massive thread;


~ Eyecandy and information ~
 
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Rolex & Tudor Vintage Guide


I will say this right now; this is not an exhaustive guide to vintage Rolex models. There is massive variation on dials/bezels/case shapes etc. that is far too in depth to cover in this basic WIKI page. All this information is out there, or has been previously collected by members of this and other forums. If you wish to research further on a specific model then I wish you well. It’s a minefield out there!

Vintage case sets vary in price and quality and accuracy. As in all the other replicas there is no such thing as 1:1. It is up to you to decide if you think a piece is accurate enough for what you want to do. You can find cheaper 21j based models (usually inaccurate) for <$100 or go for a custom build watch in the thousands depending on the parts you use. Here are some frequently mentioned parts vendors for vintage parts. Out of all of these only YukiWatch is a supporting vendor on the forum so you are advised to research the seller or be very aware that you will receive no support from the admin if a deal goes wrong.

~ “Aftermarket” parts ~

http://ingod44.com/
Seller of aftermarket dials/case sets

http://www.yukiwatch.com/
Supporting vendor on RWI; seller of aftermarket dials/case sets/hands/misc. parts. Also sells clone 3135 movement and genuine parts.

http://jewelryandwatch.com/
aka Phong; seller of high end dials/case sets/crown+tube/full build watches. Very expensive.

http://ndtradingcorp.com/zen/
Seller of aftermarket dials/hands/case sets/crown+tube/spares and movements

http://www.vintagewatchesmq.com/
aka Minh; aftermarket dials etc

http://www.rafflestime.com/servlet/StoreFront
Cheap alternative to sourcing parts through dealers or forums. Has both sterile and branded versions of most parts. Dials/hands/case sets etc.

http://www.watchlume.net/
Sells vintage tone lume as well as other lume products.

Athaya Watch Parts (Homageforum.com)
Source for 8mm Brevet crown/tube combo

http://www.helenarou.com/
Sells sterile case sets for use in custom builds as well as some parts/dials

For the below vendors please never mention replicas in any of your communications. These are legitimate sellers who will not deal with you should you intimate you are involved in anything illegal.

http://www.classicwatchparts.com/
Seller of aftermarket parts; inserts and hands etc

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Clark-Watch-Parts
eBay store selling lots of misc stuff for vintage builds, excellent aftermarket Tropic crystals

http://www.network54.com/Forum/207673/
Vintage Rolex Market (VRM); you will get ripped off here but might be your only chance to pick up genuine or rare parts.

https://www.cousinsuk.com/
Supplier of aftermarket tubes/crystals and various watch making tools

http://www.ofrei.com/
Supplier of aftermarket tubes/crystals and various watch making tools


General Vintage work guides.

These are threads created by our very own members, myself included, in order to help you create your very own vintage piece. Many more threads can be found in the Vintage section sub-forum, or the Modifications & Repairs / Tutorials sub-sections.

Vintage Watches Forum Sub-section
http://forum.replica-watch.info/vb/f...play.php?f=124

Modificatons and Tutorials sub-section
http://forum.replica-watch.info/vb/f...splay.php?f=53

~ Some commonly used case sets and their source ~

Disclaimer: a lot of this information is from my own experiences and from reading on the forum. If somehow the information is wrong because the supplier or dealer has changed the product then I cannot be held responsible. You will NEVER know if a product is what they say it is until you have it in your hands.

Cartel

This is used to describe case sets sold by Andrew and Josh (aka the Cartel). They are not trusted dealers on this forum and you should be advised that in using them you are not supported by the forum admin should something go wrong. There are a few case sets that stand out as being worthwhile for vintage builds. These should be available from our own trusted dealers.

Cartel 5512 - Genuine bezel assembly style, plexi pearl, takes genuine size dial, has short stubby crownguards that need some serious re-working to look good (see RolexAddict build). Retaining ring will need to be modified to take genuine crystal sizes.

Cartel 5513 - Genuine bezel assembly style, plexi pearl, takes genuine size dial, has short stubby crownguards that need some serious re-working to look good (see RolexAddict build). Retaining ring will need to be modified to take genuine crystal sizes.

Cartel 1680 - Almost genuine bezel assembly, comes with plastic gasket. Nice long crownguards that provide a good base for re-shaping and modification. Takes genuine size dials. Supplied with low beat Swiss 2846 movement (vintage, not new, condition varies)

Cartel 1665 - Almost genuine bezel assembly, comes with plastic gasket. Nice long crownguards that provide a good base for re-shaping and modification. Takes genuine size dials. Supplied with low beat Swiss 2846 movement (vintage, not new, condition varies)

MBK/MBW

Only available through Narikaa from Thailand, or as part of the Member to member sales. Old school case sets might have smaller than genuine dial openings. Expensive but accurate case sets for builds. Generally takes genuine dial sizes, genuine crystals etc.

Puretime.co

Angus at Puretime has several very nice vintage Rolex offerings. Unfortunately these are the last ones you should pick if you want to modify them easily. If you want something that looks good straight out of the box then these are the ones to go for. If you want to modify with aftermarket or genuine parts then I would avoid. Tubes on the 1680/1665 should take genuine crowns without modification.

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Vintage Rolex Watches

Explorer I – 1016

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The 1016 Explorer was the longest running of all the models, being in production from 1963 right through to 1989. During this period it did not, however, remain unchanged. The first model (in production from the start to around 1975) used the basic caliber 1560, but, as is the general Rolex policy, there were certain updates and modifications. The second version of the 1016 was really the second version of the 1560 caliber (now renamed 1570), because the major recognizable difference is in the movement. The "hack" feature, stops the second hand when the winding crown is pulled out to the hand setting position. By stopping the hand at the "12" position, it is possible to synchronize your time with that of a known source, a radio or telephone time signal for example.

Simultaneously with the movement change, Rolex introduced the new Oyster bracelet. It had links machined from solid steel, instead of the folded sheet steel of earlier bracelets. In this revised form the Explorer continued through to 1989, when, to the astonishment of the Rolex retailers, it was removed from the new catalogue.

You can check the below threads for building a 1016 replica. They range from the <$100 area to franken or custom pieces. The majority of good ones are custom builds using genuine DateJust case sets as they have the advantage of taking a genuine dial and also have pre-drilled lug holes.


~ Space-Dweller ~

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The 1016 also exists with another name on the dial: "Space Dweller." The model was first introduced into the Japanese market in 1963, just after a visit to Japan by the Mercury astronauts. A trial run of Space Dwellers was made to honour these men, who were (at that time) seen as the ultimate explorers. The watch was not a major seller, either in Japan or elsewhere, and very few of the watches so signed have ever surfaced.

This is a very rare bird indeed as far as replicas go. There are no ‘off the shelf’ replicas of the Space Dweller available. Your only option is to go for a custom build. On top of that there is also no good off the shelf 1016 replicas to use as a base watch. This is primarily due to almost all 1016 Explorer I case sets without lug holes which is a major tell. If you can source an experienced machinist to drill out the lugs to accept the springbars then you are on the right path.


~ Explorer II – 1655 ~

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Introduced in the early 1970s as model 1655, it is essentially a GMT-Master with a fixed bezel. Using the same caliber 1575 movement as a GMT- Master, it also had a fourth hand which rotated once every 24 hours, however on the Explorer II the hour was read from this from a fixed, engraved 24 hour steel bezel. The watch was introduced as being especially useful for the speleologist (or cave explorer), who, Rolex claimed "soon loses all notion of time: morning, afternoon, day, or night.” For these intrepid souls Rolex developed the watch which would tell them whether the "2" on the dial was 2:00 a.m. or 2:00 p-m. (14:00 hrs.). This may well be true, and perhaps cave dwellers are more susceptible to losing track of time than others. We would suggest, however, that the demand for a watch specifically targeted at speleologists would find a tiny market, and that even its limited popularity was due to its acceptance by others who work in civilian and 24 hour time systems, such as pilots and air traffic controllers. The watch went through two styles. The first, made for only three years, used an orange 24 hour hand, and the following model, made until 1985, used a red one. The 1655 Explorer II and the 1019 Milgauss are the only Rolex models which use hands that are used by no other model.

This watch is also known as the Steve McQueen Explorer but for no good reason at all. Steve McQueen never wore the Explorer II but was well known for wearing a 5512. Many different case sets are available, as always with vintage, generally the more expensive the more accurate but there are a lot of cheaper options available.


Milgauss

~ Milgauss 6541 ~

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The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Milgauss is a wristwatch model introduced by Rolex in 1956 with model number 6451. With the progress of modern science and technology, as well as the maturity of electromagnetic technology, the watch’s application was also facing a new challenge. More and more scientists and technicians were exposed to the electromagnetic working condition, in order to successfully complete their precise working content, a reliable watch was needed to compute the time accurately. Unfortunately, in the electromagnetic environment, which was more than 60 to 70 Gauss, the traditional watches they were wearing were easily affected by electromagnetism and walked at random. When the electromagnetic intensity was greater than 1000 Gauss, the movement completely stopped. Rolex decided to accept such technical challenge, researched and developed a watch with high anti-magnetic ability, after several years of researching and striving, Rolex finally invented Milgauss.

Most of the existing 6541 Milgauss had a bezel with black scales, which was similar to the early Submariner watch, the unique Lightning Bolt second hand with a small red arrow at the top, 6541 Milgauss was made in 1958; it was equipped with Caliber 1080, which were 25 jewelled. The dial of Milgauss 6541 had distinctive honeycomb decoration, 3-6-9 hour markers were triangular and made of steel, the other hour markers were radium-coated rounded dots. Milgauss used Oyster case and bracelet, its anti-magnetic property depended on the protection from the soft iron in the three-tiered case, the dial was also made of soft iron, the screwed down case back had an extra cross-shaped accessory.

There is no perfect out of the box 6541 as with most other vintage reps.

~ Milgauss 1019 ~

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In 1960, the second generation of Milgauss, Oyster Perpetual Milgauss Ref. 1019, was officially unveiled, it was equipped with Caliber 1580 movement, which was 26 jewelled. Ref. 1019 cancelled the black-scaled bezel of Milgauss Ref. 6541, the hour markers were changed into rectangular metal markers, the second hand also gave up Lightning Bolt and used linear hand, but it still had a red arrow. The case diameter of 1019 Milgauss was 38mm, not only 1019 Milgauss could be anti-magnetic to 1000 Gauss, but it was also water resistant to 50m. Milgauss 1019 was discontinued in 1980, which drew the ending song of whole Milgauss series.

A simple synopsis of this model revels to us that only two dials were ever issued for this reference. A silver and black dial was the only chosen options a buyer had on this model.
The 1019 featured two types of minute and hour hands. The early 1019 hands featured a gloss polished hour and minute hand built out of an antimagnetic material. The later hands had an aluminium matte textured hour and minute hand. Oddly enough the 1019 straight second hand with a red arrow tip and apparently been used on the early and later 1019 model run.
 
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Submariner


~ General notes on Big Crown / No Crownguard builds ~

Finding an accurate big crown submariner case set is difficult. Over the past two years I have built almost 20 of these watches all in the budget range. They are not very accurate but can be fun to build and modify. All of the case sets that I used came from Silix (Silix Vendor Section) in the Economy Watches section there are a variety of case sets and dial styles to choose from. There are downsides to these cheaper case sets however. The case construction is not accurate or gen like. The bezel is quite thin and the crowns are not accurate either. They will have the cheap paperclip construction which can be difficult to remove and can be easily damaged if done incorrectly. I would advise reading through some of the construction threads to see how others have dealt with these case sets.

Some excellent upgrades would be the addition of an Athaya 8mm Brevet crown (see parts dealers section above) as well as a new plexi crystal from either Clark/Sternkreuz/Ofrei. Due to the nature of the bezel assembly this will need to be shaved down in height in order to look correct. None of these models come with the correct plexi bezel pearl so that is another excellent additions (see Yukiwatch or Ofrei).

Another option (without buying a $1000 super case set) is the new 6538 released by Helenarou (http://www.helenarou.com/). Although the price is high it is a great case set. You are able to order a sterile version or a branded version for another $75. The sterile case set without movement starts at $289 and would be a great base for a vintage build. The only detractor is that it comes with a sapphire crystal which would need to be replaced out with a plexi in order to be accurate.

~ Submariner 6200 ~

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Reference 6200 lived only a short life. Launched in 1953. Depth rated to 200m (660 ft) with an 8mm crown. No crown guard and no depth rating on dial. Submariner not printed on dial. Dial similar to Explorer style dials of same period. Non-Chronometer A296 movement with 18 Jewels. Larger case than the 6204 or 6205. Larger crown marked Brevet.

Updated in 1955. Depth rated to 200m (660 ft) with an 8mm crown. No crown guard and no depth rating on dial. Submariner printed on dial. Included the Mercedes hands. Non-Chronometer A296 movement with 18 Jewels. Larger case than the 6536 or 6538. Larger crown marked Brevet.


~ Submariner 6204 ~

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Rolex introduced the Submariner at the 1954 Basel Watch Fair. The first production model, available for sale to the public that same year, was the reference 6204. The 6204 looked almost identical to a similar Rolex watch, the Turn-O-Graph reference 6202. The reference 6204 was water resistant to 600 feet, and used the Rolex Caliber A260 movement. Depth rated to 100m (330 ft) with a 6mm crown. No crown guard and no depth rating on dial. Submariner printed on dial. Dial revised from 6200. Used the upgraded non-chronometer A260 movement with 18 Jewels. Smaller than the 6200.

Updated in 1954. Depth rated to 100m (330 ft) with a 6mm crown. No crown guard and no depth rating on dial. Model name "blacked-out." Non-Chronometer A260 movement with 18 Jewels. Smaller than the 6200

~ Submariner 6205 ~

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Launched in 1954. Depth rated to 100m (330 ft) with a 6mm crown. No crown guard and no depth rating on dial. Model name not present on dial. Dial revised from 6200. Used the upgraded A260 movement. Same size as the 6204. Smaller than the 6200

Updated in 1955. Depth rated to 100m (330 ft) with 6mm crown. No crown guard however depth rating now printed on dial (white). Model name present on dial. A260 movement. Smaller than the 6200


~ Submariner 6538 ~

Hands-On With A Four-Line Tropical Big Crown Submariner - Hodinkee

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Reference 6538 followed less than two years later, which was rated as water resistant to 660 feet. This watch was the first Submariner to use the "Mercedes" hands and the oversized "Trip Lock" crown, which have been in use ever since. Launched in 1955. Upgrade of the 6205 model. Depth rated to 100m (330 ft) with the 8mm crown. No crown guard and no depth rating on dial. Submariner printed on dial. Movement upgraded to the non-chronometer 1030 with 25 Jewels.

Updated in 1956. Depth rated to 100m (330 ft) with a 8mm crown. No crown guard however depth rating now printed on dial (white). Submariner also printed on dial. Non-Chronometer 1030 movement. First time Bezel contained markers for first 15 minutes.

~ Submariner 6536 ~

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There was also a reference 6536, which looks exactly like the 6538, mechanically and cosmetically, but the 6536 was only rated water resistant to 330 feet. (For collectors, it is exactly this type of variety that makes the Submariner such a collectable model). The 6538 was produced from 1954 -1959 and carried the Rolex caliber 1030; while the reference 6536 was produced from 1955 -1959 and also housed the caliber 1030. These two references are the so-called "James Bond" Submariners. One other note: the 6538 reference had its own evolution, as the production of this model for the first two years was not C.O.S.C. chronometer certified, the last three years of production of this reference did bear the "Officially Certified Chronometer" on its dial. (I believe this was the first Submariner to display this now familiar inscription/certification.).

Finally, it's interesting to note that both of the above references shared the caliber 1030, while only the final three years of production of the 6538 were C.O.S.C. certified. This suggests two learning points: first, that the presence or absence of the C.O.S.C. certification in the same caliber does not imply any difference in quality. Second, C.O.S.C. certification does have merit in terms of confirming calibers accuracy, but it at least as much a marketing device as anything else, since the 6538 had a higher price than the 6536, when by all appearances the watches are identical.


~ Submariner 5508 ~

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Reference 5508 appeared about 1957-58, and this watch is actually the reference 6536, but with the new 5508 reference number. This reference number change was made to evolve all Submariners into 55XX reference numbers starting in the late 1950s. which would last through 1990, when the last 55XX models were last produced.

Until this point, Submariner dials had what is called "Gilt" printing, which means the colour of the text was gold. Furthermore, the dials also had various patterns. Some had the same hour markers in use today, while other had Explorer-style dials with 3-6-9 style dials. Still others had chapter rings around the minute markers, while other dials lacked this chapter ring. The bezel triangle at the 12 o’clock position on watches up until this point was red. Furthermore, the bezels themselves on the preceding Submariners had various gradation patterns. Finally, all preceding models did not have crown guards.

The reference 55XX series, which started with the 5508, standardized these previous inconsistencies. All cases now had integral (i.e.: solid metal rising up from the case and NOT soldered on) crown guards. All dials now had white coloured printing (with an exception occurring with the later and now infamous "Red" Submariners and "Red" SeaDwellers). All bezels now had one minute gradations from one minute to 15 minutes and then 5 minute gradations from the 20 minute through the 55 minute positions). All bezel triangles were now silver.


~ Submariner 5510 ~

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Launched in 1958. Upgrade to the 6200 model. Depth rated to 200m (660 ft) with the 8mm crown. No crown guard and depth rating printed on dial. Submariner printed on dial. New Chronometer 1530 movement. Arabic Numeral markers on dial. Red triangle marker above 12.
Updated in 1964. Depth rated to 200m (660 ft) with the 8mm crown. No crown guard. Depth rating printed on dial. Printing on dial changed to white.


~ Submariner 5512 ~

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In 1959 the reference 5512 was introduced. This reference was produced from 1959 through 1978, and with four calibers used over the years: Calibers 1520, 1530, 1560 and 1570. While I do not know if the reference 5512 carried the C.O.S.C. certification for its entire product lifespan, it did have the chronometer certification for many years through the end of production.



~ Submariner 5513 ~

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The reference 5513 was introduced in 1962, and replaced the reference 5508. The 5513 was produced from 1962 through June or so of 1990, which must be one of the longest continually produced references in Rolex history. The reference 5513 used calibers 1520 and 1530. Curiously, the caliber 1530 was used in both the 5513 and 5512 calibers for a time. The 5512 carried the C.O.S.C. certification while the 5513 using the same caliber did not have the chronometer certification. Today, the 5513 is one of the most collectable Submariners, and while it is still accessibly priced, market prices have almost doubled from 2003 to 2005.

For 5513 Milsub see 5517

It is worth noting that none of the Submariners discussed so far had a date complication.


~ Submariner 5514 ~

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For more in depth information on Comex 5514, or Comex in general please visit this external site - The Comex Story

Meanwhile, the non-date Submariners underwent several new iterations. Reference 5514 was produced from 1969 through 1977, and like the reference 5513, used caliber 1520. This reference denotes that this is a COMEX model.

~ Submariner 5513/5517 Milsub ~

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Many watch manufacturers have made watches for the military outfits around the world, but the Rolex watches made especially for the Royal Navy in the 1970's have captivated Rolex collectors. The general consensus is that approximately about 1200 watches were made and unfortunately many did not survive and of those that survive only several hundred remains in their original configuration. While the dial is a regular 5513 dial the most distinctive modification if the large "T" in a circle above the depth markings at the six o'clock position. This was to indicate the presence of tritium for the markers.

The hands are unique on this model and are often referred to as "sword" hands. They are very similar to the hands from the Omega Seamaster and are often used by some people to replace them but the seasoned collector will be able to tell due to some basic differences in the shape and length. Rolex does not make sword hands anymore and their stock in not available. The hands due to their larger surface area and content of tritium often are prone to flaking or oxidation.
The bezel is a standard production but the insert in many watches is a specially manufactured one with minute markings around the whole insert. This is unique for the military subs.

The case is a regular 5513 but the spring bars are fixed with metal bars to fit a NATO strap.

There were several configurations of mil subs that are considered correct and original depending on the age and batch.

- The 5513 milsub was delivered with either sword hands or Mercedes hands from new
- The 5513 milsub came with either full 60 minute bezel insert or 15 min bezel insert from new.
- The 5517 milsub was delivered ONLY with sword hands and full 60 minute bezel

~ Submariner 1680 ~

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In 1965, Rolex introduced the caliber 1565, which was both C.O.S.C. certified and had a date display. In 1971, Rolex iterated the caliber to include hacking (meaning the seconds hand stops when the crown is pulled out for time setting). The 1565 caliber lead to a new model series, the 168X series. Reference 1680 was introduced in 1965 or 1966 and had the chronometer status and a date display. This also introduced the Cyclops date magnifier to the Submariner line. The 1680 also marked the philosophical transition of the Submariner from a pure "tool watch" built for serious divers to also being built and sold as a luxury sports watch. I say this, because the 1680 was the first reference to be sold in a steel and gold version ("two-tone" or "bi-metal") and also in an 18 carat gold model.

Some notes on the 1680 Submariner should you decide to build one, or buy one. There are two basic versions of this watch that people aim to build. This would be the single red submariner and the great white. As always case sets vary in quality and price and you are best to do some serious research should you want to build something as close to accurate as possble. I suggest that you have a read through this website and gain some very valuable knowledge.


~ GMT Master ~

In short: the Pan-Am company was looking for a watch that was able to display multiple time zones at the same time, as they started to operate transatlantic flights. Having an accurate wrist watch was an absolute necessity for pilots in those days; Rolex was able to give it to them.
As we know now, the GMT-Master wasn’t only popular amongst Pan-Am pilots (or civil aviation), also NASA and US Air Force pilots started wearing them. Also business people who travelled to different time zones started wearing the Rolex GMT-Master, as reading home time and local time at the same time has a positive [mental] effect on fighting jet lags.

~ GMT 6542 ~

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The first GMT-Master in production ever was the ref.6542 and was introduced in 1954, in the same year as Pan Am took the Boeing 707 in operation. It featured a Bakelite bezel (which was replaced after two years by an aluminium bezel because it cracked very easily) and had no crown guards. The James Bond fan also might recognize this watch as it was on the wrist of Pussy Galore in the Goldfinger movie. The Rolex GMT-Master ref.6542 was in production till 1959.


~ GMT Master 1675 ~

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Perhaps one of the most popular vintage Rolex GMT-Master watches is this ref.1675. Introduced in 1959 and was in production till 1980, indeed a very long time. This is [most probably] also the reason why you can find a vintage ref.1675 GMT-Master in decent condition without a hassle. Some Rolex collectors do prefer a more worn version like the one pictured above. Till the late 1960s, the extra hour hand featured a small triangle and was succeeded by a red hand with a larger triangle through-out the 1970s. Early models also featured pointed crown guards and a chapter ring. It was also the first Rolex sports watch that became available on both the Oyster and Jubilee bracelet. The GMT-Master 1675 can be found in all types of editions, with gilt dials but with custom logos as well; the Oman Marine Ministry, Tiffany & Co and probably others as well. Also in limited and rare version is the 'blueberry' with a blue bezel insert. Supposedly a limited issue to armed forces but when that issue ended the blue inserts were made available to service centers for general use.


1665 Sea-Dweller

A brief history of Sea Dweller (No photos) by Debellum

If you're looking to research any of the Sea Dweller models then your first stop should be this website http://www.doubleredseadweller.com/. This has all the information on dials and case sets that you could possibly need in order to replicate the that you want.

The Rolex Sea-Dweller was developed in close collaboration with the French deep sea diving company COMEX. Their divers required a timing instrument that could withstand their working depths, plus be able to remain intact in ascent and decompression. Most of the watches manufactured at that time could not tolerate the extreme depths. Helium gas would build up inside the case and at decompression the gas pressure would increase. The rising inner pressure would eventually be released by breaking the crystal, the weakest point in the case design.

Rolex first developed the helium release valve in the 1960s and incorporated it into some of their Submariner watches delivered to the French diving company, COMEX. The testing of these specially adapted Submariner 5513 models was so successful that Rolex specifically made a batch of watches for COMEX and the watch was given an official model number, 5514. This was such a success that Rolex decided to market the watch as model number 1665 by 1967.

The 1665 was initially rushed to production and some early watches were sent to dealers for promotion or early sales. Some authorities state that the number is less, about 150, while others argue that the number is much larger and that several hundred may have been made.

The helium valve had been developed and the patent had been applied, but Rolex had not received final approval. Therefore, the engraving on the caseback of these early sea dwellers stated in parenthesis “Patent Pending.”

Regular production of the double red sea dwellers started in 1971 and ended in approximately 1977.

The Sea-Dweller is characterised by it's HEV and the superdome T39 crystal. It's also the only Rolex sports watch to feature a date but no magnification cyclops.

The Double Red Sea-Dweller

There are at least seven different variations of the DRSD dials that were sold to the public.

There are dials with only a single line in red, and other dials with two lines of red without "2000." Early Sea-Dwellers did not always have the helium escape valve. You can find more about these variations here: The Double Red SeaDweller Dials.

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~ The Great White Sea-Dweller ~

As with most things Rolex, there are no “exact” dates, serial numbers, etc. so take that into consideration when reading the following... Somewhere around the 5.3 Mil mark in late 1977 the DRSD (1665) became what many people like to call “The Great White”.

-Away went the RED lettering....To be replaced with WHITE lettering...

-Away went the words: “SUBMARINER 2000” -The case back was also altered....

The word ROLEX no longer ran across the case back but around the outer edge and is now flanked by two Rolex crowns.

The watch retained it’s silver date wheel and nice beefy case with gas escape valve.

There were four regularly excepted Tritium dial configurations:

-The MK1 which ran into the early 6 mil.

-The Rail Dial

-MK 2 from about mid. 6mil.

The font has changed.

The “ft” & “m” markings are now larger and italicized.

The “6” is now “closed”

-MK 3:

Somewhere in 1978 or 1979 this dial came out and was produced along with the MK 2 but in much lower numbers.....

-New Font and layout -”ft” & “m” are smaller The “6” is open.

-There were also two versions of a Luminova replacement dial that Rolex made available.

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QueTip

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~ Daytona ~


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The Rolex Chronograph Reference 6234 was introduced in 1955–coincidentally, the same year Rolex introduced the Rolex GMT Master.The Rolex Chronograph Reference 6234 was made from 1955 to 1961, and during those 6 years Rolex averaged approximately 500 per year. The Reference 6234 is the great grandfather of the modern stainless steel Rolex Daytona.

Rolex originally registered the name "Cosmograph" in 1953, and it was first placed on a watch dial in 1956 on a complicated Moonphase. Rolex historically used the word "Chronograph" on the dial of their chronograph watches and then one day in the late 1960s they changed it from Rolex Chronograph to Rolex Cosmograph.

The rarest versions of the Rolex Daytona are the first versions, those whose reference number contains four digit references, produced from 1961 to 1987. The 6238, 6239, 6241 and 6262 References were the first versions, and were not "Oyster" versions, they did not have a screw down winding crown or screw down timing buttons. The movement used was a manual wind Valjoux cal. 72, named the Rolex Cal. 722. Later versions use a movement based on the manual wind Valjoux cal. 72, but with some refinements, and was called the Rolex Cal. 727.

1963 - ref. 6239 - push down pushers / metal bezel / 300 UPH + 200 UPH
1965 - ref. 6240 - screw down pushers / crown / plastic bezel insert
1966 - ref. 6241 - push down pushers / screw down crown / plastic bezel insert
1970 - ref. 6262 - push down pushers / metal bezel / 200 UPH / Cal 727 movement
1970 - ref. 6264 - push down pushers / plastic bezel insert / Cal 727 movement
1971 - ref. 6263 - screw down pushers / crown / plastic bezel insert
1971 - ref. 6265 - screw down pushers / crown / metal bezel / 200 UPH
1984 - ref. 6269 - screw down pushers / 18 kt gold case / diamond bezel
1984 - ref. 6270 - screw down pushers / 18 kt gold case / diamond bezel

The rarest Daytona's are those with the so-called "Paul Newman" dial. Its distinguishing features are subtle and often unnoticeable to the untrained eye. First, a Paul Newman dial must be in a Reference 6239, 6241, 6262, 6263, 6264 or 6265 watch, installed by Rolex Geneva as original. All of these References had acrylic domed crystals. That aside, the sub-dials (the dials that are the opposite or contrasting color of the main dial) of a Paul Newman dial have block markers instead of lines, will have cross hairs across each sub-dial meeting at center (unlike the normal Daytona), and the seconds sub-dial placed at 9:00 is marked at 15, 30, 45 and 60, whereas a normal Daytona dial is marked at 20, 40 and 60. The dial may or may not have the word "Daytona" written on the dial above the hour sub-dial located at 6:00. The dial came in four color and layout combinations, and was installed as an option by Rolex.

~ Vintage Daytona Replicas ~

The two big names that you will come across when researching any vintage Rolex Daytona's will be David Wong (DW) and Spinmaster. Spinmaster uses the DW cases and provides some upgrades as the case set is easily upgraded. It will take genuine crystals and pushers as well as a genuine V72 movement should you find one. One of the biggest tells on a vintage Daytona is the pusher spacing. The DW mimics the genuine. Neither of these guys are trusted dealers on this forum so you should use at your own risk if you manage to get in contact with them (Warning : Read this before dealing with dw – a cautionary tale.).

~ Replica Movements ~

There is generaly 3 x movement options for these vintage Daytona reps.

V32 / V72 "mystery movement" - The DW case has the correct spacing for the genuine V72 movement. It comes complete with a hand winding movement of unknown origin.

A7750 - Automatic chronograph movement. Using this movement makes the case too thick (true on modern replica Daytonas as well) Spinmaster takes this watch and removes the autowinding parts to create a manual wind watch.

Lemania / Venus 32 - Handwound movement. Bulletproof construction but unfortunately only a bi-compax watch. The sub-dial register is modified by the factory to be a 24 hour hand but this can be frozen if needed.



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Vintage Tudor Watches

Montres Tudor SA has designed, manufactured and marketed Tudor brand watches since March 6, 1946. Rolex founder Hans Wildorf conceived of the Tudor Watch Company to create a product for authorized Rolex dealers to sell that offered the reliability and dependability of a Rolex, but at a lower price. Tudor brand watches are manufactured by Montres Tudor SA using movements supplied by ETA SA. Tudor brand watches are marketed and sold in most countries around the world including Australia, Canada, India, Mexico, South Africa, most countries in Europe, South Asia, the Middle East and countries South America, particularly Brazil, Argentina and Venezuela.

Tudor Ranger

Of all the watches from the Rolex Tudor stable, none is as controversial as the Tudor Ranger. Tudor retained the name Submariner on their watches, right through until the introduction of the Hydronaut. Interestingly, they did not use the Explorer moniker on their 3-6-9 dialed watches; instead opting for the name Ranger.

What we can be sure of though, is that there were two versions available. A manual wind non-date and an auto with date function. As per basic Tudor protocol the auto version bears the name ‘PRINCE’, which is Tudor’s equivalent of Rolex’s ‘PERPETUAL’, and ‘OYSTERDATE’. The manual wind non-date version just bears the label ‘OYSTER’.

The root of the issues with these watches is the fact that, unlike virtually all other Rolex and Tudor watches, the Ranger didn't originally have it’s own allocated reference number; so we can legitimately see some Tudor Oyster models as either dress watches or Rangers depending on how they were put together in Geneva by Rolex! By way of example, a generally accepted Ranger ref is 9050 yet there are many 9050s in existence as standard Prince Oysterdates! The same is true of the reference 7966, another generally accepted Ranger model yet also widely available as a bog-standard Prince Oysterdate.

It wasn't until the introduction of the ref 90330 and 90220 (non-date models) in the 1980s that the Ranger got its own specific model reference.

There seem to be accepted examples of Rangers in the following references:

Non-date: 7992, 7934, 7995, 7965, 90330 & 90220

Date: 7964, 7966, 7990 & 7996

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~ Tudor Submariner ~

The Tudor Submariner series was in many ways different from the other product lines adopted by Tudor. Unlike almost all Tudor models, the Tudor Submariner uses the same model designation as the Rolex equivilant - i.e. Submariner. In the newest variations introduced after the 1990's they changed the name to Hydronaut - but from 1956 till the mid 90's - the Tudor Submariner existed as an almost carbon copy of it's Rolex sister. The only significant differences were the movements, the use of blue dials and bezels on some models and of course the fact that the later Tudor Submariners were offered in four different sizes!

Reference 7922

The earliest Submariner found in the Tudor family is the Reference 7922. The 7922 is a special watch in many respects. First of all it would seem that the Tudor Ref. 7922 Submariner and the Rolex Ref 6538 Submariner were introduced at the same time. Many Rolex experts list the Rolex Reference 6538 Submariner to be running as a production watch since 1956. Interestingly enough the earliest Tudor Reference 7922 was also introduced in 1956. This to us would indicate a simultaneous roll-out of the two models - Rolex and Tudor - side by side. Also note that the Rolex and Tudor serial # ranges of the mid 1950's are almost identical. This indicates to us that the two serial # ranges started at the same point in time, and the gap between the two ranges grow during the late 50's and into the 60's as Rolex sales soar, and Tudor sales does not.

The 7922 sports a 8mm Brevet "+" crown as does the Rolex 6538. The dial layout and hands are similar in styling, fonts and shape, to that of the Rolex 6538. The bezels are usually fitted as bi-directional bezels with red triangle - similar to the Rolex variation. Later 1950's 7922 also exist as small crown versions - i.e. without the 8mm Big crown

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Reference 7923

The Reference 7923 Submariner is perhaps the most unknown reference in the Tudor Submariner collection. It's mere exsistence has been hard to prove. Only few have ever seen one. Until recently they were considered prototypes or "frankenwatches" however recent finds show them clearly described in Rolex/Tudor service catalogues, and grouped with the 7922 and Rolex 6536/1.

4-5 of these watches has surfaced online. The characteristics of the watch is quite similar to that of the 7922. It has a manual wind movement. Cal. 1156-1188 which is unique for this model. The movement has been an enigma for collectors, but recent research shows that the movement is most likely an ETA based 10.5" 1156. 1188 is assumed to being the internal Tudor reference for the modified movement.

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Reference 7924

The reference 7924 shares a similar fate to it's two older brothers - the 7922 and 7923. Short production run and unclear history. All the 7924's seem to have 1958 casebacks. As with the 7922 they are featured in thick case / big crown variations and in thin case / 6mm crown variations.

The 7924 was most likely sold with Rolex stainless steel Ref. 7206 Rivit bracelets or the optional 6636 "stretchy" variation. The watch is 20mm between the lugs and the caseback uses the standard Rolex 29.5mm case opener.

The crystal on the 7924 is the tropic 17. Thereby it is grouped together with the Rolex 5510, 6200 and 6538. It is interesting to note that the 7924 shares crystals with the 6538 but not casebacks.

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Reference 7928

The Tudor Reference 7928 is perhaps one of the most classic Tudor sports models. It saw a long production run from approximately 1960 (earliest caseback we have seen is an IV.59 with a 300.xxx serial) till approximately 1968. There are several versions of the 7928. In broad overview there are two reference groups. The 7928 and the 7928/0. The /0 was added to many Tudor references in the mid 60's to denote stainless steel - in a similar fashion as Rolex did with their models. Within the two main groups, a large amount of variations exist. Many of those are pictured in this section.

It is quite complex to chart all the dial variations of the 7928. First of all, these watches due to their lower price point (and also several versions used for military use) have had questionable service histories. This means that dials may have been changed back and forth, redone, relumed, repainted or even faked. In this section we will do our best to describe the known varieties.

The following dial variations have been found so far:

MK I. Always cased in a Square Crown case. Gilt writing. Gilt track.
MK II. Gilt track - silver writing
MK III. Silver writing and no track
MK IV. Ordinary writing and markers similar to Rolex 5513

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Reference 7016/0 & 7021/0

It has been discussed for years why the Reference 7016 & 7021 Submariners were introduced. First seen around 1968 (verifiable) they feature a long list of changes compared to the Reference 7928. First of all there are two of them. The 7016 features a non-date layout while the 7021 features a layout with a Date mechanism. If we look at the Rolex world, this coincides with the release of the 1680 - the Rolex Submariner with a date. So, this "explains" why the 7021 was introduced. By why add the 7016 ?

The reason is most likely movements. The 7928 featured the cal. 390 automatic movement, bought from Fleurier (FEF). During the 60's almost all Tudor models disbanded the various movement manufacturers and went pure ETA. (Exception of course being the Tudor Advisor with the proprietary alarm clock movement). The Cal 390. was first seen in early Tudor automatics (most famous the Tudor Oyster 34) from 1951-52 - so realistically the movement has seen at least 16 years of service. And the base is even older. The combination of a pure ETA movement strategy and the fact that training and mechanical service would be much easier when the date and non-date Submariners used the same base - resulted in the death of the 7928.

To add to the complexity - both versions came with the choice of dial color. Either blue or black. Case dimensions and overall design was more or less identical to the 7928. Interestingly enough, the very first 7016 featured the same dial layout as the 7928. (Rose dial with the 4 lines on the bottom half of the dial). These (in the examples I have seen) feature a semi-pointed crown guard case. And most likely not produced for very long. Subsequently the dial layout changed to the classic "Snowflake" design with square markers and square hands.

Technically the 7016 features a ETA Cal. 2483. It's a 25 jewel movement (as opposed to the 17j cal. 390 in the older Reference 7928). In the Tudor / Rolex technical service manuals it is designated as 2461-2483. In the past this covers an internal and an external reference number.

The 7021 features the cal. 2484. Main difference is of course the date feature.

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Reference 9401/0 & 9411/0

The next generation of Submariners, following the 7016/7021 are the 9401/0 and 9411/0. These watches feature an option of blue or black dials. They exist in various variations.

9401/0 - Produced circa. 1975-76. Non-Date. Blue or black dial with "snowflake" markers and hands.
9411/0 - Produced circa. 1975-76. Date. Blue or black dial with "snowflake" markers and hands.
94010 - Produced circa. 1976-83. Till circa 1980 (the introduction of 5 digit serials, reverted) had the "Snowflake" design. From circa. 1980-83 - Triangle marked dials.
94110 - Produced circa. 1976-83. Till circa 1980 (the introduction of 5 digit serials, reverted) had the "Snowflake" design. From circa. 1980-83 - Triangle marked dials.

The 94010 Snowflake is most notably known for it's use by the Franch Navy. And it is the only "verifiable" Military watch other than the Rolex Military 5513/5517's. These were of course also sold in fairly big numbers in the civilian market.

The non-date 9401/0 (and later 94010) featured a Cal. 2776 movement. ETA based - modified by Tudor. The Date versions (9411/0 and 94110) featured a cal 2784.

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Reference 76100

The 76100 is interesting indeed. It is one of the "low production" transitional watches that Tudor excelled in. The 76100 only existed with a date. Whats interesting is that it seems that it was produced along side the 94110. Optically it is identical to the later 94110 (with triangle marker matté tritium dial) - however it had different hands - including a big bubble - hours hands which is quite distinct.

Earliest 76100 serial seen is 64.000 range - which is literally a few hundred numbers away from the last 94010. Interestingly enough the Rolex R20 manual from 1984 does not feature the 76100. This leads me to believe it was introduced in 84. To further complicate matters, the 94010 in question is a MN83 (Marine Nationale, issued in 1983) so there seems to be a gap in the serial numbers - perhaps even a production halt for a period of time.

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~ Tudor Chronograph ~

In 1970 Tudor introduced their first Chronograph. The reference 7031. The design of the Chronograph itself is very similar to that of the Rolex counterpart. However there is a few differences. The cases are more "fat" and taller than the Rolex versions. The watches feature a manual wind movement and a two register chronograph function. What really make these watches unique is the very iconic 1970's dial design. This design has followed the next 2 variations of the Tudor Chronograph which is a production model through 1970-1980.

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Monte Carlo 7031/32

The first Chronographs are called "Homeplate" by collectors. This is due to the unique looking tritium markers. As far as we can see they were introduced in 1970. The last ones seen have serials corresponding to circa 1972. This is a very short production run - and very seldom seen in Rolex production lines. The 7032 sports the '500 tachy dial - solid fitted bezel. The movement in the 7031/32 is a Valjoux 7734. Which is a manual wind movement. Note the date window at 6 is uniquely "turned" and is in fact a standard cyclope that is fitted turned half way compared to ordinary Rolex cyclopes. The Reference 128 crystal is only used on the 2 register models - 70xx and 71xx models.

1st Generation Homeplate variations:

Black base dial with grey area subdials.
Grey base dial with black area subdials.
6263 Style Bakelite bezel.
6265 Style solid stainless bezel.

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Monte Carlo 7149 / 7159 / 7169

In 1972 Tudor altered the Chronograph line. It is unknown why the 7031/32 had such a short production run, however the 71xx series appeared approximately two years after the old series started. The new version was also a 2 register chronograph. It came in three case variations.

7149. Features a classic Rolex Daytona 6263 style Bakelite bezel. Exists in black or blue versions.
7159. Features a solid metal bezel similar to the Rolex 6265 bezel design. Tachymetre goes to '500.
7169. Features a metal bezel insert that is turn-able. This is a unique Tudor design. Exists in black and blue.

The 71xx series all feature a manual wind Valjoux Cal. 234, 17 ruby movement. The watches are water proof till 50 meters. Similar to the 703x series they feature the Cyclope 128 plexi crystal.

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Tudor Chronograph Reference 9420 / 9430 / 94200 / 94300

The 94xx series is the first automatic Tudor Chronograph. It features the Valjoux Cal. 7750 workhorse. A classic movement still in use today. When these were introduced in still a bit sketchy but the serial number project indicates that they were introduced around 1976.

9420/0 - Bakelite fixed bezel
9421/0 - Rotating bezel
9430/0 - Fixed Metal bezel

94200 - Bakelite fixed bezel
94210 - Rotating bezel
94300 - Fixed metal bezel

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Tudor Military Watches

It is commonly known in the collector community that Tudors were extensively used as issued Military watches. The reasons may be numerous, but the main one is most likely cost.

In the military watch collectors community there are several variations of collect-ability. I have tried to categorize this in rarity levels. Where 1 is the least rare.

1. Watch purchased by service personnel and used on duty - often seen or documented in books or similar resources.
2. Watch purchased by DOD or specific military branch directly at Authorized dealership - With or without markings
3. Watch purchased by DOD or specific military branch directly from Rolex / Tudor - and no markings
4. Watch purchased by DOD or specific military branch directly from Rolex / Tudor - and structured application of military markings by DOD / Branch
5. Watch purchased by DOD or specific military branch directly from Rolex / Tudor - and structured application of military markings by DOD / Branch + special hands and dials
6. Watch purchased by DOD or specific military branch directly from Rolex / Tudor - and structured application of military markings by DOD / Branch + special hands and dials / Panerai.

Type 5 watches would include the British issued milsubs with special references, engravings and specialized hands and dials. These are among the most coveted military watches - and prices soar above the 50-100.000 euro range depending on specifications. Type 6 include the ultra rare 1940's military Panerai.

So far, we have identified military use Tudors from the following countries:

- France. Type 4 watches. Sold in batches directly from Tudor. Marked by French navy. Issued through the 1960, 70's and early 1980's.
- Canada. Type 2 watches have been rumored. Typically from specific batches from bought in free trade from AD's.
- USA. Type 3 and 4. Certain very early 1960's pieces have been identified. Most Vietnam area pieces are Type 1's - and widely identified and discussed.
- Argentina. Researching.
- Israel. Rolex 5513 and Tudor 7928 has been seen with IDF issue numbers on the caseback. Also other brands seen. Most likely type 4.

Contributers to this WIKI:

I would like to thank the following people for contacting me and adding to this WIKI page. Due to the nature of vintage builds I have added some people based on their past contributions to our vast amount of information on this forum. My thanks go out to them for willing to take time and write up some excellent threads and take some excellent photographs of their watches.

AskMeAgain
txrob779
subjeff
LHOOQ
Debellum
Rol_Man​
 
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