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The Ultimate Rolex Reference Guide by Bonesy

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    #16

    Submariner

    The birth of the Submariner (early models) by Debellum

    ~ General notes on Big Crown / No Crownguard builds ~

    Finding an accurate big crown submariner case set is difficult. Over the past two years I have built almost 20 of these watches all in the budget range. They are not very accurate but can be fun to build and modify. All of the case sets that I used came from Silix (Silix Vendor Section) in the Economy Watches section there are a variety of case sets and dial styles to choose from. There are downsides to these cheaper case sets however. The case construction is not accurate or gen like. The bezel is quite thin and the crowns are not accurate either. They will have the cheap paperclip construction which can be difficult to remove and can be easily damaged if done incorrectly. I would advise reading through some of the construction threads to see how others have dealt with these case sets.

    Some excellent upgrades would be the addition of an Athaya 8mm Brevet crown (see parts dealers section above) as well as a new plexi crystal from either Clark/Sternkreuz/Ofrei. Due to the nature of the bezel assembly this will need to be shaved down in height in order to look correct. None of these models come with the correct plexi bezel pearl so that is another excellent additions (see Yukiwatch or Ofrei).

    Another option (without buying a $1000 super case set) is the new 6538 released by Helenarou (http://www.helenarou.com/). Although the price is high it is a great case set. You are able to order a sterile version or a branded version for another $75. The sterile case set without movement starts at $289 and would be a great base for a vintage build. The only detractor is that it comes with a sapphire crystal which would need to be replaced out with a plexi in order to be accurate.

    ~ Submariner 6200 ~



    Reference 6200 lived only a short life. Launched in 1953. Depth rated to 200m (660 ft) with an 8mm crown. No crown guard and no depth rating on dial. Submariner not printed on dial. Dial similar to Explorer style dials of same period. Non-Chronometer A296 movement with 18 Jewels. Larger case than the 6204 or 6205. Larger crown marked Brevet.

    Updated in 1955. Depth rated to 200m (660 ft) with an 8mm crown. No crown guard and no depth rating on dial. Submariner printed on dial. Included the Mercedes hands. Non-Chronometer A296 movement with 18 Jewels. Larger case than the 6536 or 6538. Larger crown marked Brevet.

    RLX submariner 6200 Big Crown by radiomir (Italian sub-section)

    noob rolex 6200 project by Sor

    Rolex 6200 Lug Reshape by civic4982

    *~* Rolex Sub 6200, choices! SpecThx Donerix/BuddhaJones *~* by civic4982

    Another Photoshoot! 6200 by hippo1111

    Double big crown pieces by Bonesey

    Here's the begining of my first build by aafanatic

    Wish Me Luck!! 6200 by hippo1111

    ~~ 3-6-9 it's 6200 time ~~ by Bonesey

    ~ Submariner 6204 ~



    Rolex introduced the Submariner at the 1954 Basel Watch Fair. The first production model, available for sale to the public that same year, was the reference 6204. The 6204 looked almost identical to a similar Rolex watch, the Turn-O-Graph reference 6202. The reference 6204 was water resistant to 600 feet, and used the Rolex Caliber A260 movement. Depth rated to 100m (330 ft) with a 6mm crown. No crown guard and no depth rating on dial. Submariner printed on dial. Dial revised from 6200. Used the upgraded non-chronometer A260 movement with 18 Jewels. Smaller than the 6200.

    Updated in 1954. Depth rated to 100m (330 ft) with a 6mm crown. No crown guard and no depth rating on dial. Model name "blacked-out." Non-Chronometer A260 movement with 18 Jewels. Smaller than the 6200

    ~ Submariner 6205 ~



    Launched in 1954. Depth rated to 100m (330 ft) with a 6mm crown. No crown guard and no depth rating on dial. Model name not present on dial. Dial revised from 6200. Used the upgraded A260 movement. Same size as the 6204. Smaller than the 6200

    Updated in 1955. Depth rated to 100m (330 ft) with 6mm crown. No crown guard however depth rating now printed on dial (white). Model name present on dial. A260 movement. Smaller than the 6200

    Rolex/Tudor sub 6205 project by brityis

    ~ Submariner 6538 ~

    Hands-On With A Four-Line Tropical Big Crown Submariner - Hodinkee



    Reference 6538 followed less than two years later, which was rated as water resistant to 660 feet. This watch was the first Submariner to use the "Mercedes" hands and the oversized "Trip Lock" crown, which have been in use ever since. Launched in 1955. Upgrade of the 6205 model. Depth rated to 100m (330 ft) with the 8mm crown. No crown guard and no depth rating on dial. Submariner printed on dial. Movement upgraded to the non-chronometer 1030 with 25 Jewels.

    Updated in 1956. Depth rated to 100m (330 ft) with a 8mm crown. No crown guard however depth rating now printed on dial (white). Submariner also printed on dial. Non-Chronometer 1030 movement. First time Bezel contained markers for first 15 minutes.

    Another Finished Helenrou 6538 Big Crown by Daz8161

    Modded Helenrou 6538 by Daz8161

    Goldfinger 6538 by jerkstore

    The ubiquitous James Bond sub. by Bonesey

    New Helenarou Bond 6538! by Tanto91

    Rolex 6538 big crown by stevedrk

    6538 ghosts by Bonesey

    Silix has two different 6538 offerings - is one better than the other? by Mendota

    Vintage 6538 by davylloyd

    ~ Submariner 6536 ~



    There was also a reference 6536, which looks exactly like the 6538, mechanically and cosmetically, but the 6536 was only rated water resistant to 330 feet. (For collectors, it is exactly this type of variety that makes the Submariner such a collectable model). The 6538 was produced from 1954 -1959 and carried the Rolex caliber 1030; while the reference 6536 was produced from 1955 -1959 and also housed the caliber 1030. These two references are the so-called "James Bond" Submariners. One other note: the 6538 reference had its own evolution, as the production of this model for the first two years was not C.O.S.C. chronometer certified, the last three years of production of this reference did bear the "Officially Certified Chronometer" on its dial. (I believe this was the first Submariner to display this now familiar inscription/certification.).

    Finally, it's interesting to note that both of the above references shared the caliber 1030, while only the final three years of production of the 6538 were C.O.S.C. certified. This suggests two learning points: first, that the presence or absence of the C.O.S.C. certification in the same caliber does not imply any difference in quality. Second, C.O.S.C. certification does have merit in terms of confirming calibers accuracy, but it at least as much a marketing device as anything else, since the 6538 had a higher price than the 6536, when by all appearances the watches are identical.

    Build #5 - 6536 by Bonesey

    ~ Submariner 5508 ~



    Reference 5508 appeared about 1957-58, and this watch is actually the reference 6536, but with the new 5508 reference number. This reference number change was made to evolve all Submariners into 55XX reference numbers starting in the late 1950s. which would last through 1990, when the last 55XX models were last produced.

    Until this point, Submariner dials had what is called "Gilt" printing, which means the colour of the text was gold. Furthermore, the dials also had various patterns. Some had the same hour markers in use today, while other had Explorer-style dials with 3-6-9 style dials. Still others had chapter rings around the minute markers, while other dials lacked this chapter ring. The bezel triangle at the 12 o’clock position on watches up until this point was red. Furthermore, the bezels themselves on the preceding Submariners had various gradation patterns. Finally, all preceding models did not have crown guards.

    The reference 55XX series, which started with the 5508, standardized these previous inconsistencies. All cases now had integral (i.e.: solid metal rising up from the case and NOT soldered on) crown guards. All dials now had white coloured printing (with an exception occurring with the later and now infamous "Red" Submariners and "Red" SeaDwellers). All bezels now had one minute gradations from one minute to 15 minutes and then 5 minute gradations from the 20 minute through the 55 minute positions). All bezel triangles were now silver.

    Franken Rolex 5508 "Bond" Submariner by Uncle Jay

    ~ Submariner 5510 ~



    Launched in 1958. Upgrade to the 6200 model. Depth rated to 200m (660 ft) with the 8mm crown. No crown guard and depth rating printed on dial. Submariner printed on dial. New Chronometer 1530 movement. Arabic Numeral markers on dial. Red triangle marker above 12.
    Updated in 1964. Depth rated to 200m (660 ft) with the 8mm crown. No crown guard. Depth rating printed on dial. Printing on dial changed to white.

    My first Big crown submariner by lbd1014

    ~ Submariner 5512 ~



    In 1959 the reference 5512 was introduced. This reference was produced from 1959 through 1978, and with four calibers used over the years: Calibers 1520, 1530, 1560 and 1570. While I do not know if the reference 5512 carried the C.O.S.C. certification for its entire product lifespan, it did have the chronometer certification for many years through the end of production.

    5512 club by SubDude

    Cartel sub with stubby crown guards revisited by RolexAddict

    So it turns out I prefer rubber (5512 Gilt/PCG content) by Bonesey

    First post on RWI! and a 5512 question by 16610

    My First Submariner: MBW 5512 4-Line Gilt by LHOOQ

    More 5512/5513 Questions? by skcheng

    5512 bi-directional bezel? No clicks? by greg325i

    ~ Submariner 5513 ~



    The reference 5513 was introduced in 1962, and replaced the reference 5508. The 5513 was produced from 1962 through June or so of 1990, which must be one of the longest continually produced references in Rolex history. The reference 5513 used calibers 1520 and 1530. Curiously, the caliber 1530 was used in both the 5513 and 5512 calibers for a time. The 5512 carried the C.O.S.C. certification while the 5513 using the same caliber did not have the chronometer certification. Today, the 5513 is one of the most collectable Submariners, and while it is still accessibly priced, market prices have almost doubled from 2003 to 2005.

    For 5513 Milsub see 5517

    It is worth noting that none of the Submariners discussed so far had a date complication.

    Rolex 5513 Let's see some 5513s by federico

    My lovely 5513 by DocThor

    Rare Rolex Submariner gilt dial meters first (gen inside) by RolexAddict

    Donerix 5513 by spybbuser

    MBW 5513 Franken Rolex SWISS ETA 2879 Lowbeat by MoD2franken

    Fitting gen spec bezel to Mbk 5513 by MySharona

    Fresh from service 5513 by That

    Help. Gen t19 doesn't fit to my 5513 by nikee

    5513 Polex Design by Subjeff

    ~ Submariner 5514 ~



    For more in depth information on Comex 5514, or Comex in general please visit this external site - The Comex Story

    Meanwhile, the non-date Submariners underwent several new iterations. Reference 5514 was produced from 1969 through 1977, and like the reference 5513, used caliber 1520. This reference denotes that this is a COMEX model.

    The Comex 5514 Has arrived by Ko67

    Vintagizing a 5514...my first "Dremeltime" by DocThor

    5514 Comex Project Complete by Dbane883

    Rolex Submariner 5514 Comex Edition -lot of pics- by RolexAddict

    Rolex 5514 Comex - version 2 - by RolexAddict

    Comex 5514 build completed... by Dizzy

    ~ Submariner 5513/5517 Milsub ~



    Many watch manufacturers have made watches for the military outfits around the world, but the Rolex watches made especially for the Royal Navy in the 1970's have captivated Rolex collectors. The general consensus is that approximately about 1200 watches were made and unfortunately many did not survive and of those that survive only several hundred remains in their original configuration. While the dial is a regular 5513 dial the most distinctive modification if the large "T" in a circle above the depth markings at the six o'clock position. This was to indicate the presence of tritium for the markers.

    The hands are unique on this model and are often referred to as "sword" hands. They are very similar to the hands from the Omega Seamaster and are often used by some people to replace them but the seasoned collector will be able to tell due to some basic differences in the shape and length. Rolex does not make sword hands anymore and their stock in not available. The hands due to their larger surface area and content of tritium often are prone to flaking or oxidation.
    The bezel is a standard production but the insert in many watches is a specially manufactured one with minute markings around the whole insert. This is unique for the military subs.

    The case is a regular 5513 but the spring bars are fixed with metal bars to fit a NATO strap.

    There were several configurations of mil subs that are considered correct and original depending on the age and batch.

    - The 5513 milsub was delivered with either sword hands or Mercedes hands from new
    - The 5513 milsub came with either full 60 minute bezel insert or 15 min bezel insert from new.
    - The 5517 milsub was delivered ONLY with sword hands and full 60 minute bezel

    How to mod a Trevor 5517 by Q5?

    Rolex Milsub 5513/5517 info by Q5?

    Project Rolex MilSub 5513/5517 Finished Pictures by don9998

    Milsub 5517 by seraphe

    A tale of two Milsub 5517 by Bonesey

    My "Cheap" Custom 5517 Milsub Homage by shadeone

    Anyone buy a TS vintage Rolex 5517 for $68 by mickeypro

    Vintage 5517 build shopping list. by ddc

    5517 Vintage Sub, Nato edition by palibrary

    ~ Submariner 1680 ~



    In 1965, Rolex introduced the caliber 1565, which was both C.O.S.C. certified and had a date display. In 1971, Rolex iterated the caliber to include hacking (meaning the seconds hand stops when the crown is pulled out for time setting). The 1565 caliber lead to a new model series, the 168X series. Reference 1680 was introduced in 1965 or 1966 and had the chronometer status and a date display. This also introduced the Cyclops date magnifier to the Submariner line. The 1680 also marked the philosophical transition of the Submariner from a pure "tool watch" built for serious divers to also being built and sold as a luxury sports watch. I say this, because the 1680 was the first reference to be sold in a steel and gold version ("two-tone" or "bi-metal") and also in an 18 carat gold model.

    Some notes on the 1680 Submariner should you decide to build one, or buy one. There are two basic versions of this watch that people aim to build. This would be the single red submariner and the great white. As always case sets vary in quality and price and you are best to do some serious research should you want to build something as close to accurate as possble. I suggest that you have a read through this website and gain some very valuable knowledge.

    DRSD.com Red Sub information

    RolexAddict Red 1680 by spybbuser

    Show your Sub 1680..... by Debellum

    Where to find a 1680 Red best version? by Frédéric

    Rolex 1680 red submariner by DenisSpa

    PureTime 1680 Project by pjsayer

    Vintage 1680 Red Photo Shoot TONS OF PICS by DenisSpa

    New Matte dial project 1680 by DenisSpa

    Vintage 1680 Red Sub (kind of pic heavy) by contest1

    Just a quick 1680 single red sub by Bonsey

    Red 1680 sub back from spa treatment by Mendota

    Another MBW 1680 build? gimme a break! by watchguyusa1

    Recent 1680 build lite Gilt - Pic Heavy by Rick914

    ~ GMT Master ~

    In short: the Pan-Am company was looking for a watch that was able to display multiple time zones at the same time, as they started to operate transatlantic flights. Having an accurate wrist watch was an absolute necessity for pilots in those days; Rolex was able to give it to them.
    As we know now, the GMT-Master wasn’t only popular amongst Pan-Am pilots (or civil aviation), also NASA and US Air Force pilots started wearing them. Also business people who travelled to different time zones started wearing the Rolex GMT-Master, as reading home time and local time at the same time has a positive [mental] effect on fighting jet lags.

    ~ GMT 6542 ~



    The first GMT-Master in production ever was the ref.6542 and was introduced in 1954, in the same year as Pan Am took the Boeing 707 in operation. It featured a Bakelite bezel (which was replaced after two years by an aluminium bezel because it cracked very easily) and had no crown guards. The James Bond fan also might recognize this watch as it was on the wrist of Pussy Galore in the Goldfinger movie. The Rolex GMT-Master ref.6542 was in production till 1959.

    Rolex Ref. 6542 by Donerix

    GMT Master 6542 - is this a good base for a project? by Mendota

    Rolex Pan Am 6542 "albinos" by Ed911 (French sub-section)

    Vint. Rolex 6534 Roulette Date Gen Mvmnt Pics by Personicus

    6542 Albino Build (first build) by anonymus

    ~ GMT Master 1675 ~



    Perhaps one of the most popular vintage Rolex GMT-Master watches is this ref.1675. Introduced in 1959 and was in production till 1980, indeed a very long time. This is [most probably] also the reason why you can find a vintage ref.1675 GMT-Master in decent condition without a hassle. Some Rolex collectors do prefer a more worn version like the one pictured above. Till the late 1960s, the extra hour hand featured a small triangle and was succeeded by a red hand with a larger triangle through-out the 1970s. Early models also featured pointed crown guards and a chapter ring. It was also the first Rolex sports watch that became available on both the Oyster and Jubilee bracelet. The GMT-Master 1675 can be found in all types of editions, with gilt dials but with custom logos as well; the Oman Marine Ministry, Tiffany & Co and probably others as well. Also in limited and rare version is the 'blueberry' with a blue bezel insert. Supposedly a limited issue to armed forces but when that issue ended the blue inserts were made available to service centers for general use.

    1675 GMT Finished by GBAOC

    Pepsi 1675 GMT build from a Silix case by Jerkstore

    Cartel 1675 GMT build for TxRob779 - PIC HEAVY!!! by Rick914

    Pictorial Review: Sead's GMT 1675 Pepsi by flyinmysoup

    1675 El Cornino build by sneed.12

    1675 GMT twins by RolexAddict by Gngn

    Cartel 1675 GMT Pepsi Photos by rols16610

    Two new builds, 1665 DRSD / 1675 GMT by Bonesey

    Out of the box accuracy of 1675? by upod1mm

    Rolex 1675 Pointed Grown Guard Build by Alex_P1

    Blood, Sweat and Tears "The Trials and Tribulations of a very special build" by eVojlib

    1665 Sea-Dweller

    A brief history of Sea Dweller (No photos) by Debellum

    If you're looking to research any of the Sea Dweller models then your first stop should be this website http://www.doubleredseadweller.com/. This has all the information on dials and case sets that you could possibly need in order to replicate the that you want.

    The Rolex Sea-Dweller was developed in close collaboration with the French deep sea diving company COMEX. Their divers required a timing instrument that could withstand their working depths, plus be able to remain intact in ascent and decompression. Most of the watches manufactured at that time could not tolerate the extreme depths. Helium gas would build up inside the case and at decompression the gas pressure would increase. The rising inner pressure would eventually be released by breaking the crystal, the weakest point in the case design.

    Rolex first developed the helium release valve in the 1960s and incorporated it into some of their Submariner watches delivered to the French diving company, COMEX. The testing of these specially adapted Submariner 5513 models was so successful that Rolex specifically made a batch of watches for COMEX and the watch was given an official model number, 5514. This was such a success that Rolex decided to market the watch as model number 1665 by 1967.

    The 1665 was initially rushed to production and some early watches were sent to dealers for promotion or early sales. Some authorities state that the number is less, about 150, while others argue that the number is much larger and that several hundred may have been made.

    The helium valve had been developed and the patent had been applied, but Rolex had not received final approval. Therefore, the engraving on the caseback of these early sea dwellers stated in parenthesis “Patent Pending.”

    Regular production of the double red sea dwellers started in 1971 and ended in approximately 1977.

    The Sea-Dweller is characterised by it's HEV and the superdome T39 crystal. It's also the only Rolex sports watch to feature a date but no magnification cyclops.

    The Double Red Sea-Dweller

    There are at least seven different variations of the DRSD dials that were sold to the public.

    There are dials with only a single line in red, and other dials with two lines of red without "2000." Early Sea-Dwellers did not always have the helium escape valve. You can find more about these variations here: The Double Red SeaDweller Dials.



    Final build of 2012 -Double Red Seadweller 1665 by Bonesey

    1665 Project - Finally Finished! Warning lots of pics by redcar

    1665 Progress so Far by redcar

    Rolex SeaDweller 1665: The Trilogy (Single Red, Double Red, by Stephane

    QC pics of my red sub 1680! by HAMMER DOWN

    T19 on a PT 1680 by Pjsayer

    Two new builds, 1665 DRSD / 1675 GMT by Bonesey

    1665 DRSD first pic by chuckp

    pbdad DRSD 1665 by spybbuser

    NOS MBW single red 1665 by iPanerai

    ~ The Great White Sea-Dweller ~

    As with most things Rolex, there are no “exact” dates, serial numbers, etc. so take that into consideration when reading the following... Somewhere around the 5.3 Mil mark in late 1977 the DRSD (1665) became what many people like to call “The Great White”.

    -Away went the RED lettering....To be replaced with WHITE lettering...

    -Away went the words: “SUBMARINER 2000” -The case back was also altered....

    The word ROLEX no longer ran across the case back but around the outer edge and is now flanked by two Rolex crowns.

    The watch retained it’s silver date wheel and nice beefy case with gas escape valve.

    There were four regularly excepted Tritium dial configurations:

    -The MK1 which ran into the early 6 mil.

    -The Rail Dial

    -MK 2 from about mid. 6mil.

    The font has changed.

    The “ft” & “m” markings are now larger and italicized.

    The “6” is now “closed”

    -MK 3:

    Somewhere in 1978 or 1979 this dial came out and was produced along with the MK 2 but in much lower numbers.....

    -New Font and layout -”ft” & “m” are smaller The “6” is open.

    -There were also two versions of a Luminova replacement dial that Rolex made available.



    A cartel 1665 Great white revisited by RolexAddict

    1665 Great White Seadweller by Bonesey

    1665 just got a facelift by dbane883

    1665 Great White by miquel

    Jiddy´s Vintage 1665 ”The Great White” **Picture heavy!** by Jiddy

    2000ft = 610m; the Great White. by SD4K

    rolex sea dweller 1665 gw..any vintage expert for me? by chrono24

    Rolex 1665 GWSD - My Franken MBW - Available for rotation again! by mapmap57



    TitleistRolex: my question wasn't to ask "Hey QueDick can you tell any flaws of this watch or that watch?!"
    RM#1:
    I’ll give you my cell and FaceTime me and I’ll show you wealth you petty lil child



    QFOAHDT

    Comment


      #17

      ~ Daytona ~

      A Vintage Watch Nerd's Critical Dissection Of The Rolex Daytona, Past To Present (Part 1/3)



      Daytona- Everything You Need To Know and Then Some by Txrob779

      The Rolex Chronograph Reference 6234 was introduced in 1955–coincidentally, the same year Rolex introduced the Rolex GMT Master.The Rolex Chronograph Reference 6234 was made from 1955 to 1961, and during those 6 years Rolex averaged approximately 500 per year. The Reference 6234 is the great grandfather of the modern stainless steel Rolex Daytona.

      Rolex originally registered the name "Cosmograph" in 1953, and it was first placed on a watch dial in 1956 on a complicated Moonphase. Rolex historically used the word "Chronograph" on the dial of their chronograph watches and then one day in the late 1960s they changed it from Rolex Chronograph to Rolex Cosmograph.

      The rarest versions of the Rolex Daytona are the first versions, those whose reference number contains four digit references, produced from 1961 to 1987. The 6238, 6239, 6241 and 6262 References were the first versions, and were not "Oyster" versions, they did not have a screw down winding crown or screw down timing buttons. The movement used was a manual wind Valjoux cal. 72, named the Rolex Cal. 722. Later versions use a movement based on the manual wind Valjoux cal. 72, but with some refinements, and was called the Rolex Cal. 727.

      1963 - ref. 6239 - push down pushers / metal bezel / 300 UPH + 200 UPH
      1965 - ref. 6240 - screw down pushers / crown / plastic bezel insert
      1966 - ref. 6241 - push down pushers / screw down crown / plastic bezel insert
      1970 - ref. 6262 - push down pushers / metal bezel / 200 UPH / Cal 727 movement
      1970 - ref. 6264 - push down pushers / plastic bezel insert / Cal 727 movement
      1971 - ref. 6263 - screw down pushers / crown / plastic bezel insert
      1971 - ref. 6265 - screw down pushers / crown / metal bezel / 200 UPH
      1984 - ref. 6269 - screw down pushers / 18 kt gold case / diamond bezel
      1984 - ref. 6270 - screw down pushers / 18 kt gold case / diamond bezel

      The rarest Daytona's are those with the so-called "Paul Newman" dial. Its distinguishing features are subtle and often unnoticeable to the untrained eye. First, a Paul Newman dial must be in a Reference 6239, 6241, 6262, 6263, 6264 or 6265 watch, installed by Rolex Geneva as original. All of these References had acrylic domed crystals. That aside, the sub-dials (the dials that are the opposite or contrasting color of the main dial) of a Paul Newman dial have block markers instead of lines, will have cross hairs across each sub-dial meeting at center (unlike the normal Daytona), and the seconds sub-dial placed at 9:00 is marked at 15, 30, 45 and 60, whereas a normal Daytona dial is marked at 20, 40 and 60. The dial may or may not have the word "Daytona" written on the dial above the hour sub-dial located at 6:00. The dial came in four color and layout combinations, and was installed as an option by Rolex.

      ~ Vintage Daytona Replicas ~

      The two big names that you will come across when researching any vintage Rolex Daytona's will be David Wong (DW) and Spinmaster. Spinmaster uses the DW cases and provides some upgrades as the case set is easily upgraded. It will take genuine crystals and pushers as well as a genuine V72 movement should you find one. One of the biggest tells on a vintage Daytona is the pusher spacing. The DW mimics the genuine. Neither of these guys are trusted dealers on this forum so you should use at your own risk if you manage to get in contact with them (Warning : Read this before dealing with dw – a cautionary tale.).

      ~ Replica Movements ~

      There is generaly 3 x movement options for these vintage Daytona reps.

      V32 / V72 "mystery movement" - The DW case has the correct spacing for the genuine V72 movement. It comes complete with a hand winding movement of unknown origin.

      A7750 - Automatic chronograph movement. Using this movement makes the case too thick (true on modern replica Daytonas as well) Spinmaster takes this watch and removes the autowinding parts to create a manual wind watch.

      Lemania / Venus 32 - Handwound movement. Bulletproof construction but unfortunately only a bi-compax watch. The sub-dial register is modified by the factory to be a 24 hour hand but this can be frozen if needed.

      Photo-Comparison: Vintage Daytona Crystals by LHOOQ

      Vintage Daytona 6265 surprise from DW by watchguyusa1

      Where can I find a nice Rolex vintage Daytona by paristoto

      Vintage Rolex Cosmographs by lkirchner

      Vintage Daytona DW 6239 with GEN jubilee build by watchguyusa1

      6239 Daytona A cheap thrill... by watchguyusa1

      Something new on my 6239 byTysodrum

      DW 6263 vs Gen: Photo Comparison (UPDATED 7/25) by LHOOQ

      J&W 6263: That Big Red Freshness by LHOOQ

      Show me your SpinMaster Paul Newman by WATCHCOLLECTR

      Best replacement bracelet for Spinmaster Daytona by aceofdiamonds




      Vintage Tudor Watches

      Montres Tudor SA has designed, manufactured and marketed Tudor brand watches since March 6, 1946. Rolex founder Hans Wildorf conceived of the Tudor Watch Company to create a product for authorized Rolex dealers to sell that offered the reliability and dependability of a Rolex, but at a lower price. Tudor brand watches are manufactured by Montres Tudor SA using movements supplied by ETA SA. Tudor brand watches are marketed and sold in most countries around the world including Australia, Canada, India, Mexico, South Africa, most countries in Europe, South Asia, the Middle East and countries South America, particularly Brazil, Argentina and Venezuela.

      Tudor Ranger

      Of all the watches from the Rolex Tudor stable, none is as controversial as the Tudor Ranger. Tudor retained the name Submariner on their watches, right through until the introduction of the Hydronaut. Interestingly, they did not use the Explorer moniker on their 3-6-9 dialed watches; instead opting for the name Ranger.

      What we can be sure of though, is that there were two versions available. A manual wind non-date and an auto with date function. As per basic Tudor protocol the auto version bears the name ‘PRINCE’, which is Tudor’s equivalent of Rolex’s ‘PERPETUAL’, and ‘OYSTERDATE’. The manual wind non-date version just bears the label ‘OYSTER’.

      The root of the issues with these watches is the fact that, unlike virtually all other Rolex and Tudor watches, the Ranger didn't originally have it’s own allocated reference number; so we can legitimately see some Tudor Oyster models as either dress watches or Rangers depending on how they were put together in Geneva by Rolex! By way of example, a generally accepted Ranger ref is 9050 yet there are many 9050s in existence as standard Prince Oysterdates! The same is true of the reference 7966, another generally accepted Ranger model yet also widely available as a bog-standard Prince Oysterdate.

      It wasn't until the introduction of the ref 90330 and 90220 (non-date models) in the 1980s that the Ranger got its own specific model reference.

      There seem to be accepted examples of Rangers in the following references:

      Non-date: 7992, 7934, 7995, 7965, 90330 & 90220

      Date: 7964, 7966, 7990 & 7996



      Vintage Tudor "Red" Ranger by JMB

      ~ Tudor Submariner ~

      The Tudor Submariner series was in many ways different from the other product lines adopted by Tudor. Unlike almost all Tudor models, the Tudor Submariner uses the same model designation as the Rolex equivilant - i.e. Submariner. In the newest variations introduced after the 1990's they changed the name to Hydronaut - but from 1956 till the mid 90's - the Tudor Submariner existed as an almost carbon copy of it's Rolex sister. The only significant differences were the movements, the use of blue dials and bezels on some models and of course the fact that the later Tudor Submariners were offered in four different sizes!

      Reference 7922

      The earliest Submariner found in the Tudor family is the Reference 7922. The 7922 is a special watch in many respects. First of all it would seem that the Tudor Ref. 7922 Submariner and the Rolex Ref 6538 Submariner were introduced at the same time. Many Rolex experts list the Rolex Reference 6538 Submariner to be running as a production watch since 1956. Interestingly enough the earliest Tudor Reference 7922 was also introduced in 1956. This to us would indicate a simultaneous roll-out of the two models - Rolex and Tudor - side by side. Also note that the Rolex and Tudor serial # ranges of the mid 1950's are almost identical. This indicates to us that the two serial # ranges started at the same point in time, and the gap between the two ranges grow during the late 50's and into the 60's as Rolex sales soar, and Tudor sales does not.

      The 7922 sports a 8mm Brevet "+" crown as does the Rolex 6538. The dial layout and hands are similar in styling, fonts and shape, to that of the Rolex 6538. The bezels are usually fitted as bi-directional bezels with red triangle - similar to the Rolex variation. Later 1950's 7922 also exist as small crown versions - i.e. without the 8mm Big crown



      Reference 7923

      The Reference 7923 Submariner is perhaps the most unknown reference in the Tudor Submariner collection. It's mere exsistence has been hard to prove. Only few have ever seen one. Until recently they were considered prototypes or "frankenwatches" however recent finds show them clearly described in Rolex/Tudor service catalogues, and grouped with the 7922 and Rolex 6536/1.

      4-5 of these watches has surfaced online. The characteristics of the watch is quite similar to that of the 7922. It has a manual wind movement. Cal. 1156-1188 which is unique for this model. The movement has been an enigma for collectors, but recent research shows that the movement is most likely an ETA based 10.5" 1156. 1188 is assumed to being the internal Tudor reference for the modified movement.



      Reference 7924

      The reference 7924 shares a similar fate to it's two older brothers - the 7922 and 7923. Short production run and unclear history. All the 7924's seem to have 1958 casebacks. As with the 7922 they are featured in thick case / big crown variations and in thin case / 6mm crown variations.

      The 7924 was most likely sold with Rolex stainless steel Ref. 7206 Rivit bracelets or the optional 6636 "stretchy" variation. The watch is 20mm between the lugs and the caseback uses the standard Rolex 29.5mm case opener.

      The crystal on the 7924 is the tropic 17. Thereby it is grouped together with the Rolex 5510, 6200 and 6538. It is interesting to note that the 7924 shares crystals with the 6538 but not casebacks.



      Rolex 6538 and Tudor 7924 Big Crown Builds & Vintagising by Daz8161

      Reference 7928

      The Tudor Reference 7928 is perhaps one of the most classic Tudor sports models. It saw a long production run from approximately 1960 (earliest caseback we have seen is an IV.59 with a 300.xxx serial) till approximately 1968. There are several versions of the 7928. In broad overview there are two reference groups. The 7928 and the 7928/0. The /0 was added to many Tudor references in the mid 60's to denote stainless steel - in a similar fashion as Rolex did with their models. Within the two main groups, a large amount of variations exist. Many of those are pictured in this section.

      It is quite complex to chart all the dial variations of the 7928. First of all, these watches due to their lower price point (and also several versions used for military use) have had questionable service histories. This means that dials may have been changed back and forth, redone, relumed, repainted or even faked. In this section we will do our best to describe the known varieties.

      The following dial variations have been found so far:

      MK I. Always cased in a Square Crown case. Gilt writing. Gilt track.
      MK II. Gilt track - silver writing
      MK III. Silver writing and no track
      MK IV. Ordinary writing and markers similar to Rolex 5513



      Tudor Submariner 7928 by Merlin699

      7928 Tudor a first franken build ? by civic4982

      Tudor rep modding questions by horn34

      Reference 7016/0 & 7021/0

      It has been discussed for years why the Reference 7016 & 7021 Submariners were introduced. First seen around 1968 (verifiable) they feature a long list of changes compared to the Reference 7928. First of all there are two of them. The 7016 features a non-date layout while the 7021 features a layout with a Date mechanism. If we look at the Rolex world, this coincides with the release of the 1680 - the Rolex Submariner with a date. So, this "explains" why the 7021 was introduced. By why add the 7016 ?

      The reason is most likely movements. The 7928 featured the cal. 390 automatic movement, bought from Fleurier (FEF). During the 60's almost all Tudor models disbanded the various movement manufacturers and went pure ETA. (Exception of course being the Tudor Advisor with the proprietary alarm clock movement). The Cal 390. was first seen in early Tudor automatics (most famous the Tudor Oyster 34) from 1951-52 - so realistically the movement has seen at least 16 years of service. And the base is even older. The combination of a pure ETA movement strategy and the fact that training and mechanical service would be much easier when the date and non-date Submariners used the same base - resulted in the death of the 7928.

      To add to the complexity - both versions came with the choice of dial color. Either blue or black. Case dimensions and overall design was more or less identical to the 7928. Interestingly enough, the very first 7016 featured the same dial layout as the 7928. (Rose dial with the 4 lines on the bottom half of the dial). These (in the examples I have seen) feature a semi-pointed crown guard case. And most likely not produced for very long. Subsequently the dial layout changed to the classic "Snowflake" design with square markers and square hands.

      Technically the 7016 features a ETA Cal. 2483. It's a 25 jewel movement (as opposed to the 17j cal. 390 in the older Reference 7928). In the Tudor / Rolex technical service manuals it is designated as 2461-2483. In the past this covers an internal and an external reference number.

      The 7021 features the cal. 2484. Main difference is of course the date feature.



      Reference 9401/0 & 9411/0

      The next generation of Submariners, following the 7016/7021 are the 9401/0 and 9411/0. These watches feature an option of blue or black dials. They exist in various variations.

      9401/0 - Produced circa. 1975-76. Non-Date. Blue or black dial with "snowflake" markers and hands.
      9411/0 - Produced circa. 1975-76. Date. Blue or black dial with "snowflake" markers and hands.
      94010 - Produced circa. 1976-83. Till circa 1980 (the introduction of 5 digit serials, reverted) had the "Snowflake" design. From circa. 1980-83 - Triangle marked dials.
      94110 - Produced circa. 1976-83. Till circa 1980 (the introduction of 5 digit serials, reverted) had the "Snowflake" design. From circa. 1980-83 - Triangle marked dials.

      The 94010 Snowflake is most notably known for it's use by the Franch Navy. And it is the only "verifiable" Military watch other than the Rolex Military 5513/5517's. These were of course also sold in fairly big numbers in the civilian market.

      The non-date 9401/0 (and later 94010) featured a Cal. 2776 movement. ETA based - modified by Tudor. The Date versions (9411/0 and 94110) featured a cal 2784.



      Snowflake build from a while ago by Bonesey

      Pictorial of Tudor Snowflake 9401/0 with Bonus Articles at the end.. by Justlounging

      Just another Blue Tudor Snowflake 9401/0 by civic4982

      Tudor Snowflake 9401:Update On Build by txrob779

      Tudor snowflake by rucou2273

      "Right" Blue Bezel for Tudor Snowflake by vakthund

      Does anyone have a gen (or rep) Tudor snowflake? by mrnemo

      Tudor Submariner 9411 by federico

      Old friend re-visited - Tudor 9401 Blue Snowflake by Bonesey

      Tudor Snowflake 94010-HV3 aka Henry VIII by txrob779

      Reference 76100

      The 76100 is interesting indeed. It is one of the "low production" transitional watches that Tudor excelled in. The 76100 only existed with a date. Whats interesting is that it seems that it was produced along side the 94110. Optically it is identical to the later 94110 (with triangle marker matté tritium dial) - however it had different hands - including a big bubble - hours hands which is quite distinct.

      Earliest 76100 serial seen is 64.000 range - which is literally a few hundred numbers away from the last 94010. Interestingly enough the Rolex R20 manual from 1984 does not feature the 76100. This leads me to believe it was introduced in 84. To further complicate matters, the 94010 in question is a MN83 (Marine Nationale, issued in 1983) so there seems to be a gap in the serial numbers - perhaps even a production halt for a period of time.



      ~ Tudor Chronograph ~

      In 1970 Tudor introduced their first Chronograph. The reference 7031. The design of the Chronograph itself is very similar to that of the Rolex counterpart. However there is a few differences. The cases are more "fat" and taller than the Rolex versions. The watches feature a manual wind movement and a two register chronograph function. What really make these watches unique is the very iconic 1970's dial design. This design has followed the next 2 variations of the Tudor Chronograph which is a production model through 1970-1980.



      Monte Carlo 7031/32

      The first Chronographs are called "Homeplate" by collectors. This is due to the unique looking tritium markers. As far as we can see they were introduced in 1970. The last ones seen have serials corresponding to circa 1972. This is a very short production run - and very seldom seen in Rolex production lines. The 7032 sports the '500 tachy dial - solid fitted bezel. The movement in the 7031/32 is a Valjoux 7734. Which is a manual wind movement. Note the date window at 6 is uniquely "turned" and is in fact a standard cyclope that is fitted turned half way compared to ordinary Rolex cyclopes. The Reference 128 crystal is only used on the 2 register models - 70xx and 71xx models.

      1st Generation Homeplate variations:

      Black base dial with grey area subdials.
      Grey base dial with black area subdials.
      6263 Style Bakelite bezel.
      6265 Style solid stainless bezel.



      My Monte Carlo 7032 build thread by Ko67

      Tudor 7031 by Avenger007

      Tudor 7032 Monte Carlo ;-) by Ed911

      DW 7032: Tudor Monte Carlo Work-in-progress by LHOOQ

      DW 7032: Iteration by LHOOQ

      My Tudor 7032 by RolexAddict - PICS by Edgematic

      DW 7032 vs Gen Tudor 7149: Photo-Comparison by LHOOQ

      Finished tudor ref.7032 by lbd1014

      Would-Be Donors: Gallet V72 and Wakmann V7734 by LHOOQ

      Finally Filled a Gaping Hole in My Tudor Collection - 7032 by JMB

      Monte Carlo 7149 / 7159 / 7169

      In 1972 Tudor altered the Chronograph line. It is unknown why the 7031/32 had such a short production run, however the 71xx series appeared approximately two years after the old series started. The new version was also a 2 register chronograph. It came in three case variations.

      7149. Features a classic Rolex Daytona 6263 style Bakelite bezel. Exists in black or blue versions.
      7159. Features a solid metal bezel similar to the Rolex 6265 bezel design. Tachymetre goes to '500.
      7169. Features a metal bezel insert that is turn-able. This is a unique Tudor design. Exists in black and blue.

      The 71xx series all feature a manual wind Valjoux Cal. 234, 17 ruby movement. The watches are water proof till 50 meters. Similar to the 703x series they feature the Cyclope 128 plexi crystal.



      DW 7032 vs Gen Tudor 7149: Photo-Comparison by LHOOQ

      Tudor Chronograph Reference 9420 / 9430 / 94200 / 94300

      The 94xx series is the first automatic Tudor Chronograph. It features the Valjoux Cal. 7750 workhorse. A classic movement still in use today. When these were introduced in still a bit sketchy but the serial number project indicates that they were introduced around 1976.

      9420/0 - Bakelite fixed bezel
      9421/0 - Rotating bezel
      9430/0 - Fixed Metal bezel

      94200 - Bakelite fixed bezel
      94210 - Rotating bezel
      94300 - Fixed metal bezel



      Tudor Military Watches

      It is commonly known in the collector community that Tudors were extensively used as issued Military watches. The reasons may be numerous, but the main one is most likely cost.

      In the military watch collectors community there are several variations of collect-ability. I have tried to categorize this in rarity levels. Where 1 is the least rare.

      1. Watch purchased by service personnel and used on duty - often seen or documented in books or similar resources.
      2. Watch purchased by DOD or specific military branch directly at Authorized dealership - With or without markings
      3. Watch purchased by DOD or specific military branch directly from Rolex / Tudor - and no markings
      4. Watch purchased by DOD or specific military branch directly from Rolex / Tudor - and structured application of military markings by DOD / Branch
      5. Watch purchased by DOD or specific military branch directly from Rolex / Tudor - and structured application of military markings by DOD / Branch + special hands and dials
      6. Watch purchased by DOD or specific military branch directly from Rolex / Tudor - and structured application of military markings by DOD / Branch + special hands and dials / Panerai.

      Type 5 watches would include the British issued milsubs with special references, engravings and specialized hands and dials. These are among the most coveted military watches - and prices soar above the 50-100.000 euro range depending on specifications. Type 6 include the ultra rare 1940's military Panerai.

      So far, we have identified military use Tudors from the following countries:

      - France. Type 4 watches. Sold in batches directly from Tudor. Marked by French navy. Issued through the 1960, 70's and early 1980's.
      - Canada. Type 2 watches have been rumored. Typically from specific batches from bought in free trade from AD's.
      - USA. Type 3 and 4. Certain very early 1960's pieces have been identified. Most Vietnam area pieces are Type 1's - and widely identified and discussed.
      - Argentina. Researching.
      - Israel. Rolex 5513 and Tudor 7928 has been seen with IDF issue numbers on the caseback. Also other brands seen. Most likely type 4.

      Contributers to this WIKI:

      I would like to thank the following people for contacting me and adding to this WIKI page. Due to the nature of vintage builds I have added some people based on their past contributions to our vast amount of information on this forum. My thanks go out to them for willing to take time and write up some excellent threads and take some excellent photographs of their watches.

      AskMeAgain
      txrob779
      subjeff
      LHOOQ
      Debellum
      Rol_Man
      ​​​​​​​


      TitleistRolex: my question wasn't to ask "Hey QueDick can you tell any flaws of this watch or that watch?!"
      RM#1:
      I’ll give you my cell and FaceTime me and I’ll show you wealth you petty lil child



      QFOAHDT

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