Franken advice

[Danlee224]

I currently have a franken 16610 in the works and my question is this: are there any comparable alternatives to the gen xtal? Getting a gen B25-295-CAR-C1 runs about 350ish, and while id love to have gen crystal on the sub im wondering if it is worth it when put against alternatives. Advice?

 

[phdsjain]

@rnrprof new xtal with blackhole effect. $180 new.

 

[Caesar]

You could message prof and see if he'll sell you one of his "black hole" crystals. Not sure of his price, but I believe it is less than $350 and looks phenomenal!

 

[Rx4Time]

I love profs crystals, and have a couple installed, but Rolex is such a recognized brand and model I personally feel the need to be a purist with franken parts. realistically as long as the black hole effect is present, it's going to be virtually impossible to tell the difference between gen and profs unless you are up on the watch with a loupe.

 

[JackJ1980]

I think you're confusing your build. Is this is a 16610 or a 116610 ceramic? If it's a 5 digit, you would not use a blackhole effect xtal. The Rolex gen would be under 200. Also, it would have no lec and no ar. If you want a cheaper but good alternative, TC xtal or Clark's xtal. It also would matter a little if you're using a JF, BP, or TC for this franken.

 

[JackJ1980]

If you meant SubC 6 digit, you'll need a blackhole Aka lec and ar'd cyclops. This can also be found through other vendors like Clark's, noob, prof, or gen. Feel free to PM me if you need further help my opinions on which options are best. Good luck with your build. They are tons of fun

 

[Danlee224]

If you meant SubC 6 digit, you'll need a blackhole Aka lec and ar'd cyclops. This can also be found through other vendors like Clark's, noob, prof, or gen. Feel free to PM me if you need further help my opinions on which options are best. Good luck with your build. They are tons of fun

I did mean a 5 digit. I believe i'm going to go with a prof xtal. Thanks for the advice everyone!

 

[Danlee224]

I think you're confusing your build. Is this is a 16610 or a 116610 ceramic? If it's a 5 digit, you would not use a blackhole effect xtal. The Rolex gen would be under 200. Also, it would have no lec and no ar. If you want a cheaper but good alternative, TC xtal or Clark's xtal. It also would matter a little if you're using a JF, BP, or TC for this franken.

Do you know what the part referance for a 5 digit xtal?

 

[JackJ1980]

Prof blackhole xtal is great however is not correct for a 5 digit. A Rolex owner will know the difference as a heads up.

 

[Danlee224]

Prof blackhole xtal is great however is not correct for a 5 digit. A Rolex owner will know the difference as a heads up.

Good heads up, i appretiate it. Im doing a tritium 5 digit build and definitely want to be period correct.

 

[JackJ1980]

Do you know what the part referance for a 5 digit xtal?

Depends on year why I was asking model. My guess if you're considering a blackhole you're in the LEC timeframe so it's a 25-295-C2

 

[Danlee224]

Depends on year why I was asking model. My guess if you're considering a blackhole you're in the LEC timeframe so it's a 25-295-C2

This is the dial im using for the build, to my understanding its the earliest iteration of the 5 digit sub. If that helps any. What do the gen crystals for these run for?

 

[JackJ1980]

Used around 1-200. Brand new they are reaching into the 300's now due to rarity. Rolex no longer makes or sells them. So getting harder to find. @Sub007 had a few recently I think of no ar no lec sub xtals. Used for around 125 euro but in good shape. You planning on swimming with it?

 

[JackJ1980]

Love the creamy tritium matte dial. Great find

 

[Danlee224]

Love the creamy tritium matte dial. Great find

Thanks mate :05.18-flustered: and im not planning on swimming with it unless I get it properly waterproofed. Any particular reason why you ask?

 

[alligoat]

This is an R serial 16610- the earliest model from 1988. It has the 25-295-C2 crystal, no LEC, no AR. This watch has the same dial as you have- I refer to it as the MK1. This dial was used during that time period in the 16800, 168000 and the 16610.
The case is your next most important item. A ST3135 case with lugholes would be good or a TC case with the lugholes drilled would be another possibility. I don't know if a BP or JF would work (you'd still have to drill the lugholes.) Until you get the case squared away, I'd just get a Clark crystal- you can always upgrade later.
A flat 4 bezel insert would also be period correct. Good luck

 

[Danlee224]

This is an R serial 16610- the earliest model from 1988. It has the 25-295-C2 crystal, no LEC, no AR. This watch has the same dial as you have- I refer to it as the MK1. This dial was used during that time period in the 16800, 168000 and the 16610.
The case is your next most important item. A ST3135 case with lugholes would be good or a TC case with the lugholes drilled would be another possibility. I don't know if a BP or JF would work (you'd still have to drill the lugholes.) Until you get the case squared away, I'd just get a Clark crystal- you can always upgrade later.
A flat 4 bezel insert would also be period correct. Good luck

Thanks for the detailed info! Already have a flat four bezel on the way. Just need to square away the case. If only I could get ahold of a TC..

 

[JackJ1980]

Ouch. Flat four is a $$$ word. But will look awesome. I'd recommend a ST case at $170 over the TC for this personally as it's easier when you add the yuki or sh3135

 

[Danlee224]

Ouch. Flat four is a $$$ word. But will look awesome. I'd recommend a ST case at $170 over the TC for this personally as it's easier when you add the yuki or sh3135

Got this one for 160usd! Talked him down on the asking price.


Where might I pick up an ST case? I was definitely planning on sh3135 for the movement.

 

[JackJ1980]

You need someone with an account to order for you