Datejust 1601 Super Franken Build

[Berndstein]

Hi peeps,

I'm in the process building my first franken rollie.

It's a Datejust 1601 with almost everything gen except the movement.
The movement is an ETA 2824-2.

I really had a hard time getting the DWO installed, so that it switches smoothly.

I'm still not sure if it's well aligned.

So maybe someone could voice an opinion?
(It's still in process, the Hands are missing and there is some dust inside the case, I know that [emoji51])

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[eswilly]

Is it off to the left or is it me?


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[Berndstein]

Is it off to the left or is it me?


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The 27? I think you might be right here. Not sure, looking at it when I have it on the wrist it's hardly noticeable. The DWO however is "perfectly" centred on top of the ETA date wheel ... as far as I can tell. At least the date switches smoothly with quick set and regularly.


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[Juhani]

Klasse!

 

[Berndstein]

Klasse!

Danke für die Blumen [emoji4][emoji106]


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[vmarks]

This is a 1603. Love it. I have a 16030 that's 2824 powered the same way. The date wheel looks pretty good to me. You're doing a watch that is nominally 52 years old.


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[Berndstein]

This is a 1603. Love it. I have a 16030 that's 2824 powered the same way. The date wheel looks pretty good to me. You're doing a watch that is nominally 52 years old.


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You're right I guess. Didn't know those are basically the same. The case and caseback said 1601 so I thought that's the model.

The serial number is in the 3.2 million, so it should be a 72/73 model, right?

How did you manage to get enough clearance between date wheel/DWO and dial? I had to make several attempts to get it right.
I've also read that a higher pinion (I think H4?) should be used, did you do that?
Because then the movement has to go to a watchsmith [emoji53]


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[vmarks]

You're right I guess. Didn't know those are basically the same. The case and caseback said 1601 so I thought that's the model.

The serial number is in the 3.2 million, so it should be a 72/73 model, right?

How did you manage to get enough clearance between date wheel/DWO and dial? I had to make several attempts to get it right.
I've also read that a higher pinion (I think H4?) should be used, did you do that?
Because then the movement has to go to a watchsmith [emoji53]


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Do the h4.

1601 is a two tone with fluted bezel. Also could have been white gold fluted. 1603 is the steel engine turned bezel like you have. Rolex is picky about these things- if your case and back didn't say 1603, they'd charge you to convert it back to two tone.

 

[Berndstein]

Do the h4.

I was afraid you'd say something like that [emoji51]
Then all my work up to this point is void. Goddammit.

What exactly is the purpose of that H4 thingi?



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[vmarks]

I was afraid you'd say something like that [emoji51]
Then all my work up to this point is void. Goddammit.

What exactly is the purpose of that H4 thingi?



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It raises the hands so they're evenly spaced as they are on a Rolex movement and helps clear the markers on the dial, I believe.

 

[alligoat]

A couple of things- one, you're not using a pie pan dial from what I can see. The 1600 DJs had pie pan dial. It's ok with a flat 16000 dial and it'll work with the 2824-2 in the case. I used a 2824-2 in a 1600 case to build a 1016 Explorer and it worked fine.
Second, try the hands and see how they do. The hour hand is shorter so it doesn't go out to the hour markers. if the minute hand clears the hour markers, you'll be ok. if not, then you'll need the H4 pinion. But might as well try first.

 

[fuerst07]

Mine looks much worse...

Good enough I would say... I avoided the H4 topic by using the ETA 2836 that comes with a bit higher hand tubes already.
With my dial I really needed that, as the hour markers of the Gen Rolex dial are that high, that the minutes hand really needs to be up enough to be above them...
Also, looks that good and Gen- like, if the hands are not too deep on the dial... This is really substantial.

 

[vmarks]

This is my 16030 with 2824 h4.

 

[silentflight]

The 2824 with standard h2 height will NOT clear the hour markers with the minutes hand.

A 2836 with h3 height will also be dangerously close, and will need the minute hand slightly bent as well as the seconds. This will cause issues with your minute hand becoming loose. (Ask me how I know).

The h4 conversion is almost a "must" for all Rolex builds. At the minimum it makes it gen like.

2836 with raffles #2 spacer is a recipe for success.

 

[Berndstein]

OK OK ... you have me convinced [emoji51]

I've just ordered an H4 Set on the Bay.
Parts 227, 242 and 255/1, right?
Is 27 USD for those three parts ok?

One thing that also bothers me: Where can I get a good Quality bracelet (president or jubilee I guess, right? With really good fitting SEL!) in the price range up to 100 USD?


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[vmarks]

OK OK ... you have me convinced [emoji51]

I've just ordered an H4 Set on the Bay.
Parts 227, 242 and 255/1, right?
Is 27 USD for those three parts ok?

One thing that also bothers me: Where can I get a good Quality bracelet (president or jubilee I guess, right? With really good fitting SEL!) in the price range up to 100 USD?


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My jubilee is a six dollar one off amazon. All the money went into gen case, dial, crown, bezel, crystal.

Remember, sel weren't around until 2000 or so. There are no sel that fit a 1601 case. Folded links that fit badly aren't far from gen.


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[jmb]

If you use the correct pie-pan dial you can use a 2836 movement and bypass the DWO clearance issues.

 

[Stuvetjee]

looking awesome so far! good luck with the H4!

 

[fuerst07]

Just trained myself to remove and rebuild the H4 wheels. I got myself an old Swatch mechanical mvmt. Well...can be done but is some kind of entertaining experience to fiddle back all 4 pinions into their respective holes to place back the bridge. But anyway, these DJ are really so nice, worth every effort..

Regarding bracelets: I got myself a Raffles Jubilee and Oyster with the non-solid SELs. Came quick and safe to Germany. Price/Quality is ok at best, meaning they have been cheap. Got an Oyster at Yuki before, more expensive but better quality. Web page shows "no shipping to DE due to customs"...

 

[Berndstein]

Just trained myself to remove and rebuild the H4 wheels. I got myself an old Swatch mechanical mvmt. Well...can be done but is some kind of entertaining experience to fiddle back all 4 pinions into their respective holes to place back the bridge. But anyway, these DJ are really so nice, worth every effort..

Regarding bracelets: I got myself a Raffles Jubilee and Oyster with the non-solid SELs. Came quick and safe to Germany. Price/Quality is ok at best, meaning they have been cheap. Got an Oyster at Yuki before, more expensive but better quality. Web page shows "no shipping to DE due to customs"...

Yeah, I don't really think I have the patience and the steady hand for that task. I even have problems setting the Hands correctly [emoji51].
But I'll have to visit Domi in FFM anyway, bought a Sinn Rep in the M2M section which doesn't work properly and the User said Domi is the "go to guy" for all things Rep. Still have to ask Domi if he can make some time for me though [emoji13]

Regarding the bracelet ... I've decided to go another way here. The DJ always has a bracelet, mine will be different. I'll use solid end links and a leather strap. Most likely a black polished stingray strap with silver stitching and original rolex 16 mm buckle.


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