A guide to 16800 builds

[QueTip]

The 16800


I've been thinking about this for quite a while yet and thought I would do a little tutorial on 16800 builds as the one I did on the Bluesy builds.
Since there are NO reps of that model, you HAVE to build it to have it.


So first things first.. The 16800

Basically it is the model between the 1680 and the 16610 (168000 actually but are we counting this??)


It is a pretty unpopular Rolex in collectors eyes so far but I am totally positive that will change drastically over time with the rarity of the Pallettoni dials and the special spider dials that are popping up in those pieces, there most likely is a great potential in those pieces.



Improvements compared to the 1680:

- Saphire Crystal -> no more acrylic
- Rolex Cal 3035 -> no more 1570/5 (-> added QuickSet function and now high beat)
- Unidirectional rotating bezel
- Waterproof to a depth of 300m -> 200m on the 1680
- New crown - 703 (trip lock) -> 700 on the 1680
- 93150 Bracelet with 593 end links -> 7206 or 9315 on the 1680 with 580 end links

​

16800

1680​

Now let's get to the building.

Of course you will want a decent case as a base for your build. I also have to say this is probably one of the hardest tasks in repdom.
Find a correct case...

There are not many to choose...

Only ones I know about that are usable are:

- 3035 ST case (old and super rare)
- Phong 16800 case ($$$)


Sure you could use a TC case too but that wouldn't have a shallow rehaut and just be incorrect, also you will have to drill lug holes. It's up to you to decide if you can live with that flaw or not. Imho it's not too much of a biggie but I would still hunt for a correct case.

Once you have a case, move on with the sourcing of a crystal, crown and tube.
I personally would go gen on all of those.

- nonAR 295c sapphire crystal
- 703 crown and tube

After that, I would go with the decision of the bezel assembly and the bezel ring.

Your choices are:

- Genuine
- Phong
- ST
- TC (if you go TC case)


Bezel insert HAS to be gen imho so there goes that.



Now we have almost everything except for movement, bracelet, hands and dial eh? Yeah exactly.

Now it is yours to choose if you want to go matte dial (Pallettoni) or gloss dial (with WG surrounds)

Special dials would be the Spider dials (also $$$ if proper one)

Spider dial:

The matte dials are pretty expensive to buy if you can even find them in an acceptable condition. They are really hard to come by.

The gloss ones although are out there like sand on the beach, you can find them literally everywhere and also score pretty good deals on them



To be periodic correct there are several Marks for the dials..


Matte dials:


Mk1:

Mk2:

Rare dial, can usually be found on watches with serial numbers from 6.1 to 8.5 mil ('84-'85)
The hyphen in the wording 'Swiss - T<25' is perfectly centered with the '6 Marker whilst on the Mk1 it was placed more on the right.
Also in the depth indication the tail of the letter 'f' almost touches the tip of the letter V in 'SUPERLATIVE'.


Mk3:

Even rarer dial than mk2
The two hyphens of the '=' in the depth indication are staggered - not aligned to each other

Mk4:

Now the Mk4 is a special dial since it is a dial that was around at the early serials.
It is unique for the font of the 'ft' and the inclination.


Gloss dials:


Mk1:

Mk2:

I think the difference between gloss Mk1 and Mk2 are obvious, so I will not get into them now.





If you have found a dial you like, go and buy a hands set, you should use:

- genuine
- TC LN v3

and age them to match the Patina of your dial.


When it comes to the movement, the question is all about your wallet.


You can go:

- genuine cal. 3035
- ETA


Now last but not least, we're having the bracelet..

For that you can choose between those:

- genuine 93150
- PT 93150
- anything else aftermarket

However I would suggest at least getting a genuine clasp for it.
Please also keep the dating of the clasp code in mind so that it mates up with the rest of your build specs.


After you have sourced all of those parts, send them out to the watchmaker of your choice and have him build the 16800.








Happy building! :cheers:

​

 

[QueTip]

Please let me know, if I have not mentioned anything or if I forgot to add anything. Thanks!!

 

[silentflight]

I assume your case suggestions would also work for 16803 builds?

 

[QueTip]

I assume your case suggestions would also work for 16803 builds?

Yup. The 16803 case is a 16800 case. It has that inside the casebook. It's just the lugs that are engraved to 16803.

Case wise they're absolutely identical.

 

[gbxx]

How is the current production ST case for a build like this? It's complete with lug holes! I haven't seen one in person though so I don't know what level of quality is...

 

[magoohkg]

I like the plain look of the 16800 but somehow still prefer the 5512. Nice thread, very informative, thanks!


Dërgo nga ipad tim duke përdorur Tapatalk

 

[Mendota]

Very helpful info. Does the Phong case come with the bezel assembly?

Could you use a yuki 3135 modded by Misiekped, or does the 3035 have different dimensions? It seems like you could build a super sweet genken if the Yuki would work.

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[QueTip]

How is the current production ST case for a build like this? It's complete with lug holes! I haven't seen one in person though so I don't know what level of quality is...

The ST3035 cases were superior in every aspect. Everything on them was correct for a 16800 build. The nowish ones are not designed for 3035 but a mix of both. They are alright but not like the old ones.

Very helpful info. Does the Phong case come with the bezel assembly?

Could you use a yuki 3135 modded by Misiekped, or does the 3035 have different dimensions? It seems like you could build a super sweet genken if the Yuki would work.

Phongs case usually comes with the bezel assembly, yes. Apparently you can use a Yuki in the ST case although that would make the whole movement operations wrong since the gen only used the 3035.

Also with the 3135 spec movement you will want to use a genuine date disc and good luck finding one of them old open 6 datediscs for the 3135. They are super hard and expensive to come by.

Stick with an ETA or better yet go gen 3035 if the budget allows it if you ask me..

 

[Mendota]

The ST3035 cases were superior in every aspect. Everything on them was correct for a 16800 build. The nowish ones are not designed for 3035 but a mix of both. They are alright but not like the old ones.



Phongs case usually comes with the bezel assembly, yes. Apparently you can use a Yuki in the ST case although that would make the whole movement operations wrong since the gen only used the 3035.

Also with the 3135 spec movement you will want to use a genuine date disc and good luck finding one of them old open 6 datediscs for the 3135. They are super hard and expensive to come by.

Stick with an ETA or better yet go gen 3035 if the budget allows it if you ask me..

I remember both you and occb2 mentioning the ST lugholes case in an early 16610 franken discussion, as well. And in that one you can use the Y3135. I haven't been on their site, but do they also have a 16610 lugholes case? Is there a whole selection of replacement cases? It seemed like the ST 16610 case was much better.

The cost difference between the Phong and ST is huge.That difference alone would almost pay for a gen movement. :-(

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[QueTip]

I remember both you and occb2 mentioning the ST lugholes case in an early 16610 franken discussion, as well. And in that one you can use the Y3135. I haven't been on their site, but do they also have a 16610 lugholes case? Is there a whole selection of replacement cases? It seemed like the ST 16610 case was much better.

The cost difference between the Phong and ST is huge.That difference alone would almost pay for a gen movement. :-(

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There are several cases ST offered during the time.

Back when the case I mentioned on the thread was around, there was one for the 3035 designed watches and one for the 3135. The 3035 was THE shit literally. It still is if you can get your hands on one.

Tbh I have not seen the newer ST cases but I remember they are said to be both 3135 and 3035 compatible. That makes it sound like it does not have the correct for 16800 shallow reheat but the regular 16610 one.

Also are you sure, the difference covers a 3035?

 

[Mendota]

There are several cases ST offered during the time.

Back when the case I mentioned on the thread was around, there was one for the 3035 designed watches and one for the 3135. The 3035 was THE shit literally. It still is if you can get your hands on one.

Tbh I have not seen the newer ST cases but I remember they are said to be both 3135 and 3035 compatible. That makes it sound like it does not have the correct for 16800 shallow reheat but the regular 16610 one.

Also are you sure, the difference covers a 3035?

Great info. No, I'm sure a 3035 is way more than that. I was just making a point that it is a huge price difference between those cases ($1,200+) so you really have to be committed. It is too bad that ST doesn't have those good 16800 cases anymore.

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[QueTip]

Great info. No, I'm sure a 3035 is way more than that. I was just making a point that it is a huge price difference between those cases ($1,200+) so you really have to be committed. It is too bad that ST doesn't have those good 16800 cases anymore.

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I'm pretty positive there was one up on m2m here not too long ago. Maybe give that a check....

 

[alligoat]

A couple of things here- first of all, isn't the ST3035 case gone- no longer available? It would take a 2836-2 or a 2834-2 fairly easily.
I used it 3-4 years ago when I rebuilt my 16800

Your dial history is pretty good except you've left out the Beyeler dials with WG surrounds that came out in '84 and lasted for a year or two. These dials would have the same printed font as the matte dials and were supposedly gloss dials but a lot of them have lost their gloss over time. This is a Beyeler dial- circa 84-85.

 

[QueTip]

A couple of things here- first of all, isn't the ST3035 case gone- no longer available? It would take a 2836-2 or a 2834-2 fairly easily.
I used it 3-4 years ago when I rebuilt my 16800

Your dial history is pretty good except you've left out the Beyeler dials with WG surrounds that came out in '84 and lasted for a year or two. These dials would have the same printed font as the matte dials and were supposedly gloss dials but a lot of them have lost their gloss over time. This is a Beyeler dial- circa 84-85.

Yeah, I've said it, that the ST cases are long gone.

Shit, you're right. The Bicchierini dial, you are right, I forgot about that! Thanks mate!

 

[Scarra]

QueTip,
Great work on the 16800 info (and for everyone else's on this thread). I actually modded a gen dial to a yuki 3135 and it worked great. Did have some trouble with the case (I was hoping you or someone had more ideas/options that could work!) I used a 16610 but had to do some major work to get everything set right (frankly, it was a pain to get it all lined up and the date window is slightly off; I wear it on my right wrist, so it actually works for me, but its noticeable).
I want to do another build with this dial and set, but would rather find a better case or solution.

 

[Hugop]

[MENTION=84501]QueTip[/MENTION] another very informative thread brother! I would have been thrilled to have this guide in 2014 when I started my 16800 quest. Mine has just returned from the misiekped spa where she was treated to a newly serviced yuki 3135 that is now running 0 sec of error!

While she was apart I added a gen date disc. As mentioned earlier in the thread I also looked for the open 6 and 9 for 3135 with no luck. But I do love the serifs on the disc I did find.

@mendota has been very helpful with info building mine and yes M I am still wearing it on the lughole 93250 sel bracelet. I do have a gen 93150 clasp now and am looking for a set of links for it. Mine is based on the TC case and has been drilled and does have a little deeper rehaut but doesn't bother me. Dial is the Beyeler stamped dial and I believe was one of the transition dials going to luminova. The dial still has good lume and looks gen. There was a discussion on TRF outlining the fact that the factory used up the Tritium dials but switched over to luminova as soon as it was available.

Here is a current pic and she is still not finished. Next plans include a flat 4 insert and the elusive 93150 bracelet.

 

[QueTip]

@QueTip another very informative thread brother! I would have been thrilled to have this guide in 2014 when I started my 16800 quest. Mine has just returned from the misiekped spa where she was treated to a newly serviced yuki 3135 that is now running 0 sec of error!

Lol, thanks bro. Should've just PMed me about it haha. Your 16800 looks great, I'm currently modding mine again. Changing out my spider dial for a Pallettoni.

 

[Hugop]

Also for those of you wanting a look at the ST case. I just helped [MENTION=3289]007[/MENTION] get this little beauty together. It is the later ST so the Yuki worked great. This was a distressed MK II glossy we found. He also sourced a gen blue insert thatbis just stunning next to that dial.

This one received the full Misiekped treatment as well. Mike also sourced the gen hand set.

 

[Hugop]

It stopped raining so here is a couple of good daylight pics of that Beyeler dial.

 

[Mendota]

I just tried navigating through the ST website and I cannot find any replacement cases anywhere. I tried doing a site search and nothing comes up. What's the best way to find it on the site?

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