JF Daytona 23J Subdial frozen how to.

[AlexRol]

I love Rolex Daytona http://bigben777.com.ua/katalog/rolex
Cool Watch !!!

 

[Vlad K]

???? ????????? ?????? ??? ??? ???????? ???? ????? http://yourtime.com.ua/ ????????? ??? ?? ? ??????? ???????

 

[aprolexlover]

credits to [MENTION=30895]2671[/MENTION] for making it now a great rep!

I have made a few shots comparing the JF new 116520 to my Gen. It is amazingly close to the real deal. The crown guard reshaping suggest by a few fellas is a must compare to other minor discrepancies. The rehaut sanding and RRR removing is good if you have the skill to DIY due to wrong font and satin finish. The crown sits a bit low I would say about 1.0mm compared to gen, it don't look that bad in reality but it's there when you know what to look for. The bezel font and thickness seem fine to me, switching to 7750 bezel is a bit overdosed.

The gen tips the scale at 12.7 vs the rep 12.85 with the same protective film (from JF factory) stuck to caseback, to me it's dead on. For those who still anal about this can either shave the crystal gasket or the case back down 0.1mm... What amazes me is the overall fit and finish, it really screams gen, unlike Noob factory the new JFs don't have sharp edges anywhere on the watch head, it's a huge step forward in the rep world.

The SEL is rubbish while the clasp is 90% on the outside 50% inside, quality wise. That said I have a BP band ordered from a friend of mine who lives in GZ, yet to receive and I'll post an update when it gets in. I'll freeze the 3 & 9 Subdials when I have time to fiddle with it, it bothers me a bit for daily reset and I dun wanna pay for new crown and tube set every few months down the road... Enjoy the pics!
















23J white dial is breathtaking, nothing beats gen crystal! I am sure it's the same movement in ours. You also had the RRR engraving removed and sanded rehaut, it really brings it to the next level. Frankly I am not a big fan of the engraving gen or rep, plain jane always looks better to me. This new JF 116520 does not have plastic movement spacer but a metal one.

The lug engravings say Steel & 18K Yellow Gold and 116523, I'd expect a 2 tone model to follow. I also have this old Canal Street rep given by a customer laying around, I bet that's the same one you had worked on in your thread.

I'll post an update when the new BP band comes in and time to work on the new Nan Ning 3836 (I believe it is) movement.

Here's a few pics for reference.

P.S. For those who are not familiar with this movement. The one with spring bars is JF's new 116520 with NN3836 movement.






MODDING THE SUBDIALS TO FROZEN:

It's time for a litte recap and update on this project. To disable the day date subdials on this JF 116520 Daytona, all you need to do is to remove TWO wheels as shown below. If you know what your doing and don't have a fainted heart, it's a great weekend DIY project for you.

Removing the movement from the case is pretty straightforward and I'll skip a thousand words. Dial off, first thing you'll notice is a plate or bridge, being held down by 11 screws! Carefully remove them and get the plate out of your way. Exposed are the day and date wheels, take off the two wheels as shown in my pics. You can also leave the levers there since they don't mean nothing now. A litte dab of epoxy glue on the two wheels to make sure they don't spin when you put the subdial hands back on. Voila, mission completed!

Since the movement was out, I spent sometime to sand off the rehaut engraving to a period-correct 2000-2005 year model and shaved off a chunk of metal (from the top) to thin out the thick rehaut. Reshaping the crown guards and polish the SEL on this JF band to my liking. In fact, this band is not that bad compared to the BP band I acquired from my GZ friend, nothing a bit of proper sanding and polish can't fix. The awkward SEL curve to some don't bother me too much cos I have small wrists. The BP band I got was $50 but quality wise don't even come close to any late model TC Sub band, so forget it...























FINAL RESULT:

Hey mate, this is a great topic for us to reference. Do you mind updating the photos, photobucket is going all head wired in recent months. Would be really interesting to see the photos you've posted. Many thanks in advance!

 

[Stuvetjee]

Hey mate, this is a great topic for us to reference. Do you mind updating the photos, photobucket is going all head wired in recent months. Would be really interesting to see the photos you've posted. Many thanks in advance!

Unfortunately the member had uploaded the pictures to his account

 

[aprolexlover]

Unfortunately the member had uploaded the pictures to his account

Oh dear

 

[Stuvetjee]

Oh dear

But this mod is only for the people who have the first batch of JF daytona 23J's. The 23J Daytona nowadays has already frozen subdials

 

[manodeoro]

I recently got (for free) a cheapie 116520 Daytona (with wrong ceramic bezel) that I'm trying to enhance.
I opend it and it seems to come with a DG3836P





I have already reworked the SELs and clasp.
The SELs looked like this



An after some sanding



At the moment I'm reworking the crownguards and I'll change the crown and tube.
The the only big flaw will be the ugly "WINNER" caseback but I'll live with that until I find a better one.



As I want to freeze the central second hand (and possibly the subdials @3 and @9) and keep the working second @6 I have made some research and I've found those old threads.
https://rwg.cc/topic/141562-how-to-reliable-sec-6-wnaning-3836-daytona/
https://rwg.cc/topic/111899-a-reliable-seconds-6-movement/
They are good only for a DG3836P (which is still available at cousons.uk for £28.26 shipping included) I think ... but for those who have that movement they are really informative.

I'll try the mod on my movement and tell you how it worked (if I dont screw it of course).
BTW ... my movement has a very low power reserve (about 2 hours) so I really wonder if oiling it would be good enoug or if I'd better buy a new one.