So my next buy will probably be the Datejust 36mm (116234 or 126234, not sure which one yet, leaning towards 12….). For this purpose, I have combed the forum looking for as much info as possible, but foremost as new/fresh info as possible. Since "what is the best dj36" seems to be a frequent question that rarely gets answered thoroughly (so much on the 41mm version….), I figured I´d share the results of my research.
A disclaimer right at the start, excluded from my resarch are all TT/gold versions, all roman numerals/wimbledons and diamond dials. I´m interested in just plain DJ with stick markers (w or w/o railway minute markers), both smooth and fluted bezel, both oyster and jubilee bracelet.
Here´s the state of the art of the Datejust 36mm (in relation to what´s been discussed in various threads from 2019 to today and current offerings on 5 TD´s sites) :
ARF: this is among the top-tier factories and generally regarded as one of the best versions available. Pro´s are the overall gen feel and looks and the outstanding bracelet (this one appears to be THE best out there). The only drawback is the datewheel font which in V1 and V2 options was a no-go (too thick), but, for some, was improved in the V3 version in 2020; some still consider it not sufficient still. There also were rumors of the rhodium plating of the bezel peeling off, but nothing I could confirm. One of the preferred characteristics of this watch is the modability/frankability for those who have the heart, wallet and patience to do so. For a franken, this is THE watch to buy.
Today, it comes with a 3135 movement. ARF does only fluted bezels, only 904L steel and only the 116234 DJ (railroad minute tracks). But beware that V2 and V3 versions are sold at the same price point (418$), so make sure with your TD what you´re getting!
DJF - also top-tier, by many regarded as the best option ootb (definitely so in 2019, in 2020 GMF raised some competition in this regard). Feel and looks very similar to ARF (ARF lovers will say lower quality…) with the plus of a correct dw font. Some also say that the crown action feels better/smoother than ARF (ETA clone movement). So the general quality (dial, hands, cyclops, bracelet) is good, maybe not as good as with ARF. Particularly cyclops position is incorrect since it carries an ETA clone. This is also the reason why it is difficult (impossible?) to mod/franken. On the other hand, les experienced guys like the possibility of an easy 1:1 swap with a gen ETA or Sellita movement if the A2xxx craps out.
DJF offers only the 116234 (old) reference. In 2019 it carried an A2836, available only in 316L SS, silver or blue dials, only fluted bezel and only oytesr bracelet (388$). Today there´s a version in 904L SS same options as above (348$)
GMF - in many ways, this has been a mistery version for a long time until in 2020 it was regarded as a solid best ootb option. Back in 2019 it was only issuing the 126234(newer) reference but only on oyster bracelet. Today you find also the 116234 version. The newer reference is offered in 904L SS fluted and smooth (fewer though) bezel and mostly jubilee bracelet. It comes with a 3235 mov (448-468$) or a 28xx movement (368$). Some TD´s say it´s 12,5mm thick, so worth inquiring if you´re not keen on fat cases (gen is 11,7mm). The older version comes also only in 904L SS, only 3135 mov, only smooth and only oyster bracelet (378$).
Be advised, the blue GMF has a purplish hue, which I´m not sure has been corrected in newer versions.
BPF - considered as mid-tier by most (except for ist Explorer 1), BP factory is trying to cover the needs of those who´re not too picky and don´t have a fat wallet. In my personal opinion (given you find the right model) almost always good bang for bucks. Opinions range from "fairly decent" to "crappy quality". Yes, overall the finishing quality is not up to par with the factories above, but flaws are barely noticeable irl and BP has good dials, mostly nailing colors and with good applications. I´ve read that BP and GMF are "sister" factories, and I´ve also recorded following statement: GMF > BPF = EWF. I can´t comment on that, don´t know personally, maybe someone can chime in and clarify relations and quality.
Today, BP´s DJ comes in the 116234 version, only in 316 F and 316L SS (30 to 50$ cheaper), only fluted bezel but both oyster and jubilee bracelets (silver, white, black dials) and mainly 3135 mov, a couple of 28xx mov options (278 - 338$).
In 2020 BP released the 126234 version, this comes in different configurations, smooth/fluted bezel, oyster/jubilee, 904L/316L SS, 28xx/3235 mov, ranging from 298$ (316L SS) to 348 and 408$. Thickness is also ´here sometimes recorded as 13mm, so check this out.
EWF - not much to say about EW factory, considered low-tier by most, TD´s also clasified them like this in 2019, I think they have improved in the last years but cannot say much about their DJ36´s overall quality. A positive is that TD´s advertise a 11,9mm thickness. They only have the 126234 version in 316L SS with a 3235 mov, fluted bezel, jubilee bracelet (288$). Be advised, the black dial looks quite pale, almost gray on the pics. That´s definitely one of the cheapest current offerings.
Some unrecorded models:
DIWF - a new factory, not much info there, some say quality is comparable to GMF. Offering the newer 126234 version in 904L SS, 3235 mov, only fluted bezel in black and blue (the latter just in oyster). Price point 388$.
XRF - Has a small 36mm DJ offering. Not much information, one thread concentrated more on TT and quickly turned south because of a quarrel between members, so not much objective information there, but at least that tells you the ever-present duality of this hobby: some focus on details and tend to see the glass half empty, others try to see it half full and say well, for the money it´s ok. XRF has the cheapest offering with the 126234 version in 316L SS, only fluted bezel, only jubilee, only 2836 mov (pink, blue, silver and white) at 258$. I guess this puts it on par with EWF.
Last but not least, the myth:
VSF - there´s been numerous times rumours of VSF releasing a 36mm version, but nothing ever happened. Since VSF is by most regarded as the best 41mm DJ, many hopes still envelope this dream. In my opinion, given the price point of the 41mm (>700$ at some TD´s) that´s nothing for me…
Final thoughts:
What I somewhat missed in the research was no discussion on bezel shape and color fidelity as in comparable 41mm threads. I would be grateful if someone could say something about it, at least confirming that if no discussion was made, there also is not a problem.
Finally, I notice that researches would be much more effective if members gave some indications:
Hope you enjoyed and someone found this helpful!
Take care!
Edit 10.01.2023:
There have been some developments since I first posted this with VSF and then clean entering the 36mm race. These two models probably top easily all the above-mentioned.
Some new threads:
forum.replica-watch.info
forum.replica-watch.info
A disclaimer right at the start, excluded from my resarch are all TT/gold versions, all roman numerals/wimbledons and diamond dials. I´m interested in just plain DJ with stick markers (w or w/o railway minute markers), both smooth and fluted bezel, both oyster and jubilee bracelet.
Here´s the state of the art of the Datejust 36mm (in relation to what´s been discussed in various threads from 2019 to today and current offerings on 5 TD´s sites) :
ARF: this is among the top-tier factories and generally regarded as one of the best versions available. Pro´s are the overall gen feel and looks and the outstanding bracelet (this one appears to be THE best out there). The only drawback is the datewheel font which in V1 and V2 options was a no-go (too thick), but, for some, was improved in the V3 version in 2020; some still consider it not sufficient still. There also were rumors of the rhodium plating of the bezel peeling off, but nothing I could confirm. One of the preferred characteristics of this watch is the modability/frankability for those who have the heart, wallet and patience to do so. For a franken, this is THE watch to buy.
Today, it comes with a 3135 movement. ARF does only fluted bezels, only 904L steel and only the 116234 DJ (railroad minute tracks). But beware that V2 and V3 versions are sold at the same price point (418$), so make sure with your TD what you´re getting!
DJF - also top-tier, by many regarded as the best option ootb (definitely so in 2019, in 2020 GMF raised some competition in this regard). Feel and looks very similar to ARF (ARF lovers will say lower quality…) with the plus of a correct dw font. Some also say that the crown action feels better/smoother than ARF (ETA clone movement). So the general quality (dial, hands, cyclops, bracelet) is good, maybe not as good as with ARF. Particularly cyclops position is incorrect since it carries an ETA clone. This is also the reason why it is difficult (impossible?) to mod/franken. On the other hand, les experienced guys like the possibility of an easy 1:1 swap with a gen ETA or Sellita movement if the A2xxx craps out.
DJF offers only the 116234 (old) reference. In 2019 it carried an A2836, available only in 316L SS, silver or blue dials, only fluted bezel and only oytesr bracelet (388$). Today there´s a version in 904L SS same options as above (348$)
GMF - in many ways, this has been a mistery version for a long time until in 2020 it was regarded as a solid best ootb option. Back in 2019 it was only issuing the 126234(newer) reference but only on oyster bracelet. Today you find also the 116234 version. The newer reference is offered in 904L SS fluted and smooth (fewer though) bezel and mostly jubilee bracelet. It comes with a 3235 mov (448-468$) or a 28xx movement (368$). Some TD´s say it´s 12,5mm thick, so worth inquiring if you´re not keen on fat cases (gen is 11,7mm). The older version comes also only in 904L SS, only 3135 mov, only smooth and only oyster bracelet (378$).
Be advised, the blue GMF has a purplish hue, which I´m not sure has been corrected in newer versions.
BPF - considered as mid-tier by most (except for ist Explorer 1), BP factory is trying to cover the needs of those who´re not too picky and don´t have a fat wallet. In my personal opinion (given you find the right model) almost always good bang for bucks. Opinions range from "fairly decent" to "crappy quality". Yes, overall the finishing quality is not up to par with the factories above, but flaws are barely noticeable irl and BP has good dials, mostly nailing colors and with good applications. I´ve read that BP and GMF are "sister" factories, and I´ve also recorded following statement: GMF > BPF = EWF. I can´t comment on that, don´t know personally, maybe someone can chime in and clarify relations and quality.
Today, BP´s DJ comes in the 116234 version, only in 316 F and 316L SS (30 to 50$ cheaper), only fluted bezel but both oyster and jubilee bracelets (silver, white, black dials) and mainly 3135 mov, a couple of 28xx mov options (278 - 338$).
In 2020 BP released the 126234 version, this comes in different configurations, smooth/fluted bezel, oyster/jubilee, 904L/316L SS, 28xx/3235 mov, ranging from 298$ (316L SS) to 348 and 408$. Thickness is also ´here sometimes recorded as 13mm, so check this out.
EWF - not much to say about EW factory, considered low-tier by most, TD´s also clasified them like this in 2019, I think they have improved in the last years but cannot say much about their DJ36´s overall quality. A positive is that TD´s advertise a 11,9mm thickness. They only have the 126234 version in 316L SS with a 3235 mov, fluted bezel, jubilee bracelet (288$). Be advised, the black dial looks quite pale, almost gray on the pics. That´s definitely one of the cheapest current offerings.
Some unrecorded models:
DIWF - a new factory, not much info there, some say quality is comparable to GMF. Offering the newer 126234 version in 904L SS, 3235 mov, only fluted bezel in black and blue (the latter just in oyster). Price point 388$.
XRF - Has a small 36mm DJ offering. Not much information, one thread concentrated more on TT and quickly turned south because of a quarrel between members, so not much objective information there, but at least that tells you the ever-present duality of this hobby: some focus on details and tend to see the glass half empty, others try to see it half full and say well, for the money it´s ok. XRF has the cheapest offering with the 126234 version in 316L SS, only fluted bezel, only jubilee, only 2836 mov (pink, blue, silver and white) at 258$. I guess this puts it on par with EWF.
Last but not least, the myth:
VSF - there´s been numerous times rumours of VSF releasing a 36mm version, but nothing ever happened. Since VSF is by most regarded as the best 41mm DJ, many hopes still envelope this dream. In my opinion, given the price point of the 41mm (>700$ at some TD´s) that´s nothing for me…
Final thoughts:
What I somewhat missed in the research was no discussion on bezel shape and color fidelity as in comparable 41mm threads. I would be grateful if someone could say something about it, at least confirming that if no discussion was made, there also is not a problem.
Finally, I notice that researches would be much more effective if members gave some indications:
- ootb or modding type of person? / type of watch
- Wrist size when posting wristies
Hope you enjoyed and someone found this helpful!
Take care!
Edit 10.01.2023:
There have been some developments since I first posted this with VSF and then clean entering the 36mm race. These two models probably top easily all the above-mentioned.
Some new threads:
VSF New Release DateJust 36mm 126234
Hi guys Got the news from VSF that they are releasing DateJust 126234 now. Same high level as their 126334 DateJust 41mm models with nice crystal, 904L steel and VS3235 clone movement etc. Since I do not have a genuine same model on hand currently this time, so we did not do a proper...
forum.replica-watch.info
NEW: clean factory 36mm Datejust
forum.replica-watch.info
Last edited:
