There are many 'Urban Myths" about gold plated replica watches. I happen to have a taste for the gold versions, both solid and two-tone. It is NOT true that you cannot get a good quality plated watch. You will need to find a dealer that you can trust, and who will tell you what they know about particular watch models that they sell. When you find a dealer who you trust, and he tells you that a watch has good gold plating, you are home free.
The plating process is pretty much understood by everyone (even me).. It is perhaps the "Triple Wrap" process that is not as well understood, so perhaps this might assist in clearing up the folklore. In actual practice, you will rarely, if ever, find true triple wrap in a replica watch. True triple wrap can be polished, buffed, and in general given rough treatment with no fear of failure.
Triple Wrap is an actual process, in which sheets of real gold are formed around and on to base metal parts (stainless steel, for instance) that have been prepared (another topic) for the application. This process results in a very robust and sturdy layering of gold. The main advantage to this process is durability, as gold applied in this manner is thicker than plating. True 'Triple Wrap" is not to be found in replica watches, it is difficult to perform correctly, and it is only used on the band, not the case, of a watch. If you visualize placing even a thing sheet of gold on the areas of the case with tight tolerances where other parts meet (the crystal, for instance) you will readily understand that it is an impossibility. See the next paragraph.
There are certain limitations to triple wrappping: this method cannot be applied to complex shapes, such as the case/lugs, & the bezel. Triple wrap, therefore, is used on the band of a watch, one of the parts that receives the most wear. . A quality manufacturing process will include a heavier gold plating to the case/bezel etc. As regards the crown? The crown can have, in it's construction, actual formed sheet applied. This is the process used by Rolex on their solid gold watches, simply becase the physics involved counter-indicate solid gold for a crown:
Plating: plating is a most acceptable method of applying gold to a watch. However, as noted above, it is only quality when the gold plating is of sufficient thickness to allow for acceptable durability. When one approaches (or surpasses) 10 microns, then durability can approach the decade + mark. 5 microns gives very good service, especially when care is taken (besides avoiding abrasion, cleaning the watch of skin oils and acid after each wear is recommended.
Failure: Triple wrap, by it's very nature and the method of application is rarely if ever prone to failure. On the other hand, plated metal can 'bubble' or 'flake' if either the surface is not properly prepared, or if it is not applied thickly enough.
"Triple Wrap" has become an advertising 'catch phrase', used to sell plated watches of lesser quality (plated to under 5 microns). There is no easy way to determine which method has been used, unfortunately. This CAN be done, but it would require the destruction of a link - not that hard, actually, but few actually do this sort of testing on a purchased watch.
Most dealers advertise "Triple Wrap". However, few dealers will actually explain what that term actually means, to the entire watch. They may be relying on their suppliers description, they simply may not know, or they may feel that their customers do not "need" to know what they are actually buying.
Should one experience failure of lesser quality plating, one can do send a watch out (expensive) or one can "Do It Yourself": http://www.caswellplating.com/index.html
Fire Gilding is yet another process of applying gold to metal:
"Fire Gilding" does a marvelous job in applying gold to metal. This process is outlawed in the 'industrialized nations' because
it is extremely hazardous to the artisans who use this method. The process of 'Fire Gilding' involves using a mortar and pestle
to mix ground gold with mercury.
This gold and mercury combination is then applied to the piece one is gilding, after first heating the piece in an oven. Once coated,
the piece is returned to the oven to finish the process.
This method was in common use until the late 1940's, though it can still be found in Indonesia, India, Pakistan and other parts of the
world.
Unless they are very familiar with the fire gilding process, many jewelers are fooled into thinking that a fire gilded piece is solid gold, though a very knowledgeable jeweler would figure this out, because of the weight.
While this fire gilding gives a depth (thickness) and beauty that rivals solid gold, it is a very dangerous process because of the toxic mercury fumes that are given
off when done.
At the end of the day, with a good dealer who has experience with his stock, and has also a good working relationship with his supplier, one can source a gold plated watch with no fear whatsoever. Remember, when you see the term 'Triple Wrap', you are seeing an advertising slogan, and it is pure hype, not anyhting real.
Life is Good!
Klink
The plating process is pretty much understood by everyone (even me).. It is perhaps the "Triple Wrap" process that is not as well understood, so perhaps this might assist in clearing up the folklore. In actual practice, you will rarely, if ever, find true triple wrap in a replica watch. True triple wrap can be polished, buffed, and in general given rough treatment with no fear of failure.
Triple Wrap is an actual process, in which sheets of real gold are formed around and on to base metal parts (stainless steel, for instance) that have been prepared (another topic) for the application. This process results in a very robust and sturdy layering of gold. The main advantage to this process is durability, as gold applied in this manner is thicker than plating. True 'Triple Wrap" is not to be found in replica watches, it is difficult to perform correctly, and it is only used on the band, not the case, of a watch. If you visualize placing even a thing sheet of gold on the areas of the case with tight tolerances where other parts meet (the crystal, for instance) you will readily understand that it is an impossibility. See the next paragraph.
There are certain limitations to triple wrappping: this method cannot be applied to complex shapes, such as the case/lugs, & the bezel. Triple wrap, therefore, is used on the band of a watch, one of the parts that receives the most wear. . A quality manufacturing process will include a heavier gold plating to the case/bezel etc. As regards the crown? The crown can have, in it's construction, actual formed sheet applied. This is the process used by Rolex on their solid gold watches, simply becase the physics involved counter-indicate solid gold for a crown:
Plating: plating is a most acceptable method of applying gold to a watch. However, as noted above, it is only quality when the gold plating is of sufficient thickness to allow for acceptable durability. When one approaches (or surpasses) 10 microns, then durability can approach the decade + mark. 5 microns gives very good service, especially when care is taken (besides avoiding abrasion, cleaning the watch of skin oils and acid after each wear is recommended.
Failure: Triple wrap, by it's very nature and the method of application is rarely if ever prone to failure. On the other hand, plated metal can 'bubble' or 'flake' if either the surface is not properly prepared, or if it is not applied thickly enough.
"Triple Wrap" has become an advertising 'catch phrase', used to sell plated watches of lesser quality (plated to under 5 microns). There is no easy way to determine which method has been used, unfortunately. This CAN be done, but it would require the destruction of a link - not that hard, actually, but few actually do this sort of testing on a purchased watch.
Most dealers advertise "Triple Wrap". However, few dealers will actually explain what that term actually means, to the entire watch. They may be relying on their suppliers description, they simply may not know, or they may feel that their customers do not "need" to know what they are actually buying.
Should one experience failure of lesser quality plating, one can do send a watch out (expensive) or one can "Do It Yourself": http://www.caswellplating.com/index.html
Fire Gilding is yet another process of applying gold to metal:
"Fire Gilding" does a marvelous job in applying gold to metal. This process is outlawed in the 'industrialized nations' because
it is extremely hazardous to the artisans who use this method. The process of 'Fire Gilding' involves using a mortar and pestle
to mix ground gold with mercury.
This gold and mercury combination is then applied to the piece one is gilding, after first heating the piece in an oven. Once coated,
the piece is returned to the oven to finish the process.
This method was in common use until the late 1940's, though it can still be found in Indonesia, India, Pakistan and other parts of the
world.
Unless they are very familiar with the fire gilding process, many jewelers are fooled into thinking that a fire gilded piece is solid gold, though a very knowledgeable jeweler would figure this out, because of the weight.
While this fire gilding gives a depth (thickness) and beauty that rivals solid gold, it is a very dangerous process because of the toxic mercury fumes that are given
off when done.
At the end of the day, with a good dealer who has experience with his stock, and has also a good working relationship with his supplier, one can source a gold plated watch with no fear whatsoever. Remember, when you see the term 'Triple Wrap', you are seeing an advertising slogan, and it is pure hype, not anyhting real.
Life is Good!
Klink
