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How To Turn a Chinese 15202 into a Jumbo 5402

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    How To Turn a Chinese 15202 into a Jumbo 5402

    Why do many people say that the AP Royal Oak Jumbo is the best luxury sports watch in the world? Because it is. Either in its classic 5402ST or revamped 15202ST version, what we have is an ultra-thin 8.1mm thick design of classic 39mm diameter (the most comfortable size for a Royal Oak, for any wrist), with a classic JLC cal. 920 movement, later bought and taken over by AP as the cal. 2121/2120, a comfortable bracelet originally designed by Gay Frères, and a mesmerizing petit tapisserie dial. Forget that the movement has no seconds hand, and cannot hack, and does not even have a quick date set function except as an awkward rocking between 10pm and 2am whenever the date needs to be set, this watch is made for people like me who prefer the classic designs of the 1970s (any decade that had Led Zeppelin and Gerald Genta at the top of the hit list is fine with me) over the newer, more corporate, larger, less desirable re-vamp models that followed, almost all of which were more bulky.
    Now, after years of begging, one Chinese factory decided, after many years of successfully making one of those bulkier re-issue models (the 15400, now in its 5th version), has decided to give the AP classicists, namely, a proper 15202. (Take a look at the review of the JF 15202 in the AP section for the reigning doxa on it. It is a very well written and detailed review.) Of course, for a person like me who likes to modify things, and make them different, I had to buy one of these JF 15202s for myself in the hopes of one day turning it into a classic 5402ST (Series B as RWI member masterwatch correctly identified). A fortunate turn of circumstances led me in the direction of the parties who had the genuine parts that I would require, and being able to service the 2121 myself (I obtained the AP service literature for the cal. 2121 from AP themselves many years ago, back when they were more friendly towards 3rd party watchmakers), I was able to get a 20-year-old dried-out-but-new NOS 2121 up and running to spec after about 8 hours (LOL), toiling over its exotic escapement jewel caps and ingenious but complex date change mechanism. Now with the ticking heart of the build ready to be installed, it was time to take apart and examine what the Chinese brothers could bring to the mix. A few screws removed, and we started the dissection of the JF 15202, with a log book of measurements, and future machining operations needed. Please be forwarded, these images are not for the eyes of children, parental guidance is necessary for the film that is about to start.

    First, kudos to the Chinese: they repped the entire rotor as best they could. However, since the decorative plate of the rep lacks the four jewels that the rotor travels on, the rep rotor is prone to get stuck. I guess that is one way to solve the problem of the loud fast-spinning Miyota 9015 rotor.

    Now we can look at the decorative plate compared to what is attempting to simulate: got to hand it to the Chinese, they even have a little screw to attach the fake click spring.

    The deco plate is machined from the same metal stock as the movement holder, in one integrated package (fhe first gremlin for the Franken maker now pops its ugly head, see later):

    Look at how thin and elegant those gen hands are by comparison to the replica hands, and how small the hole is in the gen dial for the hand pinions. That is ok for me: I like my watches to be like my women: elegant and thin.

    Last edited by slaughterer62; 01-05-19, 10:51.

    Great writen up! its always a pleasure to read such threads!


    This many people are AP fanboy because we all know that the best one is the Nautilus

    Originally posted by slaughterer62 View Post
    Why do many people say that the AP Royal Oak Jumbo is the best luxury sports watch in the world?
    A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure !


      Is the 15202 dial for sale?

      Last edited by Tigerdragon; 05-05-19, 21:11.


        please keep posting us

        我從使用 Tapatalk 的 SM-N9600 發送


          Another update: a crucial piece of the build is now ready:


            Beautiful Build!
            Subscribed to follow the progress.


              Keep it up man. I watch with great interest