I have several JKF 1680's single red and JKF 1665's double red all with Asian2836 movements purchased from M over the years. I quit wearing my real Rolex. I simply like the look of the smaller diameter and the ability to change out NATO bands. I'm going to give the real thing to my grandson one day.
A couple of the watches have stopped working. I've read quite a bit of the good information found on RWI and my takeaway is to remember that "replica watches are assembled with cheap parts in a back room with no quality control. Some will run for years and some will only run for weeks. It's the nature of the game. If you want a reliable watch buy the real thing!"
When it comes to the A2836 movement the consensus seems to be "its a cheap replica to start with so don't put in a movement that costs more than the watch". That makes a lot of sense and is the reason why I have acquired back ups. However, things are changing with the raids in China, the clamp down in sending money to China and the surveillance by the Chinese resulting in limited email and text leading to the required use of apps like WhatsApp to communicate. I remember what happened to the programming of satellite cards back in the 80"s. Purchasing card programming equipment from Canada and buying updated codes was shut down overnight. First they tried to fry the cloned cards and when that didn't work they went to the Federal Court system with names of customers collected in company raids in Canada or subpoenaed.
All things considered, I want to replace the A2836 movements in case the supply chain of replicas gets interrupted. I've got an email in to Mike, its been a week still waiting for a reply, regarding sending the watches to him to change the movements and do a couple of other mods. I'm sure he will have some suggestions but I thought I would gain a little knowledge on the subject before hand by posting here.
My question is: has anyone switched out the A2836 in a JKF 1680 or 1665 with a Japanese, Swiss or other movement? I'm looking for durability like a Timex movement that "takes a licking and keeps on ticking"! Anyone had experience with this modification?
Thanks for your comments.
A couple of the watches have stopped working. I've read quite a bit of the good information found on RWI and my takeaway is to remember that "replica watches are assembled with cheap parts in a back room with no quality control. Some will run for years and some will only run for weeks. It's the nature of the game. If you want a reliable watch buy the real thing!"
When it comes to the A2836 movement the consensus seems to be "its a cheap replica to start with so don't put in a movement that costs more than the watch". That makes a lot of sense and is the reason why I have acquired back ups. However, things are changing with the raids in China, the clamp down in sending money to China and the surveillance by the Chinese resulting in limited email and text leading to the required use of apps like WhatsApp to communicate. I remember what happened to the programming of satellite cards back in the 80"s. Purchasing card programming equipment from Canada and buying updated codes was shut down overnight. First they tried to fry the cloned cards and when that didn't work they went to the Federal Court system with names of customers collected in company raids in Canada or subpoenaed.
All things considered, I want to replace the A2836 movements in case the supply chain of replicas gets interrupted. I've got an email in to Mike, its been a week still waiting for a reply, regarding sending the watches to him to change the movements and do a couple of other mods. I'm sure he will have some suggestions but I thought I would gain a little knowledge on the subject before hand by posting here.
My question is: has anyone switched out the A2836 in a JKF 1680 or 1665 with a Japanese, Swiss or other movement? I'm looking for durability like a Timex movement that "takes a licking and keeps on ticking"! Anyone had experience with this modification?
Thanks for your comments.
