Not possible with lots of experience.
Be gentle?
Hopefully they used dial dots, which will let go if they are continuously pried on. Use a pair of plastic tweezers, or even plastic picnic knives, to slowly and carefully keep pressure on it (after the hands are safely out of the way of course).
It is best to send to a modder, and let them know the dial is glued. If they used a more aggressive glue (such as super glue) that could be a big problem. The glue has to be melted out, with acetone, which will destroy the top of the dial if the slightest drop gets on it. Then the movement will need to be completely torn down, to ensure all the glue residue is out of the movement after the melting process- because after the acetone evaporates, the glue will re-cure...
I have tried to reset from the train wheels side...with no luck, and broke the yoke
If it's a DJ, then it should have a dial spacer, meaning if it is actually glue and not dial dots, the dial will be glued to the dial spacer, not directly to the movement. Either way, you shouldn't be attempting this if you don't know what you're doing.
i've done it before from the train side but only partial. no full reset is possible from the train side. Only when the crown stem doesnt go in anymore. remove everything from the train side including the sliding pinion and push the keyless part down. It should click back in place and you can rebuild it.
i've done it before from the train side but only partial. no full reset is possible from the train side. Only when the crown stem doesnt go in anymore. remove everything from the train side including the sliding pinion and push the keyless part down. It should click back in place and you can rebuild it.
managed to loose what I think is the click spring when removing the winding module. I’ve got another watch with a 2824. Does anyone know if they share the same click spring??
A 2824 spring will work. I HATE, HATE, HATE, that click spring.
Upon close evaluation of a gen ETA it looks like there is a little lip on the main plate for that spring that helps to hold it in place so it doesn't jump out. I haven't seen a rep with that lip.
I order those suckers two at a time from Clark on the bay. They are only like $4 a piece.
You could just replace the whole winding bridge module from another rep movement. I don't take them apart anymore even on a servicing. Winding bridge, crown wheel, crown wheel screw, and the click and spring get cleaned and re-lubed as an intact module. The rep click springs are too cheap and fiddly to bother with, it's not worth the trouble.