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Rolex 116710 movement removal..

dc2_bb6_cu2

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Hopefully an easy question for the experts here as I’m only mildly acquainted with Seiko modifications.

How do you remove the 3136 movement in a GMT? Crown is out and I can see the two screws that appear to hold the movement in place, but even after loosening them the movement won’t budge.

Thanks in advance!


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PsychoTee16

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Are there notches in the movement holder (Ring just outside the movement)? Sometime you have to spin the movement to these locations (opposite of each other), and then the movement will slide out.

I'm not sure how many Rep movements have this, but i know a lot of gens do.

 

Rx4Time

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Are you working on a genuine, replica or built watch? If you can post some pictures that might also help along with which maker if it's a replica. The genuine after you loosen the movement screws, the movement turns and then can be decased. Replicas can vary depending on which maker and which movement.
 
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KJ2020

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Screw the screws down (clockwise) to lower their height. Then the movement will rotate to the case lip cutouts and can be removed.
 

dc2_bb6_cu2

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Are you working on a genuine, replica or built watch? If you can post some pictures that might also help along with which maker if it's a replica. The genuine after you loosen the movement screws, the movement turns and then can be decased. Replicas can vary depending on which maker and which movement.

This is an ARF 116710, I’d be petrified to crack open my gens lol

Thank you all for the quick comments!


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tsyeo4

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I think alot missed out this. I guess the OP means a 3186 gmt, not a 3136. Usually 3186 should be screw clockwise to lower the screws so you can move the movement until the screw is at the 3 and 9 notch to slide the movement out of the case.
 

KJ2020

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This is an ARF 116710, I’d be petrified to crack open my gens lol

Thank you all for the quick comments!


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ARF 116710 does not have gen-like movement screws with a wide head base to anchor the movement to a case lip. It has tall skinny screws and very short movement tabs that anchor under a case lip. It's possible the movement tabs are stuck on the movement and don't look like a separate part. They are very short and can get jammed in.

So unless your ARF has been modded by someone before you owned it, it should have the pieces shown in the top row of this pic. I had to shave the movement side of the ARF tabs to be able to refit them on a VR movement in an ARF case - this points to the fact that are a very tight fit.

GSLiE.jpg
 

dc2_bb6_cu2

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ARF 116710 does not have gen-like movement screws with a wide head base to anchor the movement to a case lip. It has tall skinny screws and very short movement tabs that anchor under a case lip. It's possible the movement tabs are stuck on the movement and don't look like a separate part. They are very short and can get jammed in.

So unless your ARF has been modded by someone before you owned it, it should have the pieces shown in the top row of this pic. I had to shave the movement side of the ARF tabs to be able to refit them on a VR movement in an ARF case - this points to the fact that are a very tight fit.

GSLiE.jpg

Great info!

Decided I’ll just order a VRF GMT and swap out the insert and clasp. More peace of mind that way. Thanks all.


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Hazing

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@KJ2020

Are you familiar with vrf at all?

When I took the movement out to install the insert, I couldn't quite the the full hang of it and aligning my dial was tough.

Id line it up perfectly but then when I turned the screw, the dial shifted and my rehaut is off just a hair but it's annoying as fuck.

I couldn't get the hang of the movement screws and how they moved (would move and needed to move) when screwing them back in.

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KJ2020

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@KJ2020

Are you familiar with vrf at all?

When I took the movement out to install the insert, I couldn't quite the the full hang of it and aligning my dial was tough.

Id line it up perfectly but then when I turned the screw, the dial shifted and my rehaut is off just a hair but it's annoying as fuck.

I couldn't get the hang of the movement screws and how they moved (would move and needed to move) when screwing them back in.

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The movement screws in the VRF case work like the gen bro. Screw them down tight (clockwise), insert the movement at the case cutouts, rotate it to align with rehaut crown. I know this is where you are already, I just included the whole process for the benefit of others.

So next start unscrewing the screws until they barely touch the case lip where they anchor the movement. Pay close attention to what is happening with the stem. If it is bowing (curving) in one direction when you align the rehaut, it will have a tendency to return to straight which will rotate the movement back to a neutral state. You may not be able to align the rehaut because of this.

Once you get the movement where you want and assuming it will stay there, you can use a sanded blunt end of a toothpick or pegwood to force the movement to remain stationary while you lock the screws to the case lip by unscrewing them til they are solid tight.
 

Hazing

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KJ2020 awesome. Thanks buddy. I’ll work on that when I finish with the current lineup of issues. It’s never ending.
 
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