1030 dial on ETA 2836

[MaxDu]

Hey Guys !

I saw this kind of dials with no feet: http://vintagewatchesmq.com/minhquy...6&keyword=6542&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

Good to put on 1030 / 1035 / 1065 / 1066.

But I wonder how to adapt this dials on an ETA 2836 (GMT mod).

Avoiding any epoxy / dial dot.

Any suggestions ?

Thanks !

 

[Raddave]

Hey Guys !

I saw this kind of dials with no feet: http://vintagewatchesmq.com/minhquy...6&keyword=6542&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

Good to put on 1030 / 1035 / 1065 / 1066.

But I wonder how to adapt this dials on an ETA 2836 (GMT mod).

Avoiding any epoxy / dial dot.

Any suggestions ?

Thanks !

https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...attach-dial-feet-without-an-expensive-machine

 

[MaxDu]

https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...attach-dial-feet-without-an-expensive-machine

Yes I've read that post already, but I've been told that pan dials can be snaped onto movement... Don't know exacly how...

 

[Raddave]

Yes I've read that post already, but I've been told that pan dials can be snaped onto movement... Don't know exacly how...

i think they glue the dialspacer to the dial

 

[Raddave]

tripdog would know better than me

 

[tripdog]

If you're putting one of those dials onto a 2836 movement then you'll need something to hold it in place - dial dots or glue it to the dial spacer ring.

The 2 weren't meant to be together in a watch case, so using dial dots is not some sort of horological sacrilege.

 

[MaxDu]

If you're putting one of those dials onto a 2836 movement then you'll need something to hold it in place - dial dots or glue it to the dial spacer ring.

The 2 weren't meant to be together in a watch case, so using dial dots is not some sort of horological sacrilege.

Got your point ! Do you have some reference to advice for this kind of dial spacer ? Can't find one. Their is the yuki one but im not sure it is exactly what I need. The goal is to fit a A2836 GMT mod into a 6542 case, gen spec, with the pan dial I've spoke about ?


I also have in mind another option: a non "pie" dial, one with feet, 27,3mm, gen spec, so have to cut feet and relocate them, sitll in a 6542 case with 2836GMT/ What kind of dial spacer I then should need ?


Thanks for your advices !

 

[tripdog]

A dial spacer is the metal ring that sits between dial and movement, it creates a space allowing the date wheel to rotate freely, but also ensures the movement sits at the correct height in the case if you have removed the date mechanism.
Most 2836 movements bought new will come with a dial spacer.

A movement ring is something you may need if you are using a movement in a case that was made for a different calibre. I don't know what movement rings Yuki sells, I don't use them. The movement ring needs to have an outer diameter that corresponds with the inner diameter of the case, and it's inner diameter needs to be the same as the movement diameter, so a 26mm inner diameter for an ETA clone, and off the top of my head, something like 28.7 mm outer diameter, I can't remember the exact size of the 6542 cases.

 

[MaxDu]

Yes sure but the thing I don’t get is: if you have a dial with no feet and a pan shape, you have to epoxy it to the dial spacer and then epoxy the dial spacer on the movement ?

or does exist a dial spacer with feet ? This way, I could epoxy the dial on the spacer, and then, just lock the spacer with feet on the movement...

another thing: how do you know the thickness of the dial spacer you need ?

 

[tripdog]

You measure the thickness needed for the dial spacer, you don't need to epoxy things, dial dots can be used, other glues, the dial spacer is just there to separate the dial from the movement.

It's may best if you ask someone else to put this build together for you.

 

[KJ2020]

Yes sure but the thing I don’t get is: if you have a dial with no feet and a pan shape, you have to epoxy it to the dial spacer and then epoxy the dial spacer on the movement ?

or does exist a dial spacer with feet ? This way, I could epoxy the dial on the spacer, and then, just lock the spacer with feet on the movement...

another thing: how do you know the thickness of the dial spacer you need ?

I epoxy new feet onto the dial. You then need to notch the dial spacer where the feet bases are so the dial will fit flush onto the spacer. Dial spacers for ETA movements generally have the same thickness top ledge. That ledge thickness can be reduced by light sanding or increased by the addition of material (plastic, metal, masking tape, etc).

I put the replacement dial feet right into the movement and secure them in place. Put epoxy on them, set the dial. Center the center hole on the canon pinion and the dial notch on the stem. Use a dial protector and put a weight on it to cure.

I make plastic rings for various uses, they can be sanded to desired thicknesses.

 

[bc1221]

I swear, every time I tried to attach new dial feet, they snap off when trying to remove the dial from the movement a few times. I eventually just gave up and used double sided adhesive (basically dial dots) i just use very small pieces in areas a that doesn’t not get in any parts’ way and is thicker than the datewheel so the overlay doesn’t get stuck.

It’s a pain in the ass bc it can be too tall or too short. If it’s too short, you can do the old TC way and put tiny pieces of masking tape on the dial spacer ring. That lifts the dial up about .25mm or so, which is usually enough clearance for the date to jump. If it’s too tall, you can just cut off a small piece of the dial dot from the top.

I don’t know how much space you’ll need for a GMT hand though. Those hands seem to sit very close to the dial so I don’t know how much clearance you’ll need.

Good luck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[KJ2020]

I swear, every time I tried to attach new dial feet, they snap off when trying to remove the dial from the movement a few times. I eventually just gave up and used double sided adhesive (basically dial dots) i just use very small pieces in areas a that doesn’t not get in any parts’ way and is thicker than the datewheel so the overlay doesn’t get stuck.

It’s a pain in the ass bc it can be too tall or too short. If it’s too short, you can do the old TC way and put tiny pieces of masking tape on the dial spacer ring. That lifts the dial up about .25mm or so, which is usually enough clearance for the date to jump. If it’s too tall, you can just cut off a small piece of the dial dot from the top.

I don’t know how much space you’ll need for a GMT hand though. Those hands seem to sit very close to the dial so I don’t know how much clearance you’ll need.

Good luck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had a dial foot or two snap off until I started using JB Weld epoxy. Using a weight on it and waiting a full 24 hours to cure makes the feet quite strong IME. i don't like dial dots. I've always had some play in them, where the dial shifts slightly on the movement with use of the stem. Also they a real PITA to get a dial off later. Having replacement feet on a dial restores its functionality to original and is the optimal solution for me. Obviously soldering the feet on would be better than epoxying but that requires a special skill set I doubt I will ever pursue.

Also something I didn't catch immediately when using epoxy, there's a note on the package that says NOT to clean surfaces with alcohol prior to gluing. This was something I always did after clipping and grinding old feet off. Now I use an alcohol free cleaner.

 

[mslucas]

Hi - That's nice. Do you think I will need something similar to put a Gen 16013 Dial on a ETA 2872 automatic date?

Start by admitting, this is my first amateur watch modification passion project.

I've been looking for watch from my birth year (1982)...Of course, my search had me dreaming about a nice vintage 80's Datejust, but like most without proper planning / saving, that's not in the budget

Until a gen is in the budget, my thought was to build one on a quality genuine Swiss ETA Watch / Case / Hands from that same era?

Details on build materials:

I have a very nice Vintage 1982 Swiss Sandoz ETA 2872 I'll be using. That watch should arrive from German vintage watch dealer soon (already have tracking #s). See Image Below:

Movement:




I just also ordered a 16013 Gold Linen Dial for Rolex 36mm version, with feet in same position below date, and at 11. I believe from initial research this is same feet position as the 2872 I am building on and the 2836 you are working with? Image Below:








Sandoz Movement Data:
11.5''', Dm= 25.6mm, Do= 26.0mm
H= 5.35mm
(dial spacer +0.15mm)
F= 1.6mm
T= 2.2mm
17/21/25 jewels
f = 28800 A/h
power reserve 44h

Stem W3514

Mainspring / battery
1.30 x 10.5 x 0.122 x 400mm

Hands
1.50 x 0.90 x 0.25mm

Anyways, any thoughts you have on what i may have to get so make this work would be helpful!

 

[KJ2020]

I believe from initial research this is same feet position as the 2872 I am building on and the 2836 you are working with?

The ETA 2872 has the same feet positions as the 2836, both of which are different from your gen dial. The gen feet will need to be clipped, grinded/sanded flat and then you go from there with your chosen technique.

 

[KJ2020]

mslucasReally beautiful dial BTW

 

[mslucas]

The ETA 2872 has the same feet positions as the 2836, both of which are different from your gen dial. The gen feet will need to be clipped, grinded/sanded flat and then you go from there with your chosen technique.

Oh, good thing you mentioned...Based on the below research, I was sure that this dial shared the feet position because it was the quickset version. See quoted from other forums.

Link to the by Forum Member lysander from MWR Forum:

https://www.mwrforum.net/forums/showthread.php?6262-Submariner-style-cases-where-to-find

it's 2.50 mm and 11-1/2 l, (the most likely result) you have a little more work to do. Find one of the following movements: ETA 2870, ETA 2872, or ETA 2878 (the ETA 2871, ETA 2873, or ETA 2879 can also be used if you don't mide it operating at 21,600 bph) and then you will have a movement that has the dial feet in the same position as ETA 2824-2/ETA 2892A2, so it accepts all the dials from Mk II, etc, the hand size is the ETA standard of 90/150/25-26, so all the hands will fit, and the stem height is 2.50 mm. Just make sure the original movement was at least 5.50 mm tall (they usually are.)

(Now, don't you go vacuuming up my supply of 2870 series movements off ebay.)

----------------------

More supporting details that were helpful. Raffle dials also as the 28mm rep datejust dials with the feet positioned in same position as the 2836's. I guess I will find out soon enough.

It would be immensely easier to use an ETA 2872 (or 2878). They are drop in replacements for the Miyota, except they use the 28xx dial and hands.

If you need hand post 0.5 mm longer than standard, you will need: (Bestfit #)

Cannon Pinion: 242/ETA 2801 H6 (245/896)
Sweep second wheel: 227/ETA 2801 H6 (227/752)
Hour wheel: 255/ETA 2600 H6 (255/745)

The big problems you will have using a spacer in between the dial and movement will be 1) if you plan on having the date show, 2) keeping the spacer and dial stable with regards to the movement, and the biggest problem 3) keeping the hour wheel engaged in the minute wheel with 0.5 mm space between the dial and top of the hour wheel. On the 2824, the hour wheel is held in place by just a spring bearing on the back of the dial.

 

[KJ2020]

Just look at the feet positions on your dial, and the foot holes on the movement.

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&ETA_2872

ETA foot holes are at ~12 minutes and ~40 minutes

 

[MaxDu]

You measure the thickness needed for the dial spacer, you don't need to epoxy things, dial dots can be used, other glues, the dial spacer is just there to separate the dial from the movement.

It's may best if you ask someone else to put this build together for you.

Yes sure, I measure the thickness, but my question was: how ?

My initial question was: how to proceed with pan dials that I don't know yet ? And where can I source dial spacers and movement spacers with precise dimensions I need ?

Thanks for the advice, im still learning by disasembling/asembling some cheap reps and start slowly to understand every parts, I know the road is long but I'll would love to learn