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To the experts: how to obtain the satin finish? ( brushed as per gen)

mascob1

Active Member
6/11/16
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Hello dear friends.
Sorry if we already talked about, but I really want to know how to brush bracelets and cases " as per gen".
I have buffering wheels ( bufflex fd6) and 600 gr. Wheel, and I use a lathe to turn at 2500 rpm...
the results are correct but not perfect...and that bothers me! I know there are here some very good modders ( @Johnnydeep,@spatiomtemporis...) May be they could explain their technics....May be they're already did it but I do some researches and don't find a lot of informations...Maybe it's me I had'not did my homework correctly...but all informations are welcome!
thanks!
 
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mascob1

Active Member
6/11/16
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after some tests, some correct results...
it seems it's a sensitive subject...except beau7816 nobody want to share his secrets...:)
 

KSwatches

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In my personal opinion as a gen and rep collector, I think the rep finish on ARF/noob reps is more than good enough from factory. In fact a lot better than the finish on most used gen Rollies I come across (most of not all have been polished/brushed by the jewellers in house “watchmaker” and looks far from new from Rolex spec)


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mascob1

Active Member
6/11/16
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Will you now share yours?

No problem. I think that's one of the main reason of this section of RWI.
As I explained I have no pretention, juste want to test and progress....
First, I used a buffering wheel mounted on a lathe, with 2500rpm

the result was correct, but far from what I expected...
I ask to @spatiomtemporis how he was making his brushing.
So he kindly answered and I used some pads to refine the brushing...with patience and that's where I am now...
 

mascob1

Active Member
6/11/16
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In my personal opinion as a gen and rep collector, I think the rep finish on ARF/noob reps is more than good enough from factory. In fact a lot better than the finish on most used gen Rollies I come across (most of not all have been polished/brushed by the jewellers in house “watchmaker” and looks far from new from Rolex spec)


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Totally agree ! Infortunaly I don't have gen Rolex to compare, So I use my noob submariner to compare the brushing I made on my cheapie rep...
 

JDM180

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So what's the secret ??
 

mascob1

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So what's the secret ??

I'M very disappointed...no secret in fact...Just the good tools and especially the good method. ..buffering and polishing is a real profession and it needs time to master....And i'M far away to master, but I try to progress slowly...
 

JDM180

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I'M very disappointed...no secret in fact...Just the good tools and especially the good method. ..buffering and polishing is a real profession and it needs time to master....And i'M far away to master, but I try to progress slowly...

So..what kind of method ? What pads did you use. Os there different grits to use ?

The best advice I found was to use 30 Micron lapping paper on a block, but I'm curious what other ways people have found. It always seems a bit too rough to me.
 

mascob1

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6/11/16
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So..what kind of method ? What pads did you use. Os there different grits to use ?
The best advice I found was to use 30 Micron lapping paper on a block, but I'm curious what other ways people have found. It always seems a bit too rough to me.
It's a secret.......:p
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

Ok, First, I bought on Aliexpress a buffering wheel 600gr AND a "professionnal" buffering wheel on a specialized website. I mounted them on my CNC lathe and turned at 2500 rpm...The very important facts are the density of the wheel and the speed rotation...My first surprise was that the "aliexpress wheel" was better than the "professionnal"...Of course, I buffering the bracelet always in the same way to have parallel lines.
The result was correct but not perfect! There were some imperfections and some "micro scratches" that boring me...
That's why I contacted Spatiumtemporis and he told me he only used abrasive pads to brush his watches...@beau7816 said the same...So after the buffering with the wheel, I took a "scotch britch" pad very fine (....A sponge for the dishes.....) and very sofly, with some soap on the bracelet, brushed in only one direction (no goings and comings)...And finaly for tweaking I used a abrasive block very fine ( Garryson "Garryflex") with a little bit of water.
One last thing: Never use pads clothes to clean the surface during the different operations, juste clean with water under a tap.
When it's finish and rinsed, you can use cloth...
​​​​​​​That's my method...For the moment.
 
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JDM180

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It's a secret.......:p
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

Ok, First, I bought on Aliexpress a buffering wheel 600gr AND a "professionnal" buffering wheel on a specialized website. I mounted them on my CNC lathe and turned at 2500 rpm...The very important facts are the density of the wheel and the speed rotation...My first surprise was that the "aliexpress wheel" was better than the "professionnal"...Of course, I buffering the bracelet always in the same way to have parallel lines.
The result was correct but not perfect! There were some imperfections and some "micro scratches" that boring me...
That's why I contacted Spatiumtemporis and he told me he only used abrasive pads to brush his watches...@beau7816 said the same...So after the buffering with the wheel, I took a "scotch britch" pad very fine (....A sponge for the dishes.....) and very sofly, with some soap on the bracelet, brushed in only one direction (no goings and comings)...And finaly for tweaking I used a abrasive block very fine ( Garryson "Garryflex") with a little bit of water.
One last thing: Never use pads clothes to clean the surface during the different operations, juste clean with water under a tap.
When it's finish and rinsed, you can use cloth...
That's my method...For the moment.

Thanks haha, That's not a mile away from what I used to do. What I find is the genuine have the effect of being polished/smooth and the brushed grain at the same time , whatever is done to replicate it always looks more scuffed up but like that is very close
 

maikols

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sand paper 240 and then 320 .
Glue the paper on a stick and manually go in the same direction.

After 4 or 5 case you will be able to do a good work manually.
 

Oascom

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mascob1

Active Member
6/11/16
291
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I like artifex wheels. 600/400 sand papers, medium bergeon pads, ultrafine 3m pads. It all depends on material that is worked on and how tight is the work.

When you use sanding wheels use circular motion but always keep it at same direction, its going to give you nice uniform lines.

Like here :

https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...ervice-your-new-replica?p=8461422#post8461422

Good luck

I use rubber abrasive blocks. Easy to conform to the shapes of the bracelet, easy to control grain size using different grits.
https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...8455938-refinishing-a-rolex-case-and-bracelet

Many thanks for sharing your knowledge friends! Very helpful! Just in looking for the threads you shown I learned a lot and will perfect my work!
 
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KSwatches

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Totally agree ! Infortunaly I don't have gen Rolex to compare, So I use my noob submariner to compare the brushing I made on my cheapie rep...

He’s my old used gen hulk. Brushing is worse than new ARF. Most used gens being sold by jewellers looks like this.

Brushing lines not perfectly straight and corners over polished: typical for used gens that have been touched up before sale by dealers
98d6a2c4c0a637ccbdcefaa18aa47ca4.plist



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mascob1

Active Member
6/11/16
291
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He’s my old used gen hulk. Brushing is worse than new ARF. Most used gens being sold by jewellers looks like this.

Brushing lines not perfectly straight and corners over polished: typical for used gens that have been touched up before sale by dealers
98d6a2c4c0a637ccbdcefaa18aa47ca4.plist



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Whao...impressive ! The brushing is very worn !
It looks like it was rebrushed...but I suppose not!