- 25/4/18
- 824
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After having serviced 3 genuine vintage Tudor movements, a couple Sellita’s, and numerous Asian clones, I’ve decided to embark on the journey to service a genuine Omega 1120 for a Seamaster.
Received the watch, looks good albeit clearly worn and loved.
I give it a full wind, set the date, set the time, and...nothing. It’s not ticking. Some more winding, some gentle shakes...nothing. I flip it upside down...there it goes. Hmm, this doesn’t bode well. But I’ll reserve judgement until it’s been torn down and cleaned.
On to removing the bracelet, caseback, and dust cover.
Looks pretty clean except the stem is fully rusted and the movement ring is rusted in to place. I hope not to discover anything bad when I get the dial off.
Off comes the automatic works and rotor together since the rotor screws are on the underside of the automatic works.
Now to remove the movement, take off the hands, and dismount the dial. It takes a bit of careful effort but the rusted movement ring releases. Hands are set to be stacked, protective Mylar cover over the dial to protect dial, Saran Wrap over hands to protect finish on hands. I like to use the pry bars in lieu of the hand removing tool, I have more control.
Next I flip the movement back over and remove the balance, gear train c0ck, and barrel bridge.
Back to the top side. Thankfully no further rust or corrosion has presented itself. Off comes the date wheel, calendar works, wheels, pinions, and finish up with the keyless works.
Main plate stripped. Automatic works and barrel bridge stripped down. Everything is neatly organized and ready for a four stage ultrasonic cleaning and rinse. And then it’ll all come back together with a bit of oil.
Since the balance wheel, pinion, and jewels look to be in fine shape I hope the lack of consistent movement is simply grime and age.
Stay tuned.
Received the watch, looks good albeit clearly worn and loved.
I give it a full wind, set the date, set the time, and...nothing. It’s not ticking. Some more winding, some gentle shakes...nothing. I flip it upside down...there it goes. Hmm, this doesn’t bode well. But I’ll reserve judgement until it’s been torn down and cleaned.
On to removing the bracelet, caseback, and dust cover.
Looks pretty clean except the stem is fully rusted and the movement ring is rusted in to place. I hope not to discover anything bad when I get the dial off.
Off comes the automatic works and rotor together since the rotor screws are on the underside of the automatic works.
Now to remove the movement, take off the hands, and dismount the dial. It takes a bit of careful effort but the rusted movement ring releases. Hands are set to be stacked, protective Mylar cover over the dial to protect dial, Saran Wrap over hands to protect finish on hands. I like to use the pry bars in lieu of the hand removing tool, I have more control.
Next I flip the movement back over and remove the balance, gear train c0ck, and barrel bridge.
Back to the top side. Thankfully no further rust or corrosion has presented itself. Off comes the date wheel, calendar works, wheels, pinions, and finish up with the keyless works.
Main plate stripped. Automatic works and barrel bridge stripped down. Everything is neatly organized and ready for a four stage ultrasonic cleaning and rinse. And then it’ll all come back together with a bit of oil.
Since the balance wheel, pinion, and jewels look to be in fine shape I hope the lack of consistent movement is simply grime and age.
Stay tuned.