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16800 COMEX Build

manodeoro

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I've built that watch a few months ago but I never took time to post anything about it so I'll try to do it during the few next weeks.

First I want to specify that it is my very first build.
I joined RWI forum last october (I was searching for technical informations on how to repair an old automatic watch my father-in -aw gave me) and until that I really was no involved in watches.
I read as much posts as I could in every sub-forum, particularly the technical posts and most off the stunning vintage watch modding threads, and decided that I should try to do something by myself.
I first bought some Reps on M2M, tried my skills opening them, releasing the crowns, taking the movements off and putting them back, etc …
And I was « there » until last December when I discussed about my new hobby with my elder son.


WHY A 16800 COMEX BUILD

My eldest son lives in Norway, works on and oil & gas engineering company and is specialized on subsea engineering.

Ul29T.jpg


He dives since about 10 years and is on his way for an open water diving instructor certification.
He came home during 2016 Christmas holidays and we talked about my new hobby, specificaly about divers watches.
And because we are both Frenchies we talked about the COMEX and the diver watches ROLEX provided to that company over the years (Submariners and Seadwellers).
So when he leaved back to Oslo I began to think about buying him a watch, something connected with his birth year, his diving hobby, his work.
I made some research on TDs websites and found some fine COMEX reps, mostly 1680 models.

UlP6A.png


But my son is born in 1984 so I really wanted a 1984 year watch.
Unfortunately I discovered that none of those 1680 « easy build » models would do the job.
After some more search I stumbled on the drsd (double red sea-dweller) website and discovered that the only Submariner model provided to the Comex in 1984 was the 16800.



I came back to TDs website for a long search but … NOTHING
I tried to find a 16800 on M2M sales … still NOTHING
And I discovered that the 16800 Submariner has never been repped.
So I searched the modd threads on RWI and I quickly understood that the 16800 Submariner was not only a very rare and never repped watch but a very difficult one to build.

Of course trying to find a Gen was not a option.
The only watch perfectly metting the specifications (16800 model / 1984 year / Comex branded) was sold at Christie’s Geneva in 2012 … for the « nice» amount of 46,500 USD.

Ul8Cf.png


So I was stuck with a tough choice … give up the project or try something where almost only seasoned modders succeded.
First option was the choice of reason.
But I am not a reasonable guy and I am obstinate/stubborn/mulish/willful … pic the one you prefer.
And that’s all about how I decided to make my first build, and that first build would be a 1984 year 16800 COMEX Submariner.


SEARCHING FOR THE « BASE WATCH »

The 1984 year 16800 Comex Submariner is considered a « transitionnal watch » between the 1680 and the 16610.
Most of the specs are the same as the early 16610 Subs.
Movement :
- cal. 3035
Case :
- Thin case and doomed backcase
- Drilled lugs
- Thin crownguards
- Unengraved rehaut (no « Rolex Rolex Rolex … »)
Bezel :
- unidirectionnal with a clear « click »
- metal insert with a pearl circled with white gold
- pointed 4
Crystal :
- sapphire
Dial :
- glossy
- indexes circled with white gold
- Tritium (SWISS-THands :
- White gold
Bracelet :
- 93150
- 501B endlinks

I knew that the 3035 movement and the «white gold stuff » were not an option because of my low budget.
But everything else seemed … hmmm … doable :hehehe:

The GOOD news was that a 16610 case would do the job.
The BAD news was that it had to have drilled lugs or that I would have to drill them.
About the dial … thanks to the wonderfull threads of , I had a very good idea about how to modd it (COMEX + SWISS - T
So I tried to find a 16610 watch with drilled lugs and thin crwonguards.
There you began to laugh … and you CAN laugh because I did not found anything (except for some very high priced sales).
But, once again, I’m a stubborn.
I decided that a 16610 with thin crowguards would do the job, and that I could try to find a modder that would drill the lugs without charging too much for that.
And I proved to be fortunate.
After some days Sead1999 (supermirrors) showed me some stuff meeting almost every specs for my project :
- BP 16610 with thin crownguards (very close to the 16800’s) and glossy dial with circled indexes
- 92510 bracelet with 580 endlinks
And eveything for 194 USD shipping included.
So I quickly ordered (January 17th) and quickly received (30th January).



COMPARISON – CHECKING THE FLAWS

The first thing I did was to take a pics of my BP16610 in the same position than the Christie’s 16800.

UlSGp.jpg


The result proved to be very encouraging and the Rep watch showed to be very « close » to the model.
Plus the lume was a nice green, although sort of a little too « blueish » (but well … it’s not a tritium dial).

UNZZ6.jpg


Of course there were many flaws that I would have to modd, some easily and some not, but many things were good enough for a low budget build :
Case :
- main shape - OK
- crownguards - not bad
- lugs - BAD because not drilled … a mandatory modd
Bezel :
- monodirectionnal - OK
- 120 clicks - OK
- « flat 4 » insert – « good » according to
Crystal :
- almost OK except for the engraved crown … not very visible
Dial :
- circled indexes … no white gold but hmmm … «low budget»
- Le cadran me semble globalement OK même si pas parfait
- Coronet a little to small … MHO
- « SWISS MADE » in place of « SWISS-T- no « COMEX » » … a mandatory modd
Bracelet :
- 93250 with SELs definitely not good buth the 93150 ordred with the watch would do the job after some work done on it






LET‘S SEE WHAT INSIDE THAT WATCH

After comparing and checking the flaws I quickly opened the watch and disassembled it (not the movement of course)

Sead1999 had told me it came with a 21J so I thought about a DG2813.
But no … DG4813 inside.

UNWIF.jpg



Not the most reliable of the 21J movements, according to the threads I have read, but I’ll keep it and cross my fingers.

UNzOr.jpg


UNyxI.jpg


Now I have uploaded 10 pics so I must put an end to that post.
But I'll be back tomorrow (or the day after) to tell you more about that build.

... TO BE CONTINUED ...
 
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calvin951121

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Watch modding takes time and patient! Waiting for your final work! Good luck!


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manodeoro

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Cant wait to see more
Awesome project


Follow me on Instagram: ciccio_started_it
Thanks [emoji4]
Should be quickly updated cause the build is already done but I have tons of pics to sort and organise before putting then on that thread.

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manodeoro

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DRILLING THE LUGS

I did almost nothing on the case, apart from drilling the lugs and sanding the rehaut.
But you know what ???
Drilling the lugs FROM SCRATCH was the TOUGH PART :hehehe:

I have already posted a tuto about that mod there : https://forum.replica-watch.info/thr...weller.381147/
So I wont detail the process again and just put some pics.

That was the second time I drilled lugs from scratch and the first time that I did that without any help.
I really still have to improve my process but anyway, it does the job.

UFT0R.jpg


UFh5g.jpg


UFjfa.jpg



SAND THE REHAUT

The 16800 COMEX Subs had a flush rehaut so after drilling the lugs I had to sand the engravings.
It's been only a few minutes working with sand paper of different grades.

I started from a fully engraved rehault and just kept the serial number (which is not period correct) everything else being removed

BEFORE

UiMhR.jpg


Uiscg.jpg


AFTER 800 SANDING

Ui2aa.jpg


UiPoy.jpg


AFTER 1200 SANDING

UifWG.jpg


Ui8hq.jpg


AND THE SERIAL NUMBER IS STILL THERE

UiiR6.jpg


UiSm0.jpg



CHAMFER THE LUGS and POLISH

Then I have chamfered the lugs then polished the case sides.

UF40q.jpg


UFmA6.jpg


USy32.jpg


USKMI.jpg


USbCb.jpg


USy32.jpg



CASE BACK MOD

A Submariner is definitely not a COMEX without an engraved caseback. ... so that's what I've done.
I did the design on Photoshop and illustrator.
At first I wanted to do electrolytic engraving but I had the opportunity to have access, for a few hours, to a laser engraver so 've decided to go that way.
And here it is !!!

I had to pick a "diver's number" so I engraved my son's size, in centimeters (and YES he's a tall guy).
The diver's name is, of course, perfectly engraved but I have hiden it on the pic, for confidentiality reasons.

USSGF.jpg


And CASEBACK was the tenth pic so

... TO BE CONTINUED ...
 
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johnlogan

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Holy moly!! You definitely need to let me know next time your in town!!That is one awesome build. Love the case back engravings.
 

manodeoro

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Holy moly!! You definitely need to let me know next time your in town!!That is one awesome build. Love the case back engravings.
Thanks buddy [emoji4]
I won't come in Norway this year but probably next spring to pay a visit to my 2nd grand-child (soon-to-be-born and still don't know if boy or girl [emoji6]).
And YES I will let you know.

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Nivka

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Loving this thread and the backstory. Glued to this thread to see the outcome!
 

manodeoro

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Loving this thread and the backstory. Glued to this thread to see the outcome!
:thanks: @Nivka ... I'll update that as soon as possible
I love to give a background to my threads because, as @TheSociety says "it doesn't just tell time, it tells history", but there may be more ... sometimes watches tell stories :wink:
 
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grilledcheese

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I love these threads. Thank you! Your build looks awesome!


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manodeoro

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I love these threads. Thank you! Your build looks awesome!


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Thank you very much :thanks:
IMHO "awesome" is a little too superlative but as it was my really first build I'm really happy with the result.
 

grilledcheese

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Thank you very much :thanks:
IMHO "awesome" is a little too superlative but as it was my really first build I'm really happy with the result.

You did something no one ever before did so in my eyes it is awesome. :D


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mascob1

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Nothing can stop you!!!!
It's incredible!
+1 with Bart: it's really AWESOME!!
 

manodeoro

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You did something no one ever before did so in my eyes it is awesome. :D


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@tripdog did a much better 16800 than mine and he's been kind enough to give me good advices for that build.
Search "unloved submariner" on the forum and you'll see.

But it really could be the first 16800 Comex build so I thankfully accept the "awesome" you kindly give me.
I've learned the hard way (and did many errors) while building that watch as almost everything little work I did was a "first time try".

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manodeoro

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Let's MOD A DIAL now !!! :evil:

Apart from the work I did on the case, I had to deal with the dial.
Buying an after market one was out of question because all the one I could source where for 1680 watches and none was for a 16800.
Trying to source a Gen dial was of course OOQ too ... just remember the 2012 auction at Christie's for USD45.200.

Fortunately, since the first days I joined RWI, I had been a "serial reader" of threads and specifically the "Decal printed dial" one.
I had spent hours reading every post and other hours training on the decal technics that Bart described.
So, as I already worked easily with Photoshop and Illustrator (that's a part of my "real" work), I decided to start from the BP 16610 dial and mod it.

First job I did was to design a complete 16800 Comex.
After some hours I have been able to print a dial a make a first decal test on a blank copper dial.



Result was so so ... plus I was afraid to ruin the 16610 dial while transgerring a complete decal on it.
So I decided I could keep the existing dial, transfer only a nice COMEX decal and ... live with the "swiss made" instead of a "swiss-T<25".

An my first test was really encouraging ... see the pic below that shows the existing 16610 dial with only a COMEX trasfered on it.



BUT ... there is always a BUT :hehehe:

I found that I couldn't really live with the "swiss made".
So I tried to do another "partial" transfer with only the "swiss-T<25" on the 16610 dial, remove the circled indexes and spray some glossy varnish over the dial so that it could look "not modded".
I DID THAT SIR ... YES I DID !!!
And the result was CATAS ... wait for it ... TROPHIC
No only had I to put some black ink around the "swiss-T<25" transfer to hide the limits and it really didn't work, but the almost perfectly COMEX transfer got moisted by the varnish and take off on one corner.

UgWSg.jpg



UgbQa.jpg


So it was on a dead end way.
Then I had to prove I had balls and stop palying small arms.
As the indexes where already off I took some sand paper and ... sanded everything to get a blanck copper dial (with micro-holes for the indexes)

That definitely was a no way back and surprisingly that made me feel better.
So I took a file and decided to mod the date windows a little and give it chamfers.
Fortunately I stopped before ruining the dial plate.

Ugk3F.jpg


Ug29r.jpg


Then I :
- printed a complete dial on a white decal paper
- protected it with sprayed varnish
- put it on the dial plate
- sprayed 4 coats of glossy varnish on it (letting every coats dry during 24 hours)

... and here again I must thank for his wonderful and educative posts plus direct advices.

So I had that dial without the indexes and I wanted to try how it could look inside the case.

YUMMY !!!
I was really amazed and proud with what I had accomplished and I even said "AWESOME"
:bounce:

UgU6q.jpg


UgBD6.jpg


Now the micro-drilled holes that had received the indexe's feets were blocked by decal paper and varnish so I took a pin and pushed it through them.
The I put the indexes back in place, secured them with some loctite on the backside of the dial and BANG !!!

I had a period correct (1984) 16800 Comex dial :w00t::w00t::w00t:
Of course the indexes were circled with ssteel instead of white gold by THAT ... I would live with.
 
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manodeoro

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and I posted without uploading a pic of the finished dial, and the edit function doesn't work ... so here it is
Far from perfect but altogether a good result for a cmplete beginner :cheese:

Ui1cb.jpg
 
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