16014 36mm Datejust Build Need Advice

[FaberNewBuilder]

Hello there. I’m new and a beginner. I’d really like to get some advice on a build I’m planning. I’m a in the process of putting together a vintage 16014 DJ inspired watch.

So far here's what I'm getting:

Raffles Case (not sure if 2824 or 2836)
Genuine 16014 dial (need to resolder/reposition legs)
Gen Crown
Gen Fluted Bezel
Datewheel Overlay
Gen hands

I was hoping to get the 2824 case since it had drilled thru lugs, but I read that only the 2836 will fit gen parts (gen 603 crown and 162XX bezel)? Is this true?

I've also been reading about hands clearance being a problem if I use a gen one. Should I just get one from raffles to be safe?

What kind of problems can I expect to run into and is there anything else I need? I'm open to suggestions on how to get the most out of this project.

Thanks

 

[Parto]

Get the raffles tall hands if using raffles case, you cant use gen hands with an eta movement. Star time hands are nicer but you need to fit h4 pinions to the movement. If you want gen hands you need a vr3135 movement and a case that will fit it (available for about $350 on ebay).

I've bought a raffles holes case and it will fit a 29.5mm crystal so dont see why gen bezel wouldn't work

 

[heska]

Have you thought about the Korean explorer case ? They are better finished than raffle and are gen spec so you won’t need to butcher your gen dial feet. They are great for 16200 build but more expensive though

 

[FaberNewBuilder]

Have you thought about the Korean explorer case ? They are better finished than raffle and are gen spec so you won’t need to butcher your gen dial feet. They are great for 16200 build but more expensive though

I did think about it, 400 bucks is a tall order. I've only seen one seller tho on ebay. Is it only that one guy selling it? Are gen parts just plug and play with that case?

 

[Drummania]

You need to tap the case to fit gen crown tube and crown.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[heska]

I did think about it, 400 bucks is a tall order. I've only seen one seller tho on ebay. Is it only that one guy selling it? Are gen parts just plug and play with that case?

Yes it is the same guy. It seems that he raised is price a bit. He told me that he wanted to do a launch kickstarter for an homage explorer.
I had no problem fitting gen parts. Gen crown fits tube, gen crystal with 2.3mm gasket also, but stonep (tagging a member don't work on my computer for whatever reason) had a different experience https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...rmarket-rep-16200-datejust-cases-from-s-korea
I assume there may be some slight differences between batches.
I first fitted a VR3135 that had issue unrelated to the case then a VS3135 without any problem.

Here is mine with gen dial/gen crystal/gen crown, "italian" 78360 bracelet



Note that the gap between the crown and the case is a bit big so there maybe some work to do on this. This is a quick build with what i had in my drawer and 'ill change it with something less "fantasy" but i'm quite happy with it at least for the summer

 

[FaberNewBuilder]

Yes it is the same guy. It seems that he raised is price a bit. He told me that he wanted to do a launch kickstarter for an homage explorer.
I had no problem fitting gen parts. Gen crown fits tube, gen crystal with 2.3mm gasket also, but stonep (tagging a member don't work on my computer for whatever reason) had a different experience https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...rmarket-rep-16200-datejust-cases-from-s-korea
I assume there may be some slight differences between batches.
I first fitted a VR3135 that had issue unrelated to the case then a VS3135 without any problem.

Here is mine with gen dial/gen crystal/gen crown, "italian" 78360 bracelet



Note that the gap between the crown and the case is a bit big so there maybe some work to do on this. This is a quick build with what i had in my drawer and 'ill change it with something less "fantasy" but i'm quite happy with it at least for the summer

Thanks so much I appreciate all this information. Once I get all my parts ready I hope you don't mind if I shoot you a message when I get started

 

[heska]

No problem

 

[FaberNewBuilder]

Hi guys, I just wanna thank everyone for all their advice so far. I've decided to course correct and go for a 16234 build instead because I've went with the S.Korean 16200 case.

Here's what we've got so far

Gen Parts:
Gen Silver Dial
16200 Explorer 36mm Case
Gen 24-603-0 SS Crown
62510H B Clasp
Silver Luminous 16014 16234

Rep Parts:
VR3135 Movement
Aftermarket 62510H Jubilee Bracelet

I am still trying to find the right crystal and fluted bezel. I understand that 160XX and the 162xx have a bit of overlap and sourcing the right aftermarket part can be confusing, From what I'm reading the bezel for sapphire have taller/thicker bezels? However a lot of sellers are listing bezels to be cross compatible with 16000. Anyways, appreciate any info if I'm on the right track or what.

 

[ProLex]

Nice project! I‘m going to try sth very similar.

Which jubilee did you choose?

I think I saw a plated WG bezel some weeks ago? The gen ones are ridiculous rare and kind of expensive, but the fake steel ones.. nope..

 

[FaberNewBuilder]

Nice project! I‘m going to try sth very similar.

Which jubilee did you choose?

I think I saw a plated WG bezel some weeks ago? The gen ones are ridiculous rare and kind of expensive, but the fake steel ones.. nope..

I saw this one recommended by someone in the forum. https://watchparts24.de/Steel-Bracel...bracelet-Gents

 

[riderocket]

I am still trying to find the right crystal and fluted bezel. I understand that 160XX and the 162xx have a bit of overlap and sourcing the right aftermarket part can be confusing, From what I'm reading the bezel for sapphire have taller/thicker bezels? However a lot of sellers are listing bezels to be cross compatible with 16000. Anyways, appreciate any info if I'm on the right track or what.

For the record, a comparison between a 16220 and a 16030:

 

[FaberNewBuilder]

For the record, a comparison between a 16220 and a 16030:

Thanks so much this is great help! Did you build these yourself or are they gens?

 

[FaberNewBuilder]

Just some updates if you have a 62510H clasp that you're fitting into an aftermarket bracelet, I don't recommend the ones from wholesaleoutlet. The most you can fit is the first microadjustment. The attachment link is too big to fit a gen clasp if you're considering using the microadjustments. I eventually found an italian jubilee that has better proportions so hope that little bit of info saves you guys some money. Also, finally got all my parts so should be posting some pics soon.

 

[ProLex]

Hey guys,

like FaberNewBuilder I am also on my way to a Franken DJ and gathered all parts to assemble them.

The parts are:

- Korean Case (will be a 162xx build)
- VR3135
- Crystal (aftermarket saphire)
- Gen Tube (NOS)
- Gen Crown (NOS)
- Gen Dial (NOS)
- Gen Hands (NOS)
- Gen Bracelet

I thought to myself (after seeing the parts in front of me): "hey, that cant be that difficult to put them together.."

But is it?

What would you say? Which Youtube-Video should I see and which tool should I buy? Or am I an idiot and better hand the package over to a pro?

 

[FaberNewBuilder]

Hey guys,

like FaberNewBuilder I am also on my way to a Franken DJ and gathered all parts to assemble them.

The parts are:

- Korean Case (will be a 162xx build)
- VR3135
- Crystal (aftermarket saphire)
- Gen Tube (NOS)
- Gen Crown (NOS)
- Gen Dial (NOS)
- Gen Hands (NOS)
- Gen Bracelet

I thought to myself (after seeing the parts in front of me): "hey, that cant be that difficult to put them together.."

But is it?

What would you say? Which Youtube-Video should I see and which tool should I buy? Or am I an idiot and better hand the package over to a pro?

Will send you an update, am just waiting for some tools to come in but should be getting started tomorrow! Don't forget the movement screws. Also, congrats on the gen bracelet! I've been mostly watching DJ 3135 restoration / repair videos just to see how they put the movement in. Also watched some videos on how to cut the stem

 

[ProLex]

Ah, the f**** screws! Right! I need 2 of them, correct?

Do you use gen or aftermarket screws (eBay?)?

 

[FaberNewBuilder]

Ah, the f**** screws! Right! I need 2 of them, correct?

Do you use gen or aftermarket screws (eBay?)?

I ended up getting some pre owned gen ones from eBay just to be sure

 

[FaberNewBuilder]

Just finished today. Thank you everyone who helped and gave their invaluable advice which saved me a ton of money and guesswork! Thank you Heska for the suggestion to go with the korean case. Riderocket's comparison photos, and the measurements stonep gave me which helped find the exact fluted bezel. And to everyone in the forum and all their past documentations of this build.

- Gen Datewheel (Font is crisper than the VR)
- Gen 18k White Gold Bezel
- Gen 3135 Screws
- Gen Vintage Silver dial
- 24-603-0 White Gold Crown (This is the crown that goes with the 162XX series. open to correction)
- Gen Vintage Silver Hands
- Korean 36mm stainless steel watch case
- VR3135
- Gen 62510H B 17 Clasp
- Clark's 25-295C Crystal with 2.3 Gasket (Went with this after I saw a review of it here next to the gen)

Upgrades to come:
- Italian Jubilee Bracelet
- Gen 555B End links

 

[riderocket]

- 24-603-0 White Gold Crown (This is the crown that goes with the 162XX series. open to correction)

24-603-0 should be stainless steel (white gold is 24-603-9 AFAIK)

Beautiful build, wear it in good health!