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IW327010 MARK XVIII V7 maker VS Gen
- Thread starter Repworld
- Start date
I was eyeing it here: https://jtime.io/us/mark-xviii-laur...edition-on-black-nylon-strap-miyota-9015.html
It looks quite nice but haven’t seen any real world photos yet..
So I recently picked up a V7F LPP with the A2892 mvmt. Overall I’d say it is a pretty well built rep, but I had a couple issues with mine after receiving it.
Caseback wasn’t and couldn’t screw down fully due to poorly machined threads on the case and caseback. Discovered this after washing my hands and noticing it fog up a few minutes later. I ended up disassembling the watch and using some tools and a loupe to clean the roughly cut threads and smooth them out. Caseback now screws on smoothly and fully seals. Can confidently wash hands and even shower with it on now. Don’t have a pressure tester tho so no idea what the limit is.
Because of the poorly machined threads, despite my best efforts I continue to find tiny metal flecks just appearing on the dial. I assume this is from both the initial assembly as well as the first 2 times I screwed the caseback on after drying it out. My guess is the flecks are now floating around inside the movement itself (I gave the case a thorough cleaning), which means I have to either get it serviced or try swapping to a gen eta. Haven’t decided what to do here yet…
I’ve also been comparing closely to everyone else’s photos here, as well as gen photos, and I found that my bracelet endlinks were quite poorly made. The fit against the case was uneven and one side was slightly higher than the case. My only option was to grind down the outer portion of the endlink and try to get it below the case. I’ve been partially successful with this after using a combo of stones, sanding and rubber abrasive discs on the rotary, but despite going at it for the better part of 6-7 hours yesterday, my best result is an uneven surface. I’ve determined that I need to flatten out the surface of the outer link with a Swiss file first, then use the stones to refinish the surface. The rubber discs were too aggressive and hard to work with, not to mention despite wearing a KN95 mask I still was blowing out black mucus from my nose a day later. Note to self- check for silicosis in about 10-30 years. Always wear the proper protective equipment friends!
Overall, I really like this watch. But it’s been quite frustrating given the issues I’ve had - I noted the endlinks are the right level of fit for most of everyone else’s photos here, so I may have gotten a bad version and didn’t notice during QC. I also found the outer AR on the crystal is quite fragile and it’s already a fair bit scratched up. If parts were more available I’d consider frankening it and learn how to work with eta movements at the same time.
I might still consider the Laureus editions. In the meantime I’ve order an Artem sailcloth strap to try wearing this on, since I still likely have more work to do on the endlinks. Oh also, like another post earlier I had similar issues with the link release buttons - half of them the buttons were stuck depressed, and I had to do all sorts of finagling to get them to release.
Anyways, a beautiful, gorgeous watch that is turning into a big learning piece for me!
Obligatory shot:
Caseback wasn’t and couldn’t screw down fully due to poorly machined threads on the case and caseback. Discovered this after washing my hands and noticing it fog up a few minutes later. I ended up disassembling the watch and using some tools and a loupe to clean the roughly cut threads and smooth them out. Caseback now screws on smoothly and fully seals. Can confidently wash hands and even shower with it on now. Don’t have a pressure tester tho so no idea what the limit is.
Because of the poorly machined threads, despite my best efforts I continue to find tiny metal flecks just appearing on the dial. I assume this is from both the initial assembly as well as the first 2 times I screwed the caseback on after drying it out. My guess is the flecks are now floating around inside the movement itself (I gave the case a thorough cleaning), which means I have to either get it serviced or try swapping to a gen eta. Haven’t decided what to do here yet…
I’ve also been comparing closely to everyone else’s photos here, as well as gen photos, and I found that my bracelet endlinks were quite poorly made. The fit against the case was uneven and one side was slightly higher than the case. My only option was to grind down the outer portion of the endlink and try to get it below the case. I’ve been partially successful with this after using a combo of stones, sanding and rubber abrasive discs on the rotary, but despite going at it for the better part of 6-7 hours yesterday, my best result is an uneven surface. I’ve determined that I need to flatten out the surface of the outer link with a Swiss file first, then use the stones to refinish the surface. The rubber discs were too aggressive and hard to work with, not to mention despite wearing a KN95 mask I still was blowing out black mucus from my nose a day later. Note to self- check for silicosis in about 10-30 years. Always wear the proper protective equipment friends!
Overall, I really like this watch. But it’s been quite frustrating given the issues I’ve had - I noted the endlinks are the right level of fit for most of everyone else’s photos here, so I may have gotten a bad version and didn’t notice during QC. I also found the outer AR on the crystal is quite fragile and it’s already a fair bit scratched up. If parts were more available I’d consider frankening it and learn how to work with eta movements at the same time.
I might still consider the Laureus editions. In the meantime I’ve order an Artem sailcloth strap to try wearing this on, since I still likely have more work to do on the endlinks. Oh also, like another post earlier I had similar issues with the link release buttons - half of them the buttons were stuck depressed, and I had to do all sorts of finagling to get them to release.
Anyways, a beautiful, gorgeous watch that is turning into a big learning piece for me!
Obligatory shot:
ShiroTenshi
Mythical Poster
- 7/12/11
- 6,782
- 235
- 63
One TD told me this specific rep (Blue dial on SS bracelet) isn’t available from v7 anymore - He might be wrong I don’t know. Going to ask another one
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- 11/2/19
- 285
- 34
- 28
I think you're right. I can't seem to find the V7 on inTime, Jtime, or TrustyTime's website.
ShiroTenshi
Mythical Poster
- 7/12/11
- 6,782
- 235
- 63
- 11/2/19
- 285
- 34
- 28
Petit Prince incoming - QC approved
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Looks great! Which did you get? V7 with Swiss or Asian clone?
Can someone please verify if it really comes with genuine ETA movement?
Thanks
Mine is a V7F - got it on a bracelet which I'm really happy with, however the markers at 6 and 12 are *unbelievably crooked*
it doesn't bother me that much in regular use, but I still wish I could have it fixed.
Hi there!Can someone please verify if it really comes with genuine ETA movement?
Thanks
The Swiss version comes with Sellita movement.
So I recently picked up a V7F LPP with the A2892 mvmt. Overall I’d say it is a pretty well built rep, but I had a couple issues with mine after receiving it.
Caseback wasn’t and couldn’t screw down fully due to poorly machined threads on the case and caseback. Discovered this after washing my hands and noticing it fog up a few minutes later. I ended up disassembling the watch and using some tools and a loupe to clean the roughly cut threads and smooth them out. Caseback now screws on smoothly and fully seals. Can confidently wash hands and even shower with it on now. Don’t have a pressure tester tho so no idea what the limit is.
Because of the poorly machined threads, despite my best efforts I continue to find tiny metal flecks just appearing on the dial. I assume this is from both the initial assembly as well as the first 2 times I screwed the caseback on after drying it out. My guess is the flecks are now floating around inside the movement itself (I gave the case a thorough cleaning), which means I have to either get it serviced or try swapping to a gen eta. Haven’t decided what to do here yet…
I’ve also been comparing closely to everyone else’s photos here, as well as gen photos, and I found that my bracelet endlinks were quite poorly made. The fit against the case was uneven and one side was slightly higher than the case. My only option was to grind down the outer portion of the endlink and try to get it below the case. I’ve been partially successful with this after using a combo of stones, sanding and rubber abrasive discs on the rotary, but despite going at it for the better part of 6-7 hours yesterday, my best result is an uneven surface. I’ve determined that I need to flatten out the surface of the outer link with a Swiss file first, then use the stones to refinish the surface. The rubber discs were too aggressive and hard to work with, not to mention despite wearing a KN95 mask I still was blowing out black mucus from my nose a day later. Note to self- check for silicosis in about 10-30 years. Always wear the proper protective equipment friends!
Overall, I really like this watch. But it’s been quite frustrating given the issues I’ve had - I noted the endlinks are the right level of fit for most of everyone else’s photos here, so I may have gotten a bad version and didn’t notice during QC. I also found the outer AR on the crystal is quite fragile and it’s already a fair bit scratched up. If parts were more available I’d consider frankening it and learn how to work with eta movements at the same time.
I might still consider the Laureus editions. In the meantime I’ve order an Artem sailcloth strap to try wearing this on, since I still likely have more work to do on the endlinks. Oh also, like another post earlier I had similar issues with the link release buttons - half of them the buttons were stuck depressed, and I had to do all sorts of finagling to get them to release.
Anyways, a beautiful, gorgeouI am having the same issue with regards to water getting inside. Could I ask how to best open this caseback? Are there special tools required given the notches/grooves inside it? Thanks
I am having the same issue with regards to water getting inside. Could I ask how to best open this caseback? Are there special tools required given the notches/grooves inside it? ThanksSo I recently picked up a V7F LPP with the A2892 mvmt. Overall I’d say it is a pretty well built rep, but I had a couple issues with mine after receiving it.
Caseback wasn’t and couldn’t screw down fully due to poorly machined threads on the case and caseback. Discovered this after washing my hands and noticing it fog up a few minutes later. I ended up disassembling the watch and using some tools and a loupe to clean the roughly cut threads and smooth them out. Caseback now screws on smoothly and fully seals. Can confidently wash hands and even shower with it on now. Don’t have a pressure tester tho so no idea what the limit is.
Because of the poorly machined threads, despite my best efforts I continue to find tiny metal flecks just appearing on the dial. I assume this is from both the initial assembly as well as the first 2 times I screwed the caseback on after drying it out. My guess is the flecks are now floating around inside the movement itself (I gave the case a thorough cleaning), which means I have to either get it serviced or try swapping to a gen eta. Haven’t decided what to do here yet…
I’ve also been comparing closely to everyone else’s photos here, as well as gen photos, and I found that my bracelet endlinks were quite poorly made. The fit against the case was uneven and one side was slightly higher than the case. My only option was to grind down the outer portion of the endlink and try to get it below the case. I’ve been partially successful with this after using a combo of stones, sanding and rubber abrasive discs on the rotary, but despite going at it for the better part of 6-7 hours yesterday, my best result is an uneven surface. I’ve determined that I need to flatten out the surface of the outer link with a Swiss file first, then use the stones to refinish the surface. The rubber discs were too aggressive and hard to work with, not to mention despite wearing a KN95 mask I still was blowing out black mucus from my nose a day later. Note to self- check for silicosis in about 10-30 years. Always wear the proper protective equipment friends!
Overall, I really like this watch. But it’s been quite frustrating given the issues I’ve had - I noted the endlinks are the right level of fit for most of everyone else’s photos here, so I may have gotten a bad version and didn’t notice during QC. I also found the outer AR on the crystal is quite fragile and it’s already a fair bit scratched up. If parts were more available I’d consider frankening it and learn how to work with eta movements at the same time.
I might still consider the Laureus editions. In the meantime I’ve order an Artem sailcloth strap to try wearing this on, since I still likely have more work to do on the endlinks. Oh also, like another post earlier I had similar issues with the link release buttons - half of them the buttons were stuck depressed, and I had to do all sorts of finagling to get them to release.
Anyways, a beautiful, gorgeous watch that is turning into a big learning piece for me!
Obligatory shot:
apologies for butchering the thread with the multiple quotes, I cannot seem to edit my previous post