3135 Clone, A2836, Swiss ETA or Miyota 9015????

[Oakley]

Hello everyone, I'd like to introduce myself and appreciate in advance any expert advice that can be obtained from the plethora of knowledge and experience abundant here. I am interested in purchasing a SS Sub and the more i read the more confused things seem to get. With so many different "Factories" producing these watches, the different movements, not to mention a selection of TD's
This is my story...... I used to own a Gen Sub 116610LN but had to sell it due to unforeseen financial problems. So now I would like to buy something my budget allows. I'm not interested in modding or franken, just something out the box that looks and feels as close as possible to the Gen and above all with a reliable movement. I found some BP Subs with Swiss ETA 2836-2 movements and thought they would be the safest choice. However I have since read here that the Swiss movements in reps are refurbished and probably have cloned parts anyway. Then I read that the 3135 clone should be serviced immediately and if it breaks down it would have to be replaced as no parts are available. So that leaves the A2836 or the Miyota 9015 movement. More reading revealed that the Miyota 9015 is very reliable but has a loud rotor. I would love to hear some views considering following:

1. Which movement would you recommend for reliability and ease of repair if problems occur?
2. Which factory (Noob, ARF, Nail, BP, ZZF etc etc etc) would you recommend for overall 1:1 best rating?
3. Any recommendations which TD?

Thank you all in advance for any input that could help.

Regards
Allan

 

[M_Hall]

Welcome to the forum.

Looks like you’ve done your homework on the movements.

A2836 is a solid movement and if it does break its easy and cheap to fix or replace.

The only benefits to the clone movements is the setting of the hands matches the genuine. So by turning the crown clockwise the hands move in a clockwise direction.

Also the position of the crown is the correct height in relation to the case, on the a2836 it sits a little lower.

I wouldn’t get a Miyota in a Sub no real benefit, Miyota 9015 is a slim movement so is used a lot in watches with slim case profiles.

The TD you use is easy as they all sell the same watches at very similar prices. They are all good otherwise they wouldn’t be on the trusted list here. I’ve purchased through Supermirrors for the last few years. He’s honest and ships fast, communication can be a little brief at times.

The factory you pick depends, they are all flawed.

Noob and ARF have the best reputation.

ZF are relatively new but appear to be fairly good too.

As a previous gen owner your in a good position to look at the pictures and choose the one you like the look of most, they are very similar in quality.

My advise is don’t over think it, limit your expectations and jump straight in.

If you’re not happy someone here will buy it off you.



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[Percymon]

A2836 for reliability. If you have a competent watchsmith locally who can service/repair a SH3135 (not the SA3135) then thats always an option but factor that into your decision / cost predictions

ARF and Noob both have good reps out of the box - highly rated, but not without flaws - either factory are good enough to satisfy most buyers, so if you don;t want to procrastinate then go with either of those two.

 

[Oakley]

Thank you for the above welcome and sound advice which is appreciated. In reality, on the one hand the sensible thing to do is purchase a Steinhart Ocean One 39MM for 395 euros and have the peace of mind of a Genuine Swiss ETA 2824-2 élaboré movement, 30 ATM water resistance, 2 year guarantee, no risk purchase..............or on the other hand throw caution to the wind, put yourself into the lap of the Gods and hope that your Rolex Submariner Replica wasn't made by the factory on the last Friday before the summer holidays by someone having a bad day. The things we do to inflate our ego's.......

 

[Rx4Time]

2836, common parts, easily replaced with ETA or SW 220 if fails, the best option for a non franken piece.

9015, reliable, not as accurate for time keeping, loud rotor. I'd personally pass on this movement.

3135... several variations. SA, SH VRF. SA is not repairabile if it fails, only option is to swap it out for a SH. SH is decent, but has issues with the autowind and date change in some models. Most parts are interchangeable with genuine so it's repairable, but more costly then the 2836. VRF is similar to the SH in repairability and doesn't appear to have the autowind and date issues.

In general, it's best to avoid the superclone movements.

 

[dubhdubhdubh]

I also appreciate this info y'all, wondering similar myself. Good info to see more of!

 

[AlphaProt]

I went with ARF sub with 2824 movement.
Swapped that out and drop in gen ETA 2824.

Will last for years...


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[pauwus]

Great thread for a noob like myself, thank you all for comments. So am I right in thinking it's not worth paying the extra for a super clone movement due to poor reliability and inability to fix? I was very tempted on the Noob V9 with SA3135. Purely based on movement reliability/repairability, it seems like it's a better choice to go for an ARF with the SH3135V2?

I've been considering ordering from BK who installs a ETA 2836-2 but it's the more costly option with a much longer wait.

 

[AlphaProt]

Great thread for a noob like myself, thank you all for comments. So am I right in thinking it's not worth paying the extra for a super clone movement due to poor reliability and inability to fix? I was very tempted on the Noob V9 with SA3135. Purely based on movement reliability/repairability, it seems like it's a better choice to go for an ARF with the SH3135V2?

I've been considering ordering from BK who installs a ETA 2836-2 but it's the more costly option with a much longer wait.

I just got my franken sub back and my watchsmith said he installed ETA 2836-2 just like BK did.

Holy shit. It’s worth it.. im telling you!


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[ticktocker]

I thought noob have started using the SH in the subs?


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[Rx4Time]

I thought noob have started using the SH in the subs?


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No. They use SA. There's less parts compatibility with genuine vs the SH and VRF. Regardless, best option is to get the A2836 and have a watchsmith swap in a new fresh ETA unless you want to do a franken piece.

 

[promper39]

Hi, very good lecture about movements
Do you know what's the movement of this watch?
https://puretimewatch.io/aqua-terra...t-a8507-super-clone-v2-free-nylon-strap.html#
It shows this:
"VSF custom made 1:1 super replica omega 8507 movement, almost same as genuine 8570 movement"

1. What does it means? Is it a custom movement?
2. What happened if the movement broke, could I change it?
3. The TD could change the movement for another one?

Best Regards

 

[gilrob]

Hi, very good lecture about movements
Do you know what's the movement of this watch?
https://puretimewatch.io/aqua-terra...t-a8507-super-clone-v2-free-nylon-strap.html#
It shows this:
"VSF custom made 1:1 super replica omega 8507 movement, almost same as genuine 8570 movement"

1. What does it means? Is it a custom movement?
2. What happened if the movement broke, could I change it?
3. The TD could change the movement for another one?

Best Regards

Ask your questions in the Omega sub-forum and you'll get more answer there.

 

[Rx4Time]

Hi, very good lecture about movements
Do you know what's the movement of this watch?
https://puretimewatch.io/aqua-terra-...on-strap.html#
It shows this:
"VSF custom made 1:1 super replica omega 8507 movement, almost same as genuine 8570 movement"

1. What does it means? Is it a custom movement?
2. What happened if the movement broke, could I change it?
3. The TD could change the movement for another one?

Best Regards

A custom, read, non standard, movement. not close to the Omega coaxial movement beyond general appearance. I avoid those and the Panerai superclone movements as they are not repairable (no parts available) if they break since they are not true clone movements like the SH and VRF.

 

[djbboi]

No. They use SA. There's less parts compatibility with genuine vs the SH and VRF. Regardless, best option is to get the A2836 and have a watchsmith swap in a new fresh ETA unless you want to do a franken piece.

Is there a list of which gen parts are compatible with the SA3135 and SH3135?

 

[Rx4Time]

Is there a list of which gen parts are compatible with the SA3135 and SH3135?

https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/the-3135-3131

 

[djbboi]

Thank you! Much appreciated