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New member seeking help understanding quality expectations

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    New member seeking help understanding quality expectations

    So as the title of the post states, I am a newly registered member here to RWI. I've been reading lots of posts and articles here and elsewhere to familiarize myself with the replica watch industry. I have learned a lot, but have much to learn. I only own about 6 watches (non-replicas) so my understanding of quality and what to expect is limited so I was hoping to relate what I already own to what sort of quality one would expect (which I do understanding varies greatly.) 2 of those are automatics, which I gravitate to and seemingly enjoy more than the others, though I couldn't really explain why. One is a Seiko 5 (a gift) and the other is an Invicta Diver ($50-$60). I see an overwhelming consensus to stay away from places like DHgate, and I take no issue with paying in upwards of $300 for watches that would not otherwise be financially feasible. For a starting reference point though, I would like to use DHgate as an example. I see many watches on there in the $30-60 price range. Is their quality on par with an Invicta, or would one be far better off buying an Invicta or Casio if $60 was the budget? Basically I am trying to understand if the quality of watches on DHgate will literally fall apart after a few months time (I've heard some stories that seem to point to this), or is it more than the RWI community holds build quality to a much higher standard than would a layman such as myself who does enjoy his Invicta and Seiko. I have probably a hand full of watches I am willing to pay in the $300 range, but eager to understand quality and expectations. If the $60 watches are simply Invictas or Fossils with a different skin, then I wouldn't mind all that much having a couple of those for watches that I like, but ultimately don't really need. Like a Milgauss.. I like the design, but wouldn't put that on my list of must-haves, therefore would be unlikely i'd pay $300 for one.

    My second question is just an inquiry about obtaining a replica. The process is overwhelming to say the least, but definitely willing to do anything I need to. Now this may not be a very smart question (heck maybe the first isn't either), but are there any sort of trusted RWI members that would assist in finding the right watch and right dealer, even if for a fee? If not, I don't mind doing it all on my own, but to be able to simplify the process for myself I figured it worth asking.

    Thanks for all the great articles and posts that really attempt to tackle those of us that are far less informed.

    Jeremiah

    #2
    If you are going to spend $60 on a watch, then buy a branded one - Seiko, Invicta etc. DHGate watches have no quality control at the factory, are quite likely to give you problems in terms of reliability, and obviously you have no guarantee/warranty. A $60 watch from DHGate or any similar site should be seen as a toy, something you can throw away without worrying about the money.

    The buying process from TDs can seem a little complicated, but there are stickies explaining the process. I suggest you decide how much you want to spend first - about $150 - $175 is about the right amount to spend on your first rep.
    Next decide on the type of watch you want - dress watch, diver etc - in this price bracket stay away from gold plated watches, chronos, models with complications etc.
    After that go to one of the TDs that has a web site and just look at what's on offer in the price range and model type you are looking for.
    Check out the feed back on the various TDs - some are small set ups, some are much larger, choose one you like the look of. Send an email (not a PM) to the TD, asking if the model you want is available, he will explain the buying process from there on.
    Vintage Rolex Builds: http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/tripdog/library/

    Comment


      #3
      Done deal on DHgate thank you. I always wondered and that clears up any question I had on that.

      As for the buying process, honestly your reply here has been the most concise I've read so thank you very much for keeping it simple for me. Though I obviously need to do a little more research since I didn't know it was possible to get a decent replica for $150-175. Are there any particularly good places to start in that price range or do I just need to sift through more? Do you have any watch or brand recommendations for that price range? While it's intimidating, I could browse these rep sites all day.. it's a blast! Most of the dealers sites I have visited are more in the $300-$450 range it seems, though. Maybe that's just what is has been the case for my search for the Tag Heuer Carrera 1887 SpaceX. That'd be at the top of my list for any watch and of course I have others I've been searching for. There's a couple Rolexes, IWCs, Omegas, and a few others that are on my list. Thank you again for your noob-friendly knowledge.
      Last edited by JayRooster; 13-03-18, 14:43.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by JayRooster View Post
        Done deal on DHgate thank you. I always wondered and that clears up any question I had on that.

        As for the buying process, honestly your reply here has been the most concise I've read so thank you very much for keeping it simple for me. Though I obviously need to do a little more research since I didn't know it was possible to get a decent replica for $150-175. Are there any particularly good places to start in that price range or do I just need to sift through more? Do you have any watch or brand recommendations for that price range? While it's intimidating, I could browse these rep sites all day.. it's a blast! Most of the dealers sites I have visited are more in the $300-$450 range it seems, though. Maybe that's just what is has been the case for my search for the Tag Heuer Carrera 1887 SpaceX. That'd be at the top of my list for any watch and of course I have others I've been searching for. There's a couple Rolexes, IWCs, Omegas, and a few others that are on my list. Thank you again for your noob-friendly knowledge.

        In case you haven't found it, this is the TD section:

        https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/trusted-dealers

        Sead at Supermirrors has very good prices, but his communication is a little slow, and you really need to know what you want as his website is crap.

        https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/supermirrors

        Toro Bravos is a little easier to deal with, has a slighter better/speedier set up, and has a fairly good website:

        https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/toro-bravo

        Website:

        http://www.toro.fun/

        He also has a special offer section with some good deals as long as you aren't obsessed with getting the latest version:

        http://www.toro.fun/index.php?route=product/special

        Remember, always send an email asking if the TD is still able to get the watch - don't ask about stock etc, it means nothing, they don't carry stock.

        Vintage Rolex Builds: http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/tripdog/library/

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks very much tripdog! I have been browsing the TD section for a bit. Looked a lot on InTime and some on a couple others. Checking out the links you sent me there. Thank you very much man!

          Comment


            #6
            A lot of the watches on the trusted dealer sites are not always in stock. You need to contact them on the particular watch you are interested in to make sure they have it.
            I'd rather be skiing!

            Comment


              #7
              Good luck
              I’ve said it before it’s a leap of faith you take first time round, but once taken you won’t look back.
              Provided you choose a TD.


              Sent from my iPhone using RWI

              Comment


                #8
                Took my first leap with an Explorer II Noob V2 through Hontwatch and I couldn't be happier!

                Comment


                  #9
                  I was gong to suggest emailing one of the trusted dealers directly and letting them know what your after.
                  I've had two really positive experiences with Trustytime168.
                  Glad to hear you are happy with your choice. Enjoy !


                  Sent from my iPhone using RWI

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by JayRooster View Post
                    So as the title of the post states, I am a newly registered member here to RWI. I've been reading lots of posts and articles here and elsewhere to familiarize myself with the replica watch industry. I have learned a lot, but have much to learn. I only own about 6 watches (non-replicas) so my understanding of quality and what to expect is limited so I was hoping to relate what I already own to what sort of quality one would expect (which I do understanding varies greatly.) 2 of those are automatics, which I gravitate to and seemingly enjoy more than the others, though I couldn't really explain why. One is a Seiko 5 (a gift) and the other is an Invicta Diver ($50-$60). I see an overwhelming consensus to stay away from places like DHgate, and I take no issue with paying in upwards of $300 for watches that would not otherwise be financially feasible. For a starting reference point though, I would like to use DHgate as an example. I see many watches on there in the $30-60 price range. Is their quality on par with an Invicta, or would one be far better off buying an Invicta or Casio if $60 was the budget? Basically I am trying to understand if the quality of watches on DHgate will literally fall apart after a few months time (I've heard some stories that seem to point to this), or is it more than the RWI community holds build quality to a much higher standard than would a layman such as myself who does enjoy his Invicta and Seiko. I have probably a hand full of watches I am willing to pay in the $300 range, but eager to understand quality and expectations. If the $60 watches are simply Invictas or Fossils with a different skin, then I wouldn't mind all that much having a couple of those for watches that I like, but ultimately don't really need. Like a Milgauss.. I like the design, but wouldn't put that on my list of must-haves, therefore would be unlikely i'd pay $300 for one.

                    My second question is just an inquiry about obtaining a replica. The process is overwhelming to say the least, but definitely willing to do anything I need to. Now this may not be a very smart question (heck maybe the first isn't either), but are there any sort of trusted RWI members that would assist in finding the right watch and right dealer, even if for a fee? If not, I don't mind doing it all on my own, but to be able to simplify the process for myself I figured it worth asking.

                    Thanks for all the great articles and posts that really attempt to tackle those of us that are far less informed.

                    Jeremiah
                    I had a terrible experiance buying from DHGate. The watch I received wasn't as described or working. I sent it back to china at huge cost by one of the DHGate's approved couriers. It was intercepted at chinese customs and had a huge $200 import duty slapped on it (3 times more than it cost) which the maufacturer (naturally) refused to pay to get it out of customs. I couldn't get it back as once in china it's technically the property of the addressee. DHGate refused to refund my money despite a 'guarantee' on their site to do so. They argued that as the manufacturer and I had both 'lost something' this was a fair outcome of their mediation. Needless to say DHGate lost nothing. My advice is AVOID DHGate AT ALL COSTS - no matter how good the bargain looks.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by tripdog


                      In case you haven't found it, this is the TD section:

                      https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/trusted-dealers

                      Sead at Supermirrors has very good prices, but his communication is a little slow, and you really need to know what you want as his website is crap.

                      https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/supermirrors

                      Toro Bravos is a little easier to deal with, has a slighter better/speedier set up, and has a fairly good website:

                      https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/toro-bravo

                      Website:

                      http://www.toro.fun/

                      He also has a special offer section with some good deals as long as you aren't obsessed with getting the latest version:

                      http://www.toro.fun/index.php?route=product/special

                      Remember, always send an email asking if the TD is still able to get the watch - don't ask about stock etc, it means nothing, they don't carry stock.
                      This is very helpful as a fellow noob. Can you suggest some threads to understand the terminology used in a lot of these forums? For instance, what to know when it comes to terms like 23j, 1:1, V6, NOOB, JF, A3186? Possibly more...


                      Sent from the RWI App

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Movements View Post

                        This is very helpful as a fellow noob. Can you suggest some threads to understand the terminology used in a lot of these forums? For instance, what to know when it comes to terms like 23j, 1:1, V6, NOOB, JF, A3186? Possibly more...


                        Sent from the RWI App
                        There was a thread with a list of abbreviateions, can't find it now. Here's a few:

                        CG= Crown Guard

                        PO= Planet Ocean (Omega)

                        Rep= Replica

                        Gen= Genuine

                        AR= Anti-Reflective coating

                        DSSD= Deep Sea Sea Dweller (Rolex)

                        DW= Datewheel

                        Noob= New Guy

                        AP= Audemars Piguet

                        ROO= Royal Oak Offshore (AP)

                        UN=Ulysse Nardin

                        PAM= Panerai Model

                        B&R= Bell & Ross

                        Rolex PN= Rolex Daytona Paul Newman

                        Noob = factory - anything that's just letters is usually a factory - JF, ARF etc - all factories.

                        1:1 is supposed to mean an exact copy of the genuine watch - this is virtually impossible, it's just marketing hype - 1:1 doesn't exist.

                        21J, 23J = the number of jewels in a watch movement - the number has no direct bearing on the quality of the movement, even though 21j, for example is used to denote a cheaper watch movement.

                        A2836, A2824 SA3135 - These are movements. A = Asian, meaning a clone movement, the numbers are the movement calibre, so the A2836 is a clone/copy of the Swiss ETA 2836 movement.
                        Vintage Rolex Builds: http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/tripdog/library/

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by tripdog View Post

                          There was a thread with a list of abbreviateions, can't find it now. Here's a few:

                          CG= Crown Guard

                          PO= Planet Ocean (Omega)

                          Rep= Replica

                          Gen= Genuine

                          AR= Anti-Reflective coating

                          DSSD= Deep Sea Sea Dweller (Rolex)

                          DW= Datewheel

                          Noob= New Guy

                          AP= Audemars Piguet

                          ROO= Royal Oak Offshore (AP)

                          UN=Ulysse Nardin

                          PAM= Panerai Model

                          B&R= Bell & Ross

                          Rolex PN= Rolex Daytona Paul Newman

                          Noob = factory - anything that's just letters is usually a factory - JF, ARF etc - all factories.

                          1:1 is supposed to mean an exact copy of the genuine watch - this is virtually impossible, it's just marketing hype - 1:1 doesn't exist.

                          21J, 23J = the number of jewels in a watch movement - the number has no direct bearing on the quality of the movement, even though 21j, for example is used to denote a cheaper watch movement.

                          A2836, A2824 SA3135 - These are movements. A = Asian, meaning a clone movement, the numbers are the movement calibre, so the A2836 is a clone/copy of the Swiss ETA 2836 movement.
                          Don't forget DWO = Date Wheel Overlay

                          This one always tripped me up when I was a Noob, no pun intended lol
                          "People don't care about your watch, so wear what makes you happy!!!" -RWI Proverb# 7

                          https://picr.me/ralphy1975

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Ralphy1975 View Post

                            Don't forget DWO = Date Wheel Overlay

                            This one always tripped me up when I was a Noob, no pun intended lol
                            Indeed. There was a thread somewhere with most abbreviations . . . can't find it now.
                            Vintage Rolex Builds: http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/tripdog/library/

                            Comment


                              #15
                              This one?
                              https://forum.replica-watch.info/for...-abbreviations

                              Comment

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