AP Build - 5402 C Series Black dial

[majwilliams0308]

So I've been on the hunt for a fun gen AP dial build, but I can't find a dial for a reasonable price in the smaller references (15450, etc), so I recently bid on a 5402 C series dial and got it for a nice sum.

Here are the gen references:

Here are pics of the dial:

And here is a pic of the date disc:

The dial and date disc are still en route - what case should I use? I am considering getting one of the quartz reps and going that route - it seems to be the best option. I don't mind it not being automatic due to the closed case back - thinness would be better for my tastes I think.

 

[MasterWatch]

Awesome Project!

Cal 2121 movement and gen hands will mae this an amazing build.

For case you should do a hybrid JF and Quartz.
Jf has a better Bezel and mid case and the case back from the quartz.

Goodluck. Looking forward to seeing it completed.

 

[HWatch]

Following this! Sounds awesome!


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[BIONONE]

For case you should do a hybrid JF and Quartz.
Jf has a better Bezel and mid case and the case back from the quartz.

This.

Gen calibre and gen hands would add a tremendous amount of money to that fun build... If you are abled to find the bespoken parts separately without killing a whole vintage gen watch.

Nice catch by the way - i was also bidding on this dial hehe

majwilliams0308 Looking forward to your build! Congrats!

 

[HWatch]

This.

Gen calibre and gen hands would add a tremendous amount of money to that fun build... If you are abled to find the bespoken parts separately without killing a whole vintage gen watch.

Nice catch by the way - i was also bidding on this dial hehe

majwilliams0308 Looking forward to your build! Congrats!

May one ask where this bidding is taking Place?


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[majwilliams0308]

This.

Gen calibre and gen hands would add a tremendous amount of money to that fun build... If you are abled to find the bespoken parts separately without killing a whole vintage gen watch.

Nice catch by the way - i was also bidding on this dial hehe

majwilliams0308 Looking forward to your build! Congrats!

Oh dang that was you?! Dang man, we have SUPER similar tastes and ideas lol. You're my spirit watch brother. However I may go the replica route on movement and hands though - I don’t have the stomach or desire to shell out that much for gen things like that haha. I think yodog will do the aging just right.

hmansson it was on eBay. You just gotta stay vigilant and every once in awhile you see some crazy things. There is currently a gen Tiffany Aquanaut dial for $25,000, also a few other really cool finds.

 

[BIONONE]

Oh dang that was you?! Dang man, we have SUPER similar tastes and ideas lol. You're my spirit watch brother. However I may go the replica route on movement and hands though - I don’t have the stomach or desire to shell out that much for gen things like that haha. I think yodog will do the aging just right.

Well - who could resist a deal like this?

From my point of view you saved a lot on this dial and as it is the key part of this particular model i think you can easily dispense with the gen movement... I rarely came across one sold separately in an auction and when there is an offer up on the bay it goes for well up over 3.000,- (well it is worth the money but keeping in mind that there were sales for a single 2121, 1121 etc. back then at 750,- bucks... it hurts a bit haha)

Do you plan to use the gen DW as an overlay? Will you modify the hands base a bit to achieve the correct pyramid-effect?

Anyway - this project will be fantastic!

 

[rxc330]

Awesome, I love that RO model.

 

[majwilliams0308]

It came in yesterday! It measures 28.5mm, and the dial opening of the DC Factory 15202 is ~30mm. Can anyone with a JF 15202 measure the crystal size/dial size for me?

The tapisserie is beautiful up close, as is the natural patina.

 

[BIONONE]

The DC 15202 is known for its wrong bezel shape. That results in a bigger inner diameter of the bezel and that in a bigger dial diameter. JF's model fixed this issue obviously by applying the right bezel shape/specs.

I think the inner polished rehaut can also play a role - the gen got a slightly angled rehaut AFAIK.

Wouldn't be a big problem to measure the needed specs and make an angled custom rehaut on a lathe with mirror polishing on the inside - by a professional of course

EDIT: Your dial is truly a beauty. Next step would be to beat the case up - oh wait, this is not a vintage rolex haha

 

[majwilliams0308]

Update: The date disc came in. It is for a 2123 movement which is for a 4100 series (35mm). I hoped it would fit, and due to the inexpensive price, I took a gamble.

It is too small:

Therefore, I am going to take a break from this build until I find a cal. 2121 or 2120 date disc. I can try to give it the look of a serviced 5402 with modern font white date disc, but I am not a fan of that if I don't have to.

Side note: if anyone wants to purchase a cheap cal. 2123 AP date disc, there are some inexpensive AP 4100 dials on ebay - feel free to PM me. I can't help sourcing a case and movement though.

 

[MasterWatch]

Update: The date disc came in. It is for a 2123 movement which is for a 4100 series (35mm). I hoped it would fit, and due to the inexpensive price, I took a gamble.

It is too small:

Therefore, I am going to take a break from this build until I find a cal. 2121 or 2120 date disc. I can try to give it the look of a serviced 5402 with modern font white date disc, but I am not a fan of that if I don't have to.

Side note: if anyone wants to purchase a cheap cal. 2123 AP date disc, there are some inexpensive AP 4100 dials on ebay - feel free to PM me. I can't help sourcing a case and movement though.

I have a golden and black font cal. 2121 date wheel. If you need it let me knkw.

 

[majwilliams0308]

So I found a watch part business based in Zurich, and he had two cal. 2121 date discs available (he even had a working cal 2121 but it was too expensive for my tastes). He provided the date disc for $500, which was more expensive than the dial haha. But it's a worthy expense IMO, and the most expensive date disc I've ever purchased. Due to the rarity, I did not negotiate.

Because the JF 15202 is 9.75mm thick, it doesn't really feel thick at all to me - so I'm going to try to live with the thickness for now in the short term in case ZF releases a thinner 15202 case that I can implant the dial and date disc into.

The center pinion size really is too big, but again,

back to the possibility of ZF releasing a good model, I'm only going to re-lume the hands to match the dial.

 

[Garuda]

majwilliams0308 the hole on gen dial could be too small for the miyota hour pinion? dont be tempted to enlarge the hole. you may have to buy the 2121 movement to get this built.

are you using the gen datewheel as a overlay?

 

[majwilliams0308]

majwilliams0308 the hole on gen dial could be too small for the miyota hour pinion? dont be tempted to enlarge the hole. you may have to buy the 2121 movement to get this built.

are you using the gen datewheel as a overlay?

yeah using it as an overlay, and I will only be using this dial on Miyota movements, and never plan on getting a cal. 2121 for this dial. Hopefully I don’t have to drill a bigger hole, but the quartz movement might work too.

 

[majwilliams0308]

So yodog took a look. The dial hole is too small, but even if he made the hole bigger to accommodate, the date disc is too thick. He said that the DW is so thick it probably can’t go into any Miyota movement.

I think I am going to hold onto this dial and dw for a bit, but I cannot stomach buying a gen movement. If anyone wants to buy a gen movement, and wants this dial and VERY rare date disc, feel free to PM me.

Does anyone else have any ideas on a movement that could accommodate a thick dw?

 

[gilrob]

So yodog took a look. The dial hole is too small, but even if he made the hole bigger to accommodate, the date disc is too thick. He said that the DW is so thick it probably can’t go into any Miyota movement.

I think I am going to hold onto this dial and dw for a bit, but I cannot stomach buying a gen movement. If anyone wants to buy a gen movement, and wants this dial and VERY rare date disc, feel free to PM me.

Does anyone else have any ideas on a movement that could accommodate a thick dw?

Consider the A2892, its slightly thinner than the Miyota 9015. Just an idea.

 

[W47chl0v3r]

There is a cal 2121 on sale on chrono24 for about 3.6k. Not sure if that is within budget. https://www.chrono24.com/audemarspi...402--id13204264.htm?SETLANG=en_US&SETCURR=USD

 

[jvevermind]

There is a cal 2121 on sale on chrono24 for about 3.6k. Not sure if that is within budget. https://www.chrono24.com/audemarspi...402--id13204264.htm?SETLANG=en_US&SETCURR=USD

I also have a Cal2121 on sale on ebay for 3000 with much better condition if OP is interested

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[legend]

Consider the A2892, its slightly thinner than the Miyota 9015. Just an idea.

The A2892 datewheel runs in the opposite direction from the Miyota 9015 one.