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Disassembling/Reassembling an AP ROO - Quick tutorial

alvinado

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Guys, this is a repost from WC, by TXcollector, thank him for this amazing post!

After I had my AP ROO Black Themes for about a week I was able to scratch the well finished bezel.


APROOBezel.jpg~original


I tried a couple of different options to fix this (pen from APBands and using 2000 grit paper) but the result was not the same. The only option left was to replace the bezel. Fortunately I was able to secure a new bezel from my dealer and using Archimedes post as a guide I went ahead with the replacement.

I had a few challenges trying to follow the process because a few details were missing and of course I don't have the specialized AP tool to remove the lugs on the bezel screws. The AP ROO has a very intricate construction and I'm impressed with the capacity of the factories to replicate this.

I'm no expert so this is a tutorial written so a beginner can do it. So please forgive me if some of the remarks are common knowledge. I have posted a similar version on another board and I thought it would help some folks here.

Step 1: Remove the caseback.

Easy step just remove all screws.

t1a.jpg~original



and the back with the gasket come right out.


t2a.jpg~original


One thing I noticed is that this gasket probably needs some grease. As we going to see this model is very intricate with a total of 17 different size gaskets. I decided to lubricate all of them just to be safe since the potential for water or moisture to get inside is high with some many points of entry.

Step 2: Remove the internal slugs from the bezel screws

After you remove the caseback you can see there bezel screws go all the way thru the case.

You can notice also the nice engraved rotor. It's amazing the lengths those factories go to make these high end pieces.

t3a.jpg~original



Now here's where the fun begins. You can see in the next picture that these screws are held by some very small lugs inside the case.


t4a.jpg~original



Archimedes was able to share the specialized tool that AP has to remove these. Of course I don't have access to it. However these slugs are nothing a fine point heavy duty tweezers won't fix. Make sure to use heavy duty ones since the points will bend if the tweezers are not strong enough.

t5a.jpg~original



With a some patience and lot of care the lugs can be removed.

t6a.jpg~original



Remove all 8 lugs and keep them in a safe place. They are very small and easy to lose in your carpet. I'm not sure if/where one could get a replacement for those.

t7a.jpg~original


Step 3: Remove the bezel screws

Push the screws from the back and remove one by one. Be careful with the washers.

t8a.jpg~original


If you want your ROO to be water resistant make sure to grease the washers when reassembling the watch.

t9a.jpg~original



Step 4: Remove the crystal

If you are replacing the bezel you will need to transplant the crystal. If you are just refinishing it it would be safer to do so as well.

t10a.jpg~original


If you have a press this will be a lot easier. I don't so thumbs were used. Press from the outside and pop the crystal out. Putting it back in was a lot harder.

Make sure the crystal is flush with the upper surface of the bezel. If the crystal is not mounted correctly you might have problems with leaks.


Step 5: Reassembling the bezel

One thing I noticed is that if you are not careful the washers may get in the way when you try to push the bezel screws back in

t20a.jpg~original


So after greasing all the washers I decided to put them in first carefully with the tweezers.

t15a.jpg~original


Then reassembled the top part of the case.

t19a.jpg~original


Make sure you align the bezel screws in the original circle pattern. I was a little confused on how to position the screws until I saw the picture of the original fully assembled watch.

t21a.jpg~original


t22a.jpg~original


Grease the caseback gasket, replace the back lugs and you are done.

Optional Step: Greasing the crown and chrono pushers gaskets

Since I had the watch open and had done the hardest part of this process (removing the bezel to grease the main gasket underneath the bezel) I decided it would be a good idea to grease all of them.

As I mentioned previously there are 17 gaskets in this watch:
  1. A main one between the bezel and case
  2. A large one on the caseback
  3. 8 small washers on the bezel screws
  4. 3 on the screw in crown
  5. 2 on each chrono pusher
At this point I had work on all but the crown/pushers gaskets. So I decided to go for broke and make sure the crown/pushers gaskets were in order too. I must say that wasn't such a simple task (at least for me).

Number one, you need to remove the crown/stem. This is a modified 7750 so make sure the crown is in the first position (winding) before you push the button to release the stem. Search the forum for specific instructions on how to do this with a 7750. Needless to say I didn't do this and now I can't reinsert the stem. Since this watch is going to Vac for lume and service I'm not too concerned at this point.

After you remove the crown, remove the two small screws securing the movement to the case. Be careful with those, they are very small and have an incredible tendency to jump out of the tweezers into the carpet where they go to die.

Put the movement on the holder and let's work on the pushers.

t11a.jpg~original


t12a.jpg~original


To remove the pushers just unscrew and remove them.

t13a.jpg~original


t16a.jpg~original


t14a.jpg~original


I noticed an interesting detail that I also found on a review by Archimedes at RWG. The bottom pusher is machined. Not just the top of the screw but the surroundings as well. I'm not really sure why but just to be sure I took pictures and made sure to line up the screw exactly as I found it.

t17a.jpg~original


The top pusher came out complete with the spring, washer and gaskets all in place. The bottom one came apart (again seems to be the same with Archimedes' review). It may be related to the construction of this specific one.

t23a.jpg~original


Reassembling the pusher wasn't so easy since the gaskets are very very small and they did have grease coming from the factory. Again the tweezers were very useful.

t18a.jpg~original


Once I had all the gaskets greased it was time to put all back together. Put the screws back in the hole, put the pushers in and screw them. Make sure to align the beveled part of the bottom pusher like it was before. I'm not 100% that's necessary but better safe then sorry.

I hope this tutorial is useful for others. I'll update it when I have more information on how to fix the crown issue.


TIP

One thing that I noticed during this exercise is how easy it is for those tiny little pieces to try and fly away. Fortunately this was my setup.

setupa.jpg~original


In reality this is a low budget lightbox but it was very helpful since when the little washers and screws went flying they bumped on the walls and fell on the felt where they stayed put.

It also provided very good light for work since it was setup for my pictures.

Just thought the tip would be useful
 
Last edited by a moderator:

reeder139

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14/4/09
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Nice tip about the box surrounding the work area. I'm definitely making something similar for myself.

Thanks, I enjoyed reading this.
 

cybee

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Great job. The AP looks like it is very well built.
 

alvinado

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it is well built! I used this tutorial and had more fun stripping the AP apart than any other of my watches:)
 

pcsam

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great thread mate ...... it made me go and look at my roo again just to confirm it has all those parts ...... all i did was open the case back again (i have already creased that part )
ill leave it till i feel a bit better before i strip the watch .............. it would be a good time to get one of takas crystals for it ????
 

txcollector

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4/9/09
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great thread mate ...... it made me go and look at my roo again just to confirm it has all those parts ...... all i did was open the case back again (i have already creased that part )
ill leave it till i feel a bit better before i strip the watch .............. it would be a good time to get one of takas crystals for it ????

I'm not sure why would you want a different crystal for the AP ROO. The sapphire that comes with the rep is correct and the gen has no AR.
 

jy6221

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txcollector - i'm very impressed with your handy work and level of detail. Great post.
 

TheLoveOfBotham

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This is a great post tx, and thanks to alvi for bringing it here.

I commend your patience for not only the task at hand, but the documentation of your endeavours. A truly detailed and informative tutorial.

It also goes to show how advanced some of the reps really are, and I find it quite satisfying, and not a little reassuring, that sometimes the added expense does come with some good quality engineering.

Once again, thanks for posting this.
 

txcollector

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how did it did on the WT ?????

so I think maugomez was referring to water resistance.

Well while the AP ROO case has way too may holes (which should be a problem for water resistance), the engineering is actually quite good.

There are gaskets in all openings with the chrono pushers (usually a weak point) having dual gaskets. The crown is screw in with a rubber gasket. The bezel holds a major rubber gasket that should make the area around it water tight and the crystal not only has the traditional gasket but also the rehaut helps keep it in place.

Over all this is a very well built watch. I would have no problem diving with it but I have better watches for that. :)

txcollector - i'm very impressed with your handy work and level of detail. Great post.

thanks jy
 

Dan_lie

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Just took my ROO apart and rebuilt it with the help of this post, all went smoothly although the inner lugs require ALOT of patience.

It is put together really well, im taken back by the effort put into making this and tbh well worth its price tag!!!

Thanks alot!!!
 

alvinado

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The ap sec at 12 has a great construction, I said it before andwill say it again! Who says china make lousy stuff? :)
 
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J.Prime

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Great info, these look so cool when being disassembled!!
 

Carib

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Great post guys! So informative! Now I understand why they are so expensive :p So extremely well built, and gorgeous in both complete and disassembled forms :)
 

Felixle7

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I have to say thank you... this post give me the power to open a watch my first time. I just opend my new Ap Diver to regulate the movement. I unscrewed all the backscrews. moved the "regulate screw" 3 pieced into the - and lubricate the O ring and the complete caseback with some oilspray. After that i screwed it so hard down as possible. Do you think its still waterproof. I think its even tighter than bevore. Sorry for my bad english but my hart beats even faster than my hands shaking after that xD.

btw. The movement was silver. I ordered the watch with an sw200. i just thought this movement is bronze.

Greets
Felix.