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Disassembling/Reassembling an AP ROO - Quick tutorial

BirkinTourbillon

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25/3/14
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Thanks for sharing the details with us mate, this would definitely be very useful when I'm assembling my AP anytime soon

"Tienes que correr riesgos, en esta vida"
 

rick3d

Horology Curious
16/7/15
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Great tutorial thanks!!!

I have a ROO noob that came in with loose screws. How do far do you tighten the lug screws and that back case?

Thanks!!
 

Physiopete

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5/7/16
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Great info and as you said amazing the lengths the factories go to on these reps
 

texas

You're Saying I Can Sell?
7/5/13
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wow incredible Write up
so do you source your services, im looking for someone to put something together for me
Thanks
 

TheDonSL

Put Some Respect On My Name
28/12/13
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I wish someone would show a step by step to decase the movement on a 44mm with plates. @chris3007 [emoji6]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
D

d4m.test

Guest
Guys, this is a repost from WC, by TXcollector, thank him for this amazing post!

After I had my AP ROO Black Themes for about a week I was able to scratch the well finished bezel.


APROOBezel.jpg~original


I tried a couple of different options to fix this (pen from APBands and using 2000 grit paper) but the result was not the same. The only option left was to replace the bezel. Fortunately I was able to secure a new bezel from my dealer and using Archimedes post as a guide I went ahead with the replacement.

I had a few challenges trying to follow the process because a few details were missing and of course I don't have the specialized AP tool to remove the lugs on the bezel screws. The AP ROO has a very intricate construction and I'm impressed with the capacity of the factories to replicate this.

I'm no expert so this is a tutorial written so a beginner can do it. So please forgive me if some of the remarks are common knowledge. I have posted a similar version on another board and I thought it would help some folks here.

Step 1: Remove the caseback.

Easy step just remove all screws.

t1a.jpg~original



and the back with the gasket come right out.


t2a.jpg~original


One thing I noticed is that this gasket probably needs some grease. As we going to see this model is very intricate with a total of 17 different size gaskets. I decided to lubricate all of them just to be safe since the potential for water or moisture to get inside is high with some many points of entry.

Step 2: Remove the internal slugs from the bezel screws

After you remove the caseback you can see there bezel screws go all the way thru the case.

You can notice also the nice engraved rotor. It's amazing the lengths those factories go to make these high end pieces.

t3a.jpg~original



Now here's where the fun begins. You can see in the next picture that these screws are held by some very small lugs inside the case.


t4a.jpg~original



Archimedes was able to share the specialized tool that AP has to remove these. Of course I don't have access to it. However these slugs are nothing a fine point heavy duty tweezers won't fix. Make sure to use heavy duty ones since the points will bend if the tweezers are not strong enough.

t5a.jpg~original



With a some patience and lot of care the lugs can be removed.

t6a.jpg~original



Remove all 8 lugs and keep them in a safe place. They are very small and easy to lose in your carpet. I'm not sure if/where one could get a replacement for those.

t7a.jpg~original


Step 3: Remove the bezel screws

Push the screws from the back and remove one by one. Be careful with the washers.

t8a.jpg~original


If you want your ROO to be water resistant make sure to grease the washers when reassembling the watch.

t9a.jpg~original



Step 4: Remove the crystal

If you are replacing the bezel you will need to transplant the crystal. If you are just refinishing it it would be safer to do so as well.

t10a.jpg~original


If you have a press this will be a lot easier. I don't so thumbs were used. Press from the outside and pop the crystal out. Putting it back in was a lot harder.

Make sure the crystal is flush with the upper surface of the bezel. If the crystal is not mounted correctly you might have problems with leaks.


Step 5: Reassembling the bezel

One thing I noticed is that if you are not careful the washers may get in the way when you try to push the bezel screws back in

t20a.jpg~original


So after greasing all the washers I decided to put them in first carefully with the tweezers.

t15a.jpg~original


Then reassembled the top part of the case.

t19a.jpg~original


Make sure you align the bezel screws in the original circle pattern. I was a little confused on how to position the screws until I saw the picture of the original fully assembled watch.

t21a.jpg~original


t22a.jpg~original


Grease the caseback gasket, replace the back lugs and you are done.

Optional Step: Greasing the crown and chrono pushers gaskets

Since I had the watch open and had done the hardest part of this process (removing the bezel to grease the main gasket underneath the bezel) I decided it would be a good idea to grease all of them.

As I mentioned previously there are 17 gaskets in this watch:

  1. A main one between the bezel and case
  2. A large one on the caseback
  3. 8 small washers on the bezel screws
  4. 3 on the screw in crown
  5. 2 on each chrono pusher
At this point I had work on all but the crown/pushers gaskets. So I decided to go for broke and make sure the crown/pushers gaskets were in order too. I must say that wasn't such a simple task (at least for me).

Number one, you need to remove the crown/stem. This is a modified 7750 so make sure the crown is in the first position (winding) before you push the button to release the stem. Search the forum for specific instructions on how to do this with a 7750. Needless to say I didn't do this and now I can't reinsert the stem. Since this watch is going to Vac for lume and service I'm not too concerned at this point.

After you remove the crown, remove the two small screws securing the movement to the case. Be careful with those, they are very small and have an incredible tendency to jump out of the tweezers into the carpet where they go to die.

Put the movement on the holder and let's work on the pushers.

t11a.jpg~original


t12a.jpg~original


To remove the pushers just unscrew and remove them.

t13a.jpg~original


t16a.jpg~original


t14a.jpg~original


I noticed an interesting detail that I also found on a review by Archimedes at RWG. The bottom pusher is machined. Not just the top of the screw but the surroundings as well. I'm not really sure why but just to be sure I took pictures and made sure to line up the screw exactly as I found it.

t17a.jpg~original


The top pusher came out complete with the spring, washer and gaskets all in place. The bottom one came apart (again seems to be the same with Archimedes' review). It may be related to the construction of this specific one.

t23a.jpg~original


Reassembling the pusher wasn't so easy since the gaskets are very very small and they did have grease coming from the factory. Again the tweezers were very useful.

t18a.jpg~original


Once I had all the gaskets greased it was time to put all back together. Put the screws back in the hole, put the pushers in and screw them. Make sure to align the beveled part of the bottom pusher like it was before. I'm not 100% that's necessary but better safe then sorry.

I hope this tutorial is useful for others. I'll update it when I have more information on how to fix the crown issue.


TIP

One thing that I noticed during this exercise is how easy it is for those tiny little pieces to try and fly away. Fortunately this was my setup.

setupa.jpg~original


In reality this is a low budget lightbox but it was very helpful since when the little washers and screws went flying they bumped on the walls and fell on the felt where they stayed put.

It also provided very good light for work since it was setup for my pictures.

Just thought the tip would be useful.

Fixed
 

QueTip

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Updated with pics in the first post.
 

kjawor

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This is very helpful, I've been fighting with my safari for over an hour with a simple strap change
 

kjawor

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on a ROO changing strap is practically NEVER a simple task

I hear that. You would imagine that the brand at this level should have streamline and modern strap changing systems. But ROO is pretty damn hard
 
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